I bought a replacement spin wheel motor a while back for my Bad Cats. The original motor had these wires: pin 1 red, pin 2 brown, pin 5 green and pin 6 black.

The new motor has different wire colors: red, white, yellow and blue. I don't want to send some high voltage up a 5-volt line, how do I tell which wire replaces which?

Also, the U25 CMOS RAM is a Sony chip labeled CXK5816PN. Is that the same as a 6116? I'm looking to install a NVRAM and I just want to make sure I've got everything straight. U23 is a 2116 although the schematic calls for a 2016 at U23. This is the original CPU although it is a re-import if that makes an difference.

TIA,

Al

Thanks, Ace, I appreciate that.

Now if I can just figure out this wheel motor, I'll be in business.

Looking for two of the Locking Cam Brackets shown in the upper drawing in the pic. Part numberr I need is: Wms. 01-9281, not the bracket in the lower drawing. Needed for Bad Cats and Jokerz! Thanks.

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Trumpy,

I'm going to guess that the ghostly face at the bottom of your Mousin' Around pic is your reflection, I hope.

Looking for two of the Locking Cam Brackets shown in the upper drawing in the pic bvelow. Part numberr I need is: Wms. 01-9281, not the bracket in the lower drawing. Needed for Bad Cats, Jokerz! and possibly Taxi. Thanks.

20180616_103351 (resized).jpg

A friend has a System 11a Fire! that has no sound. It has a 11581 sound board. Can I install it in my System 11b Bad Cats, also a 11581, to see if it is a sound board issue or a MPU issue? I don't know if they are populated the same.

Thanks in advance.

I Have a System 11b CPU/Driver board from my Bad Cats that worked great for ten years before some old alkaline battery damage took out the sound section. Trying to get an idea as to what this thing might be worth.

Thanks,

Alan

Definitely, I can see damage on U41 and SRC 2 and 5. This board should be repaired by an experienced tech. Need a value in it's current condition.

Sold, it's yours. I'll throw in the shipping as well. PM sent.
Thank you, I appreciate it.

Alan

Just picked up a High Speed and it boots right away into attract mode, but it won't start a game. The outhole kicker sends the two balls to the right end of the ball trough when you hit the Start button, but solenoid #2 (ball kicker coil) does not kick a ball into the shooter lane and the game just sits in attract mode. I'm also not sure that one has anything to do with the other.

I have voltage to the ball kicker coil, a good diode, tight wiring, it works in Test mode and grounding it's transistor, Q25, fires the coil. When both balls are to the right, next to the shooter lane, both switches show closed in the Switch Edges test. Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Alan

Three balls. Jesus.

As a dear friend of mine from West Virginia used to say, "Al, you are eat up with the dumbass".

That did the trick, thanks rotordave!

Now that I have gameplay, I've found that the left and right Hideout kickers and the left outhole kicker don't work. I can hear a click during Solenoid Test, but they don't fire. Heading down the homestretch here any more thoughts?

Thanks guys. I checked all those, still no luck. Pulled apart the under playfield connector and put it back together. That solved it. Must been a little corrosion in the joint. All three kickers work great now.

One more issue. The two right red flashers don't work, but their transistor does not flash them when grounded. I'll check continuity between the MPU connector and the lamps and resistor board and if that doesn't do it, I'll test and change the transistor. I'll let you know how I made out.

Yep, that did the trick, one bulb was bad, even though it tested good at first with my DMM.

The only thing I need now is one 7-digit alphanumeric display (C-10866), one does not work and has the "sparkles" in it that I understand makes it outgassed. If you have one of these for sale, please PM me.

For any of you in the Mid-Atlantic area, I'm putting this up for sale when I get another display. Here's what I've got:

Boardset is a 10, works great, never any alkaline damage. No burnt connectors or header pins.

Cabinet and head are beautiful, no fading. includes red rotating topper.

Backglass is a 10, gorgeous.

Playfield, well, it's a 6. Lots of wear spots, the graphics are worn off about one-third of the inserts. The three plastics that are usually broken in
the upper left hand area are broken or chipped, as well as the bottom of the left sling plastic. A new playfield would put this at or near collector quality.

However, the machine plays 100%, now all switches, solenoids and lamps work. BAA has a graphics set for $49, and with a little touchup, this would be a great game. I will gladly entertain offers, and I will publish a Pinside ad, hopefully in a few days.

A couple of questions on this High Speed I have.

Some of the graphics are worn off their inserts, how do I remove the rest of partially worn off graphics in order to install a new set?

There a couple of broken standup target faces. Will any type of rivet gun work with the small rivet and new target face from PBR, for example?

Thanks,

Alan

l

Found the real culprit: The Flipper Power Supply Board also powers the Hideout kickers and the left outlane kickback. When they all quit again, I took a closer look at this FPSB and found that the bottom connector actually wobbled up and down and had the worst case of cold solder joints I've ever seen. I removed the old solder, reflowed the header and it works great.

Motto: Always check for cold solder joints. Cures a lot of problems, easy to diagnose, quick to fix, cheap to fix.

I know this plastic gets broken a lot, but if you replaced yours with a whole new set or even if you still have your old broken plastic, I'd love to buy it.

Parts - Wanted

WTB: EATPM Blob plastic Archived

Wanted! - “I, too, am looking for the Blob plastic for an Elvira and the Party Monsters, EATPM. It is part number: 31-1006-2011-10-SP. Thanks for checking, Alan”

2019-08-20

Jarrettsville, MD

Alan_L

Wanted

Archived after: 13 days

Viewed: 111 times

Status: Unknown reason:

"EATPM Blob plastic" got deleted

Riverboat Gambler for sale in the Mid-Atlantic area

Machine - For Sale

Riverboat Gambler Archived

Used - shows wear but 100% working and clean - “For sale is a 1990 Williams "Riverboat Gambler" pinball machine. It is a family friendly game with a casino theme and catchy background music. A fun machine to play for kids and ad...”

