That big guns looks great! I found it the easiest to shop of any system 11 yet. And it was kinda fun i suppose!

GLWTS!

A wall of SYS11s for ya ….

rd

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Amazing collection Roto.

I've played pretty much all the system 11s.

RK is grown on me more than I care to let on. I find it such a shooter's pin. Lotta risk/reward as well. And fighting the road kings over and over in a single game just never gets tiring for some reason. Just curious how you like RKs. I don't think i'd like it as much as I have. I actually put it ahead of HS.

Road Kings is underrated.

I haven’t played any other ones (never seen another one here in NZ) but my one is an ass kicker. Anything down the right side is a side drain for sure. Actually I have played another one - it knocked me out of the top 4 at Pinmasters in Dallas 2016/17ish. Doooooh.

That goes back to my question - are Mark Ritchies games better than Steves? There’s a lot of reasons to say “yes”.

rd

FT is all you need to answer that question, imo.

Of course not, they both have made very good games that have stood the test of time.

sign me up!

I am making a printing screen, and am hoping someone has an older Sys11 machine that has the 1st gen backbox text that can get a measurement for me. I only need the measurement of the very top of the text (the tip of the caution triangle) to the very bottom text as shown with the red line. It will help me with the scale of the screen with that single measurement.

There are two different font styles Williams used, and I am looking for a measurement for the older Sys11 backbox text on the left. The image on the right is of the newer Sys11 backbox text that I already have a measurement of. You can more easily tell the difference in the fourth sentence down as it says "position backbox bolts" instead of "backbox bolts and washers."

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Just measured my SoF which has the matching copy, and it's 11 13/16 inches outer top to outer bottom.

sign me up!

I would really love to join. this club i currently have a roller games, and just got a taxi that I am working on and need a little help . Thank you!

That will help me a bunch. Thank you.

I'd say you're in! LOL

So many good System 11 titles!

Chris

Thank you! Yes I agree. to me the perfect balance modern mechanism and playstyle with simple more arcade style rule sets.

Looking forward to getting my "new" Taxi playing fast and tight

thought I might post this here, for all the System 11 wisdom which might help
Earthshaker strange noise on power on. As mentioned, new Rottendog MPU, New Power Board, New Interconnect Board, New Aux Power Board...
New Display, Original Sound Board..
Machine's gameplay and sound all work great. No other machine I've worked on this sound (as something "bad" is happening).
Thank you for your advice and help

My guess (and it’s a guess) is old caps in your power supply.

When you turned it on the second time maybe the caps still had some charge in them … hence no noise.

When the -12v isn’t good from the power supply, the sound board has issues.

rd

I just dug through this on my Dr Dude. Turned out the diode on the first trough switch had broken, but the lead was still connected until it vibrated. Took and age to track down, but I'd start looking at the trough switches.

My SoF makes the same noise on boot up and has a Rottendog MPU installed - I read somewhere that the Rottendog MPU is the problem.
Never tried to install an original Sys11 MPU to confirm this, but it makes somehow sense to me.

Well, about this time tomorrow I will have procured my fourth system 11 game. To think it all started with cyclone. I really dig the shallow rules, yet equally great shot selection of newer the games. And it is fun to see actaul skill shots in this era. To think there was a time i was planning to own all the jjp games. I feel I've made the much better fun-choice to go after this generation.

Yes you have.

Just quietly - I’ve never enjoyed playing a JJP game (as yet, anyway) And you nailed it - they ain’t fun to play. For me anyway.

Hey - YMMV.

rd

Same for me, I think personally I am not a big widebody fan in the first place and that's all they make, I also feel like there is so much stuff crammed onto the playfield it's like I'm walking into a cracker barrel, so much flare and toys I can't see the ball.

Added a beautiful Taxi along side an equally beautiful Diner.

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Sigh. This is perfection in a photo. 2 System 11 games I really miss, and regret selling.

Chris

Any idea of the value of the R11 resistor on the interconnect board? This is from Diner and it controls the left ramp flashers. It's dead, a cable tie was too close and melted onto it so i cant see the value.

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Download the schematics from IPDB and it’ll be in there.

rd

I have the manual.. I was looking at the schematic which doesn't have it. But I found it elsewhere in the manual.
4ohm!

But I can't find any 4ohm ones, will 3.9ohms do?

As long as it’s a ceramic type like the originals, I’d say yep.

rd

Anyone have a suggestion for pitch on taxi, trying to make as fast as possible while making ramps hittable consistently. strong flippers on this machine

That’s not a question with a concrete “here’s a number” answer.

Every machine is different. You’ll have to tool around with the leg bolts and get it how you like it. Every one of my pins is set up differently.

Remember, the higher you go at the back, the more you dampen the side to side movement as well. So it’s a trade off.

