Hi.
I own a SWEP1 since Jan 2018, but I played it only 2 or 3 times, due all the blue posts are destroying themselves.
Ordered them last month. In some days will I replace them and start again playing.
Does the problem of this plastic affects only my pin ?

I find the pinball fantastic. It is the 9th of my collection but I think is great. Totally different from the others: music is great, video is great, playing is really fast, colours are intensive.

I changed the light saber with one of Frank Niro, because the original one was broken.

At work finished will I post some pictures.

The multiball in this FANTASTIC pin is made of 3 balls; right ?

Hi. I bought the mod of niro pinball having problems in finding an original one.

Does someone installed macrolon on the pinballs playfield ?
According to producer declaration the playfield coat is really hard.
Does we have to have trust or not ?

The question is, if you would install the macrolon or not.

Does someone knows if there are some protectors for the two small holes and the big central one ?
I mean something like cliffy protectors.

IMG-20191009-WA0004 (resized).jpeg

Hi. I would try to make a test to verify if the opto switches where the balls "sleeps" works fine.
Sometimes they just need to be cleaned.

For the saber I will replace it. I will post in this days my new saber made from 2NiroPinball.

Hi.
Fuse 112 (Lamp matrix B) blows immediately when turning on the pinball.
Encountered someone the same problem, or do someone has a suggestion in what to check ?

I turned all the lamps into leds, but before having the problem.
I will check all the cable of the matrix searching for a short.

So, no short checking the lamps.
I tested the Power board. It seems the prewious owned repaired while I found signs on LED 8, R296-297,D33 34 35 36.
Tech question: is it normal D33 and D34 bips while using the tester and all the other diodes does not ?
I think I need to change them.

Yes, the board was removed before testing. I studyed how the diode works when tested. I need surely to change those two that bips. I have some capacitor as spare parts, I Will change them too. Thank you for your help.

I changed the shorted diode. Everythigs seems to work good.
I'm not sure of the connections because the test gives me yellow checks to do.
Could someone please post a picture of the connections on the entire power board ?

It was quite simple.
At first you need to buy the saber from F-2NIRO . This one fits exactly the retaining system of the original one. He can buil the saber exactly how you want, in terms of colours, lights game, intensity.
You need to dismount the handle of the original one; mine was not working - there you will fit the electronic of the new saber.
Then you will need to connect this electronic to electricity. I did it using a notebook transformer and the connector into the cabinet.
The last thing is putting a switch exactly where the ball is ready to be launched. That gives the saber the input to switch itselves on.
Another one must be put into the outhole; that gives the saber the input to switch itselves off.
Every time the saber is turned on, it changes colour.
It is simplyer to do than to explain it.
Resut is awesome.

You can do both them alone.
Mirror blades can be done from adhesive mirrors. Simple to apply like good new decals.
The same can be done with art blades. You can do the files simply using picture programs then asking near you to produce good adhesive materials.
You only need to cut them in the upper part, after creating a line to apply them that goes under the playfield.

Suggestion: cover the sides of the playfield with thin felt or you will damage both of them the first time you will rise up the playfield.