(Topic ID: 245099)

Swords of Fury - Fuse F7 blows

By nibre

4 years ago


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  • 32 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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aux 50V.jpg
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IMG_20190925_171644 (resized).jpg
IMG_20190925_171633 (resized).jpg
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#1 4 years ago

Swords of Fury: The fuse F7 (4 A slow-blow, Aux Pwr Driver Board) blows directly when the machine is started.

The flippers don't work after that (but the electronic flipper sound is heard when the flipper buttons are pushed). According to a repair page (http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index2.htm), the flippers should work but be weak if F7 has blown. But in my case, they don't work at all.

Any suggestions?

#3 4 years ago

Isn't it BR2?

F7 (resized).jpgF7 (resized).jpg
3 months later
#5 4 years ago

So, I finally replaced BR2 but the problem remains. Fuse F7 blows directly when the machine is started.

Any other suggestions?

#7 4 years ago

I removed F4, F5 and F6. They are supposed to be 2A. F4 was 15A (!). F5 and F6 were 2A. I will replace F4 with 2.5A (do not have a 2A at home).

F7 still blows during startup.

#9 4 years ago

I should perhaps mention that when I had just bought the game, everything worked as it should for 5-10 games. Then, F7 suddenly blew.

BR2 is installed properly (can only be done one way because of the unsymmetric placement of the legs). I also tested both the old and the new bridge rectifier with a multimeter and both were ok.

Nothing is connected to J9.

I have not yet removed C-1.

Here are images of the board (before replacing BR2).
IMG_20190925_170741 (resized).jpgIMG_20190925_170741 (resized).jpgIMG_20190925_171633 (resized).jpgIMG_20190925_171633 (resized).jpgIMG_20190925_171644 (resized).jpgIMG_20190925_171644 (resized).jpg

#11 4 years ago

Ok, so I desoldered one of C1's legs and reattached everything.

F7 still blows!

Could it be C2 or R9? Or something further down the line?

#13 4 years ago

I desoldered R9 and tested it: 3.1 kohms (within the 10 % range of 3.3 kohms).
I desoldered C2
C1 was already desoldered.

The same thing happened again: F7 blows directly when the machine is started.

It has to be something else.

BR2 provides the 50V DC (tranformed from AC), right? And this DC goes to the flipper coils, the slingshot coils etc, correct? Could it be a short circuit somewhere along the cables and connections leading to the coils?

#15 4 years ago

No, after the check earlier I put F4, F5 and F6 back.

Should I remove them one at a time and try starting the game? Will that help tracking the problem? Or should I remove all of them?

#17 4 years ago

F4, F5, F6 removed and C1, C2, R9 desoldered.

F7 still blows!

Could it be the rectifier after all?! (both the old one and the new one...)

I measured the old one again with the multimeter:

Red to minus and black to AC: 0.6 Mohms
Black to plus and red to AC: 0.6 Mohms

red/black both to AC (in two ways): no connection

red to plus and black to minus: no connection

red to minus and black to plus: 1.4 Mohms

The old one is CBR35-020W and the new one is KBPC3510W

#19 4 years ago

After desoldering the rectifier, F7 doesn't blow. How could it, there is nowhere for the current to go now.

I also checked the new rectifier after desoldering it:
Red to minus and black to AC: 0.5 Mohms
Black to plus and red to AC: 0.5 Mohms
red/black both to AC (in two ways): no connection
red to plus and black to minus: no connection
red to minus and black to plus: 1.1 Mohms

I really don't know where to go from here...

#22 4 years ago

Ok, when I try a third bridge rectifier, should C1, C2, R9 and F4-6 be attached or should I try without them?

1 week later
#24 4 years ago

I have a new rectifier (35A, 600V) and soldered it into place (the third one I am trying).

F4-F6, C1, C2, R9 removed. F7 still blows at startup!

Tried removing J12: F7 still blows

Put J12 back and tried removing J11: This was a HUGE mistake. Because at startup D16 blows (with a bang and a little fire)! See image.

I will have to replace D16 (1N4003). I have 1N4004 at home. It works just as good, right? Could something else have been destroyed? After cleaning the area, the other components look ok.

This problem is driving me crazy!

D16 (resized).jpgD16 (resized).jpg
#29 4 years ago

I have replaced D16 with a new one (IN4004). I measured it first and it was ok.

Before starting to desolder the components in the green circles above, I did som measuring on the diodes:

D15: appr 500 / 800 ohms (two directions)
D3: 900 / 800
D4: 900 / 800
D6: 800 / 800
D7: 800 / 800
D5: 500 / 800
D22: 800 / 800

But:
D16: 3 / 3 ohms

Could this mean that Q5 is broken?

#31 4 years ago

The kick back coil has no diode and its resistance is 4.5 ohms.

The broken D-16 has been replaced earlier.

I removed Q5 and measured it. It was broken (zero resistance in all directions). (By the way, it was very difficult to desolder it because there are three legs and for some reason they have been made very short during factory soldering. This fact made it difficult to desolder one leg at a time, even while using a solder sucker).

I have put a new Q5 (TIP-36C, which I tested first) in place and now everything seems to work!

I have been playing a few games and the kick back coil has been activated several times without any problems. Hopefully, it stays this way. I wonder though, why Q5 broke in the first place.

Thanks for the advice and guidance!

Finally, Swords of Fury is such an underrated game with great music!

IMG_20191020_153905 (resized).jpgIMG_20191020_153905 (resized).jpg
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