(Topic ID: 43458)

System 11 Club !


By mof

7 years ago



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  • 3,152 posts
  • 637 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by Phesson
  • Topic is favorited by 282 Pinsiders

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There are 3152 posts in this topic. You are on page 63 of 64.
#3101 55 days ago

Here are 2 versions. Notice the one on the top is much more populated.

1589995291277628521313 (resized).jpg
#3102 55 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Frog:

Maybe the ROM(s) are bad?

Any way to test these?

#3103 55 days ago
Quoted from jaytrem:

If you don't have the correct one some sounds could be missing

All five boards are original with matching serial numbers, but thanks for the pics.

#3104 55 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Any way to test these?

Pull them out read them in on an eprom burner and compare to files downloaded from ipdb/pps.

#3105 54 days ago
Quoted from Nihonmasa:

Hi Guys,
Having some insert issue with my F14; both meft "rescue" and "echo kill" are constantly flashing.
Issue with a diod somewhere on those lamp rows/lines?

Yep, that was the issue!

#3106 51 days ago

What is recommended to power displays on a test bench? 110V for glass? What would you use to power it?
If you have a Sys11 power supply, what would you use to power it without the transformer from a machine?
A 5V LED displays seems ideal, but expensive. Are there any alternatives?

Matt

#3107 49 days ago
Quoted from matt1999:

What is recommended to power displays on a test bench? 110V for glass?

My memory is they run off 200VDC, supplied by +100DVC and -100VDC. Pinouts, etc, here: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Master_Display_Driver_Board

#3108 49 days ago

Cross post from the Dr Dude thread:

Stripping down my playfield and found this... The gift of gab light hanging loose and shorting with the big shot mechanism. I wonder if this was the source of my blowing transistor...

Any guesses as to the issues this might cause?

1 week later
#3109 39 days ago

Sign me up!
I picked up my first System 11 game, Big Guns, a couple days ago.
I'm going through it now, fixing the drop target assemblies, and just generally going through everything.
Game sounds are missing, but the music tracks work. Someone did some work on the MPU board around U23, so I'll be checking that area out first.

#3110 39 days ago

I have a Jokerz. The draw poker scoop kick out fires around three times before it can kick the ball up into the top inlanes. It has a 23-800 coil. Should I replace it with a stronger coil? What would the next one up from that be?

#3111 39 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I have a Jokerz. The draw poker scoop kick out fires around three times before it can kick the ball up into the top inlanes. It has a 23-800 coil. Should I replace it with a stronger coil? What would the next one up from that be?

With scoops, make sure the rubber tip on the end of the VUK plunger hasn’t broken off. If it’s bare metal the arm likely isn’t long enough anymore and it’s damaging the ball.

#3112 37 days ago

Anyone need the Red T-molding for Elvira and the Party Monsters? I bought a 25' roll (minimum order), which is enough for 3 machines. It was so cheap that I'll give my extra away for free (if you just pay USPS shipping). So there you have it ... EATPM Red T-Molding free to the first two folks to PM me. US Domestic only please. For future reference, maybe this is common knowledge (I didn't search on pinside), but the molding is available from arcadeshop.com. 10 bucks plus shipping for 25 feet ... a bargain! I just installed it on mine and it looks like a perfect match.

#3113 36 days ago

Hey everyone!
I just purchased my first pin, an F 14.
I have it set up and it seems to play a little slower then I remember.
I have the manual and I've adjusted the feet but I think I'm missing something.
Also I can't seem to make any adjustments to the game modes. ie. meduim, easy, etc.
Can anyone point me to a sticky or set up thread? I've searched but maybe I'm using the wrong wording.
I want to get it set up properly before I look into modding it in any way.
Thanks in advance

#3114 36 days ago
Quoted from Dthwsh:

Hey everyone!
I just purchased my first pin, an F 14.
I have it set up and it seems to play a little slower then I remember.
I have the manual and I've adjusted the feet but I think I'm missing something.
Also I can't seem to make any adjustments to the game modes. ie. meduim, easy, etc.
Can anyone point me to a sticky or set up thread? I've searched but maybe I'm using the wrong wording.
I want to get it set up properly before I look into modding it in any way.
Thanks in advance

You can try waxing the playfield and cranking the rear feet up more. If you want to make adjustments to the game just hit the advance button on the coin door (the one all the way to the left from your perspective) and then once you make it to the setting you want to adjust, hit the start button. Once you get to the end of the menu it will save your settings.

