(Topic ID: 66091)

Swords Of Fury owners Club Fans Also Welcome

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • 1,650 posts
  • 245 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 59 days ago by Blackbeard
  • Topic is favorited by 116 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

2 key posts have been marked in this topic

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #192 Link to @Freeplay40 's thread detailing replacement ramps. Posted by Freeplay40 (9 years ago)

Post #880 CPR link for mirrored backglass, new plastics, etc. Posted by KevinCPR (6 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Nihonmasa.
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#1085 5 years ago

After months looking for mine, I finally got it!
It was waiting for me in Switzerland, lost in the Berner oberland, in a barn.
After some hours of work it's back and running (managed to negate any corrosion issue, some time later it would have started to damage the board...)

Display 1 is dead, new one's on the way.

Jakusu: I am sending you a PM.

I'll update this month in some time, as I intend to give this machine a full overhaul I'm lucky enough to be able to do paint and to have a friend that can clearcoat it. Playfield's mylar's still there but will be gone, but the usual places do need touch up. Mini playfield is quite worn though, so it'll be either a full decal or a full repaint (tricky).

This has been a filpp I've wanted for a long time, and I really am glad I found one here!

#1086 5 years ago

Quick question:
Anyone knows why Shield is spelled Sheild in the left drain?

#1092 5 years ago

Hey there,

Quick question: I have set up my SoF to Free Play but it does not spit the balls still in the « power » zone when I end a game.
Is this normal or am I missing something?

It was working fine (spitting them between each game) when it was on credits.

#1097 5 years ago
Quoted from mrossman5:

If you would like to have the balls automatically kick out after each game, you need to change the multiball setting to hard in the settings. By default, it will keep the ball locks.

Awesome thanks!
Works just fine now

1 week later
#1107 5 years ago

Received the speaker panel from jakusu and I really like the design! Goes very well with the game without overdoing it.

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#1108 5 years ago

Hi guys,

Me again.

Having an issue that I can't solve so far.

When I got the game, screen 1 (top left) was dead.
Bought this as a replacement:

http://www.ecflipp.fr/en/afficheurs/3125-display-2-x-16-digits-sys11-pinball.html

Issue I am facing:
When switching the cabinet on, the first 3 digits of each screen are missing. After some time the first one comes back, then the second, then the first and then it's back to normal.
So that clearly means that there's a component that needs to warm up.

I also changed the ribbon cable with a brand new one, so we can rule this out, as well as the screen I guess.

Any idea on what could be the culprit?

#1111 5 years ago

Nope, but I am 100% sure it’s not the display.

I did this test to confirm it: (yes it’s bad to plug/unplug while power is on but...)
boot up machine, have misIng digits as usual
Remove all connections to display
Display stayed completely disconnected from the machine for 10 mns
Replugged display => all digits were there

So it clearly is on the board side that i have an issue

#1113 5 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Sounds power supply related. Can you test for (+5) and voltage at the power supply right when you power up the game and then test again after it's been on for 10 minutes, checking for a difference? I suspect when it first powers up, you will see a lower supply.
The new display should only need 5VDC to operate and I suspect there is a problem that resolves itself as the game warms up.
Wouldn't hurt to try and locate a 5VDC test point on the new display as well. Not certain there is one but you can probably find a place to check it.
Since you are using a new LED display, the game no longer needs HV for the displays... You can remove that fuse on the power supply if you like. It will run a bit cooler and the power plug supplying voltages will be stressed much less, having less tendency to char and become brittle.

Hi there, thanks for the feedback.

I checked and it's at 5.06 all the way, straight from the start.
Power supply was also recapped but no change.

At this point I really am suspecting the resistor networks.

Good point for the HV, removed the fuse

2 weeks later
#1129 5 years ago

No come on... Made an order at pinball life 2 weeks ago and those weren't there...

And given the shipping fees they are asking, I am not going to make another order soon.

Anyone is going to buy some and would take another set (the 5 pieces one) and ship it to me in a padded enveloppe if I pay for the set and the overseas shipping?

