I am needing a scan of the side backbox decals. Any chance someone here has this or has the ability to scan their art on their cabinet? Every kit I find online is selling the entire art kit and I only need the backbox art. And I have a printer to make these on so I hate to purchase from someone overseas if I can source the art. Thanks, Tom

In the club, with a wounded warrior. It’s currently not booting, but I have an RFM I can use to help test various components. I’ll start with the CPU - Power Supply, capacitors, etc.

My friend bought this from the lead guitarist in Mastadon. He’s a Star Wars guy, not a pinball guy. I guess he couldn’t find anyone to fix it. It was in a Namco arcade before that.

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I’m making good progress on my restoration. I got the CPU working with a new ATX power supply, and stripped the playfield so I could clean it. Lots of parts on order, mostly from Pinball Spare Parts in Australia. Can’t wait to get this back together so I can play it.

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My SWE1 came with a nonworking Light Saber, so I set about making a new one. Here’s a pic of the end result - my iPhone couldn’t capture the deep bright green, but trust me, it looks perfect!

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I started with this green LED rope, which has a nice even light distribution:

https://www.amazon.com/Lamomo-Flexible-Waterproof-Silicone-Decoration/dp/B08SJCFFFS

Any LED strip that runs on 12VDC will work. This one uses 800 mA per meter, so we’re at a bit over half an amp.

My game came with a 1” green acrylic tube. I fed the LED rope into it and saw 3 issues: it wasn’t straight, it was too bright, and it wasn’t diffused enough for me. I started shopping for frosted plastic tubes on Amazon, and a light bulb came on: the cheap LED replacement tubes at Home Depot use frosted plastic tubes. I bought the the 46” Phillips T5 tube, which is 5/8” in diameter. As luck would have it, the LED rope fit in it perfectly and the tube held the rope straight. This is what it looked like when I used my hacksaw on it:

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Next, I fed the LED rope into the T5 tube, and used some foam to center the T5 tube in the 1” tube that came with my game. Is everyone’s tube green?

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After reassembling the light saber, all that’s left is wiring. I connected the red (positive) wire to the game’s grey-yellow wire, and the black wire to the game’s brown-white wire (“solenoid” 41). I love that the light saber stays on for attract mode, but is used strategically in the game. I think it would be too bright if it was on all the time.

I hope this helps someone whose neon is out or missing. I’m really happy with the result.

In case anyone is lucky enough to find a

Wow!!!! Looks great!!!!

I found this great picture of my kid (now 24) to hang next to the game:

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Hahaha, cool!!!

Virtual Pinbox anyone? I’m a Pinball 2000 SWE1 owner with SWE1 pin running Pinbox on a Dell Optiplex 760. To give the game a faster boot and a little more oomph, I purchased a used Dell Optiplex 780 for $99 on eBay and I thought, hey, why not virtualize the SWE1 and Pinbox? It’s nothing more than an old Ubuntu Linux operating system with Pinbox running as application Soooo, I purchased a SATA to USB and I’m trying the following…

1. Remove the Pinbox hard drive (HDD) from the Dell Optiplex 760.
2. Plug in the Pinbox HDD to a Raspberry Pi running Linux and create an ISO file of the entire Ubuntu Pinbox HDD.
3. Load the Ubuntu Pinbox ISO into the VMWare on the Dell Optiplex 780 that has a 256 Gb SSD.
4. Automate the VMWare at startup for Pinbox to run and test it on the SWE1 pin.
5. See if it works.

Just… Total… Fun… No other reason to do this. Retirement is a gas.

If, and I mean, if I get it running, I’ll make duplicates of the Pinbox ISO and try to upgrade the Ubuntu operating system to the latest and greatest then my lofty goal of new graphics and modified gameplay. The last part is just a dream but hey, we made it to the moon 50 years ago!

For the pin gamers who don’t like the SWE1 pin, you haven’t seen how much modifiable fun you can have with this pin like no other. The way I see it; pinball is my hobby and the deeper I can dig into a game and make it mine the more fun I have. Like reprogramming Jar-Jar to meet his unfortunate demise in a section of play. Poor Jar-Jar.

