(Topic ID: 43458)

System 11 Club !

By mof

7 years ago

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  • 3,218 posts
  • 645 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by JT-Pinball
  • Topic is favorited by 297 Pinsiders


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#2903 1 year ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

I have an F14 that reset a bunch of times last night. Especially when I activated both flippers at once. It did it everytime. I turned game off and back on and seemed to be okay for a bit. Turned it on and off again and it would reset. Turned on and off a third time after checking all the diodes and worked fine. Getting "-error-" message in AU menu which I read was an indication of a bad diode causing resets. Do I just shotgun all the diodes?

the Error message in audits means that that audit has failed its checksum the only connection to a bad diode would be if the diode was causing a reset at the precise moment the audit was updating. Start by replacing the diodes on your flipper coils, to test them you have to lift one side, so might as well just replace them. You might have other issues though, with the power supply chain. Might want to start a separate thread to get more indepth with the sys11 gurus here

1 month later
#2995 1 year ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

Well, in going through my box of random parts, I found the original cam for the Mousin' Around!
However, it seems that I have the wrong lock installed in the backbox. The lock seems to expect a cam with a much smaller (and almost oval shaped) hole, not the larger square hole that the correct cam has.
The picture here shows the cam that fits the current lock (but doesn't work with the backglass) on top, and below shows the cam that is supposed to be used.
So, now the question becomes how do I buy a replacement lock and know that it will fit with the cam shown below?[quoted image]


Most cam locks you buy have the correct sized square cutout, unless they are tubular key locks they usually have the smaller type. The ones that PBR sells are usually the 1382 key with the correct cam as well.

1 month later
#3064 10 months ago

There's a plastic part that latches the fault, it might be worn and need to be replaced. I think the same or similar one is used on the fireplug in fire as well.

#3066 10 months ago

Nice how it's not really shown in the manual!

2 months later
#3104 8 months ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Any way to test these?

Pull them out read them in on an eprom burner and compare to files downloaded from ipdb/pps.

3 weeks later
#3135 7 months ago
Quoted from schwism:

Thanks. This is good information for other connectors but not this one. This connector has the wire perpendicular to the plug and pushed in. I believe there is a sharp point that goes into the wire to make the connection.

That's an IDC type connector, used by manufacturers for speed of installation (not longevity). Most people replace them with the crimp in type. (Me included).

If they aren't disturbed they're usually ok for a years, but once its time to replace them, they get the crimp type.

#3138 7 months ago


5 pin .100 connector housing:


.062 connectors aren't used when mated to boards. (0.093 occasionally are, but 62/93 connectors are usually on wires inline to each other.)

Compare the connector you're replacing to the larger ones in the head on the boards to get the size. If it's the same as that you need .156 stuff also available at GPE and the same crimper will work. If it's .100 as you suspect, it will be smaller than those larger sizes. It's not clear from the manual and I don't recall what WW has as I sold mine several years ago.

3 months later
#3195 4 months ago

Looks like old stock, probably fine if bought from reputable supplier

1 month later
#3211 78 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Just thought I’d ask this here: does anyone else replace Tnuts w just a nut and washer under Pf?
I’m restoring a diner and have multiple cracked screws posts. I heat the tnut before unscrewing, but some crack off (the posts).
Any reason to NOT just reattach the new post w a nut under pf?

Sure, if the replacement post is long enough to take the washer and a nylock nut.

The only reason to not do this would be if it's a post that you might need to remove with some regularity, although I can't imagine what that would be.

The posts crack because the factory used the wrong loctite on them, once you replace the tnut you probably wont have this issue.

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