I replied on your other post but copied it here as well to see if we could get some more help.

I tried to replicate the sneak in on my machine and could not get it to function. I though I had gotten the sneak in before when the ball went into the right orbit lane and then snuck into the trough behind the drop targets. there is a small gap there between the back of the lowest drop target and the wire bracket. You can fit a ball through it. I tried multiple times but never got the sneak in. I also tried seeing if it was sneaking into the xwing during a heroic mode but that did not trigger it either. I really think it is in the gap behind the drop targets but I can't prove it. There is a reed switch on the trough underneath and i thought mine could be broken but mine seems to be functioning correctly in the switch tests. If someone else could check this gap out and see f it creates the sneak in value that would help us both.

As far as the other issues I'll spend some time looking at my manual and see if there is any connection on the switch matrix between those things but at first glance I don't see anything obvious. I know you mention the C2. I just had power supply board issues on my jurassic park and hope you don't have an issue there but it sounds like it might. Mt jp started doing weird sound related things before it failed and then blew out fuses and transistors. I'll do some more digging and please post any updates you have. thanks.

Don't have one, but if you are a fan of your Star Wars trilogy, I saw this puzzle at Target yesterday and thought it looked familiar...

20190413_150454 (resized).jpg

I’m rewiring the x wing and divertir gun, does anyone know what gauge wire I should use?

Bueller?

This place is dead!!!

Can someone with this game hit me back please? I need some part information to get mine up and running!!!

Well I’m still here if anyone wants to discuss this game!

wiring on all coils is 18AWG

i sold my SWT last year but i came across the target stickers that i made in photoshop

in case anyone is in need of new ones these will help

49783789116_d12e2032d3_o (resized).jpg

49784111882_8f6ac2c442_o (resized).jpg

So I just finished up the install on a hole protector that I worked on with Cliffy. He has them available and ready to order!

22001F96-A654-4476-8E70-A5F0D0A64486 (resized).jpeg

Dude that is awesome! I will def get one of those cliffies.

I just bought the game. Looking forward to the sound mod as the audio in this game is terrible. Hoping it will help make it slightly less tinny / a little more full out of 2 speakers.

How do you change the bulbs out of the turret? Any word on anybody working on a color DMD for this? The display looks to be offgassing.

Also: My turret sculpt was broken at the front attachment point. Looks like probably a common issue if anybody happens to have a go-to fix.

What's the correct part number for the Force targets? I've seen ones that look metal but the ones on mine are the kind with the plastic housing. Are they supposed to have stickers on them like the guy made a few posts above or was that just custom stuff?

well it might look as if it has 2 speakers, but only has 1 actually

you can add a second speaker and make it play stereo by adding some components on the board, the board is prepared for it, but the parts are missing because they decided to make it mono instead of stereo

Yeah my post was saying I'm doing that. Marco's has it available as a complete kit for like 18 bucks (well minus the speaker which they also sell)

Does Darth Vader's back and forth head have anything to do with any kind of skill shot?

nope, skill shot was never implemented on SWT

I just joined the club this weekend. My 7 year old son and I have wanted one for a while. This one came fully led’d and with the 3D translite.

3E795C6B-47B1-4A16-94C7-EBC4A5D03B85 (resized).jpeg

B348E80C-3293-4199-8A14-150199EFFEAA (resized).jpeg

57330A7C-1E75-4407-9459-C203E6A5EF1F (resized).jpeg

Nice! I've been thinking this game is a good candidate for LEDs.

AlexSMendes if you're still selling the turret plastic let me know, can't send you PMs.

I used foil to mold the area then filled with baking soda and superglue. Once I was happy with the fill, I removed the foil and drilled the screw hole. I've got some pics over on my resto page. You can youtube tutorials as well for the method.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-wars-trilogy-my-first-restoration-project#post-5691924

You have to unscrew the tubes from the assembly and then push them out. They are held in the tube by a 5/16 ring over the led. Once I replaced mine I reinforced them with superglue, as it was literally just the bent leads holding it together. First good smack by a ball on the LED would break them again...