Maybe start with the back leg levellers fully extended out, and see how it shoots. Then wind them down from there if needed.

rd

I use pieces of wood or furniture feet/cups on some of my pins.
They're also great for trying out different pitches as you can jack the back legs up fully then pop the feet or wood on the front legs to lower the pitch and experiment.
No fiddling with levellers as hopefully the cups/wood are the same height so if the game is already level you're only adding to it.

The spring steel hinge on my left ramp entrance broke, and probably had been broken since I got the game because it had a section of mylar over it holding the two pieces together, and I didn’t put it there. So I took the parts off, traced a new piece on spring steel, and made a new one.
Putting it all back together it isn’t dropping. I also replaced the “pin crank stud” that the ramp rides on because the old one was almost worn through.
Problem is, not it’s not dropping on its own. I made sure the path for the stud is smooth and the ramp flap isn’t touching anything, so it’s not stuck open.
The spring on the coil that raises the ramp seems very weak, like I wouldn’t expect it to be doing much of anything to help push the mech back to the lowered position. If I press the release latch from the top, the ramp flap just sits there.
The stud is also not stuck in the slot of the side wall it pokes through, I already messed with that a little.
One curious thing is it seems like the arm that swings back and forth to lift and lower the ramp goes pretty far forward. It’s almost straight up which would allow it to just sit there when the release latch activates. I didn’t do anything with that arm though when I fixed the flap, and it was working fine when the flap was broken. Just another observation.

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My experience with drop ramps is that the ramp must fall to the playfield under its own weight, and is lifted by the coil action. The ability for it to fall is determined by the flexibility of the spring steel hinge. My guess would be that the spring steel you used is too thick. When I make up lift ramps for Pinbot/Jackbot, I use .005" spring steel. With the lift ramp out of the game, you should be able to set the bracket that supports the lift ramp on a flat surface and the ramp should fall to the surface under its own weight.

Thanks. I will get a thinner material and make another and see how it goes.

Out of interest, what size/metal do you use for the ramp flaps?

I need to make some custom ones soon …

Cheers!

rd

I picked up a project Party Zone and found the batteries had leaked. Is this worth trying to salvage or should I just get a replacement? If replacement, which is the best? I couldn't find a wpc club thread so I thought I'd post here.

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Step in here if you go new:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dumbass-test-and-reproduction-pcbs

The battery looks bad - but the board looks pretty good.

Does it work ok?

If so - just remove the old battery holder and install a new remote holder with long wires so the batteries can sit down on the base of the headbox.

If it works - no point spending $200 bucks when a $3 battery holder will fix it.

rd

Wow, those are a great value. Thanks for the suggestion.

I'll try this first and then send Dumbass a pm if it doesn't work. I just got the machine home last night. It turned on but nothing came on the display so I've been taking it apart today. It's going to need some work but doesn't appear to have ever been on fire like your WW thankfully!

Well, that’s a great start.

When you turn it on (after snipping off the battery box - don’t even need to put a new one on at this stage) the three LEDs up the left side of the CPU board do certain things. If they do that ok, then that board is ok. (See link below)

Often with WPC, the ribbon cables can get tarnished connections, often reseating them on and off a few times will solve the issues. Be sure not to miss a row of pins, very easy to do.

rd

https://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_WPC#Power-On_LEDs_and_Sound_Tones_.28Bongs.29

There is some corrosion under the right side battery. That will need to be handled as well as some remote or lithium batteries.

Thanks to all of you, system 11 club is awesome!

I generally use .007" for ramp entrance flaps.

Thanks champ!

rd

Your picture shows the back edge of the flap UNDER the plastic ramp. It needs to be on top of the plastic ramp, as in the picture below. See if that helps.

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As mentioned in the description, the machine has a NEW Power Supply Board, New MPU Board, New Aux Power Board and a New Interconnect Board.
Additional information. The Sound Board has ALL (every one) ALL new caps now.

No change, still comes on exactly as shown in the video.

As mentioned in the above post, I just replaced ALL the caps on the Sound Board last night...... no change, boots up just like the video.

Any other suggestions ? Not sure what would be the cause from the Rottendog board replacement. I did send them an email with the video link, however it's been a week and no reply back.

It's the Rottendog MPU. Why does it matter? You could install an original board in it and throw the Rottendog one in the trash but, this seems like a non issue to me if there are no other problems.

That’s just the upper plastic ramp piece having been removed and sitting on top. I haven’t yet, but I can’t wait to slice my finger open on one of the three pieces of spring steel that is a part of that transition from the metal ramp to the plastic one.

What should I do with this? The right side of the bottom cabinet was detached when I got it and had pulled the plywood below the groove from the side cabinet with it. I was able to get the bottom off without ripping the left side plywood below the groove. It seems like it would be easier to remove the plywood below the groove from the whole thing.

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