(Topic ID: 330231)

Mousin' Around Switch #46 Not Working...Wiring Issue?

By Cobradvs

55 days ago


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Topic Stats

  • 20 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 22 days ago by Cobradvs
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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PXL_20230128_171559318~2 (resized).jpg
D3FB27C5-A20E-4B6A-AF9A-E54857A38E66 (resized).jpeg
Switch 46 pt 2 (resized).png
Switch 46 (resized).png

#1 55 days ago

My game is (and has since I've had it) throwing an error at Switch #46 "Right Ramp Exit". Upon recent inspection, it seemed a solder had come loose. I resoldered it, but still nothing. Wondering if the diode is soldered in the correct orientation, or if the colored wires are soldered on the wrong sides, or if maybe the switch is bad? Any suggestions welcome. Picture below shows the switch and the playfield picture is to reference the exact switch I'm talking about.
Switch 46 (resized).pngSwitch 46 pt 2 (resized).png

#2 55 days ago

Switch should be easy enough to check with a meter.

#3 55 days ago

If it were my game ...
I woukd be replacing that switch , replace the diode and clean up those connections ...
But that's my OCD ...

#4 55 days ago

Easy enough to check wiring in the schematic, but if you think you got it soldered back in the right place (you likely did), you need to run switch test first. Likely just a bad switch.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Accessing_Bookkeeping.2C_Settings.2C_and_Diagnostic_Modes

#5 55 days ago
Quoted from phishrace:

Easy enough to check wiring in the schematic, but if you think you got it soldered back in the right place (you likely did), you need to run switch test first. Likely just a bad switch.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Williams_System_9_-_11#Accessing_Bookkeeping.2C_Settings.2C_and_Diagnostic_Modes

Quoted from poppapin:

Switch should be easy enough to check with a meter.

Ran a switch test...nothing seemed to happen. I resoldered all joints on the switch too. I think I'm convinced it's a bad switch. The part # of this switch is 5647-12133-04, which appears to be discontinued everywhere except some guy on eBay selling them for $30... How do I go about determining an acceptable alternate? I don't mind bending the wire form to fit the game, just want it to work the same.

#6 55 days ago

If you look at the pic of 5647-12133-04 on Marco, that's not the switch on your game. Your game has a mini-micro switch and factory was a standard micro switch. Someone has substituted another switch. Mini micro switch part numbers start with 5747-12693-**. Search Marco for that and find one with an actuator similar to the one in your game.

#7 55 days ago
Quoted from phishrace:

If you look at the pic of 5647-12133-04 on Marco, that's not the switch on your game. Your game has a mini-micro switch and factory was a standard micro switch. Someone has substituted another switch. Mini micro switch part numbers start with 5747-12693-**. Search Marco for that and find one with an actuator similar to the one in your game.

Looks like plenty of similar options on Marco I can find. Thanks for the help! I'll post an update once I try to install the new switch.

#8 48 days ago

Just got my new switch installed...it's still not working. Can any Mousin' owner take a picture of this switch on their machine? I'd like to make sure this is wired correctly.

#9 48 days ago

Well, my "check switch 46" error went away so maybe it is working...as far as I can tell, it has no audio cue in the game so I can't really tell if it's doing anything or not. Going into switch edge test, it does not register. No ideas currently...

#10 48 days ago
Quoted from Cobradvs:

Just got my new switch installed...it's still not working. Can any Mousin' owner take a picture of this switch on their machine? I'd like to make sure this is wired correctly.

Here’s what mine looks like. Similar to your first pic.

D3FB27C5-A20E-4B6A-AF9A-E54857A38E66 (resized).jpeg

#11 48 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Here’s what mine looks like. Similar to your first pic.
[quoted image]

Thank you! Does this switch do anything in the game when you play? Does it trigger a noise? Don't suppose could you check it switch edge test to see if/how it registers?

#12 47 days ago
Quoted from Cobradvs:

Thank you! Does this switch do anything in the game when you play? Does it trigger a noise? Don't suppose could you check it switch edge test to see if/how it registers?

Yes, it triggers a noise, and awards a cheese letter.
In switch test it registers. Right ramp made, switch 46

#13 47 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Yes, it triggers a noise, and awards a cheese letter.
In switch test it registers. Right ramp made, switch 46

Strange... Then what does this switch do in your game? In mine this one makes a noise and awards a cheese letter. I believe this is the left ramp made switch but the right and left lanes both wind up here so I'm not sure.

PXL_20230128_171559318~2 (resized).jpg

#14 47 days ago

Deleted.

#15 47 days ago
Quoted from Cobradvs:

Strange... Then what does this switch do in your game? In mine this one makes a noise and awards a cheese letter. I believe this is the left ramp made switch but the right and left lanes both wind up here so I'm not sure.
[quoted image]

The upper switch (#46 in question) registers the right ramp made. The lower one (#37) registers the left ramp made. It works in conjunction with the ramp enter switch (it sees one, then the other).

For your switch issue, have you traced continuity from the switch to the board?

#16 45 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

The upper switch (#46 in question) registers the right ramp made. The lower one (#37) registers the left ramp made. It works in conjunction with the ramp enter switch (it sees one, then the other).
For your switch issue, have you traced continuity from the switch to the board?

I have not check continuity...i could try that. Oddly tho it seems my switch 37 is registering regardless of which entry switch is activated. Maybe the system will default to activating 37 if 46 isn't activated even if right entry ramp is activated... But my switch error doesn't exist anymore so I won't put too much stake in this but I will check continuity and troubleshoot some more.

#17 43 days ago

probably way off here, but the first pic you posted 'looks' like the positive leg of the diode is shorting the two wires out where they are soldered to the micro switch?

#18 43 days ago
Quoted from Rikoshay:

probably way off here, but the first pic you posted 'looks' like the positive leg of the diode is shorting the two wires out where they are soldered to the micro switch?

It does look that way but there is a small space between them. At least that's how I remember it. Regardless when I resoldered it there definitely is a gap now.

#19 42 days ago

You can also rule out a bad switch if touching the two lugs/wires together with a screw driver registers you a #46 in switch test. If you get nothing, switch is likely ok.

This is where some long alligator clips with jumper wires can comes in handy. Use switch test and the switch matrix chart in the manual to jumper each of the two white/blue and green/blue wires to a WORKING switch using that same wire (color) in the matrix. Whatever of the two jumpers solves the issue, that's the wire that has failed. Alas, it could still be a bad switch but, running a simple jumper wire to each side, will tell you the direction to head without any wasted time. You can confirm with continuity test on your meter.

If it's a wire, you can run a permanent jumper with a similar color wire or, run a new wire and remove the old one.

(This issue can't be the wiring up to the head because your other switches with those wire colors are all working.)

3 weeks later
#20 22 days ago

Future me here... My switch 46 error came back so I decided to give this another go and the solution was so stupid, it's almost embarrassing. First off, the new switch works fine and is wired correctly. I used the actuator (arm) from the switch I took off and when I put it on the new switch I put it on the tabs circled in blue. Because it's so close to the actual switch, the arm wasn't actually pressing the button down when the ball ran over it. I moved it back to the tabs circled in red and adjust the arm slightly and now it works perfectly. It's always the simplest things...

Screenshot_20230303-094234 (resized).png
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