I don't have rottendog schematics, which ever fuse is supposed to have the 5v.

5v logic was on f4 and f5 each supplying 9.7v on the original board based on rollergames manual, another 11c

Sign me up

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Thx. Anyone have a Riverboat gambler manual pdf? Surprised I cant see one on line.

I’m guessing you’re new ....

EMs never dropped off. They were always cheap. However as more noooooobs figure out how cool they are, expect good examples to rise in price too, we are already seeing that.

Sys11 pins (with a few exceptions) were all sub $1000 only a few years ago. Then guys like me kept talking them up. Now look what happened. Hahaha.

So in answer to your question - I think the higher prices are here to stay. Of course some less desirable models will drop back if there is a recession, but the sort after models are in thin supply, so as demand increases, so do the prices ....

rd

Not free, but available...

https://ksarcade.net/riverboat-gambler-manual-oem-issue.html

I think it is because of the speaker panel being the same as EATPM.

Any Williams/Bally with Alpha-numeric displays is called “system 11” by most people - Atlantis, funhouse, BOP, Harley Davidson ...

rd

Is Atlantis considered system 11 or Bally 6803?
Or are they basically the same?

Bally 6803. It has a 6803 MPU and that's what counts. There are some Williams parts in the game. Has a sys11 audio board. The 2 companies were merging at that time and thats why that is. I had a Atlantis for awhile and it had Williams system 11 era flipper mechs. I was happy about that, as they are just a better mech then the Bally linears are.

Even the wpcs are like bop and fh

How many EM's do you own?

Looks like 8.

I have 4 friends that also have pin collections and they have zero and not looking for an EM at any price..

Different strokes ...

One of the main things is most people don’t have access to good playing EM games. If you don’t know how good/fun they can be, you won’t want one.

If they came along to O-dins place in SoCal and spent a night playing multiplayer games on his tuned up collection, I guarantee that would open their eyes ... that’s where EMs shine, multiplayer games. Anyone can win - a real leveller.

And yep, I have 8. Unfortunately that’s all I have room for in my setup - I’ve had to sell about 6 I didn’t want to sell. Out of all my 126 pins, the 8 EM pins get more play on a daily basis than any other pins.

rd

I think more people were buying EM's in the 80's then now..That is all I am saying..If I was to buy an EM I really like this one..

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I blew the 5V switching regulator on my White Water. Same part?

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/ptr08060wvd/texas-instruments

Call Rottendog. They were very helpful diagnosing the problem after I described what I did to blow the 5V.

Just picked up my first EM, Surfers , after playing a bunch at D&D pinball and at Pecos . If the game is well maintained, I agree, so much fun. I'm now much more interested in an EM than another SS.

Sorry I missed you rotordave in Tucson (by 1 day). I was on the East Coast visiting family, otherwise I would have been happy to have you and your family over for a meal and some pins.

I've become a much better player after playing short flipper EMs.

Some people just don’t know anything and prefer to keep things that way. :-p

IMO - The difference in price between EM and SS (other than play style) is there because of repairability. Not that EMs are difficult to repair - but they take a related but different skillset. Troubleshooting a solid state can usually be done in minutes - but searching switch over switch over step up over swtich and can take much more time and be daunting to a new user - especially if they can't read schematics (and honestly, that's a waning skill these days).

EX - I have a buddy who's a master at board repair and takes in machines all over. He'll only take an EM in if he's keeping it, and usually that results in a call my way to assist.

Nothing says you HAVE to be a completist.

Which is a shame, since EMs can be fixed with a screwdriver, flexstone/emery board, and a pair of pliers in almost all cases without removing anything from the game--assuming there isn't a catastrophic failure or fried coil.

At the very least, a SS game is going to require a ton of odds and ends, connector parts, transistors, ICs, sockets, soldering iron, logic probe, multimeter, whatever, just to cover as many failure points as possible.

You maybe correct but some of us myself included can't make heads or tails of the ladder diagrams, and I think I am a fair troubleshooter.

I'd say that's the understatement of the year! You're troubleshooting skills and willingness to help are invaluable here. Thank you for all you do.

I'll admit, I'm still a pretty lackluster too when it comes to relay ladder logic, but I can usually "guess and check" my way through an EM game without too much trouble. SS games make my palms sweat whenever I have to break out the soldering iron.

You can join if you sell me the shadow

I create schematics as a smaller part of my job, and I hate trying to figure out EM schematics. I get them, but they do not present the same way I'd expect them to so I have to switch the way I look at them a little.

That's my problem, but I don't what I am missing to make things click.

Added another system 11

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After all the help you have given me and others, if you have a schematic question send it my way and I'll help as best I can.

Still need to get my system 11 Riverboat gambler to boot Checked all fuses now need to get motivated to start checking next area.....connectors on pcb?

First step would be to check all test points on the power supply board. Maybe sure you have a good 5V otherwise the MPU board won’t boot. Any corrosion on MPU?

Battery corrosion is my first guess. Can you post a picture of the MPU board?

As kermit24 mentioned, I hope you just have a 5v problem.

will do...I have all other voltages except 5v....I need to see why it not getting 5v to power supply board. It s a new rottendog PS and all other test point voltages look good.

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I have a rottendog board in my White Water. I blew the DC to DC Converter and Switching Regulator Module.

Same issue. No 5V until replaced.

It looks like this:
5v.jpg

MPU board looks great. Though, I would go NVRAM as I had done with my whole collection, where possible.

I'm not a fan of the Rottendog PS, but I believe they have a lifetime warranty. Though, if you just bought it from a resale shop, there should be a warranty through them.

What is wrong with the original Williams power supply?

sign me up!

I have a Taxi. It's a game I was playing when it first came out in 1988, i was 17 at the time.
This game is BY FAR the most resulted pinball IMHO.
Taxi is one of the fastest Sys11 pinball created.
I also have Sys11's direct descendants with a WPC-Alpha FunHouse and a WPC-DCS Star Trek: The Next Generation.

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Desoldering of the old RAM and soldering of the new IC socket for the NVRAM would be needed. 6116 NVRAM will be fairly easy to install if you have the soldering skills

Which one is your favorite?
What is the best system 11 game?

Its A friends game and he just bought it this way. dead and no boot. So dont know the history. If I had a norigial PS I would swap and see if its the issue.

The original power supply creates the 5v from the 12v. I believe the Rottendog power board does as well. I would like to see a picture of the board to see if something burned. I cannot get to the schematic, so you may have to email Rottendog for help.

That is a helluva nice Taxi! Except for some coin door wear it looks perfect! Taxi is a pin that I have always wanted, but I've never been able to find a decent one for the right price. People seem to think they're made of gold or else they're ratted out.

I'm going to look at a Dr. Dude and a Diner this weekend. My Sys 11 cred could be getting a boost!

Without showing favoritism to my children BC!

pic soon.

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It's linked off their website isn't it? https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/846ba2_15de10e9decb43a6b5eb4ba275564747.pdf

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No 5V? Check your u191.

See my previous post.

PTR08060WVD
TEXAS INSTRUMENTS

pic soon.[quoted image][quoted image]

@billsfanmd, If 12v and -12v test good, looks like I would change U3 - MC34167

Either from https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MC34167TVG?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtqO%252bWUGLBzeHjEr4HqwwtH

or
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/search.asp?pg=1&stext=MC34167TVG&sprice=&stype=&scat=

Are C1 and C3 are puffed up? If so, I would replace the 100uf with high voltage ones. This is for the 100 and -100v for the display.