(Topic ID: 43458)

System 11 Club !

By mof

11 years ago


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  • 4,650 posts
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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by pevo
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There are 4,650 posts in this topic. You are on page 85 of 93.
#4201 1 year ago

Could also use some pictures of the normal opto boards for drops.

Thanks.

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#4202 1 year ago

I know reimports are a thing and all that, but cmon, molex connectors and header pins can't be THAT hard to find.

#4203 1 year ago
Quoted from radial_head:

I know reimports are a thing and all that, but cmon, molex connectors and header pins can't be THAT hard to find.

I'm not talking about hard to find I'm talking about knowing the common name to order the correct parts like the jumper wires on the interconnect board.
Good luck to find jumper wires on EU pinball shops.
It will not give you the result that I need on the interconnect board.

#4204 1 year ago
Quoted from Toine79:

I'm not talking about hard to find I'm talking about knowing the common name to order the correct parts like the jumper wires on the interconnect board.
Good luck to find jumper wires on EU pinball shops.
It will not give you the result that I need on the interconnect board.

Jumper wires are just that - wires.
If you do not want to use just any plain wire you might have lying around, you can use what is called "0 ohm resistors" - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zero-ohm_link
There is no difference between the two for this application.
You can order them from any electronics website - Digikey, Mouser, RS online etc.

You can use Molex headers from the CH3.96/KK396 series - they come in different lengths.
Just search for CH3.96/KK396 on for example Aliexpress, Digikey, Mouser, Pinballcenter etc.

#4205 1 year ago
Quoted from Toine79:

I'm not talking about hard to find I'm talking about knowing the common name to order the correct parts like the jumper wires on the interconnect board.

Oh no, I meant the person who originally did that direct solder job, likely eons ago.

#4206 1 year ago

I recently purchased an Elvira and the party Monsters. I have never owned a system 11 machine before. So my issue is. Sometimes when I turn the machine on. I get a high pitched squeal and the machine doesn’t boot. I turn it off and on the machine boots just fine. No clue? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

#4207 1 year ago

Your power supply board is likely due for rebuild

#4208 1 year ago

wrong thread lol

#4209 1 year ago

"The storm is coming!"............

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#4210 12 months ago

Could I use the 5% instead of the 10% on the interconnect board? Thanks

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#4211 12 months ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Could I use the 5% instead of the 10% on the interconnect board? Thanks
[quoted image]

Yes, 5% tolerance is better than 10% usually.
In this case I don't think it would make much difference anyways, but yes - 5% is ok.

#4212 12 months ago

Just to be 100% sure that I buy the correct one.

Can I use this as a jumper wire on the interconnect board as a jumper?

https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/electronics-parts/resistors/9017/resistor-0-ohm-0.25w

Thanks.

14
#4213 12 months ago

Added a Diamond Plate Whirlwind today!
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#4214 12 months ago

Whirlwind... probably my favorite System 11 game

#4215 12 months ago
Quoted from Kerry_Richard:

Whirlwind... probably my favorite System 11 game

Mine too. Waiting to get my hands on one. My grail game. Timing was just never right…when I was in the market during Covid, couldn’t find a machine. Now that I’m trying to save and put some money away after some bigger expenses over the last year or so, they pop up all the time now. Funny how it works…lol.

#4216 12 months ago

I traded my whirlwind back to my friend that sold it to me.
Was a really fair deal when i bought it, a reasonable deal to give it back (typically we offer games back to each other).
But damn, out of all the pins i sold or traded, it may be the only one i wish i still had.

#4217 12 months ago

I had no clue where the idea or inspiration for Rollergames came from until I recently saw the American Gladiators documentary. Rollergames was a new tv show developed for 1990 with the same logo, music and concept. But the show, for all its hype, didn’t make it. But the pinball machine lives on!

#4218 12 months ago

Could somebody post me his pictures of the 3 bank drop targets in a Jokerz pinball machine please?

Mine looks like this and I would like to see the correct wiring and the correct install of the headers into the opto board. Thanks

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#4219 12 months ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Mine looks like this and I would like to see the correct wiring and the correct install of the headers into the opto board.

I don't understand why you need a picture. The correct wires are right there... just buy female+male 4 pin molex connectors and female+male 7 pin connectors and pin each wire one at a time. Or, save some money and just buy the 20 pin ones and cut your own with a dremel to whatever size you need.

#4220 11 months ago

posted this in the high speed thread but thought I might try here as well. Tonight midgame the eject hole ran 4 straight eject attempts while the ball was in play. Since then this behavior happens when the machine is turned on and during a game the eject hole will not score, advance the stoplight, or kick the ball out immediately. After about 20 seconds it kicks the ball out like a lost ball function.

