I currently have
Diner (sample game)
Diner (production game)
Bad Cats
Earthshaker

had in the past
Dr. Dude (sold 2012 on CL)
Dr. Dude (sold at the TPF 2013)
Bad Cats (went to my brother)
Bad Cats (sold to the Pinball museum in Hockley, TX)

If I could get some room, would like to get
Black Knight 2000
Taxi

19 months later, I had sold my duplicate games. System 11 is the fun era. No ball save here!!!

Now only have.
Earthshaker
Diner (being restored)
Bad Cats (waiting on that CPR playfield)
Black Knight 2000 (getting shopped out--need a backglass, please help!)

I installed the 6264 NVRAM from www.pinitech.com. Cutout or desoldering the old RAM is required on these boards and then you.need to add an IC socket to install it in. Works great with all system 11 B and 11C games. The other alternative would be to use lithium AAA batteries. Just make sure you don't buy the rechargeables. Lithium batteries will last at least 5 years and will not leak

Good news for the Jokerz owners. New plastic sets are now available.
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PPS-31-1006-567&Store_Code=PP

Silvercoin, Did the issue start with the flashers after doing any repairs?

You will need to look to see if you have a burnt J6 (far right) connector on the interconnect board for your right side GI being out.

Traded my Freddy for a Taxi project on Tuesday that included everything I need..CPR playfield and backglass, new blue Spin out ramp, both new ramps, plastic set, and topper.
This now makes 5 System 11 games I have.
Earthshaker and BK2K...work. Now I have 3 projects to get working on....Bad Cats, Diner and now Taxi.taxi_1.png

taxi_2_(resized).png

No pictures?

Can you post a picture of your MPU board just above and below the battery pack?

If you do not have any damage, try reseating the ribbon cable on the display and to where it plugs in at the MPU board.

Glad to see there is not any battery acid damage. I see you posted a new System 11 Display issue thread. I would definitely follow ChrisHibler's instructions. Reseating the ribbon cable at the MPU and at the display did not do any good?

Wow. That interconnect board looks toasted. You have a long red wire running from J6 to a fuse, just above J7 that "fixes" a heavily burnt trace. I would suggest buying another board since J6 will be difficult to repair without adding wires and still be reliable. If you choose to repair it, I would shorten the length of the wire and run it on the backside of the board. Though, you likely have internal board problems which is why it burnt so badly.

So you can look for a replacement D-12313-xxxx board, where xxxx is the configuration of the resistors/jumpers on the 'W' locations. I see one on Ebay for $50 that was in very nice condition recently. At one time, Marco had new replacement boards, but I think they were about $120, but at least they came already configured for what ever game you needed it for.

Here is one on Ebay that burnt and wires were ran to fix the damaged traces. It may not be much better than yours once you remove it and see the back side of the board.
ebay.com link: Williams System 11 Interconnect board D 12313 574 5768 12332 00

What game is this from?

How does your J6 (far right connector) on your interconnect board? Is it burnt?

Then it seems the one at the transformer is all you need to repair. Rarely, I see that one as the issue, but it does happen.

Pretty tough. Since you stated J6 looks good, don't touch it.

Awesome. You found the issue at the transformer yourself. Let's see that playfield and backbox lit up. Pictures!!! This thread needs more pictures!!

http://webpages.charter.net/coinopcauldron/brepairs.html

I hear that. After having TZ for only 10 months, I decided to buy my 2nd pin. At which time when the 2nd was delivered via NAVL, I then had 3 total. That was a mere 8 years ago when I bought TZ. I now have a small collection of 37. I am trying to downsize. Seriously, I am trying!!

Not too awesome when 17 are projects though that need to be worked on. Projects can multiply fast too.

I would start with checking all the voltages in the game. Can you post a picture of the MPU board, which I hope does not have any battery corrosion.

We would learn a lot just from these 2 items. Measuring the voltages and knowing they are in spec or not, keeps you from having to swap. In order to repair the board, still would need to know what voltage is causing the problem so the least amount of parts get replaced fixing the issue.

Depending on if, where, and how much battery corrosion there is, will depend on whether you want to tackle this potential amount of huge repair work, send it out for repair or replace the board.

This was directed toward some of your questions.

Have you even seen a picture of the MPU board to know if it is even battery corrosion free?

Once you get the game, it will be best for you to start a new thread.
We are here to help, so might as well get your DMM handy and buy a logic probe if you don't have one now.

Since when is DM a System 11 game?

And you need to measure 5v and 12v on the power supply, which could be low. I suggest replacing all the capacitors on the power supply as they tend to leak and cause resets and other issues depending on which one fails.

Congrats. Just start a new repair thread and Pinside shall help.

