Wasilla, AK
I'm in with 3 and working on number 4. First pin was Cyclone. Added a Diner and Pool Sharks.
(Topic ID: 43458)
Linked Games
Bad Cats
Williams, 1989-
Banzai Run
Williams, 1988
-
Big Guns
Williams, 1987
-
Black Knight 2000
Williams, 1989
-
Bugs Bunny's Birthday Ball
Bally, 1990
-
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
-
Diner
Williams, 1990
-
Dr. Dude
Bally, 1990
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider tomass.
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2 months later
Anyone know if I can test the special solenoids section of a High Speed (11) in a Cyclone (11b)? I am helping someone fix 2 locked on jets and a sling on their high speed. I want to test this part, after replacing components, before bringing the board back.
Can anyone tell me if these will work for my ac relay on the aux power board? I already put a socket where the relay was.
2 weeks later
Can anyone post a pic of a Diner aux power driver board? Or confirm that indeed the jumpers at w1, w3, w4 and w6 are in as the manual shows and no other jumpers are there? Having a problem and completely disgusted at this point. Had to walk away for a while.
Quoted from pacmanretro:Is that a solder short I see by the first couple nasty pins on the left?
It wasn't originally but started to arc after chasing other problems. First it was arcing from one pin to the key pin and it melted the key right out.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Pins 7,8,9 and 10 are GI pins and still look fine. Pin 1 and pin 2 are 28 volt and 50 volt from the AC relay. Now the big question is what is connected to this on the insert board.
What exactly am I looking for?
1536029009842800019744 (resized).jpg 1 week later
Quoted from Inkochnito:Anything specific you need to know?
Pinsider GRUMPY is helping me work through some problems and he suggests making sure all the jumpers are correct. My board is from another game and although they match the manual he suggests this may be an issue. So if you can confirm the posistion of the jumpers I can go with that. Thanks for the reply.
Quoted from Inkochnito:Here you go....
If you need the original higher resolution, just let me know.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
[quoted image]
Thank you Peter! Exactly what I needed. You are an asset to the hobby.
2 weeks later
Looking for some advice. I cleaned up this board as best as I could after removing all the corroded components. All the traces look good and meter out fine but the pads and some traces are darker than their surroundings. Is this something that is going to continue to degrade? Is there something I should do other than sucking the solder and replacing components / sockets?
20181002_150510 (resized).jpgQuoted from PinballManiac40:The dark traces/pads is the alkaline under the green solder mask attacking the copper traces. If you try and apply any heat to the top side of the board, it will eat up those traces/pads. As Terry's guide mentions, sanding the traces to the bare copper is next and then treat it with vinegar and follow with cleaning with alcohol. Then you will be safe to be able to solder on the top side of the board.
They seem to have cleaned up real nice. I am not sure that this needs to be sanded.
20181003_054711 (resized).jpgQuoted from GRUMPY:Here is a couple spots that still need some sanding and cleaning, there maybe a few more.
[quoted image]
Gotcha. The lower right of that pic had a spot that looked the same. Lost a couple traces sanding but I'm glad I found it now. I can't imagine that it would have lasted very long if they came up so easy. Thanks!
Quoted from PinballManiac40:Well, you can make an offer to them once you get a reply if it sounds out of reach for you. No harm. You don't have to take the first one that comes along.
What is wrong with your coin door you have now?
I picked up this Pinbot for $300 and it had a piece of plexi for a door and battery damage. The lady had it since she was a kid. Said an operator sold them with no door to prevent competition. Other than that it was in excellent shape.
Has anyone used a 2n5550 in place of a 2n3904? I have a large bag of 2n5550's and 2n4403's but pinbot 11a board is calling for 2n3904's
Another spot is calling for 2n6427's so I trying to figure out if one of those will work in there. I have very limited knowledge of transistors. Any help is appteciated.
