(Topic ID: 43458)

System 11 Club !

By mof

9 years ago


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  • 3,686 posts
  • 699 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by s2k4ary
  • Topic is favorited by 338 Pinsiders

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There are 3,686 posts in this topic. You are on page 74 of 74.
#3651 61 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

I found only one fuse under the playfield, and it was for the flame tube. Am I missing a 2nd fuse somewhere?
Edit: Found it. Hiding behind thick wiring and it tests bad
[quoted image]

Now the bigger question, why is it burnt?

#3652 61 days ago

I have two system 11B boards ready to ship monday, one to one original board design. Upgraded transistors to not need the second set of high wattage resistors.

Check it out:

https://pinballbasement.com/products/d-11883-system-11b-cpu-board

System 11B Top (resized).png
#3653 60 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Now the bigger question, why is it burnt?

I put in a 2.5 AMP fuse. Upon startup, I cannot hear anything lock on, however. After a few seconds I smell the familiar smell of when my taxi burnt a coil and immediately shut off. I went through all the coils I could see and none were warm to the touch. I went to the backbox and nothing on cpu was hot. Don’t want to send anything up in flames. The bridges have not yet been modified to have the inline fuse for early system 11s. Fuse blew so probably a problem somewhere. I’m noticing that several coils have a half ass diode install on them. If I’m not mistaken The coils don’t even need a diode as that’s what the diode board under the playfield is for. Only the flippers should need them.
image (resized).jpg

#3654 60 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

If I’m not mistaken The coils don’t even need a diode as that’s what the diode board under the playfield is for. Only the flippers should need them.

Not true! The diode board under the play field is for the A/C circuits only. All coils need a diode, unless the diode is installed some where else like on a WPC game the diodes are on the Power driver board. Later system 11 game the diodes are installed on the Aux power supply. This game however needs diodes installed at each coil.

Quoted from Jmckune:

I put in a 2.5 AMP fuse. Upon startup, I cannot hear anything lock on, however. After a few seconds I smell the familiar smell

So pull off 1J-11, 1J-12 and 1J-19 from the CPU board. Install a new fuse. Turn on the game. If the fuse does not burn, connect each connector back on one at a time while seeing if the fuse burns. This should narrow it down to a few coils/flash lamp circuits.

#3655 60 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Not true! The diode board under the play field is for the A/C circuits only. All coils need a diode, unless the diode is installed some where else like on a WPC game the diodes are on the Power driver board. Later system 11 game the diodes are installed on the Aux power supply. This game however needs diodes installed at each coil.

So pull off 1J-11, 1J-12 and 1J-19 from the CPU board. Install a new fuse. Turn on the game. If the fuse does not burn, connect each connector back on one at a time while seeing if the fuse burns. This should narrow it down to a few coils/flash lamp circuits.

That’s where I’m mixed up then, my other sys 11s are the later versions with the Aux power board

#3656 60 days ago

Hi, Sign me up Love system 11’s and refurbishing them.
Have 3 in my personal collection.
Millionaire, High Speed, and Space Station.
Hoping for a Pinbot in the near future.

#3657 59 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Not true! The diode board under the play field is for the A/C circuits only. All coils need a diode, unless the diode is installed some where else like on a WPC game the diodes are on the Power driver board. Later system 11 game the diodes are installed on the Aux power supply. This game however needs diodes installed at each coil.

So pull off 1J-11, 1J-12 and 1J-19 from the CPU board. Install a new fuse. Turn on the game. If the fuse does not burn, connect each connector back on one at a time while seeing if the fuse burns. This should narrow it down to a few coils/flash lamp circuits.