4 weeks later
#1135 4 years ago

I need to touch up the runic lettering on the cabinet. Was thinking of doing it with the airbrush.

Anyone would know where to get the stencils by any chance?

1 week later
#1137 4 years ago

That depends on the settings.
Of the game is not on Hard, then yes, they'll be carried over.

#1140 4 years ago

Tried to watch the first one but really can't stand his way of presenting and speaking.
Guess I'm too old.

3 weeks later
#1158 4 years ago

Seems fine on the pic, blending with the wall.
Still hating those repro slingshots colors
Where did you get the new upper flipper?

#1161 4 years ago

Hardtop is planned from what I saw on the topic.
Mine is apart right now, sent the playfields to this guy :

https://www.2niro-pinball.com/

Yours look very similar to mine, wear in the same spots
Am also planning to go with the blue posts but red titans to balance colors out.

#1171 4 years ago
Quoted from rottenrobert1313:

So I have a question. I put 89 flasher LED's in the game and when I flip the flippers some on the playfiled flicker on and off real quick. So...what would cause that to happen? I assume it's a diode somewhere allowing the flipper voltage to backfeed a few of the flashers. Just not sure where to check?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/adding-led-flashers-to-system-11-games

1 month later
#1188 4 years ago

Here's all I have

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1 month later
#1191 4 years ago

Got my pf touched up and cleared!
Will look sweet

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1 week later
#1192 4 years ago

Hi guys, putting back my pin together, and wondering if anyone would have pics of the mini pf without the plastics so that I can see what goes where?
Would be very much appreciated!

#1194 4 years ago

Really nice!
Thanks for the pics! Just got back on it today so that's perfect timing

#1195 4 years ago

Putting back mine together and now I am the one in need of some pics

Main playfield only without plastics would be of great help!
Here is the current condition:

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1 week later
11
#1196 4 years ago

And it's alive again!!
Really glad with the result

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3 weeks later
#1200 4 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Beautiful!
Did you use the insert decals on this? I have the set that are top side ink so I wasn't sure how well they would hold up to clear.
And you use a full PF protector right over top afterwards? Nice

Thanks

Nope, all decals made remade with a computer, printed as stencils and then airbrushed.

Yep, cleared and just to be sure the PF protector on top of it. Probably overkill but I want it to stay pristine

Have added 3 spotlights since the above pics in order to light the game a bit more.

#1204 4 years ago
Quoted from dnaman:

Very clever! I also have a PF protector in the wait.
Do you mind me asking, what type of cutter you are using to create the stencils? I have though about the silhouette type devices.

No idea, I am not the one who did it. Was done by Franck Niro.

6 months later
#1236 3 years ago
Quoted from TecumsehPlissken:

could the lighter color be result of sun fade ?

No.
I also swapped with the CPR ones and I do confirm the HUE is off.

2 months later
#1250 3 years ago

Hi guys,
For a while I've had problem with the diverters; thry did not work at the beginning and after a few games they would come back to life.

Now they don't trigger at all anymore.
Any idea on what to check?

1 month later
#1268 3 years ago

I went for a red bottom and transparent upper. Looks nice.

2 months later
#1290 3 years ago

Eurk, 3D printed stuff :-s
I really hope you tested it thoroughly with thousand of chutes, cause I have the utmost difficulties believing it will withstand long term abuse.

But kudos for the try!

#1291 3 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Also - what's the thought on replacing the upper playfield bat.....the seem to be no longer available....use the TSPP one? Does it need to modified?

TSPP and WPT were the 2 options (WPT better for the color) but now even those have become very hard to come accross.

For the shooter spring, no idea. It's not in the manual?

