(Topic ID: 216453)

SWEP1 Loyal Order of the Gungans Club


By Jive

1 year ago



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  • 101 posts
  • 31 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by ricard2798
  • Topic is favorited by 24 Pinsiders

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There are 101 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 1 year ago

So there doesn't seem to be a club setup for SWEP1, or at least none that I can find. If there is already one, let me know...otherwise, here is mine that I picked up over the weekend. This one has a pretty interesting story behind it, but that's for another time.

20180506_170547 (resized).jpg

#2 1 year ago

there is a reason there isn't a club. The game looks to be in really great shape tho.

#3 1 year ago

You are right, this is not a very loved game, however, I have played and owned much worse! However, I think Pin2K is pretty important far as the history of pinball. Maybe just a Pin2K club?

#4 1 year ago

I've thought about starting a club, guess this is it. It was my first machine and my gateway into the addictive hobby of collecting. Mine is a re-import from Germany. Audits show it was routed briefly. I bought it from a friend who was a Star Wars collector, not a pinball person. It didn't even have a power cord when I found out she had it.

SWEP1 (resized).jpg

#5 1 year ago

Do you have any issues with LEDs in there? I tried them for my GI, but the strobing was very bad, so I put incandescent bulbs back in. Could've been the type of LEDs I have though.

#6 1 year ago

I owned a swep1 for a while. I really like the idea of the pinball 2000, but unfortunately Star Wars episode 1 just wasn’t much fun. I really wanted to like it, but it just didn’t click with me. Definitely deserves its place in pinball history, and kids really like it

#7 1 year ago
Quoted from Jive:

Do you have any issues with LEDs in there? I tried them for my GI, but the strobing was very bad, so I put incandescent bulbs back in. Could've been the type of LEDs I have though.

I got the Cointaker non-ghosting premium kit. It was my first machine so I didn't know much about choosing my own colors. Strobing in the GI isn't too terrible, just when it's trying to dim. You can change that in the settings though, so the GI doesn't ever dim (it will turn on and off though).

My goto for bulbs is Comet now.

#8 1 year ago

Also the Ultimarc Video Amp brought out life in my monitor that I didn't know it had.

https://www.ultimarc.com/vidamp.html

#9 1 year ago

SWEp1 is my 4th pinball machine. Even with Jar Jar, I find that I enjoy the game. Figure I own the last pin made by Williams and pinball 2000 is kind of a neat idea.

pasted_image (resized).png

#10 1 year ago

I have a reset issue with mine. You may play three games or six, and it resets. The previous owner replaced the power supply, cpu, cpu fan/heatsink, and I replaced the five suspect caps tonight, but still have the problem. I'm fiddling with Nucore/Pinbox, but I hate to go that route if I can work this out. I don't know of anything else to check, unless the Prism card is the issue.

#11 1 year ago

Decided to go the Nucore route. One question though, since my CRT still looks great, I’m looking at convertors. Would something like this work?

amazon.com link »

#12 1 year ago

Bit the dust and decided to install a 21” 4:3 LCD that I had laying around. It looks very good, but my black levels are too black, even with the brightness all the way up. May have to find another LCD.

B274A502-7994-4F9D-AD33-E9A0720AF808 (resized).jpeg

2 months later
#13 1 year ago

Solidarity.

I too own a SWep1 (playfield anyway).

Sorry about your display issues, Jive. If you still have your CRT, you can install an ultimarc ArcadeVGA card in your nucore to drive the old CRT. The ArcadeVGA card is plug and play with a modern PC. You can also buy their video amp to boost the video signal and the CRT image will really pop.

1 week later
#14 1 year ago

I recently added a SWEP1 to my line up and have begun working through it for a full service.

Added the first write up today on my progress here - http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2018/08/01/star-wars-episode-one-repair-service-log-1/

Really enjoying the game so far

#15 1 year ago
Quoted from Jesder:

I recently added a SWEP1 to my line up and have begun working through it for a full service.
Added the first write up today on my progress here - http://www.enteryourinitials.com/2018/08/01/star-wars-episode-one-repair-service-log-1/
Really enjoying the game so far

Looks great, loving the Darth Maul coin insert! Nice score on the backup computer and CRT as well.

#16 1 year ago

For any SWE1 owners looking for a spare populated playfield, ROMs, manuals, and cabinet art. If someone can close a deal by this weekend at the reduced price of $850, I will donate $100 to Project Pinball. Thanks.

Brad

Archived after 29 days
966 views
Sold (amount undisclosed)
Parts - For Sale
Used, good condition “I have for sale a complete SWE1 kit including ROMs, manual, fully-populated playfield, translite, cabinet and backbox art. The decals have wrinkled over the years. I've never app...”
2018-07-18
Chicago, IL
750

1 week later
#17 1 year ago

I am glad this thread has been created - I like the game quite a bit. I feel like the game gets crapped on a little too much. It has its faults, but it is still a marvelous game with plenty of good shots to make. The cabinet and playfield artwork is super sharp, and the light show is really fantastic.

