Forget diode.

I'd be checking continuity of wires from switch to board in the head. More likely you have a poor connection or broken wire causing you problems.

LTG : )

Have you tested all the switches? Sometimes it's not the switch with the issue, it's one daisy chained to it in the matrix.

I would recommend printing the matrix you posted and checking each switch and checking the ones that work, and x'ing the ones that don't. Patterns form of issues this way, for example three in the end of row may be out, but the rest of the row works, this will say that the forth last switch, which is working, likely has a broken wire from it to the next daisy chained switch that is not working, despite the not working switch appearing to be fine.

31 and 47 share a return line (wht-vio), so that wire could be broken. 57 has no correlation to the other two, so is probably a different problem.

Ok, good work, now you know there are no board issues (other than as Lloyd mentioned, possible connector issues, but it appears you buzzed those out). It could be a cracked header, but I have personally never had a cracked header issue within the switch matrix.

I myself would now look to the daisy chains for each switch. For 57, i would check 41 and 58, as the daisy chain may be broken on one of these to 57. You can check for proper continuity between daisy chained switches of the same row/column by measuring along the row or column wire from switch to switch in the matrix. For the other two, if you are sure all the other switches are working around them, it must be the switch itself. If the above is ok for 57 as well, proceed with checking the switch.

First, make sure you actually hear a “click” when activating the switch arms. Test this with the diode/continuity setting on your DMM. I can’t recall which tabs are for positive and negative, but it matters. Test this first on a working switch, and you’ll see the pattern, when the switch closes, this completes the circuit and you get a buzz, or 0 ohms (or close to it), depending on your DMM. Now test this on the switches with issue. If you close the switch, and get no change, the micro switch is bad, which can happen.

Also, make sure the switch arm hasn’t been bent oddly, in that when depressed it doesn’t move enough to activate the small button on the micro switch itself.

Also, I am curious as to how a broken wire was found for 47, but all other switches in the row were working fine before soldering it back on. Are you checking for the working switch in the switch test and making sure it displays that actual switch when activating it?

The order of the switches, as it relates to physical wiring, is not necessarily the same as the switch matrix indicates. In other words, while the switch matrix would lead you to believe that switch 63 is the last one in the row, 47 may actually be the final switch in the daisy chain for that row.

No problem. More than likely the switches hadn't been used in some time, and the "play" made them work again.

The crane is a HUGE pain in the ass. You have to adjust it with an allen key in the side, and keep playing with it until it stops and activates the switch at both ends. When I shopped mine I spent about 3 hours on the stupid crane alone after it was done.

Just bumping this as my vuk worked but everything else in green blu was out. I guess its good practice to go up and down the matrix column! Thanks!!