(Topic ID: 43458)

System 11 Club !

By mof

11 years ago


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There are 4,650 posts in this topic. You are on page 93 of 93.
#4601 79 days ago

Removed the wireform.
First impressions
I'm in love again. I absolutely love how the ball feeds now! Sometimes it goes to the right inlane, sometimes hits the top of the sling and goes left flipper (for a nice dead bounce), and sometimes it still feeds the right flipper for a nice catch.

If a ball comes via the WAR lanes it drops and heads left. Sometimes a little nudge helps it avoid the outlane but most of the time it'd a safe feed.
I feel like magna save has become more important and more fun with this modification. It really helps control the ball should it veer to the outlane, and even more useful during multiball

So to compensate for the different feeds I made relighting magna save and kickback easier, which means now I'm actually trying to relight them, as magna save is much more important to control the ball, especially in multiball.

I noticed one flaw with multiball, if you get a jackpot, the lone ball is released so fast it can fire directly into the outlane.

Screenshot_20240429_200006_Photos (resized).jpgScreenshot_20240429_200006_Photos (resized).jpg
IMG-20240429-WA0023 (resized).jpgIMG-20240429-WA0023 (resized).jpg

But, I came up with another solution (above) which stops this and also makes the multiball feed better! I need to get a proper post to make it look better but it works for now with spares I had. There's two pics because I tried different parts I had.
Now when multiball starts some balls go via right inlane, and some bounce over to the flippers. It's fantastic and almost easier to manage than 3 heading straight to the right flipper.

So if you're getting tired of bk2k as you always safely catch the ball and go back up top I'd reccomend trying this.
Still the aim is to go up top, but you get the ball on the left flipper so much more, meaning you have to deal with dead bouncing, post transfers, using the u turn, or going via the spin VUK to get the ball where you want.

#4602 78 days ago

Hi group!

A problem with the Space Station at my coworking space.

When you turn the machine on, the space station divertor turns for a while and then stops.

When you start a game, it starts turning continuously and doesn't stop.

It used to work fine until a few weeks ago. Then it started exposing this behaviour. First it just took a while for the divertor to find its position. Now it doesn't find its position at all anymore.

Does anybody know where I should start looking?

#4603 78 days ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Hi group!
A problem with the Space Station at my coworking space.
When you turn the machine on, the space station divertor turns for a while and then stops.
When you start a game, it starts turning continuously and doesn't stop.
It used to work fine until a few weeks ago. Then it started exposing this behaviour. First it just took a while for the divertor to find its position. Now it doesn't find its position at all anymore.
Does anybody know where I should start looking?

Opto board underneath the station. Could be dirty or failed optos.

#4604 78 days ago

Hope someone can point me in the right direction here:

I've got an F-14 that was fully working except the displays. This ended up being acid damage on the MPU - I happen to have another F-14 next to it that I can swap boards, parts with. I swapped in a known working MPU and power supply and now I have no GI except the backbox and no coils including flippers. It will not start a game - all fuses are good, wiring is correct, and all controlled lamps are working. I swapped the boards back and installed a new Rottendog MPU and still get the same results.

Where is the best place to start?

#4605 78 days ago
Quoted from ChrisPINk25:

Opto board underneath the station. Could be dirty or failed optos.

Thank you! Can you tell me how I get to this opto board?

#4606 78 days ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Thank you! Can you tell me how I get to this opto board?

hi, Start with the manual:

http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/2261/Williams_1987_Space_Station_Operations_Manual_and_Test_Procedures.pdf

Also, you can search and add pinside on any search engine to find relevant threads. Posting in the space station club may also help:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-station-club-members-only/

#4607 75 days ago
Quoted from WMSpin:

Hope someone can point me in the right direction here:
I've got an F-14 that was fully working except the displays. This ended up being acid damage on the MPU - I happen to have another F-14 next to it that I can swap boards, parts with. I swapped in a known working MPU and power supply and now I have no GI except the backbox and no coils including flippers. It will not start a game - all fuses are good, wiring is correct, and all controlled lamps are working. I swapped the boards back and installed a new Rottendog MPU and still get the same results.
Where is the best place to start?

Did you install 3J3 off by one pin on the power supply?

2 weeks later
#4608 55 days ago

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1 week later
#4609 48 days ago

Of all my system-11 games, Space Station remains my favorite high score sequence. Great music; great light show; great display animations.

#4610 48 days ago

Space Station, to me, seems to be the most complete package of the system 11s.

