I think you are correct but the best guy to ask is Pinsider G-P-E (Great Plains Electronics)

Pm him. He'll know for sure.

Hey fellas, and gals... I need to buy a system 11B mpu, working...

I’m building a Transporter the rescue from scratch, I have almost every single piece except the MPU the left and right ramps, and plastic set.

Me and another fellow have taken many many steps on getting the plastic set reproduced, it won’t be long until we have all of the photo shopping and vectorizing finished.

Please let me know if you’ve got anything I need, thank you

Love to see the plastic reproduction process - actually love to find someone to reproduce some plastic ramps!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/rotordaves-route-66-odessy-is-underway

rd

Freeplay40 will soon start on the left and right ramps!

The crossover ramp is already made and in stores.

The plastics have taken all summer, I think maybe spring we will have a first print???

Exactly. It's functionally the same transistor, but it doesn't blow up instantly if a higher-voltage wire accidentally touches its circuit due to a fault on the playfield. Just a little more robust, and a slight bit of insurance against ignorant folk working on the game with the power on.

I've asked before about them, but I think FreePlay40 was too backed up - someday I hope to be able to get repro TMNT ramps...!

hehe...I'm always backed up! Working to complete the Pinbot/Jackbot pieces then will move on to Black Belt and The Transporter ramps.

Hearses are purpose built to haul wood boxes. It’s a perfectly logical choice for a pinhauler.

If you ever get to the point where you are itching to make some *other* ramps, I have a TMNT that could use some!

Hi guys,
Does anyone know is there someone who can change the sounds on a system 11 millionaire ( i believe it is 11a) , speech and or sound rom?

On Whirlwind I have been getting locked balls kicked out automatically. I asked on here and the first suggestion was to replace the 3 lock switches. I did that and played a few games without issue. On the last test game I was going to play sure enough the balls kick out. So about the same regularity prior to the new switches. It hasn't mattered if there are one or two balls locked.

I set up both 1 and 2 balls locked and triggered each switch on the rows and column that are shared with the 3 lock switches. I did this multiple times. None of them triggered it to kick out the balls. One thing to note is that when it kicks out the balls it just kicks them out. If there is one locked and I drop another into the lock area (as if the next highest switch is triggered) it will say "ball 2 locked" and then kicks out the next ball. So at this point I don't think it's a lock switch activating and causing it to kick out.

I'm finding that the black drop targets (part #03-8749, the ones that have opto tabs) on games such as Earthshaker and Riverboat Gambler are prone to breaking right at the thin part on the very bottom where the reset plate pops them back up. The plastic they're made of is unaffected by SciGrip solvent, the one I use to repair ramps, so that's no use. Has anyone had luck with using crazy glue to fix these, or are they made of one of the plastics the CA glues don't work well with? Yes, I can buy new ones, just don't want to if I don't have to.

It’s a lot of time / discussion/ effort to try various repairs when these targets are very cheap to just replace. High likelihood the repair doesn’t hold and you are back where you started. Lots of targets available.

I Have a System 11b CPU/Driver board from my Bad Cats that worked great for ten years before some old alkaline battery damage took out the sound section. Trying to get an idea as to what this thing might be worth.

Thanks,

Alan

Likely it had damaged U41 and/or U42 and/or any of the yellow SRC parts above the battery pack holder.

Definitely, I can see damage on U41 and SRC 2 and 5. This board should be repaired by an experienced tech. Need a value in it's current condition.

As is value is tough to put on it, especially without a picture. Some boards are more damaged than others. I like having spare boards so I suggest asking ChrisHibler for a repair estimate. I repair my own, even as time consuming as it is sometimes but it worth having an original board.

I’ll give ya $200 for it

I really need a system 11B folks

Sold, it's yours. I'll throw in the shipping as well. PM sent.
Thank you, I appreciate it.

Alan

I have a system11c board for sale that is in need of repair. It has a transistor blown out and some general corrosion. It is not from battery leak, it must be from airborne something else. I don’t know. The transistor got smoked from a sling that got stuck on and went before I hit the power off. I have detailed pics of condition. Make a reasonable offer if you’re in the mood to repair. I will ship inside Canada for free next Tuesday. Other than that, I will ship for exact cost to any other take . If no taker here quickly I’ll put it on market.

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So I got myself stuck again. Was trying to get the last 2 coils to fire on my cyclone and now it won't boot. Replaced u28 and got the coil 8, which was just a flasher, to work. Was probing to see why the knocker (7) wasn't firing and I must have jumped something trying to probe the transistor. I get a solid red on the left led and that is it. Sometimes it will start to flash like it is booting with "factory settings" but then goes blank. I read a little on the blanking circuit, but can anyone help me diagnose where to start?
Please and thanks to anyone willing to help.

