Mine has been re pinned & the wires to the connector replaced by a few inches(all same color or would have taken a picture) but followed it back for you and if you start at the farthest pin on the left side of connector I have a Tan color,then Brown , then white/brown stripe, then white green stripe,then red ,then orange and the remaining 4 on the right side are empty hope that helps

Interesting..... thank you! I’ll snag a pic of mine as well, looks repinned but one of the header pins wasn’t soldered well so there a burn

Wanted to pass this along for SOF owners that have, or will purchase, Freeplay40 ramps and Cliffy's ramp protectors....it seems some older Freeplay 40 ramps may have the narrower shoulder - mine purchased in Nov of 2020 - did not.

Through some minor miscommunication between the two parties, the result is the center ramp protector's shoulder catch is too narrow for the wider ramp shoulder of the center ramp. The protector can work - but you'll either have to Dremel the ramp shoulder a bit (about 3-4mm) or modify the protector....since the pin was recently restored - thus the ramp installed - I simply couldn't see kicking up plastic dust in the pin to bother with a Dremel - so I chose modification of the ramp protector.

And yes, both Mark, Cliff & I corresponded prior to this post....

See attached pics...what I did, was Dremel off a portion of the shoulder catch and carefully shape the protector to best match the curve of the ramp. I used some high-strength Scotch double-sided tape and attached the protector to the ramp. Seems to work perfect with little effort and little mess....ALSO be aware that the original post that protector attaches to - did not have a tap for a bolt or thread for a nut - you'll have to replace that post too!!!

Matt
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Until Matt brought this to me I was unaware of changes to Marks ramps but if these will be wider going forward I'll change the design of that upper hook. As for the deadhead post, its 50/50. Some games have threaded. Much the same I found with other games, Williams sometimes used what they had in the bin in front of them. I do try to keep the same threaded posts on hand so ask when ordering if you need to swap yours out. Nice solution to the problem Matt!

So here is my interconnect j7 plug. I removed t he board last night and found the pin that had the burned wire was not soldered good so fixed that, new header and reflowed all the pins on the board.

Here is how my connect was pinned, techumseh had his connector with the pin 10 and 9 switched around. Curious if anyone else has input on their wiring? The manual from ipdb has been only partially helpful

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Here is a picture of mine:
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thanks!

I have a Swords of Fury repro trans. It's really really nice and I'd like it to go to a machine that has need of one. I can do $80 shipped in the USA. Thanks!

SoFury (resized).JPG

Does anyone do a mirrored glass for this game?

Negative

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/announce-swords-of-fury-translite-to-backglass

Not everyone has been happy with it but .....

Cpr does

Anyone have hot tips on how to debug/repair the drop bank opto sensors? I took apart my bank the other day to replace the springs and clean it (was feeling real sluggish on some of the targets) and now I can't get switch detection on the second target.

I verified that the switch still engages at the header cable that plugs into the PCB, removed the coil assembly and tested by manually blocking the opto receivers. All the other four reported as expected, but number 2 gives me nothing. There's no visible damage to the board or any resistors.

Shy of replacing the whole board, what are your suggestions for finding the issue and repairing?

Either by blowing the opto and/or cleaning with >91% iso alcohol (and a lint-less tip) - if it doesn't register in test mode - by manually activating the drops...then the opto could likely be bad and needs to be replaced...the replacement opto is available at Pinball Life and is not expensive....I just sold an SOF opto board (a spare) in which I had to replace 3 of the 5 opto's...takes no time at all....

I'm having an issue where my drop targets don't pop back up. Sometimes they do so I know the coils work. Does anyone know how the game decides when to fire the drops back up? I believe that I can still collect the points for hitting all of them so it seems like the switches detecting hits work.

Clean the optos, reflow the pins on the drop target pcb, reflow the pins on the power supply

Still have issues... rebuild the power supply or replace it

Well rintintim you needed the unobtainium drop target cover for your SOF - well, we aim to please! On its way to you today!

Matt & Dan
M&M Creations

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Looks amazing!

Found this in my wife's nightstand.....Lionman?!

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Thanks for the guidance! I bought some replacement optos from PBL and swapped out the troubled one, but it still doesn't register. Jumping the pins on the header cable *does* register, so it's gotta be something on the board itself. Nothing looks out of the ordinary.

What else could it be, I wonder?

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Next step - since the diodes and resistors are unlikely to fail - you'll want to look at traces for the obvious and then it's down to that driver transistor - I've had to replace one in the past!

Also cracked solder pads on the connector header, on the board. Worth checking perhaps.

And on the power supply

Just joined the club yesturday.

Im having an issue with my upper playfield flipper, it doesnt want to flip sometimes and the flipper itself seems very close to the playfield. I tried raising the flipper and it would not budge. Is there anything else holding that flipper down?

Seems like it could be dragging on the PF.

any help would be great

thanks

It's held where you saw it (the linkage beneath the main playfield)....but it's possible you have either an original or modified TSPP flipper - you can tell if you look along the shaft and see a groove with a C-clip - that's mean to keep the flipper from dragging on the upper playfield and falling down (so to speak).....that groove/c-clip could be obstructed in some way?

