With scoops, make sure the rubber tip on the end of the VUK plunger hasn’t broken off. If it’s bare metal the arm likely isn’t long enough anymore and it’s damaging the ball.

You can try waxing the playfield and cranking the rear feet up more. If you want to make adjustments to the game just hit the advance button on the coin door (the one all the way to the left from your perspective) and then once you make it to the setting you want to adjust, hit the start button. Once you get to the end of the menu it will save your settings.

I haven’t looked at that game so not sure. Is it one of those up/down ramps like on whirlwind or Pinbot? If so it may be a flaky position switch and the coil may be firing to try and get the ramp in the “correct” position

Yes. Happened on my WW when I first got it. Sometimes happens once if it’s been sitting a while. Adjust “ramp down” switch to be more sensitive or replace

Is that a CPR playfield? The diner inserts make me think yes but it looks amazing!

Yes. Upon power up if there are any errors there will be an audible noise in addition to the screen showing “press enter for Test Report” on early sys11 games this may just be a knocker, but on later games, they had unique sounds that would play in addition to the normal startup bong

Can confirm. My whirlwind either powers on with a quick speaker squeal or firing the knocker if it’s been sitting. If it hasn’t been off long it’ll power up quietly. Bad Cats on the other hand makes a noise that I can only describe as a terrifying electric noise while also firing a coil. So I’d say the coil thing is normal.

I’d probably scrub that board down really good. If anything else prevents possible flammable material being removed from the pins

Added another one. Not sure if I’ll like this game or not but got it as a semi working project on the cheap!

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That’s ironically the same way mine is setup

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So that fire I picked up, there are several solenoids not working. I’m trying to read the schematic and if I’ve done it right, the. I initially suspected the A/C select but just want to make sure as the ramp on the left side seems to sporadically move despite both solenoids for that being on the problematic “A” side. Which leads to my question. I’m looking at the manual and it states that at rest the relay connects to the A side. It appears though that everything working is on the C side. It could be that the driver transistor for the AC is shorted but then I wouldn’t expect it to click each time? I also measured voltages at the non working coils and none of them had power. When the A/C select doesn’t have a coil “selected” does it lose its power as well or merely the connection to ground? The problem solenoids in this game are all in the “switched section. What am I missing here?

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I just ran through test. The only ramp coil working is right down. I also ran through switch test of the playfield switches. The only stuff not working is the 6 stand ups at the top of the playfield. Maybe the switch stack inside the relay is worn and not detecting the contact to give the coils power. No coil on the A side is working

Will do, I believe on Fire it is located on the rear left side of the playfield and is white instead of yellow, there are no header pins as on the early ones they soldered the wires directly to the pads, but the cracked joints may be at the relay itself. I’ve checked and that is the one that is physically clicking during the test mode. It also clicks on a repetitive motion while in attract mode. I believe it is attempting to go back to the A side to correct a ramp that is out of position to no avail as when I raise the playfield, the clicking stops.

Here are pictures of Sol 12 A/C select. It does not show any suggestion of cold joints

With 1J12 removed, there is still no voltage at problem coils.
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I found only one fuse under the playfield, and it was for the flame tube. Am I missing a 2nd fuse somewhere?

Edit: Found it. Hiding behind thick wiring and it tests bad
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I put in a 2.5 AMP fuse. Upon startup, I cannot hear anything lock on, however. After a few seconds I smell the familiar smell of when my taxi burnt a coil and immediately shut off. I went through all the coils I could see and none were warm to the touch. I went to the backbox and nothing on cpu was hot. Don’t want to send anything up in flames. The bridges have not yet been modified to have the inline fuse for early system 11s. Fuse blew so probably a problem somewhere. I’m noticing that several coils have a half ass diode install on them. If I’m not mistaken The coils don’t even need a diode as that’s what the diode board under the playfield is for. Only the flippers should need them.
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That’s where I’m mixed up then, my other sys 11s are the later versions with the Aux power board

I found the culprit and determined why I wasn’t able to hear anything lock on. The culprit was the ramp raise solenoid. The ramp was already in the up position which is why I couldn’t see or hear anything as the plunger was already inside the coil. This must have happened before I got the game because those solenoids had never worked. Moving the plunger for that ramp is very hard and it shows signs of heat damage. And Q32 is what made the magic smoke smell. Without even testing can tell it is blown. Exhibit a and b

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And after testing, I found a separate driver and pre driver that were bad. All of them connected to U20. All of those items have been removed and replaced. Before I put the board back in I’m going to remove all of the diodes that are soldered in completely wrong and replace them with new ones the correct way.

If you find a new one, you let me know the source. Currently have a dude where the big shot figure is a cutoff sling plastic from funhouse so we are basically punching the girl!

