Swords of Fury
Williams, 1988You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider snyper2099.
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I have a proto SOF. It was my 3rd pin. The roms have a different checksum but I have no idea if there are any gameplay differences.
I have made some changes to make the game a lot more difficult.
Removed center post.
Installed Lightning flippers. (makes the left lock shot very hard)
Removed the acorn post directly to the left of the upper play-field flipper.
It is VERY hard to rollover the score now (9,999,999). Before I made these changes to SOF, I could do it on 2 balls.
Quoted from diesel64:The center post is there for a reason, namely to cover STDM from the upper horseshoe. Doesn't removing it add a lot of frustration to the game?
No, my game is level and I don't ever recall having a horseshoe SDTM in the 1,000 times I've played it. The ball always hits the tip of the left or right flipper on a successful horseshoe shot.
Quoted from Hellfire:LOL you must be much better at the game than i am. Ive only gotten to around 7-8 million but my kid spanked my ass and rolled it more than once lol.
You can adjust alot of the bonuses menu etc to also make it harder to make a crazy score or roll the machine.
I personaly like this machine with the center post, on F14 and other games youre used to going after every chance to hit the ball. but on this machine the center post makes you select the shot becouse sometimes not letting the post rebound the ball makes you lose it as well.
I understand all of these facts but once I removed the post and added shorter flippers to the game, now it is a real challenge. After you play pins daily for the better part of 8 years, you get good enough and you want your games to still hand you your ass or you will never get any better.
Quoted from Finrod:Another rules question-- I couldn't figure out how this worked back when I wrote the rulesheet for it, but maybe someone has figured it out. What controls the lights on the raised plastic area on the top right of the machine? It seems semi-random other than if it's on the second or third light, and you hit the center ramp enough times, it advances back to the first light, but the rest of it I've found no particular explanation as to how it works. Sure, it starts on the first light on every ball, but I don't know what makes it advance to the second or third.
The upper horseshoe shot/switches change those lights.
Quoted from thedefog:I'm in! Doing a restore job. Any advice on quirks this game has, other than the upper PF drops?
Take your time and removed everything for cleaning. It's a lot of work on this game but it is well worth it. I like the clear ramps freeplay made... I also play mine with lightning flipper and no rubber on the center post to make it a much more difficult game.
Quoted from thedefog:Lightening flippers on this one? Really? I put them on my Sorcerer and it made sense, but this game has a lot more precision as far as aiming at outer areas. Hmmm... I'll definitely try it if I find the normal size too easy. I think I may remove the center post all together on this game too. Thanks for the suggestion.
It is primarily because I find the lock shot on the left with normal flippers to be a little easy once you find it. Also, getting to multiball never gets any more difficult. Lightning flippers makes that shot a LOT more difficult and multiball is more rewarding.
Quoted from OwenKhan:Interesting... be that the case, has anyone tried messing with the mechs to force only three ball multiball? Making multiball harder to start seems good in this case, scores rolling over and all...
Put lightning flippers on the game and remove the center post rubber. Makes it MUCH harder to roll. Completely changes game strategy.
I used gels on mine and every single person that plays my game comments that the displays look amazing. Been in there for 3+ years.
Quoted from Nihonmasa:Nope, but I am 100% sure it’s not the display.
I did this test to confirm it: (yes it’s bad to plug/unplug while power is on but...)
boot up machine, have misIng digits as usual
Remove all connections to display
Display stayed completely disconnected from the machine for 10 mns
Replugged display => all digits were there
So it clearly is on the board side that i have an issue
Sounds power supply related. Can you test for (+5) and voltage at the power supply right when you power up the game and then test again after it's been on for 10 minutes, checking for a difference? I suspect when it first powers up, you will see a lower supply.
The new display should only need 5VDC to operate and I suspect there is a problem that resolves itself as the game warms up.
Wouldn't hurt to try and locate a 5VDC test point on the new display as well. Not certain there is one but you can probably find a place to check it.
Since you are using a new LED display, the game no longer needs HV for the displays... You can remove that fuse on the power supply if you like. It will run a bit cooler and the power plug supplying voltages will be stressed much less, having less tendency to char and become brittle.
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Des Moines, IA