(Topic ID: 70408)

System 11 Display Segment Out Help?

By BillPinball

10 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 8 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by msadan
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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    #1 10 years ago

    Greetings All,

    I have a used system 11 display I am trying to fix but this is my first go at display fixing.

    I have one segment out across the top row glass. You can see it in the picture. I know the signal going to the board is good as I have tested it with a good working board.

    IMAG0074.jpgIMAG0074.jpg

    Any recommendations as to what might be the issue? Bad glass? Resistor? Something else I may have forgotten?

    Thank you all.

    #2 10 years ago

    Is there a schematic for this display? I would have a look at the schematic and see what is common to the segment that is out and go from there.

    Sorry, still some what new to this hobby, so not exposed to these specific displays. I could probably help some what if I knew which game this was so I could look for a schematic.

    #3 10 years ago

    Check all the solder joints and make sure none are cracked or broken. Looks like the adhesive on the display supports has given out (common problem.)

    If the solder joints are good, for the top display, the segment out means the 7180 at U15 has gone bad. This is a PITA to change since it is behind the top display, never mind the fact that a replacement is $20:

    http://www.arcadechips.com/product_info.php?products_id=79

    Your bottom display looks like it's either a connector or glass issue. There's no pattern to the missing segments or digits that would be consistent with a component failure.

    This particular display was used in games like Taxi and Police Force because of the connector for the slave display at J4 however, it looks like it is being tested in perhaps a Whirlwind (?)

    viperrwk

    #4 10 years ago

    Thinking about it some more you could have also lost the 6118 at U17 which would account for the loss of the segment in the bottom display. However, given the other issues with that glass I would still say the glass is bad as well. Needing a new glass, 7180 and 6118 makes this board a good parts candidate if you don't need it in another machine. Or if you do, a new LED display would be in order.

    viperrwk

    #5 10 years ago

    I just picked up a Rottendog LED display from Big Daddy for my Rollergames.

    Actually, I'm gonna use it mostly on my bench, I've got a half dozen Sys11 MPUs up for repair, and I've not got my test rig with transformer finished yet, so I need a way to make sure the display works properly on the bench.. seems easier with a LED display only needing the +5.

    When I finish the rig, I'll probably put the LED in Rollergames, and use the RG display (not original to the game, one of the glasses is mounted a little crooked) in the test rig, so I can test the HV on power supplies, too.

    #6 10 years ago

    Thanks so much for all the help. The goal is to test the top glass as i need to put it into another machine with bad glass. The plan is to desolder the top glass and resolder it into the other machines display board.

    Is it safe to assume the top glass itself is a good candidate for a transplant?

    #7 10 years ago

    Your top glass is probably fine and the only thing wrong is the 7180. The segment out all along the top is the clue. If you were planning on putting it on another working board where the glass is out I would do it - as long as the 7180s and 6118s on that board are ok. If you pull the glass it's easy to check them while they are still on the board.

    The advantage to this display is that it is set up to support the slave display. I don't remember if the non-slave driving ones have U3 and U4 populated. But if I was choosing between a working -1 or -2 board I'd prefer the -2.

    viperrwk

    6 years later
    #8 4 years ago

    Just worked on a Rollergames that had a segment out on all of the digits of the lower display. It was caused by a bad PIA at U51. Bad ribbon cable / ribbon cable connectors, bad connector or header at J5 on the display or J3 on the MPU could also cause this. Rare but it happens.

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