I still love my other pin games. I’ll never sell my Star Trek TNG pin.

More to follow my SWE1 pin fans. Play more pinball!

I’d love to see an updated ruleset for SWE1. I’d love it even more if it was open-sourced so we can make changes. Thanks for attempting this.

Excellent explanation! My SWE1 has a goofy-looking dotty and weak LEDs. I'm going to try to duplicate your success. I appreciate you posting this.

I tried your solution with the same hardware and all works but…

The LED lights are very weak. I tested the LED strip to another 12V source and they’re perfectly bright. So out comes the multimeter and and the grey/yellow wire to brown/white wire are running at 12V. However, when I connect the lights voltage drops to about 7.5V. Something must be wrong with the game 12V to this source. So far, I checked/reseated the connectors from the power board to the back of the playfield with no success. Anyone ever run into a low power issue with a 12V source on SWE1? Any recommendations?

I could always plug the LED strip directly to a 12V source but as you said, it plays much better with the logic of turning the lightsaber on and off during the gameplay.

How much current is your replacement led strip drawing? It may just be too much load for that 12V transistor. But if you used the same LED rope light I did, it should be fine. Hmm.

Same exact LEDs and size of the lightsaber. I tried tracking down the 12V source to see if there was a short or another use of the 12V source but I couldn’t find one. It’s outputting 12v but as far as I can tell just not enough oomph (amperage). Thanks for thinking about it.

I changed some GI lights with the game powered on last night. After that my light saber light doesn’t light up and a bunch of solenoids do not work. I blew some fuses I assume?

The LED light saber is working (but I can’t take credit)! It was a faulty chip ULN2803A at U35 on the power board addressed by this forum at arcade-museum.com. I never would’ve guess this chip creates and manages the power so well.

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/star-wars-episode-1-light-saber-issue.201678/

I purchased 4 ULN2803A chips (three for backup and other machines since these chips are so cheap) at pinballlife.com

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-uln2803a-switch-matrix-driver-chip.html

Since U35 slot has a chip holder, no unsoldering and soldering was needed. Literally a 30 second replacement.

Kudos to swampfire for the light saber replacement. Long live the Gungans!

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Progress made!

I apologize for the delay but I brought Frankenstein’s monster Lancers pin from the dead. It was completely not working after sitting for decades and I repainted the cabinet, my wife painstakingly repainted the back glass, and every thing you could imagine was done to the guts of this EM pin (see the picture).

1. Replaced the older computer. Newer Dell Optiplex 780 ($99 eBay) with an 256 Gb SSD with an 16GB image of the SWEP1 Lubuntu operating system software. Yup, all you need is a 16GB SSD but 32GB SSD are so cheap you could go with that. I put SWEP1 Lubuntu on a 16GB drive so I can copy it if ever needed on another SSD if the current SSD goes on the fritz. Needless to say, all you folks running the original SWEP1 hardware can upgrade on the cheap (buy a Dell Optiplex 760 or 780 and copy the SWEP1 Lubuntu software to it and upgrade to an LED monitor.

2. New hardware mounting system. Removed the old pressure fitted computer mount (yup, “pressure fitted” mounting system with bubble wrap and shards of the original mount) with one purchased from oeveo.com and a couple of nice bungee cords:

Computer mount:
https://www.oeveo.com/under-desk-pc-mounts/4445-under-desk-pc-mount-444.html

Bungee cords (32 inch - I can’t seem to find the 32 inch version of the bungee cords anymore but you can probably find an equivalent version):
https://www.amazon.com/Bungee-Cords-Adjustable-Outdoor-Camping/dp/B0B81XBJWK

3. I’ve got Lubuntu running under VMware!!! Did some “magic” thanks to VMware tricks to get SWEP1 Lubuntu OS on a virtual drive but it works flawlessly in an 12GB virtual drive with 8GB SWEP1 Lubuntu! I have 4 virtual SWEP1 OS already set up each working perfectly. The final plan is to get a USB to parallel cable and USB to serial cable and run the main host as Windows 10 or 11. This means ANY computer can be used for the SWEP1 pin. I can’t tell you how much this will clear up hardware issues with SWEP1 and RFM pins for very low costs. I’m surprised no one has gone this route before.