#3115 36 days ago

Yeah - A Deep Clean followed by a couple coats of wax might help you out a lot.

Congrats. F-14 is a fun game.

#3116 36 days ago
Quoted from Jmckune:

You can try waxing the playfield and cranking the rear feet up more. If you want to make adjustments to the game just hit the advance button on the coin door (the one all the way to the left from your perspective) and then once you make it to the setting you want to adjust, hit the start button. Once you get to the end of the menu it will save your settings.

Thanks!

#3117 36 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Yeah - A Deep Clean followed by a couple coats of wax might help you out a lot.
Congrats. F-14 is a fun game.

The mylar is kinda beat, so are some of the decals.
I was planning on redoing the play field. with new stickers and a new overlay.

Do you need to disassemble the whole field to do this?
I've seen some people do it and some don't.
I've also noticed a lot of people are doing a clear coat on the play field instead of the overlay.
What are the pros and cons?
Sorry for all the questions.

#3118 36 days ago

I would check some of the Tutorial Threads for Payfield Resto / Repair.

You can buff out the Mylar if it isn't torn up / bubbling. But if you have insert problems and art problems to boot, that might not be an option.

As far as thorough cleaning goes, the more you can get off the topside, the better. Just take a bunch of pictures before you start and then snap one each time you remove a piece and you should be fine. Super intimidating until you do it 3 times, then it's just a hassle.

Tons of threads addressing just abut every question you could have here and so many great guys who will chime in with their more experienced opinions and soutions.

#3119 36 days ago
Quoted from Dthwsh:

The mylar is kinda beat, so are some of the decals.
I was planning on redoing the play field. with new stickers and a new overlay.
Do you need to disassemble the whole field to do this?
I've seen some people do it and some don't.
I've also noticed a lot of people are doing a clear coat on the play field instead of the overlay.
What are the pros and cons?
Sorry for all the questions.

Pros the surface is bullet proof...Cons, it is a lot of work..

#3120 35 days ago

I am just wrapping up a bunch of work on my Space Station. I had some speaker hum. I read through a bunch of sites and found some suggested ground related feedback through the contacts in the backbox. I removed the screws on my sound board and the hum went way down. I ended up installing nylon washers on each side of the board. That helped a bunch with the hum. There is still some there, but it is very faint compared to what it was. Hopefully it helps someone else.

#3121 34 days ago
Quoted from DudeRegular:

I am just wrapping up a bunch of work on my Space Station. I had some speaker hum. I read through a bunch of sites and found some suggested ground related feedback through the contacts in the backbox. I removed the screws on my sound board and the hum went way down. I ended up installing nylon washers on each side of the board. That helped a bunch with the hum. There is still some there, but it is very faint compared to what it was. Hopefully it helps someone else.

Do you think this would help with the hum from Jokers?

#3122 34 days ago
Quoted from Silvercoin:

Do you think this would help with the hum from Jokers?

I would give it a shot. First try it out with the board unscrewed from the backbox. Support it how you can with the wires and see how that sounds. It it reduces your hum, then I would go buy some washers and install them.

#3123 33 days ago

Jokers had an errata published about its soundboard. It's the only one to use that particular board from memory.

There's a copy on ipdb: https://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf

Has that been done already?

#3124 33 days ago
Quoted from ajfclark:

Jokers had an errata published about its soundboard. It's the only one to use that particular board from memory.
There's a copy on ipdb: https://www.ipdb.org/files/1308/Williams_1988_Jokerz_William_Service_Tip_For_Audio_Hum.pdf
Has that been done already?

