The lamp matrix went out on my Earthshaker. I don’t think I did anything to cause it. The last thing I did before I noticed it was out was to work on a rollover switch with the machine off.

So far I’ve verified all fuses are good. I ran the test suggested on Pinwiki-unplugged the 1J6 and 1J7, put diagnostics in all lamp mode and jumpered pins to a bulb. Nothing lights.

Other than lights being our machine plays normally. GI works and all other features are fine.

Any ideas on what to check next?

Thanks Grumpy. Bear with me. I’m a rookie on SS. Which board am I checking? I do know what a bridge rectifier looks like so that’s a start.

Thanks! Now I know where to look and will check it out tomorrow. If I read correctly I need to do diode tests across each pair of leads. Is that right?

Grumpy, I ran through the tests. 0.13VDC and zero VDC. I rechecked the fuse (which I am sure tested okay a couple of days ago) and it was bad. Replaced it—problem solved.

Thanks for all your help. I learned a lot in going through the process which will come in handy when (not if) some other issue comes up.

I’m replacing a diode on a microswitch. Currently it has a 1n4001. Is there any benefit to using a 1n4004 or 1n4007 or should I stay with the original?

Thanks, Grumpy. I’ll go with 1n4007.

Another Earthshaker question.

When ball lock one is activated a shot up the right ramp puts the ball in the VUK hole. I think the fault should open and stay open until the VUK shoots the ball up so it can go down the fault line. On mine the fault usually opens and closes 3-4 times and may or may not stay open.

See the photo. Could the microswitch and/or diode be the issue?

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Yes, it is 03-8090. I’ve seen pictures of it but I’m not seeing anything that looks like it on mine. Would anyone have a picture of their fault unit?

They refer to it but it is on the underneath side. It would have been helpful to point to it on the bottom view along with the other parts as opposed to the vague reference on the front view. I’ll have to detach the unit to check the status.

I found it. I checked it out and noticed a few things. The spring is connected at both ends but hangs pretty loose. I’m not sure if there’s any tension at all.

I’m also doubtful there’s enough tension in the spring that holds the plastic in place. It moves freely so I think the plastic doesn’t catch as it should. I’m going to try to stretch that spring and see if that helps keep it in place.

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The top drop target on my Whirlwind is not registering. When I run the switch test it generally does not respond but if I move the connector to the opto board around I can get a response some time. I’m guessing the plug (shown) is the culprit.

The plug looks like it is jury rigged together. I’d like to replace it but have 2 questions.
1) How do I figure out the part number to order and who stocks them?
2) what tool do I need do get the wires connected to the plug?

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Thanks. This is good information for other connectors but not this one. This connector has the wire perpendicular to the plug and pushed in. I believe there is a sharp point that goes into the wire to make the connection.

Got it. I’m thinking I have one of two problems. I’m starting with the plug. Once I figure out what Part # it is so I can order it I plan to replace the pictured plug.

If that doesn’t fix it the problem would seem to be the J1 not making contact with the board. At that point I’d pop for a new board.

Grumpy, you’re the best! That’s exactly what I needed to know. I’ll be ordering this morning.

Grumpy, it’s never easy. I realized the connector needs to be 100, not 156. I found this:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=5792-12116-05

This should work. There are two punch tools listed.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-IDC-A100
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-IDC

Which is correct? Or will either work?

Thanks. I’m new to this and still learning. If I go this route and the male end is 100 would this work for the connector?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5791-09838-00

I’m not sure whether 062 is correct. If so I’d need this, female round crimp terminals and a crimping tool.

Thanks. I did make sure this is a .100 so I should be good to go.

I rebuilt the connector with molex. I’m getting power to the opto board and have checked board connections from the pins. Ordered a new opto board (may just be the opto but figured I’d go whole hog). Hopefully that will take care of it.

I’m looking for advice on next steps on Earthshaker

I rebuilt all three flippers but I blew it on two of them. I installed the coils for the right and upper left backwards so when I resoldered I got the wires wrong.

When I started it up the right flipper moved a little and dropped back down. Left flippers did nothing. Both fuses blew.

I’ve replaced fuses and the right flipper coil (I’ve ordered the upper left coil). With the upper flipper disconnected the lower one works fine and I’m guessing the upper will be okay too when properly wired. The right flipper does nothing (no voltage gets to it). Checked continuity from the back box. Fuse tests okay.

What should I check next?

How can I check. Will it look toasty?

Thanks Grumpy. I read through that and see a lot of good info. I’ll get going on figuring this out.

Checked resistance as suggested. Looks good. Also looked at voltage to coil. Working flipper got about 77V, non working right 0. Upper left starts at 23V and declines. Will check diodes on aux power today and will pull board so I can check the back.

I’m not seeing any bad traces. Checked diodes. Most tested normal but D3-7 and 15,16,22 show about 1600 instead of OL. D23 indicates 675/482.

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Update on this. BR2 was showing 1600 readings instead of OL so I replaced it. New one show the same readings and the old one tests normal off the board. Transistors all test okay. Is this a diode issue or something else?

Yes, I did that yesterday. Issue was easy to find and fix (the other three wires were put in before I bought the machine). All is well now.

I learned a lot from the process and fortunately the fix was easy and inexpensive.

Thanks Grumpy for pointing me in the right direction.

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