Right flipper(s) blowing 2A slo blo fuse after a game or two. Resistance in the 5 ohm range and matches closely the left coils. EOS switch opens. My question is: if a diode at the coil is shorted or open could that blow the fuse? If so, why doesn't it do it immediately?
What's odd about this problem, this is a recent buy and I went through the fuses to make sure they were the correct value even though I had been playing the game for a few days. When I took that particular fuse out the end separated from the glass so I had a 2A Slo Blo fuse on hand, it was the old spring style fuse. It blew, when I used the more common slo blo I assumed it would be fine. But not so. As I write this, just discovered the rubber attached to the EOS arm was slightly worn and showed continuity to the shaft bracket when the flipper is actuated. Will fix this, however, that assy is not grounded and can't see why that would blow a fuse...

That is a possibility. I will adjust. If there ever was a time I'd like to have a circuit breaker...When I used to build tube amps, we were required to make a "current limiter" before firing it up for the first time. It was a light bulb in series with the hot leg. The light bulb at first would glow brightly, then dim. If it stayed bright, something was wrong. Wish there was something similar to monitor at the fuse location.

Solved the problem. To begin with the spark suppressor cap broke at the cap. Of course you don't see that as the wire is solid and remained in place. So being a Connecticut Yankee and now a Flatlander living in Vermont I improvised until I get my next order in. I soldered and epoxied a piece of desolder braid to the cap. Then I discovered the additional spark at the EOS contact rivet had carbonized then it fractured. What does a flatlander do? He cuts off the head of a copper roofing nail and mends the leaf all back together. Now back to the next "Challenge me"... Thanks for those who chimed in...