(Topic ID: 43458)

System 11 Club !

By mof

11 years ago


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#1574 7 years ago

I'm working on a Taxi I just got. I'm down to the smaller stuff after putting the topside parts back on. The current issue is the display. The top row works great, the bottom row isn't displaying anything. Totally dark. Is there any way to test if it works at all? Reading through the pinwiki, all it seems to talk about is if everything is affected by a power supply issue. To me it seems that power is going in fine, but might only be going to the top display.

Is there a way to get the display to light up if it's only getting power?

2 months later
#1628 7 years ago

Is there a way to adjust how hard the trough kicker kicks out the ball? My Taxi is now bouncing the ball off the wall and then it goes back into the trough. On my High Speed, sometimes it would barely pop the ball and so it would sit on the ledge.

#1631 7 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

It's not the coil power, it's the trough, the Angle of the metal right next to the shooter lane needs to be adjusted just right, my radical does it and so does my space station, sometimes I just have to pull glass and bend the angle toward me

Cool, I will check it out. Thanks.

6 months later
#1803 6 years ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

Better System 11, Space Station or Bad Cats? I have Space Station but have never played Bad Cats.

Bad Cats is a fun game. It has a few strategies which makes it more than "shoot this all day". I don't have a ton of EXP on either, but I played Space Station at Pinburgh and it was fast and fun.

2 months later
#1864 6 years ago

On my Police Force, but likely applies of any System 11 drop bank:

On the right drop bank, if I hit the top drop it gives me the capture and sweeping bonus. It then resets the bank. If I do the middle one first it gives regular points and resets the bank as well. The bottom drop acts normally. Since this is on a board, not loose wires, I’m not sure what to be looking for.

#1867 6 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

On my Police Force, but likely applies of any System 11 drop bank:
On the right drop bank, if I hit the top drop it gives me the capture and sweeping bonus. It then resets the bank. If I do the middle one first it gives regular points and resets the bank as well. The bottom drop acts normally. Since this is on a board, not loose wires, I’m not sure what to be looking for.

Any suggestions here? I inspected all of the solder joints and I cleaned the optos not all that long ago.

4 months later
#2044 6 years ago

A question on Diner, and a part hunt for F14:

Diner:
Still stumped as to why the ball can go under the left ramp, pause, and then register as a drain. Just went into switch test and clicked that switch ~50 times and it registered as the proper switch each time.

F14:
The switch for the left gate is all warped and locks the gate in the up position. Manual says it's part of an A-11550 assembly. I can only find that at Marco's and they are out of stock. I only need the switch, so anyone know what switch I need?

#2046 6 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Regarding your diner fault, it sounds like you have a bad diode somewhere. It will
Only manifest itself in conjunction with a 3rd switch activation which sounds like it’s causing a ghost switch activation, in this case the outhole switch. Try and recreate it in switch test by pressing the under ramp switch in conjunction with other switches to see which one ghosts the out hole (if that makes any sense whatsoever!)

I'll see what I can find. Aside from trough 1 and 2, and then the flipper buttons, I don't know what else might actually be triggered during the game.

#2049 6 years ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Yep, I was going to say the same thing.
Bad diode or broken diode ... start with the switches around the switch in question (on the matrix) and work from there.
It can take hours to sort out an issue like this. My Fathom had a random tilt issue .. in the end I had to replace every switch diode in the game to sort it out. 48 of them! The faulty one was one of the last 6 diodes I replaced ...
rd

That sounds like a nightmare. I'll get in there and test the diodes and see what I find.

#2057 6 years ago
Quoted from IdahoRealtor:

I am curently operating a High Speed, an F14 and hopefully a Taxi soon. They don't earn quite like the latest and greatest, but it's great to have some classics mixed in. The High Speed gets a lot of love.

I have a Diner, Taxi, F14, and Police Force on route. My biz partner has a WW and we both have High Speed projects. Diner tends to compete with my AFM as far as earnings go, and AFM was 6.5X the cost. Sys11s are great games, but are also great bang for the buck.

1 month later
#2116 5 years ago

Diner knocks and the displays don’t turn on when I power it up. Is it trying to tell me something?