Ok, I see why I ended up with 2n5550's and not 2n3904's. The 11c board has the 2n5550 transistor on q42-q49 but the 11a has the 2n3904 transistor in that same spot. Seems like it is the same but higher rated voltage, but that is only from reading other posts. I would think it will work since it is in the 11c board and perhaps even an upgrade? Am I wrong?
Thanks for any input
1 week later
So I got myself stuck again. Was trying to get the last 2 coils to fire on my cyclone and now it won't boot. Replaced u28 and got the coil 8, which was just a flasher, to work. Was probing to see why the knocker (7) wasn't firing and I must have jumped something trying to probe the transistor. I get a solid red on the left led and that is it. Sometimes it will start to flash like it is booting with "factory settings" but then goes blank. I read a little on the blanking circuit, but can anyone help me diagnose where to start?
Please and thanks to anyone willing to help.
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Strangely enough it is now booting after a rest. I guess power supply? Anyway now I am trying to get the knocker to work. I get a pulse at q30 but the middle leg is no signal pulsing low but I think it should be high pulsing low?
Any techs with somr advice? I swapped u 19 to be sure it wasn't that. The input to u19 sol7 is low pulsing high like the other solenoids and the one pin is solid high. The output for sol7 low pulsing to no tone. In attrack the output is solid low like the input and the other pin is high like it should be. The transistor and predriver seem to test fine with a dmm. Not sure where to go next.
Quoted from GRUMPY:That would indicate that there is no power on the coil, coil winding has a break in it or a break in the wire from the coil to the Cpu 1J-11 pin 8.
Hmmm. The flasher does not work on the other side of 7. Does that make it a problem on the aux board?
Quoted from GRUMPY:It might be R-3 on the aux board, or a cracked header pin on 5J1 pin 2.
Gotcha! Thanks.
2 months later
6 months later
Quoted from mystman12:Quick question, is it safe to power the game on while IJ22 (The display data cable) is unplugged? I want to use a logic probe to test the points on the connector if it's safe to do so.
Yes
5 months later
Quoted from Pin-Pilot:Pool Sharks - Fun pin. I have one and you do not see a lot of them any more.
I love my pool sharks! I stick to 9 ball and leave 8 ball for the family. Then they have their own high score sets that I don't wipe out.
5 months later
Quoted from schwism:The top drop target on my Whirlwind is not registering. When I run the switch test it generally does not respond but if I move the connector to the opto board around I can get a response some time. I’m guessing the plug (shown) is the culprit.
The plug looks like it is jury rigged together. I’d like to replace it but have 2 questions.
1) How do I figure out the part number to order and who stocks them?
2) what tool do I need do get the wires connected to the plug?
[quoted image]
1 month later
Quoted from truemagoo102:I have a Fire! with an "acid washed" mpu board- I have been convinced by a friend to look for an original board and not a rottendog. I'm also up for a challenge and have been learning board repair this summer - anyone have a spare System 11/A/B board in any condition that would be willing to sell me? I'd give you a fair price and am not looking for a hand out. Really any condition as long as the acid hasn't spread through the entire bottom half of the board like mine. Shoot me a PM - thanks in advance!
Post a pic of your board. My Pinbot board was really bad, but fixed up nicely and still working.
Quoted from truemagoo102:There's more acid than not on the entire board. Almost covered everything.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
I think mine was actually worse than this. Could be a good learning experience and give lots of practice working on boards. I may be in the minority, but I would be fixing this board if was mine. If you are going to pitch it, send me a pm and I might buy it for a fair price. I have many sys 11s and always looking to have backup boards.
If you want to try to fix it, start a thread and get some advice. Read through some of the repair tutorial threads here on pinside.
Quoted from truemagoo102:I've been convinced, I'll give it a shot.
Nice! Worst that can happen is you get some practice. I think I followed Terry's guide. Corrosion was hiding under some of the header pins along the bottom that looked completely fine. If you start a thread, post the link. I will follow along.
Good luck!
1 month later
7 months later
Quoted from mystman12:The center drop on the right bank on my Big Guns is acting up, and after trying a couple repairs I'm not really sure where to go from here.