I might be a little delayed. Another Frankenstien’s monster is being resuscitated - Gottlieb 300 pin (see picture of its guts if you dare!).

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I’d try obvious and work from there…

1. Check cable connections that could’ve loosened by any playfield movement.
2. Yes. Check your fuses. If you don’t have one, buy a multimeter and YouTube videos how to check continuity.
3. Visually observe any obvious burnt board or broken wires. Put on your 3x magnification glasses and inspect the underneath of the playfield, the power board (open the big black plastic cover under the playfield and look at that power board closely) and again, check connections.
4. Probably not, but could be a similar problem I had, see the above reply to a weak light saber and this post. Dirt cheap fix.
https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/star-wars-episode-1-light-saber-issue.201678/

I’ve only had my SWEP1 pinball game for a few months so I may not have the best answer. Any ideas Swampfire?

Found it! When I hauled the playfield out, one of the connections on the back of the playfield came undone!
Thanks!
Richard

All you SWEP1 pin owners tired of pulling the plunger over and over again during multi-ball? I am and I’ve decided to research the idea of installing a ball shooter mechanism in addition to using the plunger (if there’s room). I was thinking of using the right game button next to the flipper button to trigger it. The ball-shooter would only fire if the button was pressed and there was a ball in the shooting slot. I doubt if the ball shooter could be trained to hit the skill shot but a player could choose between the automatic button shooter or choosing the plunger.

Price wise, it’s $99 for a Stern shooter and a few extra dollars for a switch and connections. Another project added to the list. Again, more to follow.

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Who owns the SWEP1 source code to Nucore/pinbox?

My Lancers pin is ready (for sale, sadly, to support the hardware/parts/software for SWEP1 pin mods) and waiting on final parts for then "300" pin, so I had time for SWEP1 pin. My nuclear bomb mod will be an interactive Dell 7470 or 7480 All-In-One computer (I bought one of each) and will be placed perfectly behind the translite. It will play videos Star Wars videos at appropriate or determined times through existing pinball buttons or events. Here's one of my early attempts of videos attempting to mimic the translite with video added at about 15 seconds. I imagine this will be the first video to appear as the SWEP1 pinball game is starting up.

Just a note, the translite will never go away, the All-In-One computer will display a white background using flipper or buttons for control so the translite will be lit and doesn't have to be removed to preserve originality of the game, if desired.

Let me know what you think about the videos with any ideas. Cheers!

Guys! Just became an owner and I love it! I'm not even a star wars guy and it's just fun and gets you into it. Also loveeeeee it for the kiddos. My 4 year old if obsessed! Anywho one question: when I purchased it it was not on freeplay so I had to add credits, once I added a credit it would start playing the ohhhh so beautiful theme song and then once I press start it would start the game theme and words coming down the screen and all that good stuff. Now I moved it to freeplay and now I never get my oh so beautiful theme song. I get nothing during attract mode even though I turned on attract mode music and sounds. And then I press start and I get game theme going with words. But no soft beautiful song that I used to get to hear. How can I get that back while still keeping it on freeplay!? Any ideas?

That is very cool.
I’m not sure if you are saying that the back glass is an all in one and fits in there?
Also are you running pinbox as the original pc would not work?

I was planning to put a Dell Optiplex 7090 All-In-One directly behind the translite but I ran into a snag (after buying two used 7090 computers). The parallel interface cannot be USB because Windows 11 doesn't see a USB parallel port as a LPT port. So I bought (and just received today) a Dell Optiplex 3070 Small Form Factor desktop computer that will use a just-ordered parallel/serial PCI card. I'll use a 24" Dell monitor behind the translite that fits perfectly so I can run SWEP1 videos while running a virtual Pinbox OS of which I have working perfectly.

