Left one is burnt, right is questionable. Do you have another fuse? If so turn on the game first and then touch the fuse to the fuse holder. Do you hear any coil locking on?
The coil is stuck and not making noise anymore because it isn't moving. Turn it off and move the coils by hand looking for a stuck of dragging plunger.
Once I stroked the center eject then powered it back up. I could then uSe the fuse and it’s the left kicker activating
Quoted from Nikrox2:Center eject stays down when stroked
Sounds like this needs some work.
Quoted from Nikrox2:I could then uSe the fuse and it’s the left kicker activating
Cut and insulate the thin wire off of the coil.
Tomorrow find some more 2.5 amp fuses and replace F-2 and F-4 on the power supply. Then rerun the solenoid test, all coils should work except for the left kicker.
I’ll check this on lunch tomorrow hopefully.
I rechecked and although it has never showed signs of trouble the center eject once pushed down very slowly went back up.
Looked to be sure switches weren’t closed on this left kicker, so confused as to why it’s stuck on?
Quoted from Nikrox2:I rechecked and although it has never showed signs of trouble the center eject once pushed down very slowly went back up.
Needs a new sleeve and clean/polish the plunger, then it will work like new.
Quoted from Nikrox2:Looked to be sure switches weren’t closed on this left kicker, so confused as to why it’s stuck on?
It just happens sometimes, 30+ years old electronics. Shit happens.
Well got up early to get the fuses - with no Radio Shack, this was a task! Wal-mart had one 2 1/2 A fuse! Advance Auto, Home Depot, Auto Zone - no one had this size, let alone Slow Blow. So got on line and ordered them from Arrow, $6 for 10 and free over night shipping.
I take it I can put one of these in both the # 4 and # 2 locations?
I will use the one I did get today to check the coils test, then re-post. With any luck, if everything will work, then I can take out the board.
This is for the coils, as the switches are probably still non-functioning until the transistor is changed out?
Over the weekend I'll take the one plunger out and clean (may need help in finding the sleeve, although I did get about 4 or 5 sleeves with my rebuild kit. These looked similar to what I've used on the rebuild of the ball plunger but these were smaller, maybe that's why they sent those? Again, once I take it apart, I can see if this is what those were for, so I may have what I need)
Between you and wayout, I'll get this thing back to playing condition in no time - well, hopefully.
BTW - this is one of my keeper machines, so all help is greatly appreciated. When I get help on my older machines that I'm fixing to sell, I try to let everyone know.
For persistent fuse blowing problems, make some fuse breakers.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/making-and-using-a-fuse-breaker
6b484d2c1e4695dd9c4750c5e624c1e00fb81618 (resized).jpgQuoted from Nikrox2:$6 for 10 and free over night shipping.
Not a bad price.
Quoted from Nikrox2:I take it I can put one of these in both the # 4 and # 2 locations?
Yep.
You should buy yourself a early Christmas present, a DMM. You need to check the ohms on the coil that locked on to insure that it's not shorted out. Then you need to replace the diode on the coil with a new one, the silver band facing the red power wire.
Great news. Put the one 2 1/2A fuse I had in the #4 and a 3A in the #2 to check the coils. All working (except the left kicker of course). Even the center eject. No issues there?
To replace the diode on the original issue switch (center drop target coil pictured below still with a gator clip) I can see the band and direction. (Power is the green with yellow?).
But for the left kicker it has two switches that go together as shown in following photo. (You can see both in this photo)
Which way should the band go? And it looks like a diff animal and that one has a small blue capacitor?
And as you can see even though I clipped the wire to the coil right at the tab, it was literally pulled straight before I cut it. So now I need to extend that one. Conductor size / type I should use?
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgQuoted from Nikrox2:Or were you talking of the diode right on the coil for the kicker
Correct, this coil has been locked on a number of times now. That does damage to the diode, so you need to replace it.
Quoted from Nikrox2:To replace the diode on the original issue switch
I would replace this diode to. It should look like this. (pic below).
switch (resized).jpgYes. We’ve put it on wrong then When I found the one loose wire a month ago I clipped it to where the other green wire was. The diode was off and I left it but it played.
Then when we did the soldering we kept it at those locations and soldered the diode to the spot where it was shown in the photo
So those need changed out. Wow. Thanks
Ok all done except extending the one conductor. (And putting the board back in). I have not landed the other end of the diode until I extend the cable.
I will pick up a dvm tomorrow and check the coil before i do that and report back.
Update. Conductor extended and diodes replaced as well as the fuses. Board has been repaired (thanks to a special pinsider!). Received yesterday. Hope to put it in sometime today. Keeping my fingers crossed .
Weird but now I have a left kicker staying on. Looking back at where I had to put in a new diode and had to add some wire to even connect - someone had taken the coil apart and had it turned 90 deg. So the part the tabs are on were so close to the bracket I thought that was the issue and shorting out.
So I removed and turned it correctly. Removed the added wire. Reinstalled the diode and landed the wires.
As it’s hot all the time I removed the wires and tried touching them to the opposiste tabs but that didnt work..
Anyhow. I’ve looked at both the switches on the kicker area (activation) and the switch under the playfield (score?). All seem open
Any suggestions ?
Quoted from Nikrox2:I removed the wires and tried touching them to the opposiste tabs but that didnt work..
You can't switch the wires on a coil that has a diode on it. This pic of yours is the correct way the wires need to be connected. The red wire is the power wire and it must be installed on the same side that the diode band is. Reversing the wires causes a dead short thru the diode when the coil fires, this will damage the diode and the drive transistor.
pasted_image (resized).pngAs all the others had the power coming in on the left side , when I turned the coil to get away from the bracket back to the original orientation , I went ahead and turned the diode and connected to that side. Both power and the striped tip to the left. (When I did try just touching the wires back to the location as Shown on the photo - I did not turn the diode back.
So - flip the power back to the right , and a new diode with the tip to the right
Or stay to the left side and put in a new diode?
Appreciate the help!
Here is a couple of pics to try to clarify what I mean. It doesn't matter which way a coil is mounted, it doesn't matter which way a diode is installed, but it DOES matter which way you mount the wires when there is a diode on a coil. Always put the power wire(s) on the silver banded side of the diode.
coil 1 (resized).jpgcoil 1 (resized).jpgcoil 2 (resized).jpgcoil 2 (resized).jpgCorrect I called it the striped tip. But again. Keep that and the power sane side. So keeping it on the left doesn’t matter. Good it now matches the others (although you can see in that original photo a small piece of the green wire so don’t know if when someone turned the coil also wired it diff or if it came that way? Oh well. On the left and power aligns with silver band / tip.
Still getting hot coil as if there’s a stuck switch. (Note - this all occurred prior to me turning the coil and rewriting )
Quoted from Nikrox2:Still getting hot coil as if there’s a stuck switch.
Turn off the power.
Remove J-18 and J-19 from the cpu.
Take your voltmeter set to ohms and test Q-75, black lead on ground and red lead to the metal tab of Q-75. what do you read?
Quoted from Nikrox2:you can see in that original photo a small piece of the green wire
This really blue with a brown stripe. You can find this on page 2 of the manual. It is also smaller in diameter then the red wire. Just so you know the larger wire(s) on a coil is the power wire.
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