Best thing is to upgrade to NVRAM to get rid of batteries and then change all the capacitors on the power supply as a start.

Here is a general guide.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11

Ones I had seen on there lately have a lot of battery leakage/corrosion that need to be dealt with. White residue on the board is a good indication of this.

Cab you post a picture of your MPU board? I have a MPU board I am working on that has a lot of switch errors and it is because it has a ton of battery corrosion (white chalky residue) that needs to be dealt with.

That is awesome. I would cut off the battery holder to keep anyone from installing batteries since the board has NVRAM installed.

No background music and no switch sounds either? Can you post a picture of your MPU? Any battery alkaline damage?

Try reseating the small ribbon cable at the MPU and at the sound board to see if it makes a difference. Also check for a loose connection at all the speakers. I hope he already knows where the volume control is in the cabinet, which I would crank on it both directions with power off a few times to see if that helps.

Try the original IC sockets first. If the game boots up with them, then they are good.

The dark traces/pads is the alkaline under the green solder mask attacking the copper traces. If you try and apply any heat to the top side of the board, it will eat up those traces/pads. As Terry's guide mentions, sanding the traces to the bare copper is next and then treat it with vinegar and follow with cleaning with alcohol. Then you will be safe to be able to solder on the top side of the board.

Yes, that looks good.

Coating the traces would be ideal with finger nail polish or actual conformal board coating up to the pads so that it would seal it and help protect from accidental shorts or damage to the traces if you were to slip while troubleshooting in the future with a meter or logic probe while power is on.

Order a new C30 as well. Life expectancy is very near its end and can cause random boot failures.

I don't think you have to put a price on a WTB ad.

Well, the square pins would make much better contact because there will be more surface area to connect to. I would wait for the new ones.

Well, you can make an offer to them once you get a reply if it sounds out of reach for you. No harm. You don't have to take the first one that comes along.

What is wrong with your coin door you have now?

I'll have to say no. They have different characteristics and not compatible.

Likely it had damaged U41 and/or U42 and/or any of the yellow SRC parts above the battery pack holder.

As is value is tough to put on it, especially without a picture. Some boards are more damaged than others. I like having spare boards so I suggest asking ChrisHibler for a repair estimate. I repair my own, even as time consuming as it is sometimes but it worth having an original board.

No reason not to, but the smaller capacitors are more prone to leak sooner. Here is what Great Plains Electronics suggests for 11B and 11C power supplies. It is never a problem upping the voltage rating on a new capacitor.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W12246-PEC-KIT

Describe what the 3 red LEDs on the MPU are doing.

Did you replace the capacitors on the power supply?
Can you measure the voltages on the power supply?

Can you post a picture of the power supply and the MPU?

I think it is because of the speaker panel being the same as EATPM.

Battery corrosion is my first guess. Can you post a picture of the MPU board?

As kermit24 mentioned, I hope you just have a 5v problem.

MPU board looks great. Though, I would go NVRAM as I had done with my whole collection, where possible.

I'm not a fan of the Rottendog PS, but I believe they have a lifetime warranty. Though, if you just bought it from a resale shop, there should be a warranty through them.

What is wrong with the original Williams power supply?

Desoldering of the old RAM and soldering of the new IC socket for the NVRAM would be needed. 6116 NVRAM will be fairly easy to install if you have the soldering skills

The original power supply creates the 5v from the 12v. I believe the Rottendog power board does as well. I would like to see a picture of the board to see if something burned. I cannot get to the schematic, so you may have to email Rottendog for help.

@billsfanmd, If 12v and -12v test good, looks like I would change U3 - MC34167

Either from https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MC34167TVG?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqO%252bWUGLBzeHjEr4HqwwtH

or
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=MC34167TVG&sprice=&stype=&scat=

Are C1 and C3 are puffed up? If so, I would replace the 100uf with high voltage ones. This is for the 100 and -100v for the display.

Thank you for the link.

+12v turns into +5v via the (U3) MC34167 part. The Rottendog board is easily damaged so have to take some care removing it out of the board.

No +5v = no boot

I prefer an original power supply over a Rottendog one.

Correct. A power supply will convert/supply/generate the voltages needed to other parts of the game.

You can send it out for repair. If you do, I suggest having NVRAM installed on the MPU to get rid of the batteries.

Can you post a picture of what yours is doing?

Well, there would not be any acid damage. If alkaline batteries did leak and spray fumes on the display board, it really is alkali that would have done the damage.

If there is a brown residue that is only on the solder pins of the glass display at the board, that would be solder flux. It is pretty common to see that on display assemblies where someone changed it out and did not bother cleaning it.