Strangely enough it is now booting after a rest. I guess power supply? Anyway now I am trying to get the knocker to work. I get a pulse at q30 but the middle leg is no signal pulsing low but I think it should be high pulsing low?

Any techs with somr advice? I swapped u 19 to be sure it wasn't that. The input to u19 sol7 is low pulsing high like the other solenoids and the one pin is solid high. The output for sol7 low pulsing to no tone. In attrack the output is solid low like the input and the other pin is high like it should be. The transistor and predriver seem to test fine with a dmm. Not sure where to go next.

That would indicate that there is no power on the coil, coil winding has a break in it or a break in the wire from the coil to the Cpu 1J-11 pin 8.

Hmmm. The flasher does not work on the other side of 7. Does that make it a problem on the aux board?

It might be R-3 on the aux board, or a cracked header pin on 5J1 pin 2.

Gotcha! Thanks.

Latest addition added today

My System 11 row is taking shape - now i just have to find a HS and a SOF to round out my top eleven 11’s.

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I went to my location today and the display was out again, so it was time to change C30. I did that and the display is now working when I power up, which is the good news. The interesting side is that in the two times I power cycled it, the knocker sounded both times. There are no other errors that it is showing, and was something that only ever happened previously when the display failed to come on. It's not an issue in reality as long as the display works, but if I can make it stop I'd prefer to.

Then add another 19 and you’ll have all of them!

rd

That’s an awesome ambition. Going to be a grind that’s for sure!

Then you can truly be Completist !!

rd

HS found and brought into the gameroom today. I really just wish i wasnt OCD about lining up based on order of release. I have to shift EVERY other sys 11 down 1 to make room for this

I dunno. I like order of release, but I'd also want to group like ES/WW and Taxi/Diner together.

That’s also a good method - which i had originally considered. I just like seeing the evolution of the machines, like when they changed cab designs, coin door styles etc.

When I moved into the new house I put all 30 of them in order of manufacture. Lol. Just for shits and giggles.

Now 10 of them live in my “competition garage” for the World Sys11 Champs, so the order has gone by the wayside ...

rd

I have 15 in order of release - just brought home one right smack int he middle and threw it on the end... I just moved and finally got everything leveled, tested, and working - I'll wait for a few more before I do a major machine shift!

GIMMIE DAT HS! I've been looking for one for a while now. I'd like to find a project one. Awesome line up by the way.

I am currently replacing the components for the +100 and -100 volts on the power supply board on my Dr. Dude. The display stopped working (F1 always blows) and I’ve been using the pinrepair site to guide me a bit and checked all the things they recommended to localize the issue. What puzzled me a bit is that they don’t mention replacing the 150 uF 160V electrolytic capacitors (C1 and C3) along with everything else. As I understand it, electrolytic capacitors have limited lifespan of around 20 years so replacement would seem to me to make sense. So my question is - is there a reason not to replace them?

The capacitors in my Dr. Dude are axial, but I have only been able to find radial ones so this is what I bought. My (admittedly limited) knowledge of capacitors tells me it makes absolutely no difference if they are radial or axial. Am I missing something?

No reason not to, but the smaller capacitors are more prone to leak sooner. Here is what Great Plains Electronics suggests for 11B and 11C power supplies. It is never a problem upping the voltage rating on a new capacitor.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=W12246-PEC-KIT

I think its just good PM to replace all electroytics while you are in there. I bought all the caps in bulk from GPE - using his kit description as a reference. You can use radial - just will need to extend the lead to the right through hole (they have polarity).

Can anyone tell me what that tan Loctite-type stuff is that Williams used on all the threads on System 11 flipper assemblies? It looks and acts like a cross between Crazy Glue and mud, and it's on all the threads in the base, the bushing screws, coil stop screws, coil bracket screw, and EOS switch bracket screws.

Wait till you try to take out the playfield posts from the T Nuts. Oooooooofffffff!!!

rd

I am looking to buy Big Guns in the near future.
Any advice or recommendations?

I haven't seen any listings for it in awhile.

Good song.

Pin is fun too.

rd

No joke. I have to just keep the soldering iron running while disassembling a system 11 playfield. Otherwise I break all the posts and screws

That's actually never a problem anymore. Once I snapped a few when pulling them out of Earthshaker several years ago and started heating them with a soldering iron, they come out like butter. This hard crap on the flipper base threads is like a whole 'nother animal though.

Ouch. Wish I would of thought of the soldering iron. I snapped several re-habbing my Whirlwind.