Matt

Its stock. It was my game before Paul

Thanks gray

It’s working intermittently now.
Paul is a solid dude, glad to find this gem.
Will most likely put a hardtop on it one day.

Enjoy. Best soundtrack in pinball!

THE FINALE!

I've rejoined the club! A few years ago, I picked up a SoF locally for an amazing price, on behalf of a friend who lives a few hours away. I had it for a few months, spent time working on its issues, and really fell in love with the game -- the theme, the music, the adventurous layout, you all know the reasons. He eventually came and retrieved it -- but not without my securing right of first buyback.

Well, the time finally came this week -- we traded my High Speed and a little cash in his direction, and now LIONMAAAN has returned!

(Funny story, he forgot the backglass & translite, so my family used it as an excuse to buy the CPR backglass for Father's Day. I've heard mixed reviews, and I was torn myself, but we'll see I guess. It's already arrived but I'll be opening it today. I'll eventually get the glass and translite from my friend so worst case I can swap em out.)

Some of you may have seen earlier in this thread that I have coin reject buttons available for this game in my shop (https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1282-rocket-city-pinball/04796-3d-coin-reject-buttons-swords-of-fury-lionman) ... now that I have the game in hand, I decided to try something a little different -- I made them in opaque teal and printed the lion in a 'steel' color, so they'd match the color & trim on the cabinet, and I LOVE how they turned out. I've added this variety to the listing in my shop if anyone else wants them. Sure, they don't light up since they're not translucent (except for a tiny bit of light that comes out through the hollow eyes), but they really pop.

SoF_teal1_RCP (resized).jpgSoF_teal1_installed (resized).jpgSoF_teal2_installed (resized).jpgSoF_teal3_installed (resized).jpg

I also plan to add my colored posts (probably in the same teal or the light blue others have gotten from me), and I do have an idea for another cool mod that I'll hopefully find time to work on soon ... more details on that when it's ready!

Anyway, just wanted to reintroduce myself to the club; there's one intermittent issue that remains that I might discuss here (or in a dedicated thread later on) after I look around for some info and do some troubleshooting (involving the kickout from the Power 1 lock location sometimes not making it out, and then rolling back in and it thinking I just found Power 2). More on that later, gotta go open my backglass!

Does anyone have a spare left slingshot plastic? Mine has a corner broken off, would like to replace but all my other plastics are in good shape so I don't want to drop $170 for a full new set.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/112055

I'm selling my OEM, but used, set....includes the slings obviously...but the set is $60...

Matt

Thanks Matt. I looked again, all my other pieces are good, I hate to make you break up a full set just for one piece, especially if there's someone else out there who could use it...

So, a delay in switch tests response when you manually drop them by finger?

Sticky slides, not dropping all the way straight away?

Having the same issue and its intermittent. Some games they work perfect and others theres a random delay like you describe. I haven't replaced my opto board but I've cleaned it several times and everything registers properly in test mode.

Main(e) thing to do is reflow the connectors on the opto board and the power supply....if it is not a mechanical problem AND the opto's are clean (or it's a new board)....

here's a link as this is a common issue with SOF.... https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/drop-targets-on-swords-of-fury-not-registering

I see what you did there

Well wait a sec, don't the drops have some delay built in? Each time you knock them all down and advance the multiplier, they stay down longer the time around, to make it more challenging to reach the next multiplier level, no?

SoF prototype playfield, cleared by Neo Skywalker. Lots of differences from production.

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Anyone have pictures of the connectors for the drop target board? My cat got stuck inside the machine today and now this connector (single black/yellow wire) is hanging loose and my drop targets aren't working now. I connected it to each of the three pins on the right side and they don't register when hit, in any configuration.

The answer to the burning question is, my son was playing earlier, got a ball stuck, and tried to open the machine. The lockdown bar lever is sticky/tough so he couldn't release it...and walked away and left the door open. I walked through later, saw the door open, and closed it on the way by (so the cat wouldn't jump inside). Well an hour or so later I was in the vicinity and could hear the cat crying, trapped inside the machine. When I opened it back up he couldn't get out because he was tangled in the wires in the back -- had to get an extra person so we could carefully lift the playfield to get him untangled, poor dude. He's plenty dirty and scared, but fine.

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Here is a picture from mine...

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THANK YOU! I found another loose wire wire with a terminal on the end, hanging down loose, that appears to have been pulled out of the connector when he got tangled up in there. I set it in the 1 position like your yellow one, and the black in the 3 position, and I'm back in business. Thanks!

Oh man that’s a great story! Tragic, but I’m glad the cat is ok, totally something that would happen in my house

Seriously, I'm just glad it was only for a short while -- probably scary enough for only the hour or so he was in there.

I may be about to joint this club!

Gonna put hands on tomorrow. Love the game but gotta check out the condition.

Any advice on things specific to this game that I should look out for or ask the current owner about?