Any thoughts on what to try?

#4221 11 months ago
Quoted from TonyP66:

posted this in the high speed thread but thought I might try here as well. Tonight midgame the eject hole ran 4 straight eject attempts while the ball was in play. Since then this behavior happens when the machine is turned on and during a game the eject hole will not score, advance the stoplight, or kick the ball out immediately. After about 20 seconds it kicks the ball out like a lost ball function.
Any thoughts on what to try?

Maybe the switch in the hole is stuck "on" and needs adjustment or replacing?

#4222 11 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

I don't understand why you need a picture. The correct wires are right there... just buy female+male 4 pin molex connectors and female+male 7 pin connectors and pin each wire one at a time. Or, save some money and just buy the 20 pin ones and cut your own with a dremel to whatever size you need.

Because I want to see how the wires are placed in the connector. I only see 2 or more wires soldered in 1 point.
I think it is not possible to put 2 wires in 1 IDC connector?

#4223 11 months ago
Quoted from Toine79:

I think it is not possible to put 2 wires in 1 IDC connector?

Yeah … it’s a continuous wire (not cut)

It’s inserted once then continues to another destination.

Sometimes they loop back to another connector.

If you look at your yellow GI wires on the interconnect board, you can see an example of that.

I’d send you a picture of my Jokerz but I’m nowhere near it for a week.

rd

#4224 11 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Yeah … it’s a continuous wire (not cut)
It’s inserted once then continues to another destination.
Sometimes they loop back to another connector.
If you look at your yellow GI wires on the interconnect board, you can see an example of that.
I’d send you a picture of my Jokerz but I’m nowhere near it for a week.
rd

Yup, i've had they are always a mess on the interconnect board.
I'd be curious on how you guys fix it when the wires are too burnt to pass through, besides it's hard to recommend using another IDC connector after the first one burnt up.
In the past i've soldered and heat shrunk the 2 wires (well two wires after it got destroyed by heat and split into two) into one single wire then crimped on a single lead.
That's what i have done, but i don't know the proper fix to avoid the IDC connector.

#4225 11 months ago
Quoted from Toine79:

Because I want to see how the wires are placed in the connector. I only see 2 or more wires soldered in 1 point.
I think it is not possible to put 2 wires in 1 IDC connector?

Your first mistake is attempting to use IDC connectors. Pinball industry used them because they were fast to assemble and cheap, NOT because they were reliable. Absolute pieces of shit.

When two wires are present, jam both wires into each Trifurcon pin, crimp it, and just use a molex type connector https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CF15612

#4226 11 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Your first mistake is attempting to use IDC connectors. Pinball industry used them because they were fast to assemble and cheap, NOT because they were reliable. Absolute pieces of shit.
When two wires are present, jam both wires into each Trifurcon pin, crimp it, and just use a molex type connector https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/CF15612

I've not tried to put two wires into one pin, i will next time, just didn't seem like they would fit.

#4227 11 months ago
Quoted from jcar302:

I've not tried to put two wires into one pin, i will next time, just didn't seem like they would fit.

It’s easy, twist the wires together and pinch the insulation side of the terminal before you place the terminal in your crimper if you have a ratcheting crimper. If you don’t have a ratcheting crimper, I highly recommend buying one, especially if you are going to be doing a lot of these.

#4228 11 months ago
Quoted from jcar302:

I've not tried to put two wires into one pin, i will next time, just didn't seem like they would fit.

They will. You can even get three into one pin if you trim a few strands off of each wire.

#4229 11 months ago

Thanks, I do use a ratcheting crimper.

#4230 11 months ago
Quoted from snyper2099:They will. You can even get three into one pin if you trim a few strands off of each wire.

Do you solder the wires together before crimping?

#4231 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Do you solder the wires together before crimping?

I have thought about soldering, but ended up never trying it because two wires seem to crimp in there fine.

#4232 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Do you solder the wires together before crimping?

I have occasionally used solder after but not before.

#4233 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Do you solder the wires together before crimping?

No need to do that. They will crimp in and make an air-tight joint just fine.

#4234 11 months ago

Sign me Up! System 11 (nothing) is the best

#4235 11 months ago

Brought another home today!

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#4236 11 months ago

Rock, Rock rocking rollergames...

#4237 11 months ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

Brought another home today!
[quoted image]

Congrats! I’m jealous! I’ve been looking for the perfect Rollergames for my level of project readiness for a while now, hoping to find one within a reasonable distance of me this year.

