I have a Solar Ride that has been playing well for the last several years. It is now starting to act up, and I think is likely due to the incomplete job of repairing the battery damage on the CPU. I was planning on repairing the board, but on closer inspection, I am worried the corrosion has gone further than I originally thought. Pix are below for the front and back of the board. The front looks not too bad and relatively straight forward. But the back shows bubbling on the traces, and I am wondering if this means the corrosion has gone far and wide and it would be a waste of time to try to fix this board.

Can anyone share their thoughts on whether this really can be salvaged, or should I just get a replacement? Thanks for your help.

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Thanks for info, thedefog. Could you please explain what it means to use scotch-brite?

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'll get the scotch-brite and a fiberglass pen and see how it goes.

Thank you for the link to the fiberglass pen.

How do you seal the copper? I've seen people comment that they spray with Krylon, but that seems hard to control.

The clear nail polish sounds like a great idea. Thanks barakandl and Vid.

Thank you all for the great advice - the fiberglass pen is amazing. Luckily, none of the traces were broken, and there was plenty of the edge connectors left that I could retin - after a few trial and errors. I installed sockets for the chips, and replaced all the resistors, caps and the diode in the first picture in my original post. I made sure there was continuity with all the new parts and the traces. I put the board back in, and now it works - mostly....

Two problems remain. When I hit the uppermost drop target, it acts like all 5 have been dropped, advancing the bonus by 5K (instead of just 1K) and activating the kickout hole reset. This is switch 34. I replaced the diode in the hopes it was a simple answer, but had no effect. The problem was not there before I "fixed" the board - just wondering if this might due to a simple error on my part, sw 34 feeds in via the A1J7-6 position, which is in the area of my work.

Also, the left and right rollovers advance the bonus by 3K, instead of just 1K. These feed in via A1J7-2, but none of the other switches that go through this connector have a problem.

I assume this is from my work on the board, so any thoughts about where I went wrong would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!