I have a few pics on my resto page if you want to see what it looks like. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-wars-trilogy-my-first-restoration-project#post-5685571

Not the greatest photo, but I joined the club 3 days ago. Restored by a fellow formerly employed by HEP. 3D translite & the game basically looks almost new. Touched up & clearcoated PF. Nice cab. I'll try to post better photos when I get the chance.
Glad to see this club having some new activity, but I understand the lack of it. Only 2250 produced? Makes me wonder how many survivors are out there.

SWT (resized).jpg

When I was looking for a Star Wars game, I always saw so much attention given to the stern and data east versions, but very little to the Sega one. I’m not sure if that’s due to production numbers or what. But so far I’m very happy that I waited until I was able to find a Sega Star Wars trilogy.
It has great flow, lots to do, great movie tie-ins and is a multiball-fest. It also seems to be loved by kids and casual players too. I’m not saying it’s perfect, but it sure is a fun pin, that you just don’t hear people talk about often.

Has anyone seen a star wars trilogy with a pin2dmd? I know that neither colordmd or pin2dmd have colorized files for swt, but there's the option with pin2dmd to pick 4 basic colors, and it will auto color it. It's not going to be perfect, but I'm debating trying this, and was wondering if anyone else has already.

Today I added my favorite Star Wars character of all time, IG-88, to my trilogy pin. It was pretty easy and I’m very happy with how it turned out. I also pivoted the one flood light to highlight him better.

7C33E2BF-DBF8-415A-AABA-EE124C7050BC (resized).jpeg

46F39AE0-20C8-49B8-9E35-8F14BD5F009A (resized).jpeg

BFF920D1-309C-48C5-827A-4F96B3428A96 (resized).jpeg

FA7AE22C-1439-4098-AED6-162A4F1FFD5B (resized).jpeg

Just saw a SWT sale pending ad in ny for 4k. It didn't look in amazing shape or anything, is this not way out of the normal range?

Yeah, normally. They usually only go for that much if in fantastic condition from what I've seen.

Thanks to cliffy for turning my snaggle toothed sarlac pit into a cold steel carbonite forge!

20200729_104720.jpg

20200729_110126.jpg

Does anyone here happen to have detailed pics from when they disassembled / reassembled their x-wing mechanism? I noticed that mine has something taped under the cannon, and I'd like to assemble it back to factory.

Does this help? https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/star-wars-trilogy-my-first-restoration-project#post-5685571

Thanks! I had actually looked through your thread but missed the pic showing the underside of the x-wing mech.
You mention that its a reed switch riveted to it? I'll have to research how a reed switch works. I imagine they had to take it off to work on it or replace it, and then couldn't rivet it back on, so they just taped it up.
Thanks again for your help.

xwing mech (resized).JPG

Yup, you can see in that pic it had two rivets holding it on. I drilled them out and then used some low profile bolts to refasten a new one, rather than new rivets. Works great and they aren't in the ball path anyways.

Tape probably isn't a good option as it could interfere with the magnet. This thread has a good breakdown somewhere on how reed switches work. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/diy-repair-20-10293-reed-switch

Thanks for the info. Every once in a while the x-wing ball launcher gives me a bit of grief, either by not firing the ball, or the Luke heroic mission not recognizing the jackpot shot when successfully done. It doesn't happen all the time, and I'm not saying it is for sure the reed switch, but it couldn't hurt to get it attached more properly.
I don't have a way to properly rivet it back on, so I was already thinking two low profile bolts might be the best way to go. I'm glad to hear that it does indeed work.
Thanks again.

No problem, glad it helped! That luke jackpot shot is tough!

Watching with interest because I am having both of those problems as well. And occasionally, the x-wing never moves at all while the DMD gives me the following info.

IMG_6030 (resized).jpg

Sadly I haven’t gotten to working on my swt lately, as I recently bought a robocop that I’ve been working on.
But, I did get around to putting a pin2dmd display into my Star Wars trilogy, and I’m loving it. Now, there’s no color file for this game yet. But I really think the stock colours that the pin2dmd puts in look way better than the stock dmd. And we can change what 4 colours it uses, just not how they are used, so there is some options there. I’ll likely keep it this way for now, but will explore More color options in the near future. I just wanted to share in case anyone else wondered what it might look like. Plus, compared to colordmds, pin2dmds are pretty budget friendly.

