Now the bigger question, why is it burnt?

I have two system 11B boards ready to ship monday, one to one original board design. Upgraded transistors to not need the second set of high wattage resistors.

Check it out:

https://pinballbasement.com/products/d-11883-system-11b-cpu-board

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I put in a 2.5 AMP fuse. Upon startup, I cannot hear anything lock on, however. After a few seconds I smell the familiar smell of when my taxi burnt a coil and immediately shut off. I went through all the coils I could see and none were warm to the touch. I went to the backbox and nothing on cpu was hot. Don’t want to send anything up in flames. The bridges have not yet been modified to have the inline fuse for early system 11s. Fuse blew so probably a problem somewhere. I’m noticing that several coils have a half ass diode install on them. If I’m not mistaken The coils don’t even need a diode as that’s what the diode board under the playfield is for. Only the flippers should need them.
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Not true! The diode board under the play field is for the A/C circuits only. All coils need a diode, unless the diode is installed some where else like on a WPC game the diodes are on the Power driver board. Later system 11 game the diodes are installed on the Aux power supply. This game however needs diodes installed at each coil.

So pull off 1J-11, 1J-12 and 1J-19 from the CPU board. Install a new fuse. Turn on the game. If the fuse does not burn, connect each connector back on one at a time while seeing if the fuse burns. This should narrow it down to a few coils/flash lamp circuits.

That’s where I’m mixed up then, my other sys 11s are the later versions with the Aux power board

Hi, Sign me up Love system 11’s and refurbishing them.
Have 3 in my personal collection.
Millionaire, High Speed, and Space Station.
Hoping for a Pinbot in the near future.

I found the culprit and determined why I wasn’t able to hear anything lock on. The culprit was the ramp raise solenoid. The ramp was already in the up position which is why I couldn’t see or hear anything as the plunger was already inside the coil. This must have happened before I got the game because those solenoids had never worked. Moving the plunger for that ramp is very hard and it shows signs of heat damage. And Q32 is what made the magic smoke smell. Without even testing can tell it is blown. Exhibit a and b

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And after testing, I found a separate driver and pre driver that were bad. All of them connected to U20. All of those items have been removed and replaced. Before I put the board back in I’m going to remove all of the diodes that are soldered in completely wrong and replace them with new ones the correct way.

Just a quick question for Dr Dude owners.
My "big shot "just fell apart. Can it be glued back together like it looks or does it need to be replaced?
Thanks.

If you find a new one, you let me know the source. Currently have a dude where the big shot figure is a cutoff sling plastic from funhouse so we are basically punching the girl!

Just realised that my pictures didn't show.
Here is my poor little man.
Looks like the top and bottom will glue back onto the plastic ring.

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Sign me up I have Big Guns.

No picture for proof of life?

3 out of 5 isn't too bad! I'm looking for a Whirlwind and Diner to add to the collection soon!

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Nice lineup! Mousin’ is such a great game.

Hot take incoming (bracing for downvotes):

Taxi is better than Diner.

Unless you got the room or you’re trying to “catch ‘em all” I’d have a hard time having both in a collection. Heck! I’m having a hard time justifying having my Earthshaker and Whirlwind sitting next to each other! It’s really just so you can say you own both I guess.

Sign me up!

I've got a Grand Lizard and High Speed so far with a Whirlwind on the way!

Looking for a Taxi & Space Station

I've actually only played Diner a hand full of times. I really enjoyed it, but it is very similar in gameplay to Taxi (which is my favorite sys 11 game)

I don’t think that’s much of a hot take.

I would say that’d be the overwhelming opinion.

Personally I really like Diner - as it has a few different strategies to play, whereas Taxi, if you don’t collect the guys and get the jackpot, you’re gonna lose (if the other players do it)

Diner you can
- stir the cup
- collect guys
- build score on the left ramp (and dine time)
- get sizzle bonuses
- Multiball is really valuable if you can do it right

Definitely room for both of them in any collection.

rd

Diner is one of my favorite Sys 11 games. I only wish that the right scoop were less rewarding.

I had to look that up …

>The sinkhole is lit at the beginning of the game, and also from the left inlane. When lit It awards 8 random awards- 25K, 50K, 75K, 100K, 250K, Extra Ball, Advance Dine-Time and Serve Customer. If a ball is locked, the game will (usually) award Start Multiball

I don’t think that’s overly rewarding in the context of what else is available on the playfield … remembering I have extra balls OFF on all my machines, so do take that into account with my opinions.

250k is nice but that’s like a fraction of getting a good cup spin going. And spamming the left ramp will get you a bunch more points and also raise your dine time value up as you go.

rd

Following up .. looks like you can adjust the right scoop to make it harder as well.

Adjust 34 turns off Start MB

Adjust 39 you can make it harder.

I know mine has a timer on it so my game must be on hard I guess. Been a while since I set it up!

rd

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Those adjustments will do the trick for me. (I have never played a Diner where I could adjust the settings.)

I think the issue is a shot from Today's Special can be used to collect dine time bonus , release 1 and release 2 in multiball because it feeds the top left saucer.

The spinner shot which is supposed to be for collecting dine time is a much harder and riskier shot

There's a setting to stop this so you have to make the proper shots.

Here's the setting
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I am having a problem with my Grand Lizard. It is giving me an Adjustment warning for the Right Kicker on power up. I cleaned and adjusted both switches and the licker operates correctly. In the switch edges test the right kicker does not register though it fires. I’ve been racking my brain on this one It doesn’t effect game play but it’s bugging me.
Any advise on this problem?