The theme of space is done perfectly. Whimsical music. Zero inlanes means more zinging around of the ball (feels like space). The call outs. The backglass. The docking of balls. It's just done so so well.

And i have a helleva time getting the jackpot.

#4611 47 days ago

Space Station is a keeper for me. I like Taxi a bunch too. Fun call outs and shots and challenging.

#4612 47 days ago

The music sequencing of Space Station and Swords of Fury by Brian Schmidt is incredible. I regret letting my SoF go and hope to get one of those two in the game room next. I love System 11s. Lionman.

Edit, just found this video with Brian running through these compositions. Very cool.

#4613 47 days ago
Quoted from tylery85:

The music sequencing of Space Station and Swords of Fury by Brian Schmidt is incredible. I regret letting my SoF go and hope to get one of those two in the game room next. I love System 11s. Lionman.
Edit, just found this video with Brian running through these compositions. Very cool.

If you like those two soundtracks (and rightly so), definitely check out Banzai Run's soundtrack as well. It has a similar amazing buildup.

1 week later
#4614 37 days ago

Working in the back of my PinBot yesterday and realized most of the boards are only held in with a couple of screws. I know the screws are also the ground points on the boards so I want to replace the ones that are missing. Anyone know what size machine screws I need to get?

#4615 37 days ago

I just recently got an education on this and most of it I've lost already but my recollection is they are a specific type of screw and are called SEMS but the size escapes me now, I - just - bought a giant sack of them too. DumbAss or someone can tell you for sure.

#4616 37 days ago

Believe #8 SEMS

#4617 37 days ago

Or that dmacy fella, he's pretty sharp too I hear.

#4618 36 days ago

You can sometimes find board screws inside the cab back in the end.

#4619 30 days ago

Options for shaker motors in system 11 games? Looks like PinShaker no longer offers their system 9/11 kit. Any other options available? Google doesn't seem to think so, but Google has been wrong in the past.

#4620 30 days ago

I've been told they are no longer in business.

Quoted from alexorear:Options for shaker motors in system 11 games? Looks like PinShaker no longer offers their system 9/11 kit. Any other options available? Google doesn't seem to think so, but Google has been wrong in the past.

#4621 27 days ago

I haven't had a system 11 machine pass through my workshop in what seems like forever so I was really excited to have a Jokerz drop by last week for a couple of repairs. I used to own one of these years ago and always regretted letting it go, such a fun game especially with a group of you playing, that last ball sure is important! Managed to get enough time to film a Tutorial & Gameplay video before delivering it back to its home.

#4622 26 days ago

Sweet tutorial.

I’ve yet to own a jokerz. Def on my list.

1 week later
#4623 17 days ago

Had an extended family BBQ party tonight and the pinball machines were on for about 7 hours. When turning the machines off tonight, I discovered that the Player 4 display on my Space Station is dead. I tried reseating the connectors and ribbon cable which didn’t do anything to help.

#4624 15 days ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Had an extended family BBQ party tonight and the pinball machines were on for about 7 hours. When turning the machines off tonight, I discovered that the Player 4 display on my Space Station is dead. I tried reseating the connectors and ribbon cable which didn’t do anything to help.

Swap around the P3 and P4 displays.

If it’s still dead in P3, it’s probably done its dash. It happens, it’s 40 years old now.

If it works in P3 then somethings up with your display board or wiring to P4.

Edit - I had Space Shuttle on my mind - the curse of having too many pins and being old. Lol. Bit hard to swap around the displays on Space Station without a lot of soldering! Play around with the ribbon cables, if it doesn’t work, depending on your level of tech ability you can play with the board, or just get a new LED one. Keep the old one for spares.

rd

#4625 15 days ago

If you are in need of a display or board, consider xpinpinball.net.

I use there stuff in my high speed and it works and looks great.

#4626 15 days ago

Thanks guys, I'll start digging into it tonight after work.

#4627 14 days ago

wolffpac tech display kits are probably the most cost effective solution if you need to start replacing displays. You'd have to build the kit out.

https://www.wolffpactech.com/

If you need help, I know someone local who can help you (come to house to assist).

#4628 14 days ago

I never liked the looks of the digits used on Wolfpack displays.

#4629 14 days ago

Yeah, same here. Wolffpac do work, but they are kind of the bargain basement option. The digits are smaller then you'd expect.

#4630 14 days ago

https://xpinpinball.net/
pinside.ad8ec44311d4046841d3cf742e556944157b3ceb (resized).jpgpinside.ad8ec44311d4046841d3cf742e556944157b3ceb (resized).jpg

#4631 14 days ago

I have xpin in space station and the wolffpac in grand lizard and the xpin just isn’t worth the price. Grand Lizard Wolffpac looks the same as the xpin.