The music is really fantastic throughout - some of it is from Episode I, some is original, but of course some of it is from the Original Trilogy - for example the R2 Astrodroid mode plays Han and Leia's "love theme"/The Rebel Fleet Theme, The Sub Escape mode plays bits from Rescue from Cloud City, Ground Battle plays music from The Battle of Endor, lots of little clips like that.

Some of the callouts are cringe-inducing, though. "If you do not help us all will be lost forever." Urk.
"WEESA GOIN MULTIBALL!!!"
"Follow. The Pinball. Force."

And my goodness the Watto and Jar-Jar locks are so hard to hit. Also I have yet to get the GUNGAN/JARJAR 19 million point bonus.

I added the ultimarc signal booster and the results were great. It allows me to use the original monitor, which is ideal, I feel. But just in case, I have a PC with the software ready to install and a monitor to go with it, along with the mounting brackets. I used LEDs in it with a couple spotlights to bring up some the dark areas. I also added a USB card to the PC to allow me to use a USB-based LED strip to light the translite - this brings the power consumption down a bit and protects the translite from the florescent burn. Looks really good, too.

#18 1 year ago

The update to Ver 5 code is totally worth it, btw.

4 months later
#19 1 year ago

I have all the ramps and plastics for swep1. Ramps have toys, switches, flaps, decals and spotlights installed.
All brand new

#20 1 year ago
Quoted from cabuford:

Also the Ultimarc Video Amp brought out life in my monitor that I didn't know it had.
https://www.ultimarc.com/vidamp.html

I've been considering adding one to my machine.

Is it just a matter of clipping the R,G,B,Sync,Gnd wires and screwing them in to the terminal on the Ultimarc board and you're done?

The Ultimarc page mentions that it needs a 5V power supply, which comes in on pin 9 from some video cards. Does P2K supply the 5V on this pin? Or did you have to source the 5V from elsewhere?

#21 1 year ago
Quoted from Jesder:

I've been considering adding one to my machine.
Is it just a matter of clipping the R,G,B,Sync,Gnd wires and screwing them in to the terminal on the Ultimarc board and you're done?
The Ultimarc page mentions that it needs a 5V power supply, which comes in on pin 9 from some video cards. Does P2K supply the 5V on this pin? Or did you have to source the 5V from elsewhere?

I didn't cut anything in case I wanted to revert it to stock. I built a new cable to go from the Ultimarc to the monitor. It's a little amateur, I put pins on the end but no molex connector. Now that I know more I should probably fix that.

My video cad did not provide 5v, so I grabbed it from the CPU power supply. I made a molex connector that breaks out the 12v and 5v, and used the 12v to power some LED strips for the backglass (I removed the 120v fluorescent tube).

#22 1 year ago
Quoted from cabuford:

I didn't cut anything in case I wanted to revert it to stock. I built a new cable to go from the Ultimarc to the monitor. It's a little amateur, I put pins on the end but no molex connector. Now that I know more I should probably fix that.
My video cad did not provide 5v, so I grabbed it from the CPU power supply. I made a molex connector that breaks out the 12v and 5v, and used the 12v to power some LED strips for the backglass (I removed the 120v fluorescent tube).

Exactly what I did- my florescent tube was broken and the housing was also shot so I put in a 5V strip of LEDs and ran it off a USB card in the computer. I put an Ultimarc in it as well - although my Ultimarc needed no +5 strangely enough.

1 month later
#23 11 months ago

I went ahead with purchasing the video amp board from Ultimarc and finally got around to installing it today. I'm blown away by the results - there is so much more detail in every scene that I had never seen. I had found that the contrast dial on my screen had been cranked up to max, so was able to lower this quite a bit with the video amp installed. I ended up making my own cable (left the original as is). I'm going to fine tune the contrast dial a little more, but I'm really happy with the results. Interestingly, I didn't need to add the 5V wire - my machine must be delivering 5V on the display cable.

One example - before:
swep1_videoamp_before_5 (resized).jpg

After
swep1_videoamp_after_5 (resized).jpg

#24 11 months ago

Joins the club this weekend. It’s a nice pun and I’m a Star Wars fan (yes, even ep1) so this is a good, cheap addition to the club.

I have a couple questions.

1) How will I know if a previous owner has made the nucore swap?
2) It looks like my picture is missing the green channel. Where should i start?
3) It appears I already have the ultimark amplifier board (1st picture). Does that looks correct?
4) can I add 6 volt led strip for the backglass by tapping off any old gi lamp?
5) I see a label on the mount that says wells Gardner. But a sticker on the tube itself says Samsung. Does that matter when/if I recap or work on the boards?

