(Topic ID: 255074)

Switching out to LED

By Canuck_pinhead

4 years ago


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#18 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

https://www.cometpinball.com/products/1flux-bulbs are literally designed to work with bally/stern games

I love that Ryan even says that running the anti-flicker board with standard bulbs is cheaper than using those bulbs. That's how great Comet Pinball is!

I'm the ultimate cheapy and solder resistors onto each socket, since most games of these era need some attention at the sockets anyway. I've used Seigecraft boards in the past and they work great as well for a plug 'n play option.

#19 4 years ago
Quoted from Canuck_pinhead:

Those are pretty cheap!
Easy to install you say... Come with instructions... Or will I be back here?

Pretty easy. Just install the anti-flicker board onto the corresponding header on the lamp board, then plug in your connector into the board. Use the alligator clip and clip it onto a 5V line (back board GI is easiest). All of the boards are daisy chained to each other.

#24 4 years ago
Quoted from zacaj:

Yeah, seigecraft is definitely the best option.
Well, besides just using incandescents in the inserts

I just can't do incandescent bulbs. They get really hot and aren't that bright. In a lit room, it's hard to see that the insert is even lit. They do fade off/on, which I do like the look of, but they're old dinosaur technology (which one could argue belong in old dinosaur games lol).

#25 4 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

It is the path I took because the sockets needed attention but not for everyone. Lost two lamp drivers which I had to replace due to a splash of solder in a bad spot in one case and a resistor that got bent over near the edge of the playfield that got shorted in another.
The seigecraft boards are the best option for the casual pinhead.

It's not hard, just time consuming. And yes, they can cause problems like you said, but if you take your time, it's definitely the cheapest way to get LEDs into a classic game. Resistors can be bought by the 100s for a few bucks. It's time vs $$$. At $50 for seigcraft boards, it's definitely worth the money, but then again, I'm cheap and I don't mind doing some soldering.

#27 4 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I tried on my Trek, even popped for new 47's which are utter junk and have a huge failure rate. I'm LED guy all the way now, though I go to pains to make it look stock as possible.

Splurging on new incandescent bulbs!

I'll keep my flashers as incandescent, but everything else is LEDs if I can help it. It's one of the first things that I do when I get a game that doesn't have them already. In conjunction with the "Off or On" thread, I would never leave a game on all day with incandescent bulbs. I've seen enough roached backglasses and messed up inserts due to heat from the bulbs.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/off-or-on

#35 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

If your lamp board is riddled with bad SCRs siege raft won’t do you any good. That’s why I just do the full board replacement from weebly or alltek

replacing board components isn't bad if you have the proper tools (desoldering gun IS A MUST). Especially if it's just bad SCRs. Some boards are too far gone (ones that have bad battery damage) where a replacement board would seem more fitting. Like I said, I'm the ultimate cheapy

#38 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I’ve done the resistors, piggy backs and the full board replacement. Since I’m not having to buy these left and right (once a year maybe), I just replace the board and be done with it. Just under $100 for piece of mind. Well worth it.
By the way, I have a stack of semi working to working lamp boards from various early stern and Bally games for sale if anyone wants them. Haha

So THAT'S what you were setting up for! lol

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