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Quoted from freddy:Swirl remover (ebony)
Is that a product name? I tried meguiars ScratchX but it did nothing.
I really suck at buffing/polishing. Wish someone would make a guide. Not much info out there.
Quoted from rotordave:Novus is actually a plastic polish.
You could try some 3 then some 2.
rd
I tried that too. Maybe I need to be more aggressive, I’ll give it another try today. I’m just doing it my hand, maybe I need to buy a buffer but I don’t want to burn it.
Quoted from freddy:Auto paint supply near you tell them your looking to remove swirls !
That's a great idea, thanks.
I tried Novus 3 again and that added scratches, then Novus 2 brought it back to how it was before. So the scratches seem finer than Novus 2 can remove.
Went to the auto paint store. The lady there seemed like she was guessing at what I should do. She was trying to sell me this 3M 39062 polish for $30 and said to use with a DA and blue foam pad. I didn’t trust her so I passed.
Let me know what you find out please Kerry_Richard
Quoted from GRUMPY:This would have worked well.
Oh ok I’ll go pick some up then. She lost me when she said they use this to polish their DVDs.
I picked up a 8" 3M blue pad (05733) and 3M ultrafine polish (39062). A guy at the shop today knew a bit more and explained there are different steps to the 3M polish line. The blue is a polishing compound (the last step) so its more gentle than the other steps. The first steps are rubbing compounds and are more abrasive and will heat faster and remove more material. The product colors are a hint, so blue polish with blue pad, etc. He said since my DA is not random orbital I need to keep it moving to reduce chances of burning.
Hoping to learn more about all of this. I'd like to try the 3M rubbing compounds on my next playfield clearcoat job. I'm putting a hardtop on my F-14, so I will shoot a couple coats of clear on the sanded playfield so I can test on that without any risk of damaging art.
Did some polishing. It definitely looks better but did not remove the fine scratches. I’m not sure if the problem is my sanding or my polishing.
2BEDF638-919F-4D89-AA8B-2ED645AB419D.jpegE7E2FBD6-00CB-4420-92D4-B5150F94312C.jpeg
Here you can see the fine scratches only in the light angle.
39F64922-9D52-4908-817D-0F73448C9922.jpeg185DD330-C24E-405E-880C-BBBD6EC039DE.jpeg
I only had sanded all the grits, maybe I need to machine sand? I do not have ultra fine grits for my orbital.
Quoted from freddy:What was the final grit # you sanded with?
3000. I think my hand sanding is too shitty. Just got paper for my DA orbital to try tonight.
Quoted from freddy:Try wet sanding and change paper as needed build up on paper will scratch!
Good tip!
I sanded with the DA. Came out better but I have machine swirl that isn’t polishing out. Maybe I’m not spending enough time on each grit. Seems like I’m having a hard time with this.
Quoted from DaveTheTrain:I suppose it might be under IC's? But damn removing them is beyond my skillset. unless I'm replacing them so I can cut them off.
Yep and it even travels through the wiring harness. I would pull the board, unsolder physical parts like test switches and relays, clean board thoroughly with an acidic cleaner and a tooth brush, hose it down in the shower, rinse with alcohol (to displace water so it dries faster), blow dry with air compressor.
I’m certainly not an expert, but this has worked for all my sys9-11 games. Had F14 since 2011 and never had another problem with it after cleaning this way.
If the board is still bad after this, personally these days I would just replace it and sell the original as “for repair”.
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:Please do tell
This got out of hand and I spent almost an hour on it, haha
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/restoring-speaker-panels-the-hard-way
Quoted from rotordave:Just finished the Taxi restore.
This machine was one that had been stored for years, it had water damage to the front and bottom of the cabinet.
- new ply bottom, routed to take under cab LEDs
- cabinet fully stripped to wood and refinished in yellow 2K
- new cabinet decals
- playfield fully stripped, repaired, refinished with lots of 2k and buffed
- new ramps
- all metalwork hand polished
- etc etc etc
Lots of work but came out pretty good.
rd[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Looks great. Is this the one you used spraymax on?
Quoted from Elicash:Guys, anyone restore a system 11 apron? I am finding ver little about this on Pinside. Specifically, I am hoping to redo my whirlwind apron but I’m reluctant to use the decals that are for sale on eBay, etc. I am afraid that it will look cheap or cheesy.
Anyone screen or paint this? Or is the decal the only real option?
Anyone paint or powder coat? What paint did you use?
Did anyone use a decal but clearcoat over it so it looks more natural?
Same as any other metal apron restore. Probably the most info out there will be for WPC.
There’s lots of options depending on how bad your apron is and how crazy you want to go on the restore. You can take it to a powder coat place and pay them to sand blast it for you. From there you could powder coat out or prime and paint and clear. New art can be decals or stencils/airbrush. If you clear a decal start with a few really light mist coats before you flood it. If the decal is cheap buy two and learn on a piece of scrap so you don’t melt it on your newly painted apron.
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