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#25 11 months ago

Looks like the original computer. Pull the case up and out towards the front of the game and you can lean the case down and take the top of and see inside.

While you’re in there you can tap 12 or 5v off the computer PSU for backbox lighting.

That is indeed the ultimarc video amp. I don’t know what to tell you about the missing green. Mine has worked fine since I got it and I’m not an arcade guy. CRTs holding voltage still freak me out.

#26 11 months ago
Quoted from cabuford:

Looks like the original computer. Pull the case up and out towards the front of the game and you can lean the case down and take the top of and see inside.
While you’re in there you can tap 12 or 5v off the computer PSU for backbox lighting.
That is indeed the ultimarc video amp. I don’t know what to tell you about the missing green. Mine has worked fine since I got it and I’m not an arcade guy. CRTs holding voltage still freak me out.

Yeah! Me too. How dangerous are we talking, really?

Thanks for the feedback. I’ll dig in more. It’s a fun little pin, I really think most is the ire is directed at jarjar.

#27 11 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Yeah! Me too. How dangerous are we talking, really?
Thanks for the feedback. I’ll dig in more. It’s a fun little pin, I really think most is the ire is directed at jarjar.

I think they store 120V AC, so could be potentially deadly. It's the whole "just ground it out with a long screwdriver and it'll discharge with a spark" that freaks me out. I've only installed the video amp, so I just stuck with the control wires near the back.

JarJar doesn't bother me too much. I just wish it was a little more than the center three shots most of the time. That being said I still rarely get past more than the first Jedi battle, so I need to step up my game.

#28 11 months ago

I've got a sealed/NOS SW:EP1 goodie bag if anyone wants it, $25 including shipping in USA.

#29 11 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Joins the club this weekend. It’s a nice pun and I’m a Star Wars fan (yes, even ep1) so this is a good, cheap addition to the club.
I have a couple questions.

2) It looks like my picture is missing the green channel. Where should i start?

Welcome to the club

A few simple things you can check out first (with the machine off):
- Check the wires at the screw terminals on the Ultimarc video amp. Ensure the green wire is firmly in place. The video amp board is the one in the photos with the screw terminals on one side and the video cable on the other.
- Check the video card in the computer is firmly in the motherboard slot on the PC.
- Check if there are any broken or bent pins on the video connector on the back of the PC card. Same for the video connector on the video amp board.
- Check the video cable that runs from the back of the computer to the video amp board is firmly plugged in at both ends.
- Did the original display cable come with the machine? It runs direct from the PC video output to the back of the monitor (instead of the ultimarc video amp). You could try installing this again to rule out the video amp as being an issue.

The problem may be (probably is) more complicated than the above checks (ie chassis or tube issue), but at least you can start to eliminate possible points of failure and if it does turn out to be something simple - awesome!

#30 11 months ago
Quoted from Jesder:

Welcome to the club
A few simple things you can check out first (with the machine off):
- Check the wires at the screw terminals on the Ultimarc video amp. Ensure the green wire is firmly in place. The video amp board is the one in the photos with the screw terminals on one side and the video cable on the other.
- Check the video card in the computer is firmly in the motherboard slot on the PC.
- Check if there are any broken or bent pins on the video connector on the back of the PC card. Same for the video connector on the video amp board.
- Check the video cable that runs from the back of the computer to the video amp board is firmly plugged in at both ends.
- Did the original display cable come with the machine? It runs direct from the PC video output to the back of the monitor (instead of the ultimarc video amp). You could try installing this again to rule out the video amp as being an issue.
The problem may be (probably is) more complicated than the above checks (ie chassis or tube issue), but at least you can start to eliminate possible points of failure and if it does turn out to be something simple - awesome!

Great tips! I’m on it Friday. My day off.

#31 11 months ago

Ok. Did a little more testing today. Looks like green is not totally out. Just 95%. I can see a little something. Is that a clue?

I swapped red and green wires coming out of the amplifier board. No matter what I did, I never got green on the screen.

I took the amp board out of the equation (went back to the original setup) and same green problem, just much fainter overall. Amp board is definitely helping.

I visually checked caps on the monitor board. They looked fine. I had a friend suggest a transistor night be bad. I didn’t have my tools to test them. I will Monday.

I didn’t discharge the monitor because it was so hard to reach I thought I would fry myself trying. Is it safe to take the whole thing out before discharging the tube?

#32 11 months ago

Btw this thing is actually a sweet shooter! I love the way it feels. What do the “action” buttons do?

#33 11 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Btw this thing is actually a sweet shooter! I love the way it feels. What do the “action” buttons do?

You can switch the mode your starting with the center shot once the mode is lit.

In certain modes you can, as Anakin says "Fire your lasers" to kill Clones or Ships on the ramp shots.