#4238 11 months ago

I just bought a Whirlwind and then a diamond plate Rollergames pops up 2 hours from me.........trying to figure out a way to swing this one.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Pinball.for.Sale.Classifieds/posts/2544404462390767/?comment_id=2544625789035301&notif_id=1690566091873944&notif_t=feedback_reaction_generic&ref=notif

Chris

#4239 11 months ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

Congrats! I’m jealous! I’ve been looking for the perfect Rollergames for my level of project readiness for a while now, hoping to find one within a reasonable distance of me this year.

I drove 14 hours round trip to get it! It’s mostly working. Has a couple of flaky switches. Other than that it’s dirty and needs shopped and updated to LED

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#4240 11 months ago

Hello
Please can someone help.
I have a Diner pinball, ok when I hit all the drop targets on serving a customer some have popped up again ( when as I understand it should have stayed down) so when I move to the new/next customer I have some stand ups up and some down instead of all fully up. ???
Any advice on where to start fault finding with this ???

Thankyou in advance

#4241 11 months ago

Do you guys have a good tool/way of removing twist nuts? I have snapped a couple bolts during my WW shop.

#4242 11 months ago

On the Rollergames I picked up recently, the double diverter mechanism was frozen, almost like it had a coil that overheated at some point. Almost impossible to move the mechanism. To my surprise, I found no replaced or damaged transistors and no sign of damage to the coil when I took the mechanism out. Next step I undid the linkage that moves both diverters together. Now o found that both of them are still very hard to turn. I can’t see anything out of order with it. All I can think of is someone tried to use lubricant at some point and now it’s basically concrete. Luckily I had a second trashed ramp I was able to steal the diverter mech off that and it’s working now, but was wondering if there is any chance of salvaging the second one? I tried to figure out how to get it apart but I can’t seem to get the crank arms off to remove the shaft to inspect it.

#4243 11 months ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Do you guys have a good tool/way of removing twist nuts? I have snapped a couple bolts during my WW shop.

Maybe it's early, but what do you mean by "twist nuts"? On many System 11 machines I have had many of the bolts for the playfield parts had loc-tite on them and many snapped and needed to be replaced. I was told that you can heat up the bolt from the bottom with a soldering iron and that helps to "loosen" the loc-tite, but I didn't have much luck with that personally.

Chris

#4244 11 months ago
Quoted from SilverUnicorn:

Maybe it's early, but what do you mean by "twist nuts"? On many System 11 machines I have had many of the bolts for the playfield parts had loc-tite on them and many snapped and needed to be replaced. I was told that you can heat up the bolt from the bottom with a soldering iron and that helps to "loosen" the loc-tite, but I didn't have much luck with that personally.
Chris

I ended up getting this one out with pliers but there must be an easier way. I’m seeing them called t-nuts or 3 prong nuts, but I’m pretty sure my hardware store called them twist nuts. Anyhow, there was no need to loctite the post bolts into them, complete overkill and very annoying for removal.

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#4245 11 months ago

I generally replace all T nuts on a playfield swap but obviously not necessary on repair/shop job. You can also run a small 3/8" #6 hex screw next to the T nut to hold it in place or keep from dropping/spinning when removing posts. They did this a lot from the factory especially on lane guides.

#4246 11 months ago

Unfortunately, when you shop out a SYS11, you have to treat these (and their posts) as disposable.

About half of them are glued together with the strongest locktite this side of the space program lol

I put my battery screwdriver on the top of them - if the t-nut spins then you’ve just got to cut the top off the post, and push the post and t-nut back down through the hole.

New t-nuts and posts are reasonably cheap at Pinball Life. I keep a pile of each on hand.

rd

#4247 11 months ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Unfortunately, when you shop out a SYS11, you have to treat these (and their posts) as disposable.
About half of them are glued together with the strongest locktite this side of the space program lol
I put my battery screwdriver on the top of them - if the t-nut spins then you’ve just got to cut the top off the post, and push the post and t-nut back down through the hole.
New t-nuts and posts are reasonably cheap at Pinball Life. I keep a pile of each on hand.
rd

That’s what I do. Easier to just plan to replace them all.

1 week later
#4248 11 months ago

Picked up a highspeed yesterday that fell out of a truck 10 years ago and sat ever since, full of rats nests with a couple dead rats in it

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#4249 11 months ago

Tragic

#4250 11 months ago
Quoted from Crimcyan:

Picked up a highspeed yesterday that fell out of a truck 10 years ago and sat ever since, full of rats nests with a couple dead rats in it

I hope the owner paid you to take it away.

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