sys 11 GI out road kings

(Topic ID: 227000)

sys 11 GI out road kings


By cubie

69 days ago



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  • 90 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Nikrox2
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There are 90 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 69 days ago

i checked and replaced the fuses. the white-violet and violet wires supplying the rails stapled to the playfield, both have about 5v when checked to ground, but across the 2 i get 0v I've checked continuity from the playfield back to the power supply and everything seems normal. i think all or most my GI are out but the lamp matrix is intact 2 of my pop bumpers are lit and the other 2 are not so i can't say all but those appear to be on a different string. any suggestions would be much appreciated

#2 69 days ago
Quoted from cubie:

i checked and replaced the fuses. the white-violet and violet wires supplying the rails stapled to the playfield, both have about 5v when checked to ground, but across the 2 i get 0v I've checked continuity from the playfield back to the power supply and everything seems normal. i think all or most my GI are out but the lamp matrix is intact 2 of my pop bumpers are lit and the other 2 are not so i can't say all but those appear to be on a different string. any suggestions would be much appreciated

Something is not right there....are you definitely measuring with AC setting on your meter? You should be getting about 6 VAC across the two GI strings, and if you measure either string to ground, still on AC setting, you should be getting near 3 VAC.

Start by measuring this again, at the input to the power supply board, either yellow to either yellow/white wire on connector on 3J9 GI input. From there, one leg of AC is switched on and off by the relay K1, and both AC legs are split up to feed the branch circuit outputs that are individually fused off the board. If you have absolutely no GI, most likely culprits are bad solder/burned trace/faulty connector at the input, followed by bad relay K1 or even burned output connectors on the output side. This at least will give you a starting point to hunt this down.

#3 68 days ago

i checked it on dc before but on ac its 0v across the rails and 1.5v from rail to ground on both violet and white-violet, playing with the connector with it powered on the lights did come on for a short moment suggesting a cold solder joint.

#4 68 days ago

the connector was burnt i replaced it and good as new thanks for the trouble shooting tips

1 month later
#5 31 days ago

Hey Wayout! Need some help - first Go Browns ! we’ll take em when ever we can !! But back to RK’s Picked one up and have brought her back to life about 98%. I have a posting describing the full issue - knock alerts telling me to adjust switch - jet bumpers and L outlane. I’ve cleaned the switches for these adjusted the blades. Even removed the plastic cover on the “snubber” and made contact and the solinoid worked - but when ball drains either side - no nuttin. Any help is greatly appreciated. Love playing this game!

#6 31 days ago

The adjust failure message is telling you the switch hasn't been activated in 30 games. The could be either a: the switch never closes, or b:the switch is shorted closed.

The pop has two switches, one that is the spoon switch activated by the ball hitting the pop skirt. This fires the coil, but the cpu doesn't know about this switch, the mechanical action of the pop triggers a secondary switch known as the scoring switch. Make sure to locate that switch.
As for the outlanes, make sure a ball can close them, also check the other switches in the row or column, another switch elsewhere may have a bad connection or broken wire, not passing the switch signals to the outline switches.

#7 29 days ago

Ok both of the pop bumpers are working but your right again it is not registering points Is it the bottom part of the blades / switches ? I tried adjusting the bottom blades to insure they connect but looks like it does ??? Outlane switches also do not work. At all points or the jet bumper on the left. (Can get it to work but not with the switch ). Looking at the other threads and directions. Two have the green w/ yellow and two have the green with black as their leads? Che

#8 29 days ago

Checking other switches and diodes now but so far so good. But looks like column 4 has 3 of the switches that are showing up.

#9 29 days ago

Ok. You guys are the greatest ! Well Wayout440 is! Reading his past posts and his help here - found the culprit. It was one broken solder joint. But using the info from Wayout I could at least try trace my problem. And there it was! On another column 4 switch with the green and yellow wire. Thanks! 100% now back working wow!

#10 29 days ago

Congrats , and thanks.

#11 28 days ago

Last question (yeah right !). But what size / type / number do i use to replace one of the diodes that is on these switches ? Where the one wire was loose the diode was also unattached on one end. Should I resolder or replace it?

#12 28 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Last question (yeah right !). But what size / type / number do i use to replace one of the diodes that is on these switches ? Where the one wire was loose the diode was also unattached on one end. Should I resolder or replace it?

Test it (diode check or resistance check) while one end is still unattached. If it is not physically broken and tests good, it can simply be reattached. If you have spare diodes on hand, I would just replace them instead of reusing, they are inexpensive if you buy in quantity. I just use 1N4004 general purpose diodes, they are good for almost any purpose.