2 months later
#2243 5 years ago

My display is out on Diner. It has happened in the past but a quick power cycle fixed it and then the issue went away. Well, yesterday it wouldn't go away. I swear I posted in the past about this and asked about the likely fix. It was answered but now for the life of me I can't find the post. I think it was a single capacitor that was suggested to be replaced. Sound familiar to anyone?

#2244 5 years ago

Ah ha! I had taken a screen shot, so still have no idea what thread it was in. It looks like C30 on the MPU board is the first target. 22mfd @10V.

3 weeks later
#2258 5 years ago

Whirlwind is randomly shooting out locked balls. This recently became my game, so I'm not super familiar with it. Any tips on this issue would be great. Thanks.

#2260 5 years ago
Quoted from Sciddleybop1980:

Fairly common mate. Check the lock and trough switches in switch test see how they’re behaving. I expect one of them will need a little tweak

Cool, thanks. This game has a credit dot fairly often as well. When you check it, it says lock 3 switch, which gets touched every time a ball gets locked. I think we have cleared it out from time to time, but is this also normal?

#2262 5 years ago

Next but if fun is a High Speed that had the head removed, and thus all of the connectors. I have another High Speed that I used to reference the harnesses that had lost their memory.

Powering it up and the right fuse shown blows. They are 7A each and are for the logic according to the little label. Pretty sure I got it all right, but will leave it alone and double check after a break. Anyway, any guesses as to what I need to be looking at to see what might be wrong?

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#2263 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Next but if fun is a High Speed that had the head removed, and thus all of the connectors. I have another High Speed that I used to reference the harnesses that had lost their memory.
Powering it up and the right fuse shown blows. They are 7A each and are for the logic according to the little label. Pretty sure I got it all right, but will leave it alone and double check after a break. Anyway, any guesses as to what I need to be looking at to see what might be wrong?
[quoted image]

Upon closer inspection, both fuses are blown. Testing the fuse holder side where power comes in, they both read 10.08VAC which is pretty close to the 9 that the manual says. I tested the BR and got .450ish numbers in diode test mode.

#2270 5 years ago

Can a BR be bad and still test good? Pinwiki says that if either logic fuse in the power supply board blows, the BR is bad. Mine tests good, but both fuses die in power up.

#2273 5 years ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

You should get open circuit with the probes one way and I'd expect something between .5 and .8 with the probes the other way around. There's 4 diodes in the bridge so you should be taking 8 separate readings.
eg.
Red | Black
----------------
AC1 | DC +
AC1 | DC -
AC2 | DC +
AC2 | DC -
DC +| AC1
DC +| AC2
DC - | AC1
DC - | AC2
If it test fine, I'd disconnect all the connectors to the MPU, sound, etc leaving only the connections to the transformer in the base of the cabinet and then power up. If it still blows those fuses, there's something wrong on the power board. Otherwise, you're looking elsewhere.

I have some 1A, 3A, and 5A circuit breakers that I use for troubleshooting. Considering these are both 7A fuses, I'll head to the electronics store I use and see if they have any 7's. I'm out of fuses too, and I'll get a new BR as well just in case. I only tested 4 ways according to the video I saw. I'll disconnect all the other connections and see if the breakers make it. If they do, I'll add things one at a time til I find the issue.

#2274 5 years ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

You should get open circuit with the probes one way and I'd expect something between .5 and .8 with the probes the other way around. There's 4 diodes in the bridge so you should be taking 8 separate readings.
eg.
Red | Black
----------------
AC1 | DC +
AC1 | DC -
AC2 | DC +
AC2 | DC -
DC +| AC1
DC +| AC2
DC - | AC1
DC - | AC2
If it test fine, I'd disconnect all the connectors to the MPU, sound, etc leaving only the connections to the transformer in the base of the cabinet and then power up. If it still blows those fuses, there's something wrong on the power board. Otherwise, you're looking elsewhere.

Progress! I made my circuit breakers and started plugging things in. The second item I did popped the breakers. Plugged in everything else and the breakers stayed on. Did this one again and they blew. My power supply board isn’t labeled, aside from starting and ending pins. This one is 1-15, and is the only one this big. Points to being 3J6 in the manual. Goes to the MPU board to provide 5V and logic ground.