Sometimes it will go a little while and work just fine, but usually it just doesn't register hits. When it does decide to work for a little bit, it's usually for a few games after I first turn on the machine, but that isn't always the case.
I tried cleaning the opto and reflowing the solder on it, but neither of those things seem to have made any difference. Once I put everything back together it worked for a couple games, but then stopped again.
At this point I'm not really sure what else to look at. I know the connectors can sometimes cause intermittent problems with System 11 drops but I'm not sure how to test that. So, anything I should look at/test to try and diagnose the issue further?
Does it work in test mode?
2 months later
Quoted from Beechwood:Help.
EatPM, switch to register first ball in the skull lock doesn't register. Reseated wires, replaced switch, checked boards and found nothing.
Any idea's? I am stumped
Check continuity if each wire back to the mpu and make sure the path is connected.
1 year later
Quoted from Aeolus7:Taxi purgatory!
Game currently boots to:
* A single startup ding
* sizzling transformer
* No life to the displays
* No coils at boot
* GI appears ok
I immediately shut the game off and unplugged the transformer to cabinet/playfield connections. The transformer seems to settle back down. I check the fuse values and there are lots of substitutions vs the manual (1/2A instead of 3/8A, 6a instead of 7a, etc).
This game was a project in pieces when I tore into it, so I wasn't able to do any testing beforehand (not best practice, I know). The game had several oddities/hacks. One that stands out is some speaker wire on one of the flippers connected to weird black box. I rewired that, but not sure if it was a bandaid for something or what. I double checked the harness connections, everything looks correct, though I had to rebuild 2 scorched connectors that had already been rebuilt once (1 to the MPU & 1 to the interconnect, male & female). I'll check my work again on those tonight, and will run back through the coil connections on the playfield.
I'm planning on replacing the fuses with the correct values, unplugging the power to the MPU, and checking voltages on the PSU & Aux PSU before I plug the MPU back in. Am I on the right track?
Taxi might be one of the games where the bridges are not fused. I would make sure they are fused if they are not already. If you don't know what I mean, I can post a pic.
Quoted from Aeolus7:As a follow up note, Taxi is 11b. Would the fuse mod still apply? Pulled this image off the web to show what my backbox looks like. I believe there are 2 on the aux board, 1 off the boards, and 1 on the PSU board. The PSU rectifier appears to have been replaced at one point, and one of the contacts on the off board rectifier looks toasted. Wonder if I should also suspect 1 or more of the rectifiers are bad as well?
[quoted image]
Ok, sorry. I believe anything with that aux board are fused. Not sure when they corrected the issue but it was during one of the sys11 games.
1 month later
Quoted from Budman:I have owned WW and Taxi and now have a chance at Pinbot or Diner. In my limited playing experience, Diner wins on flow and gameplay, Pinbot on theme/ sound. For you all who own both, how do they rank for you?
Exactly like you stated. Diner is the better player, shooting and rules wise, but Pinbot has a great soundtrack.
3 weeks later
Quoted from marcandluv:3 questions from a new noob. Whirlwind
1. Can a defective coil blow the F7 on the aux power driver board.
2. When rebuilding the flipper assembly can a 12 guage wire be used to connect the EOS to the coil.
3. When checking the bigger odd numbered diodes in the cabinet they read as though they are bad. Outside the cabinet they read good. Is that normal. Thanks for your help.
As far as 1) I would guess it is something other than a coil. Blown transistor or chip would be my guess.
1 month later
Quoted from jcar302:If you are choosing a color, i'd say the wolfpac is the best choice.
If i'm remembering correctly, he told me that if i didn't like the green i chose (for milionaire), he could sell me the parts to change it to a different color.
I'm pretty good at soldering and it took me just over a couple hours to do the entire board.
They are a good way to save some money if it's a low budget machine or you think you are into a project too much.
Yep. I have done several of the Wolfpack displays and have no complaints.
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