Here's what is done so far...
1. Messed up royally and wasted a lot of time and money trying to use Dell Optiplex 7490 AIO and 7470 AIO computers as the Pinbox OS due to a lack of PCI cards in the computer.
2. Purchased a used Dell Optiplex 3070 SFF and a PCIE parallel/serial interface card.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007UQZCFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
3. Installed VirtualBox and loaded the Pinbox OS sucessfully on the Optiplex 3070. Note: Super easy to copy the virtual Pinbox OS. Once sucessful, anyone else can get a copy of this (for testing purposes) and do the same.

What's remaining...
1. Actually making it work in the pin.
2. Install the monitor in SWEP1 pin.
3. Make a whole bunch of videos that'll run in replacement of the translite. The Dell Optiplex 3070 has two video outputs so one output is for translite-replacement videos and the other will run the SWEP1 game display.

After all this is done the REAL WORK begins.
1. Capture the signals coming from the game from the parallel port with Python and make a library of callouts to the game.
2. Get help from the "Loyal order of the Gungans" with graphics and videos because I really stick at it.
3. And finally, reprogram the game with hi-res 1980x1040 graphics and 30 fps videos for the game.

Progress is slow due to trial and error but there's progress! I'll keep you posted on my success and failures.

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Good luck on that dont think you will succeed without source files of star wars
I am working on building an emulator like nucore but from scratch using qemu (started with mame) and I have it working now. Implementing DCS at the moment.

Hooking into the code using an emulator is easy. However rework of images is impossible. Everything is coming out of the roms with the pointers in the source code.
The emulator makes sure all pixels are at the right mediagx vram location and then dumped to the display.

So if you want to do something with this you must first learn how the real software works.

I had a little fun with the lightsabers. I never liked the cheap Qui-Gon Jinn plastic lightsaber and the fat tube holding the illuminated blade. So I purchased the “true” Qui-Gon Jinn and Darth Maul lightsabers from Disney World’s Galaxy Edge land along with 3/4” Green and Red Transparent Acrylic Round Tubes, rewired the existing lightsaber wiring and installed them both.

The result is Darth Maul’s red and Qui-Gon Jinn’s lightsaber totally out the way of the playfield but balancing the game (like the Force) because, hey, Darth Maul wins sometimes so lets give him credit.

Enjoy!

kasManiac

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Nice. Can it send signals through the parallel port? Is it a software emulator or something to replace the SWEP1 pinball software?

This will replace the original computer just like nucore does. However the code of nucore has never been released so it is a closed source and it has some drawbacks. Performance is very good though.
Developing my own emulator allows me to have full control over output and input. Not over the graphics being generated by the code of the pinball game itself.
It will allow me to basically control any lamp / solenoid, read any button / switch and act upon such a thing.

That’s friggin’ awesome! I’m a programmer by trade, anything I can do to help? I’d really like to work with you on it, that’s the direction I was going but you’re light years ahead of me.

kasManiac

That looks pretty badass! Great work!

Will your software run in the original or newest Lubuntu Linux OS or Windows (or something else)?

What I was planning to do is intercept the signals and play appropriate videos and updated sounds to a monitor replacing the translite. Your solution also provides so many opportunities for LEDs throughout the machine.

Again, kudos for working on this. So excited to see what you’re coming up with.

Hi Guys,

Thought I would share a couple of overhaul mods I've been doing on my recently acquired Star Wars Episode 1 P2K pinball.

I replaced the crummy / plastic looking neon light saber with 2 quality red and blue lightsabers that tie into the same power as the original and light up at the same timing as the original. Blew a couple of the ULN2803A chips doing it - but finally got it worked out to work perfectly.

Plus, I got a couple of 3 1/2 droids from the movie and added LEDs to them powered by a constant 5 volts. I am placing them in the back far corners on the left and right next to the back wall of flashers. I also added some chrome spotlights to illuminate the playfield a little better.

