(Topic ID: 92586)

System 1 Gottlieb chime unit


By Spektre

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 18 posts
  • 6 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by newmantjn
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    #1 4 years ago

    Can anyone with a System 1 Gottlieb chime unit:

    http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/s1chime1s.jpg

    1. Tell me the part number for the coils used.
    2. Measure the voltage supplied to the coils.

    Thank you.

    #2 4 years ago

    I have a Sinbad with the original coils. The wrapper has the part number of A-17876.

    I am unable to measure voltage since the machine is in pieces at the moment.

    [edit]: Here's a chart with some more information, which includes wire gauge, windings, and resistance.

    http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Gottlieb_System_1#Solenoids_and_Relays

    #3 4 years ago

    Voltage is the same as all the other coils, 25VDC.

    #4 4 years ago

    Thanks for the information, I appreciate the time. That makes the malfunction harder to diagnose.

    The coils are the correct part number A-17876. They ohm out correctly on the bench.

    Applying power from a 24V supply to them however does not make them chime as they should. Two chime weakly and one not at all. Very strange.

    #5 4 years ago

    Not to ask the obvious, but how are the coil sleeves? Are the plungers binding in the sleeves?

    Another possibility - I had a Gottlieb EM with week and/or non-existenent chimes. The plungers were sitting too low in the coils. I've seen chime boxes where the plungers rest on beer seal or little rubber grommets to slightly raise them up in the coils.

    #6 4 years ago

    Not so obviously here. I bought the unit used and have not tore it down to check yet. Should it not function well, it's probably monetarily better to return it instead of rebuilding it.

    The plungers do rest on a foam pad.

    #7 4 years ago

    Is there something that's making contact with chimes that are muffling them? Do the grommets need to be replaced? Is it a single chime bar that isn't working, or all three?

    If you flick the end of each chime with your finger, does it sound like a chime, or does it just make a *thunk* noise?

    #8 4 years ago

    I just bought a refurb kit from pbr. I'll try it out.

    No, the chimes and rods look clean. The sleeves were coated with fine black dust-dirt.

    Flicking the chimes with my fingers causes a nice chime ring.

    All chimes seem weak but the lowest tone chime very rarely even hits. Watching the plungers in action, the chime kit seems to be supposed to work in the following way.

    Steady state OFF is sitting down on some decent looking beer seal.
    Steady state ON is sitting up with an air gap between the top of the plunger and the chime bar. I assume this is by design so that after striking the chime plate it is allowed to ring (can anyone confirm this?)
    Transiently when turned on, the plunger overshoots its steady state on position to strike the chime bars. This is happening weakly for 2 of the chimes and not at all for the lowest pitched one. For the lowest pitched one the plungers flies up but never strikes the chime. It's steady state ON position appears to be the same as the other two though.

    The coils themselves look clean and unburnt and ohm test out to spec.

    1 week later
    #9 4 years ago

    Well, the refurb kit was not helpful. Same response as before.

    Since the coils all test fine and 3 failed coils that all have the same in spec resistance seems unlikely, I have to assume this unit perhaps is made to operate at higher than 24-25V?

    #10 4 years ago

    How tight are the screws that hold the bars? They should only be tight enough to hold the bars in place, and not enough to dampen the sound too much.

    As pdman mentioned, the coils are intended to run on 25V. I took a look at the digrams for my System 1 machine, and as far as I can tell, that appears to be the case.

    #11 4 years ago

    No, the bars are fine. I can strike them manually and they give a nice ring.

    I can visually see the operational problem. The plunger seems to fly up quite nicely but does not overshoot its on steady state position. It does not actually strike the chime.

    There appears to be no physical impediment. Powered off they slide easily up to touching the chime bar.

    #12 4 years ago

    Are the solenoids upside down? They should be in the top half of the chime assembly, rather than the bottom half.

    #13 4 years ago

    They are in the top half. The new sleeves have a small ridge that wedges between their plastic assembly (which comes out the side of the unit with the wires) and the top. I winder if somehow it has the wrong length plunger rods?

    #14 4 years ago

    It looks like they're about 2-3/4", though I couldn't get an exact measurement while the assembly was assembled.

    #15 4 years ago

    The plungers are 2 5/8 long. Make sure the plastic tip is the side hitting the chime and the metal end is resting on the beer seal.

    #16 4 years ago

    Have never had this issue but maybe try and double up the beer seal and then see if the plunger hits the chimes.

    #17 4 years ago

    Check your driver board, bottom right corner near the J2 plug. Those 4 transistors are for your ten,hundred,thousand and knocker coils. Make sure they are not burnt, corroded ect. PBR sells them. Also if need be, http://www.pinrepair.com/sys1/, Clay's site will come up under pin repair, he is the best of the best.

    1 month later
    #18 4 years ago

    So I have a fleet of Joker Pokers and I'm working on getting them spruced up. I had this same problem

    1. Rebuilt the original chime unit. New coil sleeves, ohmed out the coils etc.
    result : Little to no improvement.
    2. Swapped out entire unit for another from the fleet. Rebuilt the second unit as well.
    result: Small improvement
    3. Re-pinned the connector to the driver board.
    result: Little or no improvement.
    4. Removed 6 of the 12 fiber washers under the chime bars (they are doubled up)
    5. Ran the nuts down tight against the rubber grommets in the chime bars, but just contacting. The bars still move within the grommets.
    result of 4 and 5 together: FIXED the problem. After 2-3 games, I am very satisfied.

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