Garbage on a display can even be from a ribbon cable, so try and reseat both ends of the ribbon cable. If that does not help, you can even have the MPU at fault, especially if U41 has battery alkali damage.

You can swap the MPU, between the Fire, but you need to swap the 2 game ROMs with it because the displays are different between the 2 games. You can do that just as a test. The 11B Fire MPU is fully compatible in Diner. The 11C Diner MPU will function except for speech if you put it in Fire because it lacks the speech section that is needed in Fire.

Did you have any luck finding a MPU for Fire? I will check tomorrow, but I doubt that I have a spare Diner display board without the glass displays. If the corrosion did not go through to the other side, you can sand the traces and resolder any parts that had the corrosion. Worth a shot trying to save it. I had installed a red Rottendog LED in my Black Knight and it looks pretty good.

Maybe create a want to trade ad for a working 11B for one of you DE MPU boards?

11B is a bit easier to locate than 11A. Your Diner has a 11C MPU? On 2 occasions , I ran into a Diner and a Pool Sharks, originally shipped with 11C boards, actually have 11B board installed. It works, but overkill in those 2 games.

Post a link to your ad in this thread.

Seems like 5 volts is too low coming from the power supply. Measure 5v and 12v on the test points of the power supply. Seems like it is time to recap the power supply.

Measure at the power supply as I mentioned. If it is bad from the source, no need to measure at the MPU.

Pretty positive Taxi and Whirlwind have the same power supply as Diner.

If you have 12 volts measuring less than 11.90v, then you probably have a bad bridge rectifier as well as needing replacement.

Here are the capacitors..
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W12246-PEC-KIT

No pictures showing proof of life?

Love my BK2K. Fast paced and a challenge to keep the 3 ball multiball going.

What connector did you change, and did it have any burnt pins? No burnt pins found on J6 of the interconnect board? Make sure you pull the 4 GI fuses off the interconnect board and test the fuses as the transformer will disguise a blown fuse in the GI circuit.

There is a playfield GI relay on the underside of the playfield. Any burnt pins to those 2 connectors of this relay board? If not, swap the playfield GI relay board with the backbox relay for further testing.

Is it a Rottendog power supply? If so, ditch it and get an original working power supply.

Please post a picture of the power supply.

After a rebuild, the original power supply is back good as new.

That capacitor you mentioned is C8, 47uf 63v, and it looks to be leaking. Oddly enough, it is not listed on the power supply BOM in the Fire manual. What if you remove the 1/4 amp fuse from F1, do you still hear the noise? I would expect not as removing the fuse would cut the high voltages from getting to the plasma display.

2019-12-23 10_36_47-Slack (resized).png

What brand capacitors are you using?

Does this sound level on the noise change as less text is shown on the display?

That can mean the male header pin on the board may have a broken solder joint. I would resolder all of them on the board first. Best to repin the wired connector anyway.

Send it out for repair is my advice.

How about posting a picture of your MPU board?

Taxi is 11B. According to your document, 11B would not apply since I see the use of a fuse on each of the bridge rectifiers on the auxiliary board.

Do you have 1J13 and 1J14 swapped?

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Finally got one.

20220603_192927 (resized).jpg

20220603_193032 (resized).jpg

20220603_211444 (resized).jpg

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/what-machine-did-you-bring-home-today-post-your-pictures?tq=&tu=gregcon

No picture for proof of life?

Sometimes there is actually nothing wrong with the PIA, even though it may be reported on the display upon turning on the game.

Start with replacing C30 22uf 25v axial electrolytic capacitor on the MPU. Observe the polarity when installing the replacement capacitor.

I already made a statement, which you quoted and ignoring the suggestion and then asking what to do. How about doing the suggestion and let's go from there?

Have to replace the C30 capacitor in both boards to find out.

I do not remember all the different PIA locations that had shown on different boards that I worked on over the years. It is on my list to change anytime I come across a MPU to repair.

Electrolytic capacitors only have a 15 year life expectancy. Sometimes they last longer by chance.

$100 bill cleans better than $1 bill.

With the game off, turn the volume control pot back and forth like 20 times. Improved it?

Do as I previously instructed. The idea is to try and clean the inside of the pot contacts.

That large capacitor rarely fails, so keep it in place. It is for the lamp matrix power to the insert lamps

Other than what you already did, I do NRVAM and never look back to batteries ever again.

Not for GI, but inserts.
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/led-ocd-boards-for-inserts

Bummer. I had just added to my cart to check it before posting. It seemed available at that time

I have a red Rottendog display in my Diner. I think red is the best color choice for it.

I think any LED display will be reliable.

IMG_20221229_204402 (resized).jpg