Yeah, from what I understand it's the only (or was it the first? I can't remember) Sys11 that uses a stereo sound board, so the fix is a little different. Here is an image of the service bulletin that supposedly drastically decreases the hum on Jokerz!:

http://www.videoengine.com/pins/jokerz/jokerzpix/level4/jokerzservicetip.jpg

#3125 30 days ago

The top drop target on my Whirlwind is not registering. When I run the switch test it generally does not respond but if I move the connector to the opto board around I can get a response some time. I’m guessing the plug (shown) is the culprit.

The plug looks like it is jury rigged together. I’d like to replace it but have 2 questions.
1) How do I figure out the part number to order and who stocks them?
2) what tool do I need do get the wires connected to the plug?

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#3126 30 days ago
Quoted from schwism:

The top drop target on my Whirlwind is not registering. When I run the switch test it generally does not respond but if I move the connector to the opto board around I can get a response some time. I’m guessing the plug (shown) is the culprit.
The plug looks like it is jury rigged together. I’d like to replace it but have 2 questions.
1) How do I figure out the part number to order and who stocks them?
2) what tool do I need do get the wires connected to the plug?
[quoted image]

#3127 30 days ago

Not my video, but it is a good guide.

#3128 29 days ago

Here's the wiring:

pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png

#3129 29 days ago
Quoted from Tomass:

Not my video, but it is a good guide.

Thanks. This is good information for other connectors but not this one. This connector has the wire perpendicular to the plug and pushed in. I believe there is a sharp point that goes into the wire to make the connection.

#3130 29 days ago
Quoted from yaksplat:

Here's the wiring:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Got it. I’m thinking I have one of two problems. I’m starting with the plug. Once I figure out what Part # it is so I can order it I plan to replace the pictured plug.

If that doesn’t fix it the problem would seem to be the J1 not making contact with the board. At that point I’d pop for a new board.

#3131 29 days ago
Quoted from schwism:

1) How do I figure out the part number to order and who stocks them?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5792-10818-05

Quoted from schwism:

2) what tool do I need do get the wires connected to the plug?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-IDC156

#3132 29 days ago

Grumpy, you’re the best! That’s exactly what I needed to know. I’ll be ordering this morning.

#3133 29 days ago

I am having trouble with My Jokerz, The draw poker, top right out hole kicker has to fire 3 or 4 times to get the ball up into the inlanes. I have cleaned the mech, adjusted the tip with no difference. It seems to bang around the ball guides and bounce back in. Should I consider going up in coil strength? It has an AE 23-800 coil. Or is there another solution?

#3134 29 days ago
Quoted from schwism:

Got it. I’m thinking I have one of two problems. I’m starting with the plug. Once I figure out what Part # it is so I can order it I plan to replace the pictured plug.
If that doesn’t fix it the problem would seem to be the J1 not making contact with the board. At that point I’d pop for a new board.

That board was butchered on mine. The traces were shot from a bad soldering attempt. I just had to jumper them with wires.

pasted_image (resized).png

#3135 29 days ago
Quoted from schwism:

Thanks. This is good information for other connectors but not this one. This connector has the wire perpendicular to the plug and pushed in. I believe there is a sharp point that goes into the wire to make the connection.

That's an IDC type connector, used by manufacturers for speed of installation (not longevity). Most people replace them with the crimp in type. (Me included).

If they aren't disturbed they're usually ok for a years, but once its time to replace them, they get the crimp type.

#3136 29 days ago
Quoted from schwism:

Grumpy, you’re the best! That’s exactly what I needed to know. I’ll be ordering this morning.

Grumpy, it’s never easy. I realized the connector needs to be 100, not 156. I found this:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=5792-12116-05

This should work. There are two punch tools listed.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-IDC-A100
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/77-IDC

Which is correct? Or will either work?

#3137 29 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

That's an IDC type connector, used by manufacturers for speed of installation (not longevity). Most people replace them with the crimp in type. (Me included).
If they aren't disturbed they're usually ok for a years, but once its time to replace them, they get the crimp type.

Thanks. I’m new to this and still learning. If I go this route and the male end is 100 would this work for the connector?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5791-09838-00

I’m not sure whether 062 is correct. If so I’d need this, female round crimp terminals and a crimping tool.

