The benefit to using the 1n4007 is only having to buy/store one type to get the job done. And no down side.

Thanks, Grumpy. I’ll go with 1n4007.

I believe the nomenclature denotes the voltage the diode can handle:

1n4001:100v
1n4004:350-400v
1n4007:700-1000v@1a
The 1n4007 is the most robust of the 3 being built to handle high voltage as well as being able to last longer

...

Hey guys - have a displays question if anyone has a minute. I wrote a post yesterday, but nobody has responded. It's for a Sys9 Space Shuttle, but figured this was a solid place to look for help. Thank you in advance!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/space-shuttle-display-issues-help-reuqest#post-5510530

if you have already checked to make sure that all ribbon cables are properly oriented and seated, and the 3 molex plugs are correctly connected to the master, and the MPU, I would unplug the displays from the master display board 1 at a time to eliminate the possibility of a short in 1 of the displays and/or a bad ribbon cable.

Booooooom!!

rd

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Yes

Where were you, buddy! You got to make it here one year for that!

rd

Another Earthshaker question.

When ball lock one is activated a shot up the right ramp puts the ball in the VUK hole. I think the fault should open and stay open until the VUK shoots the ball up so it can go down the fault line. On mine the fault usually opens and closes 3-4 times and may or may not stay open.

See the photo. Could the microswitch and/or diode be the issue?

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That’s the first place I’d be looking. Sounds like the switch isn’t registering properly.

Cut that pink connector off and solder the wires directly, retest.

There's a plastic part that latches the fault, it might be worn and need to be replaced. I think the same or similar one is used on the fireplug in fire as well.

Yes, it is 03-8090. I’ve seen pictures of it but I’m not seeing anything that looks like it on mine. Would anyone have a picture of their fault unit?

Nice how it's not really shown in the manual!

They refer to it but it is on the underneath side. It would have been helpful to point to it on the bottom view along with the other parts as opposed to the vague reference on the front view. I’ll have to detach the unit to check the status.

Yep - checked the ribbon cables and display master/MPU connections - all were correct. (And replugged into the second master). I tried player 1 out on multiple displays with all others disconnected, still presented with the same issue. I'm totally perplexed.

You can see some of it in your picture. It's that black plastic piece on the opposite side of the bracket from where the switch is mounted.

I found it. I checked it out and noticed a few things. The spring is connected at both ends but hangs pretty loose. I’m not sure if there’s any tension at all.

I’m also doubtful there’s enough tension in the spring that holds the plastic in place. It moves freely so I think the plastic doesn’t catch as it should. I’m going to try to stretch that spring and see if that helps keep it in place.

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Ahh one of those things. I call it a wobble cam. It looks like it may have been greased. If they get gummed up and sticky, they don't work right. The first thing to try is just remove it and clean it good. Note the position of the retaining clip, washers, and springs. The extension spring might need a little tension on it. The retaining spring is fine. Just clean, reassemble and test.

Sometimes the cams can get wear spots in them and make them catchy. You then would want to replace it.

Check out this thread. Good info on the cam. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/police-force-diverter-diagnosis

Cabinet restore question:

The bottom outside edge of my Taxi cabinet looks to have a fairly consistent 1/8" 45° chamfer all the way around. Is this by design or just worn this way?

Hard to get a good pic. The white down the edge is the chamfer that got painted white accidentally and evenly when I rolled primer on the side.

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I had to go check my Taxi. Never really noticed it before, but it does have that same type of chamfer on it. It is more aggressive of a chamfer for some reason than the other pins I checked.

Thanks. I didn't remember seeing it on my WPCs but two of them have small chamfers and Getaway has a good sized one like the Taxi.

Hi guys,

I was wondering, where is the best place for relays used on sys11 mpu and aux power driver board?

Edit: nevermind, I just found https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/williams-aux-power-driver-board-relay-cross-reference

I've been working on a Taxi recently and have been battling booting issues. Locked on 5V + Diagnostics leds on power up. Power cycle and it boots properly. Fixed the power supply and same thing. Power it up on the bench same thing.
I went through all the pinwiki stuff clip a new resistor on C30 and then it boots properly replace it and the same problem is back. I found ZR2 was bad when I power tested it off the board replaced it and same problem again with a marginal improvement.
Lots of hair pulling and component testing later and I finally had a brainstorm reset generator mod! I did the mod which is super easy and now the board boots perfect every time. More intelligent people may have been able to find the exact problem but it never occurred to me initially that the reset mod eliminated the majority of the reset circuit thats causing this booting issue.

I had the same issue with my earthshaker and the issue was for me that the spring was to loose and I had to tighten it up. Cut it down and now works like a charm.

I didn't realize the ingenuity of this "fix" until the new relay circuit board showed up today.

20200409_185614 (resized).jpg

Bump.. 18 days is too long not to have a post!

Here's a pic of my 'cluster'.. Yeah I know BOP isn't System 11, but it looks like one... lol

COME ON! Post some pics people!

DSC_0477 (resized).JPG

Here's my new to me F14. Fixed two sunken inserts this morning. Debating whether to order the insert decals from classic arcades.