I found the culprit and determined why I wasn’t able to hear anything lock on. The culprit was the ramp raise solenoid. The ramp was already in the up position which is why I couldn’t see or hear anything as the plunger was already inside the coil. This must have happened before I got the game because those solenoids had never worked. Moving the plunger for that ramp is very hard and it shows signs of heat damage. And Q32 is what made the magic smoke smell. Without even testing can tell it is blown. Exhibit a and b

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
#3658 59 days ago

And after testing, I found a separate driver and pre driver that were bad. All of them connected to U20. All of those items have been removed and replaced. Before I put the board back in I’m going to remove all of the diodes that are soldered in completely wrong and replace them with new ones the correct way.

#3659 59 days ago

Just a quick question for Dr Dude owners.
My "big shot "just fell apart. Can it be glued back together like it looks or does it need to be replaced?
Thanks.

#3660 59 days ago
Quoted from king-pin:

Just a quick question for Dr Dude owners.
My "big shot "just fell apart. Can it be glued back together like it looks or does it need to be replaced?
Thanks.

If you find a new one, you let me know the source. Currently have a dude where the big shot figure is a cutoff sling plastic from funhouse so we are basically punching the girl!

#3661 59 days ago

Just realised that my pictures didn't show.
Here is my poor little man.
Looks like the top and bottom will glue back onto the plastic ring.

20220613_202955 (resized).jpg20220613_203003 (resized).jpg
#3662 58 days ago

Sign me up I have Big Guns.

#3663 58 days ago

No picture for proof of life?

1 week later
#3664 46 days ago

3 out of 5 isn't too bad! I'm looking for a Whirlwind and Diner to add to the collection soon!

pins (resized).jpeg

#3665 45 days ago
Quoted from ClarkGriswold:

I'm looking for a Whirlwind and Diner to add to the collection soon!

Nice lineup! Mousin’ is such a great game.

Hot take incoming (bracing for downvotes):

Taxi is better than Diner.

Unless you got the room or you’re trying to “catch ‘em all” I’d have a hard time having both in a collection. Heck! I’m having a hard time justifying having my Earthshaker and Whirlwind sitting next to each other! It’s really just so you can say you own both I guess.

#3666 45 days ago

Sign me up!

I've got a Grand Lizard and High Speed so far with a Whirlwind on the way!

Looking for a Taxi & Space Station

#3667 45 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Nice lineup! Mousin’ is such a great game.
Hot take incoming (bracing for downvotes):
Taxi is better than Diner.
Unless you got the room or your trying to “catch ‘em all” I’d have a hard time having both in a collection. Heck! I’m having a hard time justifying having my Earthshaker and Whirlwind sitting next to each other! It’s really just so you can say you own both I guess.

I've actually only played Diner a hand full of times. I really enjoyed it, but it is very similar in gameplay to Taxi (which is my favorite sys 11 game)

#3668 45 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Hot take incoming (bracing for downvotes):
Taxi is better than Diner.

I don’t think that’s much of a hot take.

I would say that’d be the overwhelming opinion.

Personally I really like Diner - as it has a few different strategies to play, whereas Taxi, if you don’t collect the guys and get the jackpot, you’re gonna lose (if the other players do it)

Diner you can
- stir the cup
- collect guys
- build score on the left ramp (and dine time)
- get sizzle bonuses
- Multiball is really valuable if you can do it right

Definitely room for both of them in any collection.

rd

#3669 45 days ago

Diner is one of my favorite Sys 11 games. I only wish that the right scoop were less rewarding.

#3670 45 days ago
Quoted from idealjoker:

Diner is one of my favorite Sys 11 games. I only wish that the right scoop were less rewarding.

I had to look that up …

>The sinkhole is lit at the beginning of the game, and also from the left inlane. When lit It awards 8 random awards- 25K, 50K, 75K, 100K, 250K, Extra Ball, Advance Dine-Time and Serve Customer. If a ball is locked, the game will (usually) award Start Multiball

I don’t think that’s overly rewarding in the context of what else is available on the playfield … remembering I have extra balls OFF on all my machines, so do take that into account with my opinions.

