Love my SOF. Restored mine and have a backglass instead of a translite for it. Clearcoated playfield makes it play super fast. Plus added some other custom things to it.

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I just made them in photoshop on a stone background. Printed them on sticker paper, and mylared over them. Cut them out and stuck them on. Have get good sticker paper tho. they didn't stick good at first, so I used some dry adhesive I got when I worked printing automotive dash panels. that stuff sticks like cement. those decals arn't coming off easy.. Those targets are the stock ones with the game.

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Not screen printed. Clay sells a glass version. It's basically a glorified sticker put on a piece of glass, but the colors are vibrant and looks better than my bulb melted translite did.

I think that's it. Prices are like $200 or something. Overpriced for what they are, but saved me the time of scanning on my translite and sending it to John Greatwich to make me one.

actually I totally forgot to scan that in when I restored it. It was kind of a hurry up rush thing, and didn't get a chance to scan it. I completely forgot I didn't until it was already halfway put together, and then it was already too late.

looks great, but also looks like it's going to stick out pretty far. Like JP gun far. Can't even tell you how many times the JP gun has shot me in the coin purse.

that looks like a booby trap for me to ring my coin purse on. I'm getting Jurassic park gun flashbacks all over again.

if it's discolored paint it. Holds up fine and looks great. paint the color then clear it. I painted mine silver.

I restored and clearcoated mine with no problems. All system 11's are hit or miss. Depends on how the lacquer on your playfield is acting. If it's cracking and getting air under it by the plastic. It could be a nightmare. You dont' really know how smooth it's going to go until the first layer of clear hits. I'm restoring a NOS BK2K right now and NOS F14 in house for people. The BK2K turned into an air bubble disaster and the F14 went pretty smooth. So you just never know.

there is a wire under the mini to stop balls from going up the back. It's a one way wire similar to the ball throughs.

My locks work good.

I do have a problem with my 2nd gate on the ramp, the diverter is delayed or slow. I think I need to rebuild it.

if the weld is broken, wouldn't it stop working altogether?

mine had bulb meltings as well. I bought a "backglass" version from Clay. Which is technically a nice printed image fused to a sheet of glass. colors are nice, but wash out a little when backlit. Definitely not the quality that the helan and shadow translites have.

mines tight and works great manually. I think the plunger, sleeve just isn't aligned straight on and hanging up a bit. Or my plunger is magnetized, hence the slight delay in that second game response time.

I did restore mine, but I forgot to scan in the playfield before putting it back together. Haven't got a SOF playfield in to restore other than my own. So it's one game I do not have the scans for. Which is a shame because mine didn't need much for touchups at all.

I don't even have time to restore my own games. Too busy restoring everyone elses playfields. But if you want it restored. I am taking new work. And this time i'd be sure to scan it in when it's done.

filthy lionman

2500? that's the highest one i've ever heard of changing hands. was the playfeild restored or something?

I love mine and it's restored and clearcoated. But there is no such thing as not for sale. Stupid money is always heard and considered.

there isn't a way to tell, since there isn't any blue areas under legs that couldn't be faded. But it would be tough to fade the cabinet the same all the way around. Might be different batches of ink. But if you look. the halftoning effects, are different. So I think they are different printings. mine looks like the one on the right.

on the plus side. that game can be parted out to save 10-30 others.

I have that shirt. the best part of that shirt is what's printed on the inside of that shirt.

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that reminds me. I should crank out the clear ramps I bought and do the custom work I wanted to do on them.

SOF plays awesome when clearcoated. I restored mine, and you can make the lionman ramp from both lower flippers fairly easy. It's great.

yea me too. Unfortunately, in 10 years, i've only had the chance to restore 5 of my games.

your 3X arrow inserts melted? Looks like the flashers were locked on at one time and melted your inserts.

those original or repros? I know marco had a huge stack of originals for the longest time. Until I got my game and needed one. Most of these translites are melted because the backbox board is too close to the translite. Melts little bulb mounds all over the place. BGrestore makes a glass fused version, it's ok, but color bleach out. On mine anyway. I heard he corrected the problem and the newer ones don't bleach out.

that sucks. Sad I missed out on the original marco had. they were only $60 too.

if you do, you will have a divot and the ball can get stuck in the hole you cut out.

seems you are just setting it up for a nightmare to restore in the future. If you are going to do, take it all off. Use freeze spray. then take the glue off with magic eraser and rubbing alcohol. Afterwards just wax it and leave it, so it can be restored in the future. Otherwise you may end up making so terrible, it's unrestoreable in the future.

prototypes have red lamp boards under the playfield. Not backbox boards.

with the backglass. I do the same thing as I do for all my games. take out all the bulbs except 6-8 of them. Keep them spaced out and do NOT use LED's. LED's look like shit on backglasses. to many hot spots. 7 regular bulbs take less power than a filled backbox of led's anyway. cuts down on glare, darkens up your translite some.

colors are not the deepest on this game in general.