#2279 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Progress! I made my circuit breakers and started plugging things in. The second item I did popped the breakers. Plugged in everything else and the breakers stayed on. Did this one again and they blew. My power supply board isn’t labeled, aside from starting and ending pins. This one is 1-15, and is the only one this big. Points to being 3J6 in the manual. Goes to the MPU board to provide 5V and logic ground.

I unplugged everything from the MPU and powered up and the breakers did not blow. I started plugging things back in and 1J15, which is the smaller of two connectors that comes from 3J6, caused them to blow. I was half way done plugging things in, so I’m going to finish that and see if anything else blows. Once that is done I will see if 1J15 does it when that is the only thing plugged in, or if something else also has to be plugged in.

#2286 5 years ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Do you mean 1J17?
[quoted image]

Nope, 1J15, which was my error. What I had plugged into there belongs on the sound board. Once that was corrected and everything plugged in the game was happier.

One time it powered up and all segments were on. While researching that, the high voltage fuse blew. Didn’t know that, but the displays had gone out, so I power cycled it and no displays, but a “1” in the MPU meaning the U25 RAM wasn’t working. Turned it off to research the display, which is when I found the fuse. New fuse and MPU boots fine and the displays are back.

I have no idea why all segments were locked on, or why the U25 error was showing, but it is working now. Have to put some playfield parts back on before I can play it, but with 3 in the trough a game will start. Woot woot!

#2288 5 years ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Excellent.
My Space Station occasionally does the same "all segments on" thing. I quickly flick it off, wait a bit, and turn it back on and it's fine. I realyl should track it down, but it's super intermittent. If you figure it out, PM me.
Actually, grumpy might recognise that symptom off the top of his head?

This high speed is going out on location, so if I could track that issue down I’d be much more comfortable.

#2292 5 years ago

Here is one for High Speed. Putting LED flashers in and they are staying on at all times. Something locked on?

2 weeks later
#2361 5 years ago

The High Speed that I recently put on route is locking up at least 10-20% of the games that get played on it. I played quite a lot before it went out and never locked up on me. The sounds are quite interesting though. Everything is very drawing out.

The first thing I found online was that a coil diode was likely bad, but wouldn’t that lock it up every game that it is fired? We saw no pattern and I went into coil test mode and had them cycle through several times without it locking up.

1 month later
#2462 5 years ago

On Whirlwind I have been getting locked balls kicked out automatically. I asked on here and the first suggestion was to replace the 3 lock switches. I did that and played a few games without issue. On the last test game I was going to play sure enough the balls kick out. So about the same regularity prior to the new switches. It hasn't mattered if there are one or two balls locked.

I set up both 1 and 2 balls locked and triggered each switch on the rows and column that are shared with the 3 lock switches. I did this multiple times. None of them triggered it to kick out the balls. One thing to note is that when it kicks out the balls it just kicks them out. If there is one locked and I drop another into the lock area (as if the next highest switch is triggered) it will say "ball 2 locked" and then kicks out the next ball. So at this point I don't think it's a lock switch activating and causing it to kick out.

4 weeks later
#2480 5 years ago
Quoted from dozer1:

This is not always the fix, but it has corrected problems like this 3 out of 4 times for me anyway. Here is a cut and paste from an old thread.
Quoted from dozer1:
I might have a couple of games with similar issues. As long as I double click the toggle switch, everything will be OK and the games will boot without issue. If I just click the game on (like you should be able to do) a host of different things can happen. No display, bad noise from speaker, cleared high scores and settings, to name a few. This happens with my Taxi, Whirlwind, and F-14 sometimes. I will keep an eye on your thread for possible answers, otherwise continue double clicking as it is something I can live with.
The reset capacitor at C30 (a 22 uf electrolytic) can cause this. I have had mulitple games where they won't boot unless you flip the power twice and every time it was C30.

I went to my location today and the display was out again, so it was time to change C30. I did that and the display is now working when I power up, which is the good news. The interesting side is that in the two times I power cycled it, the knocker sounded both times. There are no other errors that it is showing, and was something that only ever happened previously when the display failed to come on. It's not an issue in reality as long as the display works, but if I can make it stop I'd prefer to.