3B1A7A33-9A76-45EA-A761-EC3B4DE19F91 (resized).jpeg

94A4F547-C1E4-4206-B026-BC4907F313BA (resized).jpeg

B5B6865F-9CE2-495C-B19A-543900E34F7F (resized).jpeg

Wow! That looks really good, especially with no idea when colordmd is coming out.

Oof. I might need this is my life.

I actually hooked up a 2nd speaker simply by tapping into the 2 wires on the other speaker. Is it stereo.......no. Does it sound better. Yup. Plus it is way easier than pulling out the sound board and soldering all those components on to create the stereo amp.

I also did two speakers. I put some Polk 4”s in. Did it in series as they are 4ohm. Also replaced the 8”. It does make the mono sound as good as it can for what it cost.

I thought about adding in a 2.1 amp to power the three channels, but I don’t think it needs it.

I just installed my 3d translite I grabbed on eBay. Very happy and so grateful to have found one. Besides waiting in a file for Pin2dmd my machine is complete!

mine had treaded studs on the underside for easy replacement.

I actually developed the template for this one for cliffs. Glad to see someone else enjoy the guard!!!

FYI, I had problems with my reed switches ....a long time ago in a post far far away (page 2 owners club)( sorry). For the xwing reed switch I have used stick on velcro pads I bought at lowes and cut them to size. The first set lasted for two years. It recently "unstuck" and I simply replaced the stick pads. I felt like riviting and screwing on the switch had a chance to damage the other components and required a perfect position in an imperfect design. It was initially a temporary fix while I played with which position activated the internal magnet best, but it held so well I stayed with it. Hope this helps!

Special Video Mode!!!!!!!!

In the service bulletin, It mentions a special video mode. For the last few years I have searched for what this was. I thought it might be a special midnight mode or once every 100 plays mode, but I had no real idea and never seemed to activate it. There didn't seem to be anything about it online. Then.... this morning I searched again and found a message board on pinside from six years ago where a review of the game mentioned in one sentence how to activate it. I won't spoil the surprise, but here is how to activate it.....

Hit FORCE targets to activate HURRY UP mode when BOUNTY HUNTER is selected for VIDEO MODE. Shoot the HAN SOLO hole to start. Then, Hold down BOTH FLIPPERS and BALL LAUNCH button. Special video mode will then start.

It worked for me this morning. Have fun!!

Thank you to Metalthrashinmad for the original post.

Need help with my x-wing. Coil works, but both coil wires and a reed switch wire have been “repaired” so to speak. The x-wing will not rotate properly - granted, my machine is not fully back together, so is it just catching on something or do I need to replace something?

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

image (resized).jpg

@ drummer 94

Hopefully you have fixed this, but if you haven't I think I had a similar issue when I did work on my x-wing. If I remember correctly, there is a screw just beneath the x-wing support box above the plastics that hold the device to a rod that connects to the motor beneath the play field. Loosen that and realign it before tightening again. I may be confused and the screw might beneath the playfield as well, or there is a second screw underneath the playfield. If that doesn't work let me know and I might be able to help you trouble shoot it.

Hi all,

I’ve got pretty much everything working well on my SWT. All fuses are good. Diagnostic tells me to check switches 35 and 36, which is the X-wing. The X-wing is loading and firing fine. My issue is drop targets 18 and 19 don’t go down to allow me to take out the Death Star. Any suggestions on resolving this one?

Do the drop targets go down smoothly when the ball hits them during normal play?

Just asking since I vaguely remember having a few issues with my drop targets. One of the first issues was replacing a drop target that broke. While removing it I trashed the spring. I cut one of the others in half and split it between two of the targets. That created too much tension and targets would not drop the right way. I stretched the springs to release some tension and they started working correctly.

I don't recall having any switch or coil related issues with the drop targets so I'm not much help there. But, i'll try to look at it more if the springs are not your problem.

The targets go down and pop up smoothly. Part of my restore involved cleaning the drop-target bank and replacing all the springs. Taking out all the tie fighters to start multi-ball is working correctly.