Just picked up a Bally Game Show recently. This is my first Bally/Williams pin. I've got two issues I'm looking for help with. First and foremost is the kicker to feed the ball trough isn't working. When a balls is in the drain and sits on the switch, there's a clicking noise from the power supply and it looks like the fuse in F5 is probably bad. Could this be as simple as a dead fuse? Where's a good place to buy replacements?

Other issue is the New Car drop target is permanently in the down position. Any advice or links to good resources for troubleshooting that would be appreciated.
The game otherwise plays fine with the glass off as long as I can manually load a ball in the shooter lane. Someone has definitely done some work on this guy as it has an LED kit, rottendog display and flippers are great.

Thanks!

So far I've tested every coil in that chain and each has continuity and each is getting about 40 volts. If I test from the coil at the end of the chain, I get continuity all the way back to the far end of the fuse on the aux. driver board. I get continuity on the trough switches as well. Of the 3 trough switches, the only one that gives any sign of life is the outhole switch. When the switch is activated, the outhole solenoid/kick there tries to move but just kind of jiggles instead.

Is it possible there's not enough voltage to the switch or would that even matter? Here's a link showing the outhole kicker trying to do it's thing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1gbzagginmfd3mo/IMG_5811.MOV?dl=0

Alright so the outhole kicker assembly was sticky and sluggish. I took it apart and cleaned it. Moves much better now. Once I did that, oddly enough the other solenoids wired on that series started working. The outhole kicker is still only partly working. It still does a little jiggly baby kick as shown in my video link. If I use my multimeter to tap the Q33 transistor on the MPU, the kicker actually engages full strength.

What could cause the kicker to not fully engage during play when the outhole switch is hit? I tested it for continuity and was fine... could the switch be bad? Is there something else on the MPU between Q33 and the coil causing trouble? It looks like Q33 has burned out before because someone did an ugly repair on it (as shown)

IMG_5830 (resized).jpeg

Q29 looks like it has 3 legs. What's the best way to test that guy?

Is there anything else between the Q29 pre-driver and the switch I should be looking at? Hitting Q33 operates the kicker very well so it's got to be something in between, I'm thinking.

The audio on my Bally Game Show is kind of tinny and sounds quiet/distant. Visual inspection doesn’t show any issues like loose connectors or burnt components. Any suggestions on where to look next? I’m learning as I go here and haven’t tackled sound issues before. Just replaced a TIP102 at Q33 on the MPU to get the outhole kicker running again!

My finger barely brushed the volume knob and the sound came back! Full sound is back and now with a heinous, loud buzz

I have a Game Show that has some worn insert decals but the rest of the playfield art is good. Don't have any experience with working on playfields. Any recommendations for how to remove what's left of the worn decals and putting new ones on? Is waxing over them enough or does it need mylar or something else?