The pictures help a lot. Check for intermittant shorts:
Is the flat ground wire running behind the pot wires shorted to any of the wires/terminals?
Are the cable shield wire terminal and the red wire terminal shorted to the bracket?
Is the black wire terminal shorted to the flat ground strap?
What is the flat ground wire connected to on its end? The bracket?
If this was mine, I would resolder the three terminals.

Dennis

No problem the other tabs should hold it tight enough. I don't think it is worth the effort of replacing.
Mouser Electronics carries the plugs and jacks FYI.

http://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Headers-Wire-Housings/_/N-ay0lo/

Dennis

I'm not quite sure what you are looking for. I don't have a High Speed machine. I'm guessing that you are looking for a replacement header. From your picture it is a 4 pin X 1 row. You would need to measure the pitch between the pins. I'm guessing 3.96mm. Filtering the Mouser link, I get:

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/26-60-4040/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs%252bGHln7q6pm%252bS0pk2Wo0XxOtobA9PVs7w%3d

This would be just one example. It would need to be soldered to the board.

Dennis

I think there might be something called paint that might help your situation.

Mark has said he tried painting one of the clear ramps. However, he didn't report how successful it was. But with a clear or transparent ramp, you can do things like this:

Bay Door Open.jpg

I did this on my Space Station.

All 4 of my mods for the Space Station have been working without a glitch. They came out much better than I expected. The lit up toy space station was my first. It has been working for just over a year now. I thought I would have to polish the copper clad board. So far not needed.

Yes the ramp is only lit when the drop target (bay door open) is down. OFF when the bay door is closed. I did add an extra dimmer to the ramp LEDs. I have the brightness turned down from what the above picture shows.

I'm a little surprised that there weren't more comments about the sound controlled speaker LED mod. I really like them. And thanks Paul for your positive comments.

Dennis

pic2.jpg

Thanks for the compliment. I'll help with any questions you might have.
Dennis

Cold front??? What is a cold front?

Diodes are directional. Make sure you put the diodes in with the correct direction.

If you want to, you could disconnect the connectors coming from the transformer. Then from your diagram measure the AC voltage at 7P3.

7P3: (pins 1 & 2 are in parallel as are pins 3 & 4) measure either yellow to either yellow/white
pins 1-3 or 1-4 measure 5.9 AC volts
pins 2-3 or 2-4 measure 5.9 AC volts

I suspect there may be some kind of short in the GI circuit. Are the lights in "condition green" also dim?

On both of my machines, I added a 110 volt outlet that is switched on when the machine is turned on. There is a connector plug going to the main power transformer that has a jumper for 110 volts. I tied into this for the extra outlet. Then I plugged in a 12 volt wall wart for my external power supply. This isolates it from all the other power supplies in the machine. If you need less than 12 volts, just add a different wall wart. Just make sure the amp rating of the wall wart is larger than what the circuit requires. You should also wire the outlet correctly with respect to the hot and neutral.

Goodwill is a good source for cheap wall warts.

I needed 9 volts for my sound controlled speaker LED light mods. So I used the switched outlet with a 9 volt wall wart:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/sound-controlled-speaker-led-lights

I have also used a wall wart with selectable output volts to lower the light level of another LED mod.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/corvette-drag-strip-under-lighting

I replaced one on my Space Station CPU board that was used for a flasher. The SS schematic has a footnote that it uses special TIP 102s. The one that was burned out was not the "special" ones. I got the special ones from Marco:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/TIP102

Since replacing it I have not had any problems. The CPU board is double layered. Cut the legs off the bad transistor first and desolder them individually. I like to use a solder wick. Then carefully solder in the new one.
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-DSB

This is the company that supplies the relay boards for Marco:

http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/