I think those are the final instruction cards. Can't get more medieval than that. Actually they should be on parchment.

nah, that board will work. Those are some heavy traces too. Someone had high power going where it shouldn't.

on off switch usually doesn't bust a fuse...if it blows as soon as you flick it on..something else is shorted on. depending on what that fuse drives.

lose the color LED's in the backbox. they look terrible. Other than that, it looks fantastic.

yea, if it's already faded to shit and washed out, your not losing anything with colored LED's at that point. But most BG's look horrible with colored LED's. Sometimes you can get away with 1 bulb in a certain spot to accent something, but for the most part, the colored LED's washes out any art detail that is there. That's why you shouldn't use them for GI's. You lose your playfield art.

i've seen that style..cointaker still sells that model of LED. Does it say 6v on it or 12v? if it's 12v then it's for a car.

well, put them in and see what they do. Won't hurt. If it's 12V it will be really dim. if it's 6V it will look normal. and if it's 3V it will look like the sun.

your targets need to be rebuilt. They are all gunked up. Most SOF need this done. Took me 5 hours to do it, because once I reinstalled them, then I was getting the problem where the vibration would knock some of them down and they wouldn't stay up. Has to be aligned perfectly so the targets don't hit the wood. Take out the bank. Take each target off, clean them off with novus 2, front and back, clean off the bracket. should be like new.

at first, all targets should pop up faster than the ball can get there. Once you hit them all down, you hit level 2. Then they should stay down 5 seconds. Level 3 is 17 seconds, level 4 is 34 seconds and so on. Harder you have your game set, the longer the times go. I have mine set on extra extra hard, because normal is way to easy.

here.

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the long plate really could be anything. all it does is hold that long wire in place and keep it from shifting around. The side plate is just a sqare cut in a piece of metal with a L grove cut into it. Square goes on your lock square. check pinball life, Terry may have some of these.

that's just a standard lock plate, with the lock oval with flat spots so the lock doesn't spin.

i just spray painted and clearcoated my upper mini flipper silver. Because I used chrome flipper bats for the bottom section.

colored LED's for backbox illumination makes Lionman angry.

colored LED's for GI's or backboxes always looks like shit. ALWAYS. I'll have a thread about that coming soon and explain it from an artists perspective and give examples on why it should never be done.

i'm planning for a full write up thread about it. Go into detail and picture examples. It looks worse than people think. I think they are just distracted by the colors and bright shiny things. It's like looking at everything in a photography dark room with a red light. No matter what you look at, everything looks like shit in a red light room. Except maybe black and while pictures. Anything else is going to look like crap. When you cut out the white spectrum, true colors cannot show.

cabinet decals would look like shit on this game. Only do it, if you absolutely have to. Like the cabinet was dragged behind a truck on both sides for a long time. otherwise touch it up.

in all fairness, that blue is a PIA to match. Plus there is halftoning in it. But isn't impossible to touch up.

LIONMAN for WOZ? WTF? What alternate universe is this? You have chosen poorly my friend...very poorly. WOZ isn't worthy to scratch lionmans ass, after he dragged it through his enemies.

similar? that's a stretch. If WOZ played or felt anything like SOF, it would actually be a good game.

make the other switch blade closer gapped, so the ball cannot sneak through without triggering.

i'd go with white rubber, because I do not like the spin that titan and superbands put on the ball. Adds way more spin than rubber really should.

nope always looks like crap, and i'll show you why.

I will. It's going to be a huge writeup with lots of pictures so you can see how colored light ruins the look of all artwork.

technically it's not stenciled and it's not decals.

It's silk screen printed. You can't do half tone dot patterns with stencils.

I really cleaned the shit out of the metal edge of mine and the plastic edges of the drops. helped a lot and mine don't fall down now unless you hit them.

sent a message to order, but had a question about another backglass I was hoping you had seconds laying around I can throw on with this.

OMG, that backbox LED job is absolutely horrifying.

it looks terrible. Use white LEDs and the art will pop and not look like mush.

that's true. And the backbox isn't really that critical. It doesn't effect gameplay. But I have to say, your playfield looks well done. WHich is the most important part, since you have to be able to see to play it. which white is the only one that allows that to happen in a darker playing environment. Playfield looks great and I like the added lighting on the upper field which is always needed because it's so dark.

HA!!! lionman needs no protection!!!!!

titans suck. All those non rubber ones blow serious ass when it comes to gameplay. Sure they look great, but sucks to play on. Especially the flippers. Rubber or nothing.

I guess it depends on how often you play out. If you play at others houses a lot for league and play tournaments a lot. it's a huge change. It's not something you want to get used to. If you only play at home all the time, then it doesn't effect you much.

I like how you did the prismatic drop decals in the colors. Looks good.