I would definitely replace the eject shield first. In the slow motion the ball is ejected into the side of the exit then bounces around. Can you make any adjustments?

I’m looking for advice on next steps on Earthshaker

I rebuilt all three flippers but I blew it on two of them. I installed the coils for the right and upper left backwards so when I resoldered I got the wires wrong.

When I started it up the right flipper moved a little and dropped back down. Left flippers did nothing. Both fuses blew.

I’ve replaced fuses and the right flipper coil (I’ve ordered the upper left coil). With the upper flipper disconnected the lower one works fine and I’m guessing the upper will be okay too when properly wired. The right flipper does nothing (no voltage gets to it). Checked continuity from the back box. Fuse tests okay.

What should I check next?

Most likely you burnt a trace off of the inner connect board or aux power supply board.

How can I check. Will it look toasty?

I have a Earthshaker that when I do the SW1 sound test it gave me 3 beeps. According to manual it's an issue with U22 sound chip. I replaced that chip and it still gives me 3 beeps in test. Could it be a problem with the connector the chip plugs into? What else should I look into?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/need-help-troubleshooting-a-dead-flipper-problem-in-police-force#post-5325182

Thanks Grumpy. I read through that and see a lot of good info. I’ll get going on figuring this out.

This was just one place that can open up. It can happen on the back of the Aux power supply too.

Checked resistance as suggested. Looks good. Also looked at voltage to coil. Working flipper got about 77V, non working right 0. Upper left starts at 23V and declines. Will check diodes on aux power today and will pull board so I can check the back.

I’m not seeing any bad traces. Checked diodes. Most tested normal but D3-7 and 15,16,22 show about 1600 instead of OL. D23 indicates 675/482.

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I got this little guy staring at me on my MPU. It’s a High Speed that day for about a year and worked before I set it aside until the tome came for a hardtop install. I have recapped the power supply board and am getting 5v on the TP on the MPU. Any guesses what it’s trying to tell me?

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Update on this. BR2 was showing 1600 readings instead of OL so I replaced it. New one show the same readings and the old one tests normal off the board. Transistors all test okay. Is this a diode issue or something else?

I have a Fire! with an "acid washed" mpu board- I have been convinced by a friend to look for an original board and not a rottendog. I'm also up for a challenge and have been learning board repair this summer - anyone have a spare System 11/A/B board in any condition that would be willing to sell me? I'd give you a fair price and am not looking for a hand out. Really any condition as long as the acid hasn't spread through the entire bottom half of the board like mine. Shoot me a PM - thanks in advance!

Post a pic of your board. My Pinbot board was really bad, but fixed up nicely and still working.

Did you pull out the inner connect board to look at the traces?

Yes, I did that yesterday. Issue was easy to find and fix (the other three wires were put in before I bought the machine). All is well now.

I learned a lot from the process and fortunately the fix was easy and inexpensive.

Thanks Grumpy for pointing me in the right direction.

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Playball!

If my HS won’t boot, and is giving what looks like the bottom half of a “3” in the readout (but who knows), do I just shotgun the CPU and whatever else pinwiki says could be bad? Voltages are good. 6116 NVRAM.

I have a Pinbot. For the most part it works great, but sometimes during play the machine will just stop responding You can still hear the music and see the lights, but the flippers and most everything else just stops responding until turn it off and back on. It has new batteries in it, so that's not it. Any suggestions on what it could be?

Thanks

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Send it out for repair is my advice.

Has the ps been rebuilt ever?

There's more acid than not on the entire board. Almost covered everything.

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Yes, the PS was rebuilt recently. I think I found the issue. I noticed that one of the flipper diode's was barely making a connection. I resoldered it and it seems to be working fine now. Thanks

I think mine was actually worse than this. Could be a good learning experience and give lots of practice working on boards. I may be in the minority, but I would be fixing this board if was mine. If you are going to pitch it, send me a pm and I might buy it for a fair price. I have many sys 11s and always looking to have backup boards.
If you want to try to fix it, start a thread and get some advice. Read through some of the repair tutorial threads here on pinside.

I have an earthshaker that I just shopped out... when finished I noticed the shaker motor wasn't working... long story short, one the brushes was so worn it wasn't touching the armature. Purchased new brushes, replaced both, and shaker tested fine in test mode. However, in game mode when the motor should engage, (locked ball or other mode) game does a hard reset. Knowing that it didn't reset before I unplugged the motor, game no longer resets in play. Replaced motor with one from Road show, game doesn't reset..... So what would cause this issue? Checked for anything loose in motor, nothing, like I wrote earlier, one brush was completely gone and spring pushing brush in was at max, the other brush still had life left but changed them both out anyway. Any suggestions?

I've been convinced, I'll give it a shot.

Nice! Worst that can happen is you get some practice. I think I followed Terry's guide. Corrosion was hiding under some of the header pins along the bottom that looked completely fine. If you start a thread, post the link. I will follow along.
Good luck!

New flashy mod I created for BK2K in case anyone is interested.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/102060

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Anyone have a nice Sys 11 lockdown bar available? Looking for one for my Taxi. I'd be good with one that needs sanding/polishing.

I know its a reach, but does anyone have a left slingshot plastic for Millionaire laying around? Have a customer who has a machine rocking and upside down, sharpied, a d hole punched Cue Ball Wizard plastic. He doesn't have many others in bad shape, so a full set doesn't make sense for him. (Nor can I find a full set anywhere either)

If not, anyone have a good process for cutting laxan and decaling one? I actually own the game, so I could theoretically scan and print a 1 to 1 match pretty easily

I've had some success with this...

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/taxi/repair/repair.html

http://www.jeff-z.com/pinball/mill/repair/repair.html

Solved my issue with my High Speed MPU not booting and giving a random set of lines on my status display. It was C30. At least that was the last thing I replaced before it worked. Repaired some acid damage prior to replacing C30, but the display didn’t change after doing that.

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Back in the club after 3 years!

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I have a High Speed System-11 board on my bench and it boots with an eight on the led display.
I tried to find what this means, but I cannot find anything other than it being an indication about blanking.
But I haven't gone into the chip testing function jet.
The board tested good with a test eprom (going into blinking mode).
Can anyone point me in the right direction?

I think Pinwiki has some info about checking blanking voltages and signals.

Does anyone know of a source for Rollergame cabinet decals in the USA besides classic Acades on eBay? I have the honor of being banned from buying from him because I had the gaul to return something.

Just have a buddy buy and send to you

Count your lucky stars.

Sign me up!!

The doctor is in!

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I bought a bridge rectifier and had a question: does this look new? Not sure if it matters or not, but looks tarnished and scuffed up.

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Looks like old stock, probably fine if bought from reputable supplier

Does anyone know a source for the rubber boot that goes over the power switch? I can’t even find a part number for it. Thanks!

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The high score reset button on my Mousin' Around isn't working, and I'm not really sure where to start diagnosing the problem. Nothing on the switch itself stands out to me as incorrect, although it's probably worth noting that my game is missing an interlock switch. I'm not sure if that would have anything to do with it or not.

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I just posted, two Pool Sharks, and a Jokerz, in the marketplace.

Do you realize that you have to hold it for more than 5 seconds to reset the high score.

Yeah, holding it down does nothing.