#4632 14 days ago

but it's not the same......thanks XPinPinball for supporting the community.

Quoted from justler:I have xpin in space station and the wolffpac in grand lizard and the xpin just isn’t worth the price. Grand Lizard Wolffpac looks the same as the xpin.

#4633 14 days ago

All I can say is if you get a new display for ss, GET BLUE. It looks amazing.

#4634 14 days ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

All I can say is if you get a new display for ss, GET BLUE. It looks amazing.

I agree!

#4635 13 days ago

I re-flowed the solder and pins on the display board. I don’t see how to swap displays to see if that resolves anything. It looks like 1 big circuit board and the 4 displays are soldered to it, right?

#4636 13 days ago
Quoted from tylery85:

The music sequencing of Space Station and Swords of Fury by Brian Schmidt is incredible. I regret letting my SoF go and hope to get one of those two in the game room next. I love System 11s. Lionman.
Edit, just found this video with Brian running through these compositions. Very cool.

Thanks for sharing! I am picking up SOF this weekend and can’t wait. Never was able to fully enjoy the music while playing on location but when listening to in sellers home, knew I had to have it.

Played space station a lot growing up but not SOF. Own f-14 and just sold high speed and getAway and looking at couple for system 11’s

#4637 13 days ago
Quoted from JWilberdog:

Thanks for sharing! I am picking up SOF this weekend and can’t wait. Never was able to fully enjoy the music while playing on location but when listening to in sellers home, knew I had to have it.
Played space station and loved music a lot growing up but not SOF. Own f-14 and just sold high speed and getAway and looking at couple for system 11’s

#4638 13 days ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

I re-flowed the solder and pins on the display board. I don’t see how to swap displays to see if that resolves anything. It looks like 1 big circuit board and the 4 displays are soldered to it, right?

Yeah — see the update I made to my post above.

rd

#4639 13 days ago

I also flipped the one ribbon cable around too.

#4640 13 days ago
Quoted from justler:

Grand Lizard Wolffpac looks the same as the xpin.

I have used both myself. I went with a Wolffpac because I was short on money and figured since this was going to be a flip game that would be okay. Let's just say that after the 2+hrs of soldering (definitely not my thing) my time was worth more than just soldering. If soldering is your thing, then heck, take the time and learn something, but I prefer playing the game than building the board. Since then, it has been XPin all the way.

#4641 9 days ago

hey sys 11 gurus...Got a issue poping up on my williams F-14. First off i started getting random games just shutting down...no match, just game over. It got progressively worse to the point of ending a game soon as you pressed the start button.

I reseated all the connections on the power supply board and the power in on the main board. That seemed to solve that. However within a day i noticed the LED replacement displays getting dim and pulsating. At the same time the Control lighting on the PF were doing the same thing...while the GI lights seemed fine.

I recently replaced the standard 555 in the lone pop bumper with a led ring which helped light that area up some. ...but while all the other lighting issues were going on that ring was noticeably dimmer too.

While all this was going on...my sounds volume got lower and lower. Eventually after watching this happening for 2-3 hours (on location) i cut it off and rebooted. Everything came back bright and sounds came back at normal vol levels.

Never the less this is a issue thats not going away. I have not had a chance to ck voltages but im assuming im probably need of a power supply rebuild or replace.

Whats yalls opinions??.....please tell.

Thanks

#4642 9 days ago
Quoted from pevo:

have not had a chance to ck voltages but im assuming im probably need of a power supply rebuild or replace.

this is where i'd look first as well

#4643 9 days ago

On my Rollergames I had this happen and I was wondering if anybody might know what it is from.

I had an interesting thing happen after I adjusted some settings. I adjusted some settings and did a custom message and when I went to exit out of programming, everything went blank and the only thing that will light up now are the G.I. lights.
I’m not sure if this has been covered in this forum yet.
When I turn it off and back on the display shows some weird scrambled characters and then goes blank and everything’s unresponsive.

Thank you in advance.

#4644 9 days ago

Maybe try a different ram chip if you have one on hand?
Or pull the batteries to clear it?

#4645 9 days ago

I will have to try to pull the batteries when I get back.
Thank you

#4646 9 days ago

Still looking at the dead player 4 display on my Space Station. Looking at the display board and schematics, the J5 blue wires control the player 4 display. Looks like the blue wires go up to 1J3 on the CPU board. Am I following this correctly?