4 weeks later
#2501 5 years ago

My Police Force was off today when I went to check the location it's in. Powered up and it said U25 RAM FAILURE, which is pretty lame since I just replaced that less than a year ago. Is there something that could have made it go bad so quickly? I might do NVRAM this time around.

1 month later
#2519 5 years ago

After replacing C30 on Diner to fix my display not showing anything and causing the game not to boot, the issue is back. It's only been a few months. I ordered 5 of those caps, so I could replace it again, but could that really be the issue? Is there another part of the display reset circuit that might also need to be looked at?

1 week later
#2543 5 years ago
Quoted from stumptown:

I had this happening with my Big Guns and it ended up being intermittent connections in the cabinet/backbox connector for the switch harness. It would seemingly randomly come and go and generally switch test looked totally fine.

Hmm, that's some pretty good sleuthing. Can I ask what it took to fix this? Reseating the connector? Repin wires and a new header? Reflow solder?

#2578 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You maybe correct but some of us myself included can't make heads or tails of the ladder diagrams, and I think I am a fair troubleshooter.

I create schematics as a smaller part of my job, and I hate trying to figure out EM schematics. I get them, but they do not present the same way I'd expect them to so I have to switch the way I look at them a little.

#2582 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

That's my problem, but I don't what I am missing to make things click.

After all the help you have given me and others, if you have a schematic question send it my way and I'll help as best I can.

3 weeks later
#2664 5 years ago

I need head locks for 2 High Speed machines and 1 F-14. Marco didn't seem to have them and the HS manual wasn't much help for part numbers. Anyone know if these games have the same head lock, and what the part number might be? I need everything since there's just holes in the head right now.

#2666 5 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I know F-14 has a different head lock. Had to get one myself. Try planetary pinball.

Different than High Speed? They are both up by the beacon(s), but I didn't look to see if they were in the exact same spot. I just want things to stop falling apart when I transport them really.

1 week later
#2685 5 years ago

Just installed NVRAM into my High Speed and now that I have the board back in the machine it won’t boot. GI comes on, the displays have the glow in the corner showing they are getting power. I’m getting 5V at the test point on the MPU but the single digit display is off.

I’m not saying it’s the NVRAM, because I ordered 5 and neither of the first 2 I tired made a difference. I made sure that none of the pins are shorted to their neighbors.

#2687 5 years ago
Quoted from kermit24:

I would remove the NVRAM and use the socket to test the pins (tone it with a multimeter) for continuity at their destination. Likely a trace was lifted or one pin not soldiered quite right.[quoted image]

Shockingly, everything buzzes happily at U26, U31 and Q40. Grounds on pin 12 and 20. Pin 24 buzzes at D1 and D2 like schematic shows.

#2688 5 years ago

I put my other High Speed board in (still has batteries, no NVRAM) and only plugged in 1J17. It gave me a zero on that board. Went back to the NVRAM board and did some observing. I thought I saw the RAM display flicker, so turned off the lights and recorded this. Does this indicate anything? Seems like it flickers when powered off. I was originally wondering if that display had gone bad.

#2694 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Did you test out the data lines to nearby PIA chip like U-10? Just because the data lines are good to the ROMs doesn't mean they are still good to the PIAs. These traces start on the top side of the board under the chip and travel thru vias to the bottom side of the board and then to the PIA chip U-10.

Is this a logic probe task? Is the process documented at all?

#2696 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

No, just ohm them out, U-25 D0 to U-10 D0, U-25 D1 to U-10 D1 and so on.

I’m not sure I’m following the relationship between U25 and U10.

FBA089B4-6A15-435F-B81B-A7194A607B65 (resized).jpegFBA089B4-6A15-435F-B81B-A7194A607B65 (resized).jpeg
#2699 5 years ago

Ok, did a continuity test and everything seems to be ok. These are the points.

D0: U10-33 to U25-9
D1: U10-32 to U25-10
D2: U10-31 to U25-11
D3: U10-30 to U25-13
D4: U10-29 to U25-14
D5: U10-28 to U25-15
D6: U10-27 to U25-16
D7: U10-26 to U25-17

1 week later
#2703 5 years ago

While trying to figure out what I did wrong on my NVRAM install, I fried SR13 on High Speed. I’m not even sure how it’s related to U25.

