(Topic ID: 232539)

System 1 problems


By hockeymutt

6 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 17 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 months ago by hockeymutt
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    #1 6 months ago

    Hey everyone, picking up a system 1 pin. Game boots but after turning the power on the system create a constant "horn" like sound that will not stop. Sounds like the end of period sound at a hockey game. It will eject balls but flippers do not work but drop targets do. Registers players but that's it. No acid damage and connectors look fine.

    My background 12+ years avionics repair/ helicopter mechanic and have repaired a few arcade games in the past. This will be my first pin.

    Thanks for all the help!

    #2 6 months ago

    http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/ This is the site you want for help with system one. Or pinwiki also.

    #3 6 months ago

    Watch this video for 1st time power on instructions:

    I know you've already turned it on but this is a good systematic approach

    #4 6 months ago

    Edit upon further review of the Board there is acid damage on the CPU board. Instead of spending hours repairing this board which replacement would you use? I would really like the 4 in 1 flipp board but would rather not spend that type of money so looking at the Ni-wumpf CPU and maybe the rotten dog power supply. Don't think I'll need a new power supply but wouldn't hurt to replace it.

    #5 6 months ago

    Connectors are a serious concern with these (esp with battery damage) and anything that gets rid of the interconnect is a good thing. That's the main benefit of the pascal board. They are also rock solid and can be used in other games.

    If you know your powers supply is good then grabbing a rottendog, swemmer or a ni-wumpf will save you money. Be sure to recrimp the interconnect or replace it.

    All are good choices. They are not magic though, connectors and other issues still need to be addressed for it to be reliable

    #6 6 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    Connectors are a serious concern with these (esp with battery damage) and anything that gets rid of the interconnect is a good thing. That's the main benefit of the pascal board. They are also rock solid and can be used in other games.
    If you know your powers supply is good then grabbing a rottendog, swemmer or a ni-wumpf will save you money. Be sure to recrimp the interconnect or replace it.
    All are good choices. They are not magic though, connectors and other issues still need to be addressed for it to be reliable

    Yea have corrosion on the connector right below the battery pins on order. Still haven't figured out the horn sound when powered on. Hoping it's the corroded connector. Got the game to coin up and kick out balls but nothing from the bumpers or flippers. Can get the numbers on the score to match to rise. Score will scroll and occasionally scroll from 0 and change to 8 and then they reset to zero. I have no 5 second delay when powered on

    #7 6 months ago
    Quoted from hockeymutt:

    Yea have corrosion on the connector right below the battery pins on order. Still haven't figured out the horn sound when powered on. Hoping it's the corroded connector. Got the game to coin up and kick out balls but nothing from the bumpers or flippers. Can get the numbers on the score to match to rise. Score will scroll and occasionally scroll from 0 and change to 8 and then they reset to zero. I have no 5 second delay when powered on

    no delay usually means slam tilt. Easily bypassed with a jumper

    #8 6 months ago
    Quoted from Cheddar:

    no delay usually means slam tilt. Easily bypassed with a jumper

    Yup that was it jumpered c2 game came to life. Reflowed some traces that did not have continuity. Now all my flippers, lights and drop targets work game coins up but will not spit out second ball or keep score. Also the popper doesn't pop. Making progress

    #9 6 months ago

    That "Horn" sound is probably a solenoid transistor locked on. You could unplug the sound card, or else turn down the volume and see if it goes away

    #10 6 months ago
    Quoted from songofsixpence:

    That "Horn" sound is probably a solenoid transistor locked on. You could unplug the sound card, or else turn down the volume and see if it goes away

    Yea unpluged the sound card and it's gone. Need to find what transistor now

    #11 6 months ago

    Before you go digging into the solenoid board, I would recommend first repinning the connectors and see if that resolves the problem.

    It does sound like you are going to get the MPU working, but if you are going to buy a replacement, I recommend the Ni-Wumpf version 2 (the newer board). Has several good features, including an "Attract Mode"

    #12 6 months ago
    Quoted from songofsixpence:

    Before you go digging into the solenoid board, I would recommend first repinning the connectors and see if that resolves the problem.
    It does sound like you are going to get the MPU working, but if you are going to buy a replacement, I recommend the Ni-Wumpf version 2 (the newer board). Has several good features, including an "Attract Mode"

    Yea that's the one I'm thinking. I have good voltages at the board and power supply. Tested the transistors and believe I have found q29 closed to the 3rd leg constantly. Says 1.5 ohms to the center leg. But doesn't really make since because the drop targets reset as they should and this is what q29 controls. I'll order 2 new connectors today. How do you guys feel about the solder ones? Seems better than the molex versions and I wouldn't have to buy a crimp tool.

    #13 6 months ago

    The connectors are key in System 1s. I have been guilty of thinking way too much about things before coming back to flaky connectors. You can get the MPU-Driver board connector on eBay. It isn't cheap, but it may save you a lot of time.

    #14 6 months ago
    Quoted from hockeymutt:

    How do you guys feel about the solder ones? Seems better than the molex versions and I wouldn't have to buy a crimp tool.

    I personally would repin the existing connector. There is something satisfying with starting with a connector with broken and tarnished pins, and replacing with nice, new, shiny ones. Then again, I have the crimper, pins, and Molex extractor tool that you would need.

    My personal experience with a solder type connector - the results were not pretty. It worked, but is an ugly kludge that I am embarrassed about to this day. Of course, your mileage may vary.

    -dave

    4 weeks later
    #15 5 months ago

    So I have re pinned all connectors, game scores and plays but still am getting all 3 tones at once constantly and found knocker coil was locked on. And center bumper doesn't actuauate when hit but does score.

    Checked the transistors they all seem fine have slight discoloration on the chips on the driver board.

    Does this sound like a driver board issue?

    #16 5 months ago
    Quoted from hockeymutt:

    So I have re pinned all connectors, game scores and plays but still am getting all 3 tones at once constantly and found knocker coil was locked on. And center bumper doesn't actuauate when hit but does score.

    This is a bit funny - the pop bumper scoring switch is actuated by the pop bumper. As in, if you put in switch test, you would get the pop bumper switch to register by pushing down on the ring - not by pushing the skirt. If pushing the skirt activates the score, then it is wired wrong.

    Quoted from hockeymutt:

    Checked the transistors they all seem fine have slight discoloration on the chips on the driver board.
    Does this sound like a driver board issue?

    Possible the driver board, but if you were looking at the transistors, then you would be talking 4 of the 8 as having failed. That would be a pretty rare failure.

    I recently had a driver board that had a bit of corrosion on the edge-connector header. It didn't look serious - just slightly dull, or matte colored. But it was enough to prevent sufficient contact. As a result, the drop-target reset coil locked on. My suggestion is to check all the edge-connectors are both the driver board and the MPU.

    #17 5 months ago

    songofsixpence yea went pin for pin when I repinned the connectors. I did re tin the pcb connectors when I did some repairs on the pcb. I'll just re tin the driver board now.

    My thought is the same with 4 out of the 8 transistors being bad. I used my dmm and they checked fine.

    All drop targets reset and score. I've gone through every switch and checked for opened and closed contacts and they're all open as they should be.

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