250k is nice but that’s like a fraction of getting a good cup spin going. And spamming the left ramp will get you a bunch more points and also raise your dine time value up as you go.

rd

#3671 45 days ago

Following up .. looks like you can adjust the right scoop to make it harder as well.

Adjust 34 turns off Start MB

Adjust 39 you can make it harder.

I know mine has a timer on it so my game must be on hard I guess. Been a while since I set it up!

rd

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#3672 45 days ago
Quoted from rotordave:

Following up .. looks like you can adjust the right scoop to make it harder as well.

Those adjustments will do the trick for me. (I have never played a Diner where I could adjust the settings.)

#3673 42 days ago
Quoted from rotordave:

I had to look that up …
>The sinkhole is lit at the beginning of the game, and also from the left inlane. When lit It awards 8 random awards- 25K, 50K, 75K, 100K, 250K, Extra Ball, Advance Dine-Time and Serve Customer. If a ball is locked, the game will (usually) award Start Multiball
I don’t think that’s overly rewarding in the context of what else is available on the playfield … remembering I have extra balls OFF on all my machines, so do take that into account with my opinions.
250k is nice but that’s like a fraction of getting a good cup spin going. And spamming the left ramp will get you a bunch more points and also raise your dine time value up as you go.
rd

I think the issue is a shot from Today's Special can be used to collect dine time bonus , release 1 and release 2 in multiball because it feeds the top left saucer.

The spinner shot which is supposed to be for collecting dine time is a much harder and riskier shot

There's a setting to stop this so you have to make the proper shots.

Here's the setting
Screenshot_20220629-204910_Drive (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#3674 27 days ago

I am having a problem with my Grand Lizard. It is giving me an Adjustment warning for the Right Kicker on power up. I cleaned and adjusted both switches and the licker operates correctly. In the switch edges test the right kicker does not register though it fires. I’ve been racking my brain on this one It doesn’t effect game play but it’s bugging me.
Any advise on this problem?

#3675 27 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I am having a problem with my Grand Lizard. It is giving me an Adjustment warning for the Right Kicker on power up. I cleaned and adjusted both switches and the licker operates correctly. In the switch edges test the right kicker does not register though it fires. I’ve been racking my brain on this one It doesn’t effect game play but it’s bugging me.
Any advise on this problem?

I’m away from my games at the moment …

But doesn’t this game have the actual switch down on the playfield next to the kicker arm mech?

Lots of old games - the upright switches fire the coil, the third switch gives you scoring.

Check that out.

rd

#3676 26 days ago
Quoted from rotordave:

But doesn’t this game have the actual switch down on the playfield next to the kicker arm mech?

Thanks Dave. This is the switch that is causing the problem.

#3677 26 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I am having a problem with my Grand Lizard. It is giving me an Adjustment warning for the Right Kicker on power up. I cleaned and adjusted both switches and the licker operates correctly. In the switch edges test the right kicker does not register though it fires. I’ve been racking my brain on this one It doesn’t effect game play but it’s bugging me.
Any advise on this problem?

Then replace the diode that is on the switch.

#3678 26 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

Thanks Dave. This is the switch that is causing the problem.

The other thing with those early SYS11 (and older Williams)

I had a on going issue with my High Speed - trough switch would go missing in action. Tested everything. Would be fine for a while, then fail again.

Then eventually I saw that it still had the large black interconnect plugs to plug in the playfield (most SYS11 do not). A good clean of the plugs there sorted it all out.

Pretty sure it’s just the 4 earliest SYS11 games that have these plugs.

Just mention that as it should help someone down the track.

rd

#3679 26 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

gutz Thanks for the offer. Definitely interested in as much information as possible. Been busy with preparation for the local show in the Pacific Northwest.
There are two specific areas that I am looking at:

The auxiliary power driver board fuse values.
The interconnect board resistor values.