#1297 3 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Like everything we do....you bet...understand the concerns, we never shy away from discussions. Dan and I are engineers by day...one mechanical, the other electrical - so we understand the need for testing and always have the same concerns anyone else would have. Today's materials and printers are quite remarkable - with plenty of data and testing to show how well things hold up...we both own SOF and both have the chute in our pins - and no problems - further the materials we choose were selected for their flexibility and impact strengths - as opposed to tensile & temperature which is not needed here. Beyond that we were able to improve the mount point that fails most often by use of fillets instead of gussets.....the concern over 3D printing parts be no further looked than even the Multimorphic pins (Lexi Lightspeed, Heist...) - did you know their flipper bats are 3D printed? They take a heck of a lot more abuse than this chute would even remotely see....so rest assured - it won't fail....
Matt & Dan
M&M Creations

Had no idea for the P3 bats. Have never seen one in the wild.
So it might be a preconceived opinion will have to try it one day
For the chute I was lucky enough to find a NOS one when I needed one.

#1298 3 years ago
Quoted from Getaway:

Finally... Anyone have a translite? This one is pretty rough. And I'm not a fan of the CPR direct print. It is just way too dark.
https://www.pinball.center/en/shop/pinball-parts-by-game/swords-of-fury/7427/translite-for-swords-of-fury?c=2137

Avoid pinball.center for anything that is print related, period.

#1299 3 years ago
Quoted from pinghetto:Anyone know where to get the wire ball gate for the upper playfield? The assembly P/n is A-12033. The wire is 12-6691. I've checked everywhere I can think of.
Also, I'm looking for somewhere to get updated sound, music, and could ROMs. This game I grabbed today has all proto ROMs. It seems to have missing sounds and music. Not sure what other differences.
Finally... Anyone have a translite? This one is pretty rough. And I'm not a fan of the CPR direct print. It is just way too dark.
Thanks a ton for any help. Looking forward to
Brian

I personnaly stopped looking for wire gates, I now buy brass rods and bend them to shape by looking at pics or along the old one when it is broken and I still have it.
Way more than enough for home use.

2 months later
#1332 3 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

LIONMAAAAN!!! Here's an awesome new product I just came up with:
There are plain old original stock coin reject buttons ... then there are aftermarket coin reject buttons with flat 2-D patterns. I'm taking it to the next dimension -- with these new 3-D Coin Reject Buttons!
[quoted image] [quoted image]
These eye-catching buttons literally pop out at you! They're 3D-printed with multiple filaments, including a translucent red which allows the coin insert light to glow through. For Swords of Fury, they feature a golden lion head -- in honor of LIONMAAAAN! -- protruding from the face of the button.
[quoted image] [quoted image]
Available on my website (https://rocketcitypinball.com) or in my shop here on Pinside (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04796-3d-coin-reject-buttons-swords-of-fury-lionman). (My daughter gets a commission too; this was her idea!)

Idea is great. Will take one if you produce cast versions.
But man, do I hate 3D printing stuff in pinball unless it's100% hidden...

1 month later
#1346 3 years ago

Kudos for making all these parts which are hard to find.

3 months later
#1384 2 years ago

Hi all,

Recently got a SoF with a weird issue that I can't manage to pinpoint:
Drop targets are registered with a huge delay when hit. Thus also delaying their reset.

I thought it was an issue with their opto board: changed it with a brand new one but the issue is still here.

Would anyone have any idea of what could cause this?

#1388 2 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Main(e) thing to do is reflow the connectors on the opto board and the power supply....if it is not a mechanical problem AND the opto's are clean (or it's a new board)....
here's a link as this is a common issue with SOF.... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/drop-targets-on-swords-of-fury-not-registering

Many thanks! Will check the power supply connectors, only stuff from that list that couls clearly cause that.
Everything else has been done or checked

#1390 2 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Main(e) thing to do is reflow the connectors on the opto board and the power supply....if it is not a mechanical problem AND the opto's are clean (or it's a new board)....
here's a link as this is a common issue with SOF.... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/drop-targets-on-swords-of-fury-not-registering

Solved by reflowing everything amd doing a cap kit

1 month later
#1393 2 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Well wait a sec, don't the drops have some delay built in? Each time you knock them all down and advance the multiplier, they stay down longer the time around, to make it more challenging to reach the next multiplier level, no?

Quoted from byurick:

Yes but this is different. It’s more like the cpu isn’t registering the drop and there’s a delay before it gets acknowledged. Having said that I reflowed solder on the header pins for the power supply and am playing right now to test. So far so good.

Same here, it was solved this way.

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