I’m away from my games at the moment …

But doesn’t this game have the actual switch down on the playfield next to the kicker arm mech?

Lots of old games - the upright switches fire the coil, the third switch gives you scoring.

Check that out.

rd

Thanks Dave. This is the switch that is causing the problem.

Then replace the diode that is on the switch.

The other thing with those early SYS11 (and older Williams)

I had a on going issue with my High Speed - trough switch would go missing in action. Tested everything. Would be fine for a while, then fail again.

Then eventually I saw that it still had the large black interconnect plugs to plug in the playfield (most SYS11 do not). A good clean of the plugs there sorted it all out.

Pretty sure it’s just the 4 earliest SYS11 games that have these plugs.

Just mention that as it should help someone down the track.

rd

Taxi

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Earthshaker

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Elvira

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Dr dude

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I won't be much help on the installed fuse values because they will match the labels. First thing I do when acquiring a machine is check the fuse values between the backbox labels and manual. If there is a discrepancy, I pick the lowest rating.

Just picked up a Bally Game Show recently. This is my first Bally/Williams pin. I've got two issues I'm looking for help with. First and foremost is the kicker to feed the ball trough isn't working. When a balls is in the drain and sits on the switch, there's a clicking noise from the power supply and it looks like the fuse in F5 is probably bad. Could this be as simple as a dead fuse? Where's a good place to buy replacements?

Other issue is the New Car drop target is permanently in the down position. Any advice or links to good resources for troubleshooting that would be appreciated.
The game otherwise plays fine with the glass off as long as I can manually load a ball in the shooter lane. Someone has definitely done some work on this guy as it has an LED kit, rottendog display and flippers are great.

Thanks!

Check the wire connections and fuses first. This could be the culprit/solution on both your issues.

Fuse kit for your game can be found here: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/FK1306

Some cool playfield pics of 3 system 11 games.

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So far I've tested every coil in that chain and each has continuity and each is getting about 40 volts. If I test from the coil at the end of the chain, I get continuity all the way back to the far end of the fuse on the aux. driver board. I get continuity on the trough switches as well. Of the 3 trough switches, the only one that gives any sign of life is the outhole switch. When the switch is activated, the outhole solenoid/kick there tries to move but just kind of jiggles instead.

Is it possible there's not enough voltage to the switch or would that even matter? Here's a link showing the outhole kicker trying to do it's thing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1gbzagginmfd3mo/IMG_5811.MOV?dl=0

Completely immaterial here. Switches and solenoids are not connected directly here.... the game senses the switch being closed, and the mpu board/software makes the decision to fire the solenoid via its path. Since it's trying to fire, the switch is fine (the software sees it).

Just because you have continuity doesn't mean there's enough current to fire the coil properly. Tug on each solenoid connection and make sure one of them isn't hanging on by a couple of strands. You can also use some jumpers and duplicate the chain for testing. (Just the outhole solenoid to its points on the board)

Alright so the outhole kicker assembly was sticky and sluggish. I took it apart and cleaned it. Moves much better now. Once I did that, oddly enough the other solenoids wired on that series started working. The outhole kicker is still only partly working. It still does a little jiggly baby kick as shown in my video link. If I use my multimeter to tap the Q33 transistor on the MPU, the kicker actually engages full strength.

What could cause the kicker to not fully engage during play when the outhole switch is hit? I tested it for continuity and was fine... could the switch be bad? Is there something else on the MPU between Q33 and the coil causing trouble? It looks like Q33 has burned out before because someone did an ugly repair on it (as shown)

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When Q33 goes bad it sometimes will also take out Q29

Also check that connector at IJ11? Looks burnt

Q29 looks like it has 3 legs. What's the best way to test that guy?

Is there anything else between the Q29 pre-driver and the switch I should be looking at? Hitting Q33 operates the kicker very well so it's got to be something in between, I'm thinking.

I picked up a Road Kings the other day and it works well except the left outlane ball save light. I pulled the bulb out and it was charred on the outside and a new bulb didn't work either. Everything I'm reading says it is probably a bad lamp socket but I'm wondering if I should look at anything else before I replace the socket.

Howdy yall. Going to pick up a Grand Lizard this weekend... never had a system 11 before.... do the heads fold down or will I need to do something else like take it off to fit it in my pilot?
Only had DE, new sterns and JJP.
Thanks!

Yes.

Welcome to the club.

My diner was in attract earlier and I noticed the same segment on the display was stuck on on every digit.
A reboot fixed it..

What could this be and anything to worry about?

Background: recently moved in HighSpeed. I had to disconnect the head so a lot of wire splicing.

Issue: the "Advance" switch doesn't work.

Consequence: can't audit, test, nor adjust.

Info: The wires it uses (white blue bar, green brown/red bar) go straight to headers that are on main board so not a bad splice. The pins are not corroded. I shorted switch with a coin on its pins to no avail.

Wire splicing? No need to cut/splice wires to remove the head. Just unplug connectors from the boards in the head to remove it.

Turns out it was something to worry about. diner is dead now.
PIA FAILURE.
Swapped U41 with a working one and still dead.

Going to a pinball event tomorrow and was hoping to take it, can I swap bk2ks mpu into diner? I think it's a 11b whereas diner has 11c.