IMG_20200427_131559_850 (resized).jpg

IMG_20200428_124914 (resized).jpg

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How did you pop those inserts back up, and how successful was it?

i used a small heat gun I had on the low setting. Held it on the insert from underneath for 15 seconds. I was surprised that the entire insert came out with very light pressure using a nut driver. freaked me out for second as I wasn't expecting it. I reinstalled it, pressed it down with a block of wood and used a little crazy glue around the edge from underneath to hold it in place. perfect. it was actually the first time I had ever done it and it was pretty simple. I guess you could use a hair dryer, just hold it on the insert a little longer as they don't put out as much heat as a heat gun and aren't as concentrated.

I bought the PPS insert laminated decals. What's there now is terrible so even if the decals won't make it perfect, it will be better than it was.

Just posted this in the Mousin Around club but figured it may get more views/responses here:

Hey guys-
Just replaced all the original capacitors on my power supply board.
Started the game and it powered up fine. Went to test TP4 and got 0 volts instead of -12V
Tested TP1 and got 10V instead of 5V.
Tested TP3 and got 26V instead of 12V.
New capacitors I put in:
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W12246-PEC-KIT
Thoughts? Is this correct volt readings since some of the capacitors are larger values than the originals.

Volts don't matter on capacitors as long as UF matches and you are meeting the minimum volt amount. Did you install any backwards or in the wrong spots?

Ahhh. Good to know.
Thanks Chris!

And thankfully I didn't install any backwards as far as I can tell.
Spent a bit of time researching and learning about the polarity of capacitors and triple checked each before soldering them in.
Played a few games and it played fine.
Just confused as to why I'm getting such high readings (or no readings) on the different volt TP knobs.

What did you use as ground when taking the measurements? A bad connection in the backbox to ground could result in weird readings.

I used the TP2 GND, the braided ground wire as well as one of the power supply mounting screws.

I also noticed that the capacitor size that came in the Great Plains kit for C1 & C3 are larger uf values

C1, C3:
Original = Axial Electrolytic 150uF, 150 Volt
Kit = Axial Electrolytic 220uF, 160 Volt
GPE part number CEA-220uF-160V-RMD

Just adding our Sys11 love...

First a pic of Sadie loving our Cyclone.... our 1st pin.
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Soon Cyclone will be treated to this after it's cleared.
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And we picked up Cyclone's older brother.
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Our Big Guns after some lighting upgrades.
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And our latest, a Taxi that we just finished.
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A case can be made that system 11 games are some of the best in all of pinball!

-Paul

A case can be made that system 11 games are some of the best in all of pinball!
-Paul

Wow! Those look great.

Playfield swap? Will look amazing when finished.

After replacing all the power supply capacitors yesterday, I’m now just realizing I no longer hear the system 11 “bong” when I power up my game.
But the game still plays fine.

Thoughts?
Anything in particular to check?

Also noticed when I press the sound test button on the CPU I only get one test sound that says "JACKPOT"...not 2 sounds like the manual mentions.

Sign me up!

Yeah, I'm late to the game. I just recently signed up on Pinside, even though I've had a #HS and Taxi for years. I just recently got a Fire!!, something I've wanted for many years.

Unfortunately they're all in storage but my profile has pics of the game room I built ten years ago (later sold the house). In the last two months I picked up a #South Park and #AFMLe. Very excited! Even more excited to buy another house and build another, better gameroom.

I have been working on my Fire system 11A MPU and its driving me crazy! I purchased a rottendog MPU board and it seems to work fine but the sound quality sucks, So I had my original board repaired and it work for a couple hours and it fries the 2n6427 Transistors in the switch matrix!!! Does anyone have any suggestions??? The other board works fine, I'm Baffled.

Damage to your switch matrix is normally due to a problem in the cabinet - almost always an intermittent short from solenoid voltage to the switches. Lane Change switches are a common culprit, since they are stacked alongside the EOS switches on the flippers. The Rottendog board may be immune to the problem, but it's still a problem that needs to be fixed. The board isn't capable of blowing its own transistors like that, unless it is severely damaged somehow.

Thanks you so much for the info!! I’ll check it out tomorrow and see what I can find out!!

Got this from the pinball enthusiasts FB group. Thought it was really a cool article that showed the system 11 (and 6803)s' role in pinball at the time. It was to win people back from video games. The strategy worked on me with Taxi, F14, and others.

Sys11's (resized).jpg

I'm missing some sounds on my EATPM so I went into Sound Test and found that sounds 4, 5, 6 and 7 are silent. I haven't spent a lot of time working on sound boards (like, none), so I'm looking for a place to start. The machine powers up with one "bong" which indicates a working sound board.

TIA, Al

Maybe the ROM(s) are bad?

There are different revisions of the sound board. If you don't have the correct one some sounds could be missing. Happened with my Cyclone when I replace the board with a diffetent revision. Lost most of the dracula callouts and a bunch of other stuff. I'll see if I can find some pics and determine which should be in there.

Of course it could be a number of other things too.