(Topic ID: 43458)
Linked Games
Bad Cats
Williams, 1989-
Banzai Run
Williams, 1988
-
Big Guns
Williams, 1987
-
Black Knight 2000
Williams, 1989
-
Bugs Bunny's Birthday Ball
Bally, 1990
-
Cyclone
Williams, 1988
-
Diner
Williams, 1990
-
Dr. Dude
Bally, 1990
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You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Freeplay40.
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Bothell, WA
1 month later
Last Call for new High Speed clear ramps....for now. I made 5 more ramps and now I will stop making them until probably late this fall...or time permitting based on weather. I know... weather???. I live in Seattle and you know our reputation for rain... So when it's nice you just have to take advantage. If it rains and there are requests I'll likely do them. I'm doing a clear and blue for Space Station in the next week or two then will likely do the same there...hold off until fall.
Last call ramps 1.JPG
Last call ramps 2.JPG 4 weeks later
Quoted from MustangPaul:I have STPro, Space Station and BoP also. You have good taste sir.
Don't think I ever officially joined the club... Have High Speed, BOP, EAPTM and F-14.
Quoted from Spitfiren8:Sign me up!
image-180.jpg 224 KB
Nice ramp on the Space Station!!!
Quoted from mof:Hi, I'm wondering what you mean by a "Tech chart" ?
-mof
Me too... Not a clue what a tech chart is.
4 weeks later
Ramp update... Summer is basically over so I am returning to making ramps. I am running another batch of High Speed ramps now and within 2 weeks will run another batch of the blue Space Station ramps... And in the meantime, with the assistance of another Pinside member, will start the next ramp project...will announce later, but not a System 11.....but, I have a really nice restored F-14 and will be making a new colored ramp for it, possibly with an programmable LED mod.
Quoted from Fifty:Wha? F-14 owner here… There isn't a ramp so now you have me intrigued.
Actually not a ramp per se.... The collector/diverter in the upper left corner. Black ABS stock. I'm going to do it in a transparent color (Blue or red) then add lighting underneath.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:Do they have to be working Sign me up!
I have a High Speed in the middle of a full restore and tear down and a project Roller Games that I just bought.
I do have High Speed ramps available now. Just did a short run of 10. Half already spoken for. If interested, the details are here...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-clear-ramp
Mark
2 weeks later
7 months later
Quoted from Hazoff:Heres my SS and F14, WWind coming soon and looking at mint Pinbot but hes asking big money. It looks amazing though.
Nice ramp in that Space Station! Next up after Swords of Fury is F-14!
5 months later
Quoted from boscokid:I just need to replace the 7 pin and the 10 pin and crimp new molex connectors on the other side and it should be good as new?
Good to go...then if not already done, convert to LED's for the GI and reduce draw.
1 week later
2 years later
1 week later
1 month later
It can be dangerous trying to remove a soldered chip. If it were me, I'd start with replacing the existing socket...assuming it is bad. If that does not solve, try reflowing the soldered chip.....but I'll defer to GRUMPY!
4 weeks later
Quoted from dozer1:Your all set on drop mechs and opto boards? You rock man. This is really coming together.. Hopefully freeplay40 changes his mind on that bowl cover for the crossover ramp. There is a quite a few out there that were damaged by the flasher bulb.
If I decide not to do the cover I will give you the one I have....It's not perfect but better than nothing!
2 months later
I've learned a lot over the years I've been restoring and repairing pinballs and have always been able to figure out my electrical problems. But each one still is a learning process. I am just amazed at the depth of Grumpy's knowledge! Glad you are here.
rotordave. Been following you for a long time. I'm just in awe of your System 11 collection...My favorites hands down!
Well done, sir.
1 month later
Quoted from Blackbeard:Pinwizkid: I see an imposter in that crowd....
It's just an adolescent System 11.
2 months later
Quoted from Tomass:Ok, I see why I ended up with 2n5550's and not 2n3904's. The 11c board has the 2n5550 transistor on q42-q49 but the 11a has the 2n3904 transistor in that same spot. Seems like it is the same but higher rated voltage, but that is only from reading other posts. I would think it will work since it is in the 11c board and perhaps even an upgrade? Am I wrong?
Thanks for any input
I think you are correct but the best guy to ask is Pinsider G-P-E (Great Plains Electronics)
Pm him. He'll know for sure.
Quoted from pb456:I've asked before about them, but I think FreePlay40 was too backed up - someday I hope to be able to get repro TMNT ramps...!
hehe...I'm always backed up! Working to complete the Pinbot/Jackbot pieces then will move on to Black Belt and The Transporter ramps. 
3 months later
Quoted from billsfanmd:Thx. Anyone have a Riverboat gambler manual pdf? Surprised I cant see one on line.
Not free, but available...
https://ksarcade.net/riverboat-gambler-manual-oem-issue.html
1 month later
Quoted from Chosen_S:I’m think of adding a headphone jack to each of my system 11 collection, anyone know where to start?
You could try reaching out to Pinsider DUMBASS who lives here in Seattle. He has quite a collection and I believe most if not all of his machines are fitted with headphone jacks.
3 months later
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:Fellow System 11 lovers, would you recommend warm or cool white LEDs for GI on F-14 Tomcat? I was leaning toward cool white with all the blue on the PF. What are your thoughts? Anyone have pics of either scheme?
Thanks,
RC
If your game is like most, the blue chevron plastics are faded. Blue LED's under those really make them look good.
3 years later
Quoted from desertT1:The spring steel hinge on my left ramp entrance broke, and probably had been broken since I got the game because it had a section of mylar over it holding the two pieces together, and I didn’t put it there. So I took the parts off, traced a new piece on spring steel, and made a new one.
Putting it all back together it isn’t dropping. I also replaced the “pin crank stud” that the ramp rides on because the old one was almost worn through.
Problem is, not it’s not dropping on its own. I made sure the path for the stud is smooth and the ramp flap isn’t touching anything, so it’s not stuck open.
The spring on the coil that raises the ramp seems very weak, like I wouldn’t expect it to be doing much of anything to help push the mech back to the lowered position. If I press the release latch from the top, the ramp flap just sits there.
The stud is also not stuck in the slot of the side wall it pokes through, I already messed with that a little.
One curious thing is it seems like the arm that swings back and forth to lift and lower the ramp goes pretty far forward. It’s almost straight up which would allow it to just sit there when the release latch activates. I didn’t do anything with that arm though when I fixed the flap, and it was working fine when the flap was broken. Just another observation.
[quoted image]
My experience with drop ramps is that the ramp must fall to the playfield under its own weight, and is lifted by the coil action. The ability for it to fall is determined by the flexibility of the spring steel hinge. My guess would be that the spring steel you used is too thick. When I make up lift ramps for Pinbot/Jackbot, I use .005" spring steel. With the lift ramp out of the game, you should be able to set the bracket that supports the lift ramp on a flat surface and the ramp should fall to the surface under its own weight.
Quoted from rotordave:Out of interest, what size/metal do you use for the ramp flaps?
I need to make some custom ones soon …
Cheers!
rd
I generally use .007" for ramp entrance flaps.
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