1 week later
#13 15 days ago

Man I hate to bug you again Wayout but when I found the loose wire I just alligator clipped it and got everything working. Then left it that way. For some reason I thought I’d really fix it and solder the connection. Well the loose wire was at the center drop down solinoid (to go up the roll over ). It still works but now everything on column 4 is out again ! Ugh. Nothing else was touched. Used a ceramic low voltage solder gun. Checked all fuses. Looked thru the harness 100 times before reaching out. Did use the existing diode. Can change it out if that cou

#14 15 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Man I hate to bug you again Wayout but when I found the loose wire I just alligator clipped it and got everything working. Then left it that way. For some reason I thought I’d really fix it and solder the connection. Well the loose wire was at the center drop down solinoid (to go up the roll over ). It still works but now everything on column 4 is out again ! Ugh. Nothing else was touched. Used a ceramic low voltage solder gun. Checked all fuses. Looked thru the harness 100 times before reaching out. Did use the existing diode. Can change it out if that cou

Do you mean all the switches in column 4 are not responding? If absolutely every single switch in the column is not responding, you should perform this test to determine if this is a board problem or playfield problem:

Testing the Switch Columns (all system 11 revisions).
To test the switch columns, do the following:
Remove the backglass and fold down the display to gain access to the CPU board.
Unplug the connectors at 1J8 and 1J10 (lower portion of the CPU board).
Turn the game on.
After the game boots, go to the Test menu's "Switch Levels" test.
Connect your alligator test lead to pin 9 of 1J10. Pin 9 is the left most pin, as facing the board.
On the other end of the alligator test lead, clip on a 1N4004 diode, with the banded end away from the alligator lead. Touch the banded end of the diode to pin 1 of 1J8. Again, pin 1 is the right most pin, as facing the board.
The display should show switch 1 is closed.
Move the diode/alligator lead on 1J8 to the next pin. The display should show switch 9 is closed.
Repeat the previous step, until pin 9 of 1J8. Switches 1, 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57 should be closed on the display as you move forward, pin 1 to pin 9, on connector 1J8. Note pin 6 is a key pin, and should be skipped.

If a particular column number does not display as closed, or is closed without any test lead connection, there is a problem on the CPU board. Usually this is a bad switch matrix column 2N3904 transistor at Q42-Q49.

#15 14 days ago

Great info ! I’ll try to run that down tonight. Thanks again!

#16 12 days ago

Haven’t forgot this one. Had 2 others I had to complete before I can get on my “keepers”. Lol. Once I get back on this one I’ll repost the out come.

#17 10 days ago

Ok. Finally got some time for this one. After checking the following are the only things not working (so it’s not all column 4):
All 4 jet bumpers
L&R kickers

Everything else works. There is a small switch right after the first switch going up the black ramp it doesn’t seem to do anything. The first one does. Makes noise. And the kicker at the end where the ball drops works. So. Not sure on this small one and what it does ? (Or if it has any thing to do with the other items not working )

#18 10 days ago

Use a DMM/Voltmeter to check if power is getting to any of the special solenoid (pop bumpers and slings)

There are 5 switches associated with the ramp, and they might not make noise. Use the switch test diagnostics and the switch matrix chart in the manual to identify which switches are working and which are not.

#19 10 days ago

Perfect guidance once again. Thanks. At least your giving me some direction to go here I’m trying

#20 9 days ago

No power to those

#21 9 days ago

Running thru the diagnostic testing from the switches those did not work during that as well. All other solinoids did work

#22 9 days ago

Sorry to be both blind and stupid. Lol the small switch on the black ramp. That’s #54. “Right Ramp 2 Exit”. Doesn’t seem to do anything.

Back to the real issue. No “Special” solenoids worked during diag.

Now the complete column 4 is not working on the switch matrix Which covers 3 out of the six above.

All was working fine until I soldered the loose wire and diode at the switch for the drop target. (Took all that back apart still it works but still have these issues). Ugh!

#23 9 days ago

Looking at the schematics I “think” my troubles are here ....

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#24 9 days ago

Q48 looks a lil dif from the others????

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#25 9 days ago

Like the front cover is gone ??? Just askin Blind man searching right now. So If any photo or comment is close let me know. Thanks

#26 9 days ago

Trying to tie this all together for my own thinking but possible other newbies.

All items on column 4 out. Looking at the switch matrix then the schematics then at the board then seeing this transistor ?

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#27 9 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Like the front cover is gone ???

That transistor has exploded from high voltage getting on to the low voltage circuit, most likely from someone adjusting a pop bumper switch with the game on.