Can someone post a photo of how a system 11 with the side entry back glass lock is supposed to look? I see the part the lock is supposed to push on to hold glass In place but I can’t figure out what the cam is supposed to look like. Obviously the one in my picture is wrong but I am able to extend that one straight up but it looks like a flat one would not be able to hold it either in the fully upright position as it looks like it would just slide right past the lock cam.

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So I’m working on rebuilding the upper flipper on my Transporter. I am a little bit confused. The long shaft flipper does have a c clamp on it for “correct” height but when I use it, the flipper seems to sit higher than others I’ve seen and also seems like it’s unnaturally high. I tried removing it, when I lower it down to a level that looks like it’s reasonable, the ball guide right behind it seems to collide with the rubber causing interference in its return. Is there any adjustment for the the exact resting position the fat end sits at? First photo shows the positioning with the spacer on the shaft. 2nd position seems like a more correct height but that’s about as far back as the flipper can retract before the ball guide hits the rubber and stops it’s from retracting.
Edit: replaced bushing and it’s fine now

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Diner is an 11C and does not require this modification. That modification is only recommended for the early 11 and 11A board sets without the AUX power driver. From High speed up to and including Fire!

I haven’t personally had to buy any replacement displays. The Transporter I bought has the Bally split Rottendog displays and they look very close to original. Only way to tell is the more pronounced segment lines when off. Pin score is also a good option, many of those installed in location game near me and the look good too. Basically all should be fine, get whichever is in stock and convenient

Sometimes just happens with age. These things are approaching 40 years in the case of 11 and 11A and sometimes the only explanation is age. The board set is reliable and I suspect you won’t find any more issues with the bridge after replacement

Does anywhere sell the yellow long shaft carrot flipper as used on Transporters upper flipper? I replaced the worn out lower Williams bats that were on mine but the upper on I couldn’t seem to find and it is also pretty worn looking.

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Redacted

Lol my friends dad is from Adelaide Australia and all he goes on and on about are the “bloody New Zealanders” I would love to see interaction from locals between the two places

Does anyone see anything obviously out of place on either of these switch stacks? I’m trying to diagnose switches not working on Fire! (All of the upper stand ups) they are coincidently connected to the lane change switches and as I have already replaced the transistor (which had been replaced before) plus the chip for the switches. I’m now suspecting a high voltage short from the flippers. Before replacing the chip and transistor again, would like some expert eyes to see anything obvious. What would I need to order to completely rebuild the switch stacks? Obviously half of it is a flipper rebuild but as far as the regular lane change switch, is there a switch to order that covers both?

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I’m surprised to report shorting the pins activated the switches in edge test. I guess that means I have a wiring break

I’m also getting a reading of 008 on diode setting from the right lane change to the pin. I’m stumped as to why nothing in that column is registering without jumping pins. I will note I have to wiggle the probe a lot more to get a reading vs the other columns.
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I’m gonna have to probably take that wire out of the bundle. This game was a project and the board was toast in multiple spots when I got it. I have replaced the switch transistor for that column. Before I changed it, it was visibly damaged and also looked like it had been changed before. There were also a couple of blown solenoid transistors. Poor wiring on every coil that some idiot had done before. I’ve had it sitting for a while because it had so many issues. I’m getting motivated to get it going again. This is the last issue on the electrical side (as far as I know) I need to pop the fuse back in under the playfield to test the transistor, rewiring of every solenoid I have done. The left ramp up was locked on and blew that solenoid circuit.

I want it too! Just haven’t found one close yet!

Nothing extra needed. Just keep in mind, if you are also doing the under playfield inserts to use non ghosting bulbs, otherwise, you may have bulbs that are dimly lit when they are supposed to be off. For the regular illumination you can use the regular 1 or 2 SMDs

Your power supply board is likely due for rebuild

Brought another home today!

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I drove 14 hours round trip to get it! It’s mostly working. Has a couple of flaky switches. Other than that it’s dirty and needs shopped and updated to LED

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On the Rollergames I picked up recently, the double diverter mechanism was frozen, almost like it had a coil that overheated at some point. Almost impossible to move the mechanism. To my surprise, I found no replaced or damaged transistors and no sign of damage to the coil when I took the mechanism out. Next step I undid the linkage that moves both diverters together. Now o found that both of them are still very hard to turn. I can’t see anything out of order with it. All I can think of is someone tried to use lubricant at some point and now it’s basically concrete. Luckily I had a second trashed ramp I was able to steal the diverter mech off that and it’s working now, but was wondering if there is any chance of salvaging the second one? I tried to figure out how to get it apart but I can’t seem to get the crank arms off to remove the shaft to inspect it.

Around 220-250LBS

Is it booting? I can clearly see alkaline damage on the battery pads but above and below look good from what I can see.