#34 10 months ago

Action buttons do a lot of neat stuff, some hidden. Depends on the mode. As cabuford said, you can use it do shoot at droids or ships, and change modes but you can also:

- Shoot the two flying STAP droids at the beginning of the Ground Battle scene for some super secret points and super DUPER secret points.
- Rotate the Queen Amidala targets during Queen's Game
- Bounce the musical chairs

So there's a few things the action buttons can do.

#35 10 months ago
Quoted from cabuford:

I think they store 120V AC, so could be potentially deadly. It's the whole "just ground it out with a long screwdriver and it'll discharge with a spark" that freaks me out. I've only installed the video amp, so I just stuck with the control wires near the back.

Haha if it only would be 120V AC i wouldn’t be to scared...
A typical color CRT runs between 25000V - 35000V DC depending on size and manufacture. Turned off they still hold multiple thousand volts in it. It does decrease over time, but it takes months even up to years until full discharged on its own. There are self discharging monitors out there. But you can never be sure.

My RFM monitor stopped working, in order to pull the chassis I discharged it. The first time ever. Never have done it before was a bit nervous but was easy.

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#36 10 months ago

I bought a little NOS item recently to swap into my rfm cab!

focUrTIBTkGGCg9zXtRhZQ (resized).jpg

I have some NOS items to sell that i won't need. Contact me via pm for info
I have the following to sell:
1 x NOS SWEP1 cabinet decal set
1 x NOS SWEP1 rom card
1 x NOS SWEP1 manual
1 x NOS SWEP1 translite

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#37 10 months ago
Quoted from applejuice:

I bought a little NOS item recently to swap into my rfm cab!
[quoted image]
I have some NOS items to sell that i won't need. Contact me via pm for info
I have the following to sell:
1 x NOS SWEP1 cabinet decal set
1 x NOS SWEP1 rom card
1 x NOS SWEP1 manual
1 x NOS SWEP1 translite
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

Can one buy the same package for rfm? I’d love to swap in for that sometime.

#38 10 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

Can one buy the same package for rfm? I’d love to swap in for that sometime.

I had been looking for one for about 3 years. Those kits are SUPER rare. I gave up. Your best best is to sell SWEP1 and get an RFM, then get an SWEP1 kit.

#39 10 months ago
Quoted from bailorgana:

I had been looking for one for about 3 years. Those kits are SUPER rare. I gave up. Your best best is to sell SWEP1 and get an RFM, then get an SWEP1 kit.

Where does one find a swep1 kit?

1 week later
#40 10 months ago

I have swep1 new ramps and plastics for sale

#41 10 months ago

I have some programmed PUB cards if anyone is interested.

I could do a sale or rental similar to LockWhenLit, but better priced.

PM me if interested.

#42 10 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

I have some programmed PUB cards if anyone is interested.
I could do a sale or rental similar to LockWhenLit, but better priced.
PM me if interested.

This is a newb question but what are pub cards

#43 10 months ago

"The PUB (Prism Update Board) card is used to install a software update into a Pinball 2000™ machine. This is an alternative method to update a Pinball 2000™ machine without using a portable computer. The PUB card contains an update for both the Game Program and the Sound Program for a Pinball 2000™ machine."

The current version of SWE1 is 1.4.

#44 10 months ago

How do I check my version? And how much are they?

#45 10 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

How do I check my version? And how much are they?

During attract mode it will show game version or you can look it up in System Menu -> Utilities -> System Information.

Pricing is $30 to rent or $60 to purchase, plus USPS Priority Shipping.
Renting would require a $60 payment and $30 would be returned to you when the card gets back to me.

#46 10 months ago
Quoted from WhiskeyTango:

The current version of SWE1 is 1.4.

Actually, 1.5 is out there, just not supported by Planetary. I had it on my EP1 and highly recommend it. My graphics took a dramatic improvement in clarity between 1.4 and 1.5.

#47 10 months ago
Quoted from bailorgana:

Actually, 1.5 is out there, just not supported by Planetary. I had it on my EP1 and highly recommend it. My graphics took a dramatic improvement in clarity between 1.4 and 1.5.

True, I technically have other builds, but I'm not sure how they play.

50069_0150_07252000
50069_0150_09222003
50069_0160_02012013
50069_0165_02212018
50069_0200_02262016

#48 10 months ago

So if I bought one, can I program them with other builds to try?

#49 10 months ago
Quoted from paynemic:

So if I bought one, can I program them with other builds to try?

Sure. All you need is Windows 95 and an open ISA slot.

#50 10 months ago
Quoted from bailorgana:

Actually, 1.5 is out there, just not supported by Planetary. I had it on my EP1 and highly recommend it. My graphics took a dramatic improvement in clarity between 1.4 and 1.5.

Any bugs or deficits you know of? I’m interested in upgrading.

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