System 1 problems

Edit upon further review of the Board there is acid damage on the CPU board. Instead of spending hours repairing this board which replacement would you use? I would really like the 4 in 1 flipp board but would rather not spend that type of money so looking at the Ni-wumpf CPU and maybe the rotten dog power supply. Don't think I'll need a new power supply but wouldn't hurt to replace it.

#5 5 years ago

CHD

Cheddar

GoldenStatePin

Lodi, CA

11y 117K 5,181 17 10

Connectors are a serious concern with these (esp with battery damage) and anything that gets rid of the interconnect is a good thing. That's the main benefit of the pascal board. They are also rock solid and can be used in other games.

If you know your powers supply is good then grabbing a rottendog, swemmer or a ni-wumpf will save you money. Be sure to recrimp the interconnect or replace it.

All are good choices. They are not magic though, connectors and other issues still need to be addressed for it to be reliable

#6 5 years ago

???

hockeymutt

Pinside member

Quoted from Cheddar:
Connectors are a serious concern with these (esp with battery damage) and anything that gets rid of the interconnect is a good thing. That's the main benefit of the pascal board. They are also rock solid and can be used in other games.
If you know your powers supply is good then grabbing a rottendog, swemmer or a ni-wumpf will save you money. Be sure to recrimp the interconnect or replace it.
All are good choices. They are not magic though, connectors and other issues still need to be addressed for it to be reliable

Yea have corrosion on the connector right below the battery pins on order. Still haven't figured out the horn sound when powered on. Hoping it's the corroded connector. Got the game to coin up and kick out balls but nothing from the bumpers or flippers. Can get the numbers on the score to match to rise. Score will scroll and occasionally scroll from 0 and change to 8 and then they reset to zero. I have no 5 second delay when powered on

#7 5 years ago

CHD

Cheddar

GoldenStatePin

Lodi, CA

11y 117K 5,181 17 10

OP
Quoted from hockeymutt:
Yea have corrosion on the connector right below the battery pins on order. Still haven't figured out the horn sound when powered on. Hoping it's the corroded connector. Got the game to coin up and kick out balls but nothing from the bumpers or flippers. Can get the numbers on the score to match to rise. Score will scroll and occasionally scroll from 0 and change to 8 and then they reset to zero. I have no 5 second delay when powered on

no delay usually means slam tilt. Easily bypassed with a jumper

#8 5 years ago

???

hockeymutt

Pinside member

Quoted from Cheddar:
no delay usually means slam tilt. Easily bypassed with a jumper

Yup that was it jumpered c2 game came to life. Reflowed some traces that did not have continuity. Now all my flippers, lights and drop targets work game coins up but will not spit out second ball or keep score. Also the popper doesn't pop. Making progress

#9 5 years ago

DMD

songofsixpence

That "Horn" sound is probably a solenoid transistor locked on. You could unplug the sound card, or else turn down the volume and see if it goes away

#10 5 years ago

???

hockeymutt

Pinside member

Quoted from songofsixpence:
That "Horn" sound is probably a solenoid transistor locked on. You could unplug the sound card, or else turn down the volume and see if it goes away

Yea unpluged the sound card and it's gone. Need to find what transistor now

#11 5 years ago

DMD

songofsixpence

Before you go digging into the solenoid board, I would recommend first repinning the connectors and see if that resolves the problem.

It does sound like you are going to get the MPU working, but if you are going to buy a replacement, I recommend the Ni-Wumpf version 2 (the newer board). Has several good features, including an "Attract Mode"

#12 5 years ago

???

hockeymutt

Pinside member

Quoted from songofsixpence:
Before you go digging into the solenoid board, I would recommend first repinning the connectors and see if that resolves the problem.
It does sound like you are going to get the MPU working, but if you are going to buy a replacement, I recommend the Ni-Wumpf version 2 (the newer board). Has several good features, including an "Attract Mode"

Yea that's the one I'm thinking. I have good voltages at the board and power supply. Tested the transistors and believe I have found q29 closed to the 3rd leg constantly. Says 1.5 ohms to the center leg. But doesn't really make since because the drop targets reset as they should and this is what q29 controls. I'll order 2 new connectors today. How do you guys feel about the solder ones? Seems better than the molex versions and I wouldn't have to buy a crimp tool.

#13 5 years ago

DRL

QuietEarp

Pinside member

Stroudsburg, PA

11y 87,300 708 9 26

The connectors are key in System 1s. I have been guilty of thinking way too much about things before coming back to flaky connectors. You can get the MPU-Driver board connector on eBay. It isn't cheap, but it may save you a lot of time.

#14 5 years ago

DMD

songofsixpence

OP
Quoted from hockeymutt:
How do you guys feel about the solder ones? Seems better than the molex versions and I wouldn't have to buy a crimp tool.

I personally would repin the existing connector. There is something satisfying with starting with a connector with broken and tarnished pins, and replacing with nice, new, shiny ones. Then again, I have the crimper, pins, and Molex extractor tool that you would need.

My personal experience with a solder type connector - the results were not pretty. It worked, but is an ugly kludge that I am embarrassed about to this day. Of course, your mileage may vary.

-dave

4 weeks later

#15 5 years ago

???

hockeymutt

Pinside member

So I have re pinned all connectors, game scores and plays but still am getting all 3 tones at once constantly and found knocker coil was locked on. And center bumper doesn't actuauate when hit but does score.

Checked the transistors they all seem fine have slight discoloration on the chips on the driver board.

Does this sound like a driver board issue?

#16 5 years ago

DMD

songofsixpence

OP
Quoted from hockeymutt:
So I have re pinned all connectors, game scores and plays but still am getting all 3 tones at once constantly and found knocker coil was locked on. And center bumper doesn't actuauate when hit but does score.

This is a bit funny - the pop bumper scoring switch is actuated by the pop bumper. As in, if you put in switch test, you would get the pop bumper switch to register by pushing down on the ring - not by pushing the skirt. If pushing the skirt activates the score, then it is wired wrong.

OP
Quoted from hockeymutt:
Checked the transistors they all seem fine have slight discoloration on the chips on the driver board.
Does this sound like a driver board issue?

Possible the driver board, but if you were looking at the transistors, then you would be talking 4 of the 8 as having failed. That would be a pretty rare failure.

I recently had a driver board that had a bit of corrosion on the edge-connector header. It didn't look serious - just slightly dull, or matte colored. But it was enough to prevent sufficient contact. As a result, the drop-target reset coil locked on. My suggestion is to check all the edge-connectors are both the driver board and the MPU.

#17 5 years ago

???

hockeymutt

Pinside member