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Nice work. Looks really good

I installed my own emulator code on my machine and played some games. No problems there. Works really smooth and sound is working with real emulation
This opens doors also for Wizard Blocks owners as this is not possible for nucore emulation. Also the lifetime of pinball 2000 will be extended with my emulator as it is very easy to keep Ubuntu up to date

A couple update videos:

RFM owner here, but this could apply to SWEP1 as well. And potentially someone here could also help me.

I'm in the process of converting my Ducksan Chassis (which died in a stupid way) to a Wells gardner.
This could also be a warning for other Ducksan owners. The HV wire from the flyback ( I believe the Anode wire) is very close to a metal bracket, which is not very nicely deburred.
So in my machine after years of vibration the wire was cut a little, so the HV could arc to the chassis which is also the earth connection.

So now i'm going to add a wells gardner PCB to a ducksan chassis. I 3D printed a bracket so I can attach the Wells gardner PCB to the original Ducksan frame without modification. But the Wells gardner has some earth connections, that I can't place.

Could someone take some pictures of their Wells gardner chassis so I can figure out were to put the earth connections?
I would also like to get a picture of the incoming signal connector, as I need to know which connections are used.
Thanks in advance!

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I’m looking for a (SWEP1) left slingshot plastic and the OEM lockbar / mounting brackets for a pin2000 game and a coin box.

Anyone have them available?

Anyone able to, or already have a full scan of a blank swep1 playfield?

PM me if you can help , thanks

Applejuice are you planning to update Swep1 ?

That’s the only way I would want to own one again!!

The request for a scan is for a swep1 retheme project that *might start soon.

Regarding standard swep1 code updates, there is plenty i could do to sort this game out including porting all the stock updates from revenge (extra high score tables, midnight madness, shaker support, real knocker support, 6 ball trough support, multiball add-a-ball, party modes inc reversed flippers, no hold flippers, score war etc, autolauncher support, led light support improvements, ball save updates) and also improve the actual game rules, BUT.... I don't have a full version of the swep1 source, as no-one seems willing to share it with me. Maybe it will change in the future, as i think i've proven myself with the RFM changes, in a similar way to other people doing wms code updates, but nothing is forthcoming currently....

Not that many owners as to be worth your time.
That does not mean it would not be cool anyway.
I agree I using a layout and just making a new game as the potential is killer with what is available.
Dual monitor sub out backglass with lcd.

There's plenty of games about, they just aren't that fun to play currently. That could change...

this sounds soooooooooooooo awesome!!!!! I dont even understand some of the stuff you said but wow it sounds cool!

What do you mean by "full version of swep1 source"?
Is this just the ROM's or more?

The ROMs are compiled code and images
To be able to add functionality you need the full source code. Then you can compile it to a new update version. The roms will not change anymore but there is flash Ron on the prism card for compiled updates

Now I understand. But the source code will not be something that's easy to find, I could imagine?

I have your Revenge From Mars software and it transformed the machine. I haven't had the SWE1 installed since and I think only you could save it.

My dream though would be for you to do a Star Wars Episode 4-6 mod (with New Hope footage).

Don't know anything about the stuff that you do but I agree.

Working on repairing and replacing missing pieices to a SWEP1 project machine I recently received. My first pinball was a project RFM which I went crazy with a premium restore, I am not going all out on this one but at least I have a bit of a head start on the Pin2K stuff.

I am looking at replacing the bulbs with LEDS so I wanted to ask owners which LED kits they prefer?

Additionally, the machine is missing the entire light saber (and mounting brackets)? I realize it might be better to get a replacement/mod saber. Any suggestions for current sources?

In the process of restoring my recently obtained Episode 1 project pin. I just replaced the red trim which was really hard to remove as it was just crumbing apart into small pieces and much had to be picked out.

I was a bit worried going with black trim with gold edges from tmolding.com, but it looks amazing without being too gaudy and really matches the artwork outline IMO.

I also mounted a SCAT battle droid to replace playfield plastic of the SCAT droid, I will likely for the same on the right side to have them match. I had to modify the toy by cutting off the bottom with a Dremel so it would fit, and it barely fits, but I think it looks cool. These are available on eBay for about $15.

Still a lot of touch up to do on the cabinet, but getting there from where I started.
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