I spent some time looking at this stuff this morning trying to understand an issue that dmacy had with an Earthshaker. I think I have a much better idea of what and how but I am now looking for corroborating evidence for my reasoning.
Do as much as you want to. I know some of this stuff can be annoying and feel mundane. I will take whatever you want to give me.

Image of the fuse label for the auxiliary power board in the backbox.
Images of the resistor values (if visible) for the interconnect board.
Physical verification of fuse values installed in the auxiliary power board and then listed here.
Physical verification of resistor values installed in the interconnect board and then listed here.

It's important to note the original Williams stickers (both the white with black text and blue/white with black text). The game number is the most important thing here because operators swapped boards between machines and it is easy to find a board from a different game incorrectly installed in the machine.
As I mentioned above ... I'll take whatever you want to give me. If it's nothing because it's too much work then that's fine too. I don't absolutely need Whirlwind but ... if you provide information from yours that is different to mine then that's another mystery for me to follow up on.

Taxi

20220715_231601 (resized).jpg20220715_231631 (resized).jpg20220715_231652 (resized).jpg20220715_231725 (resized).jpg
#3680 26 days ago

Earthshaker

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#3681 26 days ago

Elvira

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#3682 26 days ago

Dr dude

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#3683 26 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

gutz Thanks for the offer. Definitely interested in as much information as possible. Been busy with preparation for the local show in the Pacific Northwest.
There are two specific areas that I am looking at:

The auxiliary power driver board fuse values.
The interconnect board resistor values.

I spent some time looking at this stuff this morning trying to understand an issue that dmacy had with an Earthshaker. I think I have a much better idea of what and how but I am now looking for corroborating evidence for my reasoning.
Do as much as you want to. I know some of this stuff can be annoying and feel mundane. I will take whatever you want to give me.

Image of the fuse label for the auxiliary power board in the backbox.
Images of the resistor values (if visible) for the interconnect board.
Physical verification of fuse values installed in the auxiliary power board and then listed here.
Physical verification of resistor values installed in the interconnect board and then listed here.

It's important to note the original Williams stickers (both the white with black text and blue/white with black text). The game number is the most important thing here because operators swapped boards between machines and it is easy to find a board from a different game incorrectly installed in the machine.
As I mentioned above ... I'll take whatever you want to give me. If it's nothing because it's too much work then that's fine too. I don't absolutely need Whirlwind but ... if you provide information from yours that is different to mine then that's another mystery for me to follow up on.

I won't be much help on the installed fuse values because they will match the labels. First thing I do when acquiring a machine is check the fuse values between the backbox labels and manual. If there is a discrepancy, I pick the lowest rating.

3 weeks later
#3684 3 days ago

Just picked up a Bally Game Show recently. This is my first Bally/Williams pin. I've got two issues I'm looking for help with. First and foremost is the kicker to feed the ball trough isn't working. When a balls is in the drain and sits on the switch, there's a clicking noise from the power supply and it looks like the fuse in F5 is probably bad. Could this be as simple as a dead fuse? Where's a good place to buy replacements?

Other issue is the New Car drop target is permanently in the down position. Any advice or links to good resources for troubleshooting that would be appreciated.
The game otherwise plays fine with the glass off as long as I can manually load a ball in the shooter lane. Someone has definitely done some work on this guy as it has an LED kit, rottendog display and flippers are great.

Thanks!

#3685 3 days ago
Quoted from MysticalMule:

Could this be as simple as a dead fuse? Where's a good place to buy replacements?

Check the wire connections and fuses first. This could be the culprit/solution on both your issues.

Fuse kit for your game can be found here: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/FK1306

#3686 3 days ago

Some cool playfield pics of 3 system 11 games.

6A2F7C8F-3565-4D3A-8866-F179BE109000 (resized).jpeg9CB8F014-2CF9-48E4-90D9-605B5DBB658F (resized).jpegCDF31890-8806-4D1C-8882-2B774E928D83 (resized).jpeg
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