#28 9 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

Back to the real issue. No “Special” solenoids worked during diag.

I would look at u-49 first.

#29 9 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

All was working fine until I soldered the loose wire and diode at the switch for the drop target. (Took all that back apart still it works but still have these issues). Ugh!

Take a pic of the wires that you soldered and where you had connected them.

#30 9 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

All was working fine until I soldered the loose wire and diode at the switch for the drop target.

Were you soldering with the game power on?

#31 8 days ago

Here’s some shots. Game was off but the two wires (green and yellow). One was loose. As was the diode. For some reason (idiots) we soldered one of the green & yellow to the top with the other end of the diode. This is probably where we fried it. I took that off and reclipped it to where it should have connected. But damage done I guess.

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#32 8 days ago

So by soldering the one green with yellow wire to the top of the switch with the diode - could / would that cause the damage shown?

And although this covers column 4 items I still have the other jet bumper and kickers not working. Will replacing the one transistor fix those as well?

Last but not least - not wanting to bother my guy that has so far helped me on another board issue (as I’m not one to make those repairs ) any suggestions on where I can send this for repair?

#33 8 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

So by soldering the one green with yellow wire to the top of the switch with the diode - could / would that cause the damage shown?

Usually not. When a column and row wire are shorted together, the switch test will show the switch that is at the intersection of the row and column as being closed, even though it is not closed. Looks more like it may have been shorted to high voltage (solenoids).

Quoted from Nikrox2:

And although this covers column 4 items I still have the other jet bumper and kickers not working. Will replacing the one transistor fix those as well?

That could be part of it. If none of the Special Solenoids are working, and you have diagnosed them as having no power, we need to find out why that is. There could be a fuse just for those solenoids (maybe under the playfield, I'm not sure about Road Kings), that may have blown as a result of one of those solenoids stuck on...and that could have been the result of a stuck switch. How it happens: Stuck switch causes solenoid to stay on, which causes transistor to fry, which results in blown fuse. Ideally, a fuse for the power should blow before the transistor does, but that isn't always what happens. Or, it perhaps an open power delivery wire to those solenoids somewhere.

#34 8 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

One was loose. As was the diode.

Could the loose wire have possibility touched the coil wire above before you found it.

Quoted from Nikrox2:

This is probably where we fried it.

This didn't do anything but stop some switches from working.

Quoted from Nikrox2:

I still have the other jet bumper and kickers not working. Will replacing the one transistor fix those as well?

No. You need to let us know exactly which coils don't work, this helps pinpoint the problem.

#35 7 days ago

If you disconnect J-8 and J-10 from the CPU board, then power on the machine. Open the coin door and lock down the middle button. Press the advance button once, then unlock the middle button. Press the advance button 5 times and lock down the middle button right away. You are in coil test now and it is repeating solenoid #1. Now each time you press the advance button one time you will advance to the next solenoid. Go thru and test each solenoid and compare to the manual page #2. There should be 26 solenoids, note down the number of the solenoids that don't work. Let us know what you find.

#36 7 days ago

Doing that now. Sorry. Just seeing the posts.

#37 7 days ago

Oh. Did this before. It’s 17-22 not working per page 25 that numbers correlate to the numbers shown on the backglass

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#38 7 days ago

#12 I don’t see any movement but I hear a slight sound. All others work

#39 7 days ago

And yes I could have easily touched a wrong wire or caused it to happen so this was human error not machine failure. As it was working before we tried to fix her. And I can’t blame any of this on my friend he was just here to solder lol so this is on me I’m afraid.

#40 7 days ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

#12 I don’t see any movement but I hear a slight sound. All others work

A slight clicking sound is fine.

Quoted from Nikrox2:

It’s 17-22 not working

Check F-2 and F-4 fuse on the power supply. One of these maybe burnt.

#41 7 days ago

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#42 7 days ago

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#43 7 days ago

Those are the only fuses I can find on this one At all?? Nothing under the playfield

#44 7 days ago

This is the power supply, F-1 is on top.

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#45 7 days ago

If you look at the top of the power supply there is a label showing all the connections and the fuses.

#46 7 days ago

All look ok. Nothing burnt or broken

#47 7 days ago

You need to test them. Looks can be deceiving.

#48 7 days ago

Do you have a voltmeter?

#49 7 days ago

3rd one down shows for Special solinoids. F4. But it looks ok ??

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#50 7 days ago

Ok. Took out #4. Looking closer it did look “off”. And no I don’t have a meter. So I did have a full set of fuses when i bought the rebuild kit. I put the 2.5 in and powered her up. And it looks like it too is a lil dark now. One on left is old one. Right side is new one

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