#3138 29 days ago

Crimper:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W-HT-1921

5 pin .100 connector housing:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=22-01-2057

Pins:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0123

.062 connectors aren't used when mated to boards. (0.093 occasionally are, but 62/93 connectors are usually on wires inline to each other.)

Compare the connector you're replacing to the larger ones in the head on the boards to get the size. If it's the same as that you need .156 stuff also available at GPE and the same crimper will work. If it's .100 as you suspect, it will be smaller than those larger sizes. It's not clear from the manual and I don't recall what WW has as I sold mine several years ago.

#3139 29 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Crimper:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W-HT-1921
5 pin .100 connector housing:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=22-01-2057
Pins:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=08-52-0123
.062 connectors aren't used when mated to boards. (0.093 occasionally are, but 62/93 connectors are usually on wires inline to each other.)
Compare the connector you're replacing to the larger ones in the head on the boards to get the size. If it's the same as that you need .156 stuff also available at GPE and the same crimper will work. If it's .100 as you suspect, it will be smaller than those larger sizes. It's not clear from the manual and I don't recall what WW has as I sold mine several years ago.

Thanks. I did make sure this is a .100 so I should be good to go.

#3140 29 days ago
Quoted from schwism:

Which is correct? Or will either work?

Yes either will work.
There is a big debate on whether to use IDC connectors or not. If used for what they were intended to be use on they work great and last a very long time. But when misused as Williams did when they used them for GI connections at a constant 5 amp draw, they will fail in short order. The connector you need to replace has little to no current draw and only needed to be replaced because of operator error.

#3141 29 days ago

Selling my Earthshaker and Rollergames.
Add in Marketplace

#3142 28 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I am having trouble with My Jokerz, The draw poker, top right out hole kicker has to fire 3 or 4 times to get the ball up into the inlanes. I have cleaned the mech, adjusted the tip with no difference. It seems to bang around the ball guides and bounce back in. Should I consider going up in coil strength? It has an AE 23-800 coil. Or is there another solution?

Have you changed the coil sleeve?

#3143 21 days ago

Has anyone got a used 11C interconnect board to fit whirlwind?

I have one which has a hint of fire damage.

I would just need it posted to Spooky up in WI.

Please drop me a message if you can help out.

Cheers!
rd

CC2B0F95-9A03-4A5A-BA23-13C0DC9D8152 (resized).jpeg
#3144 21 days ago
Quoted from schwism:

The top drop target on my Whirlwind is not registering. When I run the switch test it generally does not respond but if I move the connector to the opto board around I can get a response some time. I’m guessing the plug (shown) is the culprit.

That can mean the male header pin on the board may have a broken solder joint. I would resolder all of them on the board first. Best to repin the wired connector anyway.

#3145 21 days ago

.

#3146 21 days ago
Quoted from PinballManiac40:

That can mean the male header pin on the board may have a broken solder joint. I would resolder all of them on the board first. Best to repin the wired connector anyway.

I rebuilt the connector with molex. I’m getting power to the opto board and have checked board connections from the pins. Ordered a new opto board (may just be the opto but figured I’d go whole hog). Hopefully that will take care of it.

2 weeks later
#3147 1 day ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I have a Jokerz. The draw poker scoop kick out fires around three times before it can kick the ball up into the top inlanes.

I have cleaned the assembly, bent the feeder assembly multiple times and it never gets better.
I have straightened it again and shot a slo-mo video. The ball shoots out, hits the ball gate and back into the scoop 8 out of 10 times.
Is it the angle of the worn playfield?
Any thoughts?

#3148 1 day ago

Has the eject shield been replaced?
The tabs can wear down and cause a bad exit.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7351-1-9

#3149 15 hours ago
Quoted from Impzilla:

Has the eject shield been replaced?
The tabs can wear down and cause a bad exit.

Thanks Impzilla. It's out of stock but I'll see if I can find one.

#3150 12 hours ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I'll see if I can find one.

Search Marco for eject shield and you will see a few colored ones with the slightly larger mounting holes, I think you can use those but you need to align them manually.
Looks like all the suppliers carry the larger hole units

https://www.pinballlife.com/eject-shield.html

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