Hey Brendan, congrats on the house! Kelly and I bought one last year also, finally enough room for my collection (and a few to come) in the basement.

What are you guys using to restore the original look to your System 11 (and also WPC) backbox hinges? In this particular case, Earthshaker and T2? I can't quite tell what the original black should look like.....semigloss? semiflat? matte black? I was figuring on using Rustoleum semigloss spray.

Looking for a diverter arm assembly for Riverboat Gambler..... or just the metal shaft..... or just the black arm. Whatever ya got.

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I'm finding that the black drop targets (part #03-8749, the ones that have opto tabs) on games such as Earthshaker and Riverboat Gambler are prone to breaking right at the thin part on the very bottom where the reset plate pops them back up. The plastic they're made of is unaffected by SciGrip solvent, the one I use to repair ramps, so that's no use. Has anyone had luck with using crazy glue to fix these, or are they made of one of the plastics the CA glues don't work well with? Yes, I can buy new ones, just don't want to if I don't have to.

Can anyone tell me what that tan Loctite-type stuff is that Williams used on all the threads on System 11 flipper assemblies? It looks and acts like a cross between Crazy Glue and mud, and it's on all the threads in the base, the bushing screws, coil stop screws, coil bracket screw, and EOS switch bracket screws.

That's actually never a problem anymore. Once I snapped a few when pulling them out of Earthshaker several years ago and started heating them with a soldering iron, they come out like butter. This hard crap on the flipper base threads is like a whole 'nother animal though.

So I am/was getting two annoying sounds through my High Speed speakers. First one was a high-pitched electronic "whine", which would change in volume as the lamps turned on/off in attract mode. I tightened all the boards' screws in the backbox and that eliminated 98% of the whine noise, so problem essentially solved there.

Second noise is a low pitched "hum". It mostly disappears if I disconnect either J1 or J2 from the sound board (same change when I unplug either one). Power supply possibly causing this?

Yes, original PS and original transformer. Thinking I need to either recap the PS or the sound board?

While we're on the subject of hums..... on my System 11's I've noticed two distinct and different hums. One was more of a higher-pitched electronic "whine" in my High Speed, that grew louder/softer in relation to whatever was lighting up on the playfield. I tightened every screw holding the boards and that hum/whine was reduced to a very acceptable level, so problem solved.

The other, on Pinbot, is a hum that sounds something like an electric razor. It stays at the same volume during attract mode and gameplay. I've tightened all boards' screws and it didn't change the hum one bit. I had picked up a sound board cap kit but don't want to molest what looks like a brand new board unless necessary, since I don't know what the cause might be. Would I be better off capping the sound board or the power supply first? I see where owners have recapped boards and nothing changed. What's my next move here?

They're all the original boards (serial # stickers match the machine) and have never had any work done to them. Not new, they just look like new, it's a fairly pristine machine. I've done a few cap kit installs on other Williams games and they've unfortunately never solved the problem.

Here are the sound board and power supply, only thing that looks iffy to me are C1 & C3 on power supply.

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