Got my #4 s11, a dp RG, setup and in line where it should be today.

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Sweet! Rg is a game I’d like to own. Very little time on one but seems like a fun one

It's very fun.

I’m having a weird issue on a roller games and I was going to see if anybody else has had that issue on it or maybe on another system 11.

What is happening is after I start a game the slam tilt is engaged when I press the start button for player two or when I enter any thing in the menu settings.

When I run a switch test, the start button is saying it’s a slam tilt even though slam tilt switch is fine.
Can the slam tilt be removed?

Thank you in advance for any help. I appreciate it.

Clip the cap on it if there is one. Post pictures of the mpu driver if not.

Sounds like a switch matrix issue. Possibly a shorted diode. Start button and slam tilt are in the same column. You’re looking for switches in the same rows as those two switches that are held down/closed. I’m not familiar with Rollergames, but for instance the Ball 3 Trough is in the same row as the Start button and is probably held down. There may be others, like if 5-bank A drop target or 3-bank R drop target or Ramp Diverter 2 switch are currently held down. The Start button, Slam Tilt, and any of the switch(es) in the same rows as those that are held closed, will form part of a rectangle in the matrix. The diodes on those three switches, plus the fourth switch that completes the rectangle, are suspect and should be removed and checked/replaced.

So for instance, the 3rd ball through switch. Go into switch matrix test, remove all the balls from the trough to release the switch, and try hitting Start. If it doesn’t trigger Slam Tilt with all the balls removed, then you might want to check your 3rd Ball Trough switch diode and switch 15 since it completes the rectangle (except there’s no switch there so don’t worry about it). Do the same thing with any switches that are held closed that are in the same rows as Start and Slam Tilt.

There is no capacitor on the start button. My f14 has them on the flipper switches but RG doesn’t.

Kyle is probably on the right path, I would follow his post.

Thank you Kyle you were right!
It turned out that one of my trough switches had the white orange wire on the wrong terminal when I would throw it into switch test mode it was not showing start button as credit button when I would push the start button. It was showing it as slam tilt once I switched it, I was able to fix that which actually fixed my Adjustment failure as well so thank you, Kyle and everybody else you are the man Kyle!!!

Hey All,

Weird issue with my Taxi. The 12v for the Marilyn and pinbot drops reads 10v on the plugs. The result is the drops don’t register. When I unplug one of the drops 12v plug, the other one works. The 12v test point on the power supply reads 11.6. Any ideas? Anyone know what plug supplies the 12v to the drops? Thanks!

Time to rebuild the power supply me thinks.

it’s almost 40 years old - caps are 30 years past replacement time.

rd

Thanks for the response! All caps on power supply are new. But maybe rebuild other components?

What’s your line voltage? (At the wall)?

12v should be more than 11.6.

Maybe look at all the connectors too. From the transformer onwards.

rd

Looking for two switches on the coin door of my High Speed, although they're the same on any System 11. They are the Up/Auto and Down/Manual button and the Advance button switches. The High Score reset button works fine. I have part numbers 27-1008 and 5641-09369-00 but cannot find stock at any of the well-known sources. I'd even take a couple of working used switches. Any help?

TIA

Alan

I have no experience with these people at all but I found this doing a google for your switches.

https://troxelrepair.com/product/williams-buttons/

Super! Thanks so much.

I bought a set of those for my Cyclone and they worked exactly as advertised. Good product, good experience.

I'm having an interesting problem in trying to get this F-14 Tomcat up and running and I appreciate any advice.

The game was working for the most part when I got it and I rebuilt the pop bumper and I noticed the new coil that I got from pinball resource the diode goes the opposite way from the original.(diode stripe was facing the red/white) but on the new coil, it was opposite.
I'm not sure if that was part of my issue.

This the main problem that I'm having.
Solenoid 17 which is the left kicker through the jet bumper number 20 keeps blowing a fuse. It's the playfield fuse which is a 2 1/2 amp. When it started happening what I would replace that fuse the left sling would lock up and fry the fuse. When I run a coil test 17 18 19 and 20 and 21 and 22 don't fire however the right flipper coil fires but then says it's the left slingshot.

Thank you again,
I do appreciate the wealth of knowledge here on pin side.

You likely wired the coil backwards and fried the transistor. In order to fix the SS circuit, the CPU board will need work and the pop bumper will need to be wired correctly. Remember, the banded side always faces the power wire (thicker than ground wire)

Thank you,
I think you're right. It was late when I was trying to figure this out so my brain wasn't working. I want to get a chance I'm gonna have to check those transistors.

The diode on the new pop coil is bad now too. It must be replaced before replacing the fuse. Also the pre driver and driver transistor need to be replaced before replacing the fuse.

I appreciate that insight. I will check those out.

Anyone know what diode is used on the flipper power board? Grand Lizard here. I'm getting resets off the flippers and I'm guessing it's a failing diode letting power surge back when the eos kills the high coils...seems to happen on either flipper so figured I'd start here.

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Don't see diodes in the schematics for the flipper power board. The diode on the coil should handle the protection.
The thing on the board looks like a jumper.

That is shown on the schematic.... W1

Its a jumper. If one flipper always causes the reset, its likely a broken diode on that coil. If both flipper do it, its broken diodes on both but more likely the flippers are dragging down your 5v power supply. What kind of shape is your power supply in? Has it been recapped and connectors replaced?

One for the Whirlwind fans …

When I got this pin, it had fire damage from the interconnect board catching fire. Burnt right in half! Caused extensive damage in the headbox, and the rest of the game had been well beaten too.

So this got the treatment -

- cabinet stripped to wood, new ply bottom installed and then sprayed in 2k all over.

- new CPR playfield. I much prefer original ones but this one had flipper drag wear and was overall pretty beaten.

- saved the original ramps, but got new plastics, topper, and everything else.

- every mech rebuilt

Lots of hours went into this one, but she’s a keeper!

rd
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I live very close to you if you’re in Jeffersonville and can help you diagnose if the above suggestions don’t give any results. Reach out and let me know if you are unable to fix. I have many games from this area and have made many repairs on them when acquiring them.

If anyone has a 7 Digit Alphanumeric display (C-10866 or 5769-10874-00), I have a High Speed that is currently only High...