Before abandoning the original plasma displays, I want to check that the problem can’t be easily fixed.

How’s the best way to check that the display is receiving the power and information? Guess I will start with checking continuity from 1J3 on the CPU to J5 on the display board. Any other tips?

IMG_6262 (resized).jpegIMG_6262 (resized).jpegIMG_6265 (resized).jpegIMG_6265 (resized).jpeg
#4647 9 days ago
Quoted from DanMarino:

Guess I will start with checking continuity from 1J3 on the CPU to J5 on the display board.

Just checked the continuity between 1J3 on the CPU and J5 on the display board. All checked good there with the 8 wires.

1 week later
#4648 26 hours ago

What is a IRQ failure error code on a sys 11 MPU set? Got this the other day when apparently i was having some voltage issues as in the Game volume was getting lower on its own and my LED replacement displays were dim but the correct current seemed to scroll across the displays rolling from right to left....correctly lighting the individual segments as it went across.

This is on a williams f-14. When i cut the pin off & on, the displays and volume came up right but apparently the 2.5amp slo blow that powers the dirverters along with a number of other solenoids Blew. i thing it was blown before i reset it.

Ive since recapped the power supply but have not had a chance to physically inspect each solenoid to see what may have lead to this. A quick look at the MPU showed nothing burned nor did i smell any burnt Tips or anything else.

It acts normal now when its just on...but like i said all the kickouts and dirverters are dead...so the games doing crazy chit if you start a game as it is now.

After inspecting for the obvious issues ill re-fuse it and see what happens.

Ant ideas? I have a new RD9211 i can put in it but i want to make sure its not something under the PF causing this and then screwing up the RD too.

#4649 25 hours ago
Quoted from pevo:

What is a IRQ failure error code on a sys 11 MPU set? Got this the other day when apparently i was having some voltage issues as in the Game volume was getting lower on its own and my LED replacement displays were dim but the correct current seemed to scroll across the displays rolling from right to left....correctly lighting the individual segments as it went across.
This is on a williams f-14. When i cut the pin off & on, the displays and volume came up right but apparently the 2.5amp slo blow that powers the dirverters along with a number of other solenoids Blew. i thing it was blown before i reset it.
Ive since recapped the power supply but have not had a chance to physically inspect each solenoid to see what may have lead to this. A quick look at the MPU showed nothing burned nor did i smell any burnt Tips or anything else.
It acts normal now when its just on...but like i said all the kickouts and dirverters are dead...so the games doing crazy chit if you start a game as it is now.
After inspecting for the obvious issues ill re-fuse it and see what happens.
Ant ideas? I have a new RD9211 i can put in it but i want to make sure its not something under the PF causing this and then screwing up the RD too.

Did you test the power supply after re-capping? Unplug all output voltages, and leave only the 2 block connectors on the bottom (you can also leave the yellow GI input along with the connector directly to its left in as they will have no bearing on the tests. This will isolate the power supply from the playfield and other boards.

Take your multimeter, set to DC voltage with game on. Place the red probe on test point 1 located near the top of the power supply. This will simply be a pad with a 1 pointing to 2 different spots. Either will work. Place the black probe on a ground. Easiest is usually the ground strap. What are your readings? Post the results here they should be:

TP1 Regulated 5v. The voltage must be very close to 5 exactly.
TP2 ground: 0v
TP3 unregulated 12v: in the vicinity of 12, can be slightly higher or lower
TP4 unregulated -12v: in the vicinity of -12v, can be slightly higher or lower

#4650 20 hours ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Did you test the power supply after re-capping? Unplug all output voltages, and leave only the 2 block connectors on the bottom (you can also leave the yellow GI input along with the connector directly to its left in as they will have no bearing on the tests. This will isolate the power supply from the playfield and other boards.
Take your multimeter, set to DC voltage with game on. Place the red probe on test point 1 located near the top of the power supply. This will simply be a pad with a 1 pointing to 2 different spots. Either will work. Place the black probe on a ground. Easiest is usually the ground strap. What are your readings? Post the results here they should be:
TP1 Regulated 5v. The voltage must be very close to 5 exactly.
TP2 ground: 0v
TP3 unregulated 12v: in the vicinity of 12, can be slightly higher or lower
TP4 unregulated -12v: in the vicinity of -12v, can be slightly higher or lower

Cked all the solonids that were dead ( powered by that 2.5amp fuse)...all looked good, replaced fuse and ran a couple of games...all seems to be working fine for now. When I get a chance I'll go thru all the tests to confirm. But all seems fine for now

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