Edit: never mind. See it now on the chips below.

Id rank space station, then jokerz. Grand lizard doesn’t get a fair shake because I haven’t played it enough.

Brought another one home!

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Thanks, looking to get most of the system 11 greats by the time I’m done. Looking to add Mousin Around, Pinbot, Diner, Swords of Fury, Radical, and Elvira. That should about complete what I’m looking for.

It’s definitely up there. A lot of the system 11 games have very good music. Whirlwind, BK2K, Earthshaker. Bride of Pinbot also has very good music

It’s possible you have a transistor that’s failed but those usually fail as a short. You’d have to test to confirm it’s bad. You’re sure all 3 lugs are getting voltage and the switches are registering? Have you done a switch edge test yet?

I am about to start a major system 11 project/revival of a Swords of Fury. Game is in pieces and has been out of commission for 10 years. Going to start with the cabinet and then move on to the playfield. It comes with a NOS playfield and I’m wondering if anyone has any advice on how to handle that? It’s very nice with minor imperfections in the top right corner which will be covered by the ramps. Should I look into clear coating it or adding Mylar? It currently has neither and I don’t want it to start wearing quickly without something in place. How difficult is a clear coat? If full playfield Mylar a bad choice?

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Will likely make a thread, not sure exactly how quickly moving it will be though. I’m going to pick this project up in the next 2 weeks, after that, first order of business will be replacing the MPU, Power supply, and Aux power supply boards. All 3 of these are missing. I think I may be able to get a used original power supply that needs a full rebuild of both high voltage and recap for free. The other two I’m working with DumbAss on as I have no interest in the Rottendog boards. After that, there will likely be a halt from paying for the project and boards. Game is currently in pieces but the guy selling did a check and was able to verify all major components and harnesses are there.

Did you verify all of the wires connected to these things match up with the manual? That is quite a few solenoids off but it’s possible someone hacked the wiring not paying attention

The only thing that would be different is the transformer jumper so that the machine got 220v vs 120v. I’ll take a look later but you’re going to want to make sure all wiring colors and connections match the manual at both the coils themselves as well as where they connect.

Use the solenoid table to quickly verify wire colors and connections on both the coil and connector side. It will even go as far as giving you the exact pin the wire should be in. It should go playfield>interconnect>cpu

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Can someone tell me what parts these are? One looks to be a plastic insulation piece for wires leaving the power box. Not sure the official name or where to find it. On the side where the power cord comes in, is that some type of strain relief fastener?

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Trying to decide what color GI for my Swords of Fury. Stuck between frosted sunlight and clear cool white. Usually I’d do cool white for blues and warm or sunlight for reds. This game has plenty of both! Anyone have pictures of theirs?

Both bad cats and RBG are later system 11 games with the 2 x 16 digit displays. The only difference is RBG will have an additional output to daisy chain to the extra display. Not sure if it will work, I’m sure if you plug it in, worse that would happen is garbled data but it still should light up

Hmmm. It may be because it’s looking for that second display to complete the circuit. I don’t think it’s like older games where you can simply move the connector to another spot to test.

For those that may not have been following my thread, I successfully resurrected Swords of Fury serial 211 from its bucket of parts of 16 years. With the NOS playfield and translite, it looks brand new!

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What part is cut out? Solenoids, switches, or lamps? Or is it simply the GI? If it’s the GI, what likely happened is that the playfield had stapled wire braid that was not actually apart of the harness and will need to be remade

The good news is if it’s inside the cabinet and not apart of the playfield, it’s easy to make yourself. Controlled Lamp wires for the playfield for this era are generally yellow-x and red-x, switches are generally white-x and green-x, solenoids will be colors such as VIO-x, blue-x, orange, red etc. it sounds like you may have missing wires from the transformer secondary or possibly coils. Detailed pictures would help. I don’t have a Pinbot currently but I will see what I can find on the topper.

Yes, those would be easier/cheaper to make yourself. You’ll need a crimp tool capable of handling .93 and .156 crimp pins. And various size molex housings. If I were you, I’d make the obvious ones like the general illumination (yellow wire). And get photos of the connectors you aren’t sure about from the Pinbot club (or you could look at the owners manual and search for the wire colors which would tell you their location and pin position). Wirebot on here or Marco has a good selection of most of these wires (18 awg would be the correct size for these locations)

You are able to use molex vs IDC (factory). This is recommended if you are doing them anyways

High speed, GL, Road Kings,and Pinbot are the same

Millionaire-Jokerz is the same

Earthshaker-BBBB are the same (not accounting for Bally vs Williams backbox heads)

Any wire carrying voltage (solenoid power for example) will be 18AWG. Switch and lamp matrix wires will be 22 AWG