C37C024F-9348-4282-87C3-13EB25B0A5CB (resized).jpegC37C024F-9348-4282-87C3-13EB25B0A5CB (resized).jpeg
#2704 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

While trying to figure out what I did wrong on my NVRAM install, I fried SR13 on High Speed. I’m not even sure how it’s related to U25.
[quoted image]

I’ll save everyone the head scratching. 1J9 and 1J11 are keyed the same and on the same row. If you plug the solenoids into 1J9 you will toast SR13.

Play testing the game now. Fingers crossed.

#2706 5 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Ouch! Hopefully it stopped at SR13.

It appears that is the case. At least 10 games and the game is playing well and playing fast.

#2721 5 years ago

Hey there System 11 family. Where can I go to ask questions for System 6 issues? I have a Laser Ball that I just started working on (after rebuilding the bottom panel of the head) and am having some boot issues.

4 weeks later
#2746 4 years ago

Well this is new. Game will freeze after a game ends. Power cycle fixes it, but not ideal for location. Any ideas?

EA440216-7DBF-4E0B-94BD-239B30449462 (resized).jpegEA440216-7DBF-4E0B-94BD-239B30449462 (resized).jpeg
#2754 4 years ago
Quoted from cjchand:

I have experienced the same, though it's been too rare for me to get to root cause. I know it has to do with the ball not being detected when it goes into the trough. The game will just sit there if it has lost track of all 3 balls. Saw the same thing happen to a HS at TPF.
Sorry I don't have anything helpful, other than to say you're not alone

Interesting. The lights you see on weren’t caught during a show or anything, that’s all that was on and did not change until power cycled. I have some spare drain switches though and will swap them if it happens again and see if it goes away.

It is infrequent, but not rate for me yet. Happened twice in the span of maybe 40 games between home and location.

1 week later
#2759 4 years ago
Quoted from cjchand:

Interesting. It's nowhere near that frequent for me. I've got ~1500 plays on mine and have only seen it 2-3 times.
Of course, this is pinball, so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Best of luck hunting it down!

With that ratio, I wouldn’t see it again for a long time. Here’s to hoping.

1 month later
#2775 4 years ago
Quoted from Azfalconfixer:

Picked up a High Speed. Overall good shape. One issue it has when powered up the knocker and kicker fire. Everything seems to work ok. What could cause this? thanks

Mine fired the knocker when there was a display reset circuit issue. I assumed it was to signal an issue since the display couldn’t show anything. But it has also happened when everything seemed fine.

1 month later
#2808 4 years ago

My Taxi was resetting with no pattern I was able to figure out. The only thing is it did it at times when coils were going off. Today it happened when I hit the ramp to start multiball. It rang the bell one time and reset as it kicked the ball out.

I opened the game and I had actually rebuilt the power supply about a year ago. I have a few games, so I don’t remember all the repairs I do. But, system 11 resets normally mean the power supply need to be rebuilt. Sooooooo, what do you do if you’ve already rebuilt it?

2 weeks later
#2812 4 years ago

On Diner when I power it up it fires a coil or two, doesn't start up the display, and there is a low level "buzz" type of hum coming from the speakers. It has failed to boot in the past (and I have replaced C30) but didn't have the buzz like this. The LEDs on the MPU from left to right are solid/off/off.

#2814 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Seems like 5 volts is too low coming from the power supply. Measure 5v and 12v on the test points of the power supply. Seems like it is time to recap the power supply.

I have several System 11s, so cant remember which power supplies I have and have not rebuilt. If I have already done that, is there a next step to look at? 5/12v at power supply and at MPU?

#2816 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

Measure at the power supply as I mentioned. If it is bad from the source, no need to measure at the MPU.

Gotcha. I’ll be back at this location on Saturday. I have a cap kit but have to confirm its for the correct board set.

1 month later
#2835 4 years ago

My Diner diverter is spasming at random moments of gameplay. It happens for a second or so and then goes away. Anyone ever seen this to guess what’s up?

#2836 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

My Diner diverter is spasming at random moments of gameplay. It happens for a second or so and then goes away. Anyone ever seen this to guess what’s up?

Solved: the spring that connects to the coil plunger had broken and was making the diverter look like it was fluttering. Fixed now.

1 week later
#2837 4 years ago

More fun with Diner. When I turn it on it gives a credit dot. Checking that it says something like “can’t raise lift ramp”. There was also a ball sitting in the right side Today’s Special scoop. When I retrieved the ball the outhole kicker shot it into the trough, so that coil works. When I turned it on and pressed start when I first got to the game it did a ball search with several coils and said pinball missing. So at least some coils are working.

Once all 3 balls were in the trough, I pressed start. Instead of kicking a ball out and starting a game the display did a slow motion powering off thing. GI was still on, but the game seemed to freeze. I just did it again and the display didn’t power down, but the inserts looked like it started a game, but the game made a bong sound and then went into attract mode. I’ve never seen a System 11 do this. I did a cap kit on the power supply a few weeks ago, so the power supply should at least be happy.

Not sure if this matters, but the relay on the aux power board (bottom right) clicks 5 times when it boots. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it happens.

#2839 4 years ago

I can see this as being the case. I had this turned on for my F14 and it drove the location crazy, but nobody told me for a while so I could actually fix it. I don’t want to pull Diner to dig into it, but it’s looking like I might have to.

#2842 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

More fun with Diner. When I turn it on it gives a credit dot. Checking that it says something like “can’t raise lift ramp”. There was also a ball sitting in the right side Today’s Special scoop. When I retrieved the ball the outhole kicker shot it into the trough, so that coil works. When I turned it on and pressed start when I first got to the game it did a ball search with several coils and said pinball missing. So at least some coils are working.
Once all 3 balls were in the trough, I pressed start. Instead of kicking a ball out and starting a game the display did a slow motion powering off thing. GI was still on, but the game seemed to freeze. I just did it again and the display didn’t power down, but the inserts looked like it started a game, but the game made a bong sound and then went into attract mode. I’ve never seen a System 11 do this. I did a cap kit on the power supply a few weeks ago, so the power supply should at least be happy.
Not sure if this matters, but the relay on the aux power board (bottom right) clicks 5 times when it boots. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it happens.

I went over to the location today to fiddle with Diner. After researching a little about resets I was going to look to see if a switch was stuck in the same "corner" pattern of the switch matrix as the slam tilt, but to just check the slam tilt first. No switches were stuck. I don't know if it alerted me or I stumbled on it, but the second (upper) switch in the "Today's Special" scoop wasn't registering. I was looking in that area because a player said that it wasn't kicking out from there when it was working.

The lower switch was working just fine, but the upper one (why is there even an upper one?) was not. I figured it was bad since it wasn't clicking. I removed the screws, and it was clicking again. Ok, let's bend the lever so it releases the click. Done. Press start. Game doesn't reset, so that's a good start. Was that the issue? No clue. Playing the game that kickout still wasn't firing the ball. Same thing with the lift ramp to lock the ball. Under the playfield I see that they have the same wire providing power. The multimeter that I keep in my tool box in the car is not working, so I was trying to inspect things without it, but with an ACE one lot over I could get one if I needed. I found what fuse was for that coil group and sure enough the fuse was blown. Not sure what all happened, but I'm guessing that the switch getting stuck caused the coil to lock on and then blew the fuse. After a few test games everything was working so fingers crossed.

10 months later
#3162 3 years ago

I got this little guy staring at me on my MPU. It’s a High Speed that day for about a year and worked before I set it aside until the tome came for a hardtop install. I have recapped the power supply board and am getting 5v on the TP on the MPU. Any guesses what it’s trying to tell me?

8AEB0DDE-486F-4FD1-B818-C9FFF4D11DDE (resized).jpeg8AEB0DDE-486F-4FD1-B818-C9FFF4D11DDE (resized).jpeg

1 week later
#3169 3 years ago

If my HS won’t boot, and is giving what looks like the bottom half of a “3” in the readout (but who knows), do I just shotgun the CPU and whatever else pinwiki says could be bad? Voltages are good. 6116 NVRAM.

1 month later
#3185 3 years ago

Solved my issue with my High Speed MPU not booting and giving a random set of lines on my status display. It was C30. At least that was the last thing I replaced before it worked. Repaired some acid damage prior to replacing C30, but the display didn’t change after doing that.

11656A6F-A5DD-441C-8BC6-5825D0793B3D (resized).png11656A6F-A5DD-441C-8BC6-5825D0793B3D (resized).png4C2EFFCC-B4C7-4F74-8ACE-7FC04368E123 (resized).jpeg4C2EFFCC-B4C7-4F74-8ACE-7FC04368E123 (resized).jpeg
#3188 3 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I have a High Speed System-11 board on my bench and it boots with an eight on the led display.
I tried to find what this means, but I cannot find anything other than it being an indication about blanking.
But I haven't gone into the chip testing function jet.
The board tested good with a test eprom (going into blinking mode).
Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I think Pinwiki has some info about checking blanking voltages and signals.

2 years later
#3981 1 year ago

The spring steel hinge on my left ramp entrance broke, and probably had been broken since I got the game because it had a section of mylar over it holding the two pieces together, and I didn’t put it there. So I took the parts off, traced a new piece on spring steel, and made a new one.
Putting it all back together it isn’t dropping. I also replaced the “pin crank stud” that the ramp rides on because the old one was almost worn through.
Problem is, not it’s not dropping on its own. I made sure the path for the stud is smooth and the ramp flap isn’t touching anything, so it’s not stuck open.
The spring on the coil that raises the ramp seems very weak, like I wouldn’t expect it to be doing much of anything to help push the mech back to the lowered position. If I press the release latch from the top, the ramp flap just sits there.
The stud is also not stuck in the slot of the side wall it pokes through, I already messed with that a little.
One curious thing is it seems like the arm that swings back and forth to lift and lower the ramp goes pretty far forward. It’s almost straight up which would allow it to just sit there when the release latch activates. I didn’t do anything with that arm though when I fixed the flap, and it was working fine when the flap was broken. Just another observation.

26E618A0-F150-4204-817F-1533FB0FDF78 (resized).jpeg26E618A0-F150-4204-817F-1533FB0FDF78 (resized).jpeg
#3983 1 year ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

My experience with drop ramps is that the ramp must fall to the playfield under its own weight, and is lifted by the coil action. The ability for it to fall is determined by the flexibility of the spring steel hinge. My guess would be that the spring steel you used is too thick. When I make up lift ramps for Pinbot/Jackbot, I use .005" spring steel. With the lift ramp out of the game, you should be able to set the bracket that supports the lift ramp on a flat surface and the ramp should fall to the surface under its own weight.

Thanks. I will get a thinner material and make another and see how it goes.

#3991 1 year ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I picked up a project Party Zone and found the batteries had leaked. Is this worth trying to salvage or should I just get a replacement? If replacement, which is the best? I couldn't find a wpc club thread so I thought I'd post here.
[quoted image]

There is some corrosion under the right side battery. That will need to be handled as well as some remote or lithium batteries.

#3999 1 year ago
Quoted from Dpirhana:

Your picture shows the back edge of the flap UNDER the plastic ramp. It needs to be on top of the plastic ramp, as in the picture below. See if that helps.[quoted image]

That’s just the upper plastic ramp piece having been removed and sitting on top. I haven’t yet, but I can’t wait to slice my finger open on one of the three pieces of spring steel that is a part of that transition from the metal ramp to the plastic one.

2 months later
#4130 10 months ago

My Taxi is blowing the left flipper fuse. When you flip and hold it can be fine, or it can cause a buzz to come from the left speaker. This is a super weird duo. But, if you flip and hold and the speaker is buzzing, it will blow the fuse within a second or so. Anyone ever seen this before?

5 months later
#4395 4 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Yep, I have had to scrap multiple board because of alkaline damage, on games that hadn’t been played in decades, purchased from owners who didn’t know how to remove the backglass.
Here, the risk that I forget to change batteries for a very very long time, they leak, then explode outside the battery holder, then make a direct hit on a board that they aren’t connected to, then cause damage, is probably one in a million. That actually might be on the low side.
But your point is well taken, it’s best practice to install nvram and I shouldn’t be cheap and lazy. It has been ordered and should arrive this weekend.

If nothing else, I do Energizer Lithiums until I can get some NVRAM.

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