2019-07-22

Jarrettsville, MD

Alan_L

2,000

Archived after: 23 days

Viewed: 190 times

Status: Didn't sell to Pinsider

Are you talking about the diamond shaped emblem that goes on the coin door of some games? There's no spot for that on EATPM. Where are you looking to put this thing?

I'm missing some sounds on my EATPM so I went into Sound Test and found that sounds 4, 5, 6 and 7 are silent. I haven't spent a lot of time working on sound boards (like, none), so I'm looking for a place to start. The machine powers up with one "bong" which indicates a working sound board.

TIA, Al

Any way to test these?

All five boards are original with matching serial numbers, but thanks for the pics.

On a System 9 Space Shuttle, should I install the yellow capacitors on the flippers to reduce spark? If so, Where do they connect? Thanks.

The left flipper on my Bad Cats isn't working. There is supposed to be a 200 volt, .01 mfd capacitor on the cabinet flipper switch that had a broken leg. Now I keep blowing the F6 fuse. Do I need this cap on the switch?

OK, that cap is there to cut down on the spark when the switch is closed. Found a loose wire, flipper fixed.

But now I have no speech. The music and sound effects are heard, but no speech. Sound Test runs without any speech. I have the 5 VDC, plus and minus 12 VDC and ground on the Sound Board (D-11581) connector J-3. There are two push button switches on the left side of the CPU. Pressing the upper one marked "Sound" does nothing. Pressing the lower one puts a message on the display that says "U10 PIA Failure". The machine boots and starts a game with no Credit Dot.

I know that the sound effects, speech and music travel back and forth between the CPU and the Sound Board. The U10 is a 6821, no socket.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Alan

Here's an update on my Bad Cats. I switched the sound board from my Riverboat Gambler into the Bad Cats which now plays the RG music but still no speech. I'm thinking it's a MPU problem. Someone suggested that there may be a problem with one of the Op-Amps, U4 and U5 (1458). Is there any way to test the U10, U4 and U5?

Thanks again

Here's some pics of the MPU. The U4 and U5 8-pin ICs are on on the left side above the two push button switches. No alkaline damage.

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20210627_133143 (resized).jpg

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I just noticed in the schematics that of the two op-amps, U4 and U5 (1458), U5 is a spare, not used. At this point, would it make sense to just go ahead and have someone replace the U10 PIA (6821) and the U4 op-amp and see what happens?

My System 9 Space Shuttle shows switch 40, right sling, as closed in switch test. I have lowered the two right sling switches from the playfield, there is no contact between the leaves, no solder bridge, and the diode and capacitor are wired exactly lie the left sling. The switch still shows closed.

I'm stumped here, any thoughts as to what to check next?

Thanks,

Alan

And where would I find this little devil?

Found it! Right where you guys said it was. Don't know how I missed it. Thanks.

Thanks for the above explanation, sir.

I need another explanation please. On some MPUs that I have run across, there is a part called an inductor. I always thought that an inductor was a guy who gave a speech welcoming someone into a Hall of Fame. What exactly does an inductor do? Thanks.

I hope the owner paid you to take it away.

Any thoughts on how much the average System 11 weighs? I have a Riverboat Gambler and a potential buyer wants to know the approximate weight.

Thanks,

Alan

I have a Bad Cats, serial #1315297, a re-import from West Germany. I’ve had it for many years, it is mostly working but now I want to bring it up to 100%. I wonder if you folks could help with a few suggestions as to how to deal with this problem.

1. In solenoid Test Mode, when testing Controlled Solenoid 9 (cat motor), the BAD CATS flashers flash and the cat motor does not spin.
Solenoid 10 (PF GI), nothing happens.
Solenoid 11 (BB GI), nothing happens.
Solenoid 12 (A/C relay) clicks correctly.
Solenoid 13 (Woman motor), cat motor spins, woman does not.
Solenoid14 (BAD CATS flashers), PF GI blinks
Solenoid 15 (Seafood wheel #2), nothing happens.
Solenoid 16, (Seafood wheel #1), nothing happens.

I have checked and re-checked all connectors and headers on the MPU, Aux. P/S and Interconnect
Boards countless times with no change. Gameplay reflects test mode.

I'm stumped. I have a good DMM and Logic Probe, no scope. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Alan

Hi Jmuckne, thanks for the reply.

All the wires that are in connectors match the manual. One strange thing I found is that Aux Dvr Bd 9-pin connector 5J2 has only four wires in the IDC housing: pins 5,6,8 and 9, for solenoids 9,10,11, and 12. The other slots 1,2,3 and 4, for solenoids 13,14,15 and 16 have no wire in them and appear to have never had a wire in them. These missing wires start at MPU 1J12 and by the manual are supposed to go to the Aux Dvr Bd 5J2 then to the Interconnect. But on my machine, they go from 1J12 directly to 2J11 and 12 on the Interconnect board. Does the ground for these wacky solenoids supposed to come from the Aux Dvr Bd? Could the wiring be different because it's a re-import? I cannot find a German language manual.

Thanks, will do.

I just came across a display board 12232-3 for a Riverboat Gambler, but I have no way to test it. I'm sure the answer is no, but I have to check: is my RG display backwards compatible with my Bad Cats?

I plugged it in my Bad Cats last night, and the lower display works just fine, but the upper display is stone dead. Now the upper display does not have the little sparkles in it that indicate an out-gassed display, so is there some way to check to see if it is really dead, or, like Lazarus, can be brought back from the dead? Thanks.