(Topic ID: 216453)

SWEP1 Loyal Order of the Gungans Club

By Jive

5 years ago


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  • 201 posts
  • 61 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 days ago by hAbO
  • Topic is favorited by 40 Pinsiders

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There are 201 posts in this topic. You are on page 3 of 5.
#101 4 years ago

Update on my sw ep1 multiball issue. it was a bad receiver opto on theball traught. all working good now

2 weeks later
1 month later
#103 4 years ago

Need some help trying to figure what I did wrong or broke by coincidence.
My lightsabre stopped working and fuse 111 kept blowing. The fuse problem was a bad diode #31 changed that ad problem fixed. Lightsabre problem I just went and changed u34 u35 and put in a new transformer and it works. Now after doing all of this I have all of light matrix 6a saying shorted and 6b open. Could use anyone's input on the matter

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1 month later
#104 3 years ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Hey guys - just making a repro part announcement. We began making repro MRS' (as found in SWEP1 - there are 2) in mid-2019 - but only announced on the RFM page (they are handmade and didn't want to get overwhelmed with orders). We've been branching out more to other pin clubs that utilize this crazy unobtanium switch....the MRS stands for Magnetic Reed Switch - and they are also found in CV, NBAFB, NGG, SC and CC ...they went unobtanium half a dozen years ago or so - so my partner and I at M&M Creations decided to remake them. Our MRS is plug/play - it is lighter, thinner and more sensitive than the original MRS. You can see a pic of the repro MRS solo and in a lineup with an original Williams MRS, a Sega MRS (used in Maverick, Space Jam and SW:Trilogy) and a repro M&M Creations MRS. My wait list was caught up recently and time to help more folks...just PM if interested!
Matt & Dan[quoted image][quoted image]

Huge thumbs up for this MRS product!! I didn’t use it in swep1 but this is where I first heard about it so I thought I’d post here. I swapped it in for a switch on IJ that wouldn’t ever stay working (took too much abuse?). It was a simple swap, no diodes or crap. Perfect function. Looked great. Buy with confidence.

Photos before and after.

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1 month later
#105 3 years ago

Not a lot of action here, but thought I'd post info on my project.

I have a nucore mostly running but it randomly crashes, and want to run the original WG CRT - but don't have an ArcadeVGA card. In order to be able to test the setup, I 'invented' an extremely cheap mounting solution with things at home. This is of course intended for testing, haven't tried any long term / table nudging with it, etc etc)

Materials:
Lowes- 3 pack of 5 gallon paint sticks (item 1048715: $1)
Tools: Drill w/ bit, pencil, straight edge (I used a combination square)

Monitor: Dell E1913Sf

Cut the handle top off stir sticks, find center, drill top holes, insert monitor bolt, swing stick over to Mark bottom holes without monitor installed, drill holes.

Monitor will JUST sit in cutout for CRT. Put one side of stir sticks on and tighten slightly. This will want to push monitor to side and make it fall (ops tested) - once you get the other side on, the curved back will push toward each other and hold it in place nicely. Add black tape of your choosing if you wish to seal the gap for testing (I'm going to make a wooden frame just to have on hand myself but for now I used tape).

To get audio (**This is an IN A PINCH solution for testing - wires are just twisted, not tinned - ensure no wire fibers are touching other wires), I had a powered computer sub that takes bare wires to output to the front speakers. Tapped into the molex simply by sizing bare twisted speaker wires. Top row is +, bottom row is -. Red stripe -> Left; burgundy(?) Stripe -> Right; Black stripe -> Cabinet speaker (didn't use since I had a sub).

Now, I need to find an old and busted SWE1 translite so I can make a custom LED lighting panel that will allow specific color LEDs behind the translite to make the colors pop and make it look better than it does right now - which is quite poor imo. This will be a wood panel with light holes drilled - with a hinge just like the non florescent tube machines in order to access area behind it.

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3 months later
#106 3 years ago

I've got a few extra prism tools if someone wants one...$10 shipped in the US - just PM me...

Matt

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1 week later
#107 3 years ago

I have an undocumented HUO Star Wars for sale or trade in the marketplace.

1 month later
#108 3 years ago

Joined the club finally after resolving my conversion issues. Running on Nucore so I can easily and quickly swap.

#109 3 years ago

Black Friday sale on PRISM tools.....$8 shipped in the US - just PM me....I have about 7 left, first come, first serve....

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1 week later
#110 3 years ago

Hey fellow SWE1 owners,

Just found the club while thinking about how to get the word out about my new Pinball 2000 H+V Video Sync Combiner kit. You can check out my post about that at https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pinball-2000-h-v-sync-combiner-updated or you can simply enjoy a shot of my SWE1:

KAHR.US SWE1KAHR.US SWE1

I've taken my SWE1 to both York and Allentown shows in recent years (but not this year) and it is always appreciated. As for the Sync Combiner, it's incredibly easy to install and doing the conversation to a flat panel brings out all the graphic details mentioned by others in the thread.

-Rob
-visit https://www.kahr.us to get my daughterboard that helps fix WPC pinball resets or my Pinball 2000 H+V Video Sync Combiner

2 months later
#111 3 years ago

Hello fellow SWE1 owners - Does anyone have a download link or could anyone send me the 1.5 update file (for pin2000 update manager).
is 1.6 or 1.65 out there somewhere as well...?

Thanks!

Nick

#112 3 years ago

Second time being a member of the club. Just a fantastic game that doesnt get allot of love and thats fine with me! I thoroughly enjoy it and was fortunate enough to pickup a HUO example that is simply stunning. Left the hobby for a while and returned recently and definitely wanted to replace both these games as they were both games I regretted letting go in the first place.

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1 week later
#113 3 years ago

Has anyone experienced an audio issue where the audio cuts out completely? I have swapped the prism cable and the amp with no change. Game will play audio for a few games and then just cut out randomly. Resetting the game either by switch or menu will bring the audio back to working again for a few more plays. No faults ever appear during bootup self test. The problem doesn't exist with my RFM installed. I have SWEP1 on a different prism card so I assume the problem is in the card or the software load. I originally updated the new card through the null modem cable and I would get an error with the audio part of the update and the music would not play. I used a pub card and everything worked great but it started cutting out. I have not tried to reload 1.4 through the null modem port yet, if anyone has the newer code I'd like to try that.

1 month later
#114 2 years ago
2 months later
#115 2 years ago

Anyone have a light breakdown for what they ordered in an LED conversion? Feeling a bit lazy on this one.

#116 2 years ago

I just used Comet natural white 2smd and color matched inserts.

3 months later
#117 2 years ago

Hi.
Fuse 112 (Lamp matrix B) blows immediately when turning on the pinball.
Encountered someone the same problem, or do someone has a suggestