I’m new to SS games with a WMS Jokerz that shows signs of needing connector rework. I’m an old EM nut in a whole new world — yikes, what did they do with all those easy-fix Jones plugs? So I’m looking for any advice about which Molex kit or spare parts and tools to have on hand. Might there be one kit that could cover me for most connector issues for this machine, or would I need a shopping list? TIA

Thanks for all the input! Just ran some quick searches and am overwhelmed by the choices. I need to run an inventory of what size/shape connectors are used inside my machine. Then I'll have a better picture of what I may need at some failure point. Jrotten, to your point about cleaning pins: in my wayward youth I worked in engineering and marketing for a connector mfr (Elco) that made what they called square-post connectors (trade name Varipost). They looked the same as these. But waaay too far back for me to remember much else, except that connectors were the achilles heel of anything they were used in, and Molex was THE dominant competitor. Oh, and plating was critical to connectivity and service life. So I'm wondering what's the safest way to clean the pins. Is oxidation a factor? If so, 600 grit risks removing both oxidation and plating. I use brass brushes to clean EM Jones plugs.

Slochar: Again, you make a very valid point. I am having issues principally with lamp boards. One of them: the 5-lamp board (for the UP R/O switches) the connector needs a rebuild, which I can do. But more serious is the copper paths are lifting. I patched it as best I could with copper braid so it works, but it's too fragile and won't last. I can find no replacement boards (The WMS p/n is 5768-12334-00). How would you handle this one?

Will post a pic soon. The PF bell lamps weren't working. I found that lamp board pins were loose, which I reflowed. While in there, I saw that the board had been hacked with a wrong diode and it's lead soldered directly to a pin. So I replaced the diode which caused more damage that I had to repair. I can solder, but I'm not an accomplished board worker -- this expertise looks to be above my pay grade.

When that board fails again, I think I'll try jumper wires first!

I wouldn't try that type either. I looked into at a few conductive pens and epoxies. I cannot see them holding up to pinball service. If the original copper traces and solder failed because of heat, imagine how quickly mere ink or glue would cook away.

Gorgar666: can you recommend an appropriate crimping tool? There's like 5 billion of them!

I'm more than a week late posting pictures of the 5-lamp board two of you asked for. It looks like that one end pin has been replaced; has a flat point on the connector side. It is also loose in its hole, but the connection is still good. Existing hack aside, some of the sloppy soldering reflects where I am on the SS repair learning curve. Any input appreciated.

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These is all very good advice. Surely, I have my work cut out for me. New territory will require new skills set. Reworking trace paths is too intimidating and risky, for me anyway. After reading your posts, I'm preparing for a complete rebuild using a new blank board, all 22 ga. jumper wires, a new 10-pin .156 header, and new push/pull sockets with solder terminals. I may be able to anchor the new pin header to the board mechanically, without soldering-- a longer one with the right pins clipped flush. Doing this would at least save the old board from further damage if I ever need it. I have new diodes, and I can use a different set-up for bulb/socket combos that eliminate those pesky twist-lock sockets and the need for any traces (I don't trust them). I'm counting on my EM experience to guide me to a working SS/EM "hybrid" (albeit ugly) that can functionally, reliably replace the original 5-lamp board and withstand ongoing punishment, with no visible difference on PF topside. I'll post pics of the work as I go. Meanwhile, I'll most likely be back with more questions. Thanks again.

Thanks for the links and recommendations. I would really like to order this stuff, but the 5-lamp board rebuild is turning into a disaster. I haven’t been able to source a breadboard or fiberglass blank that will fit/work. I can’t desolder/remove the header pins. Traces are lifting and I can’t get the kapton tape to stay in place (I missed the class on how to use it). I did manage to replace the copper braids with 22awg jumpers and correct the errant lamp holder trace. Now need to reinstall the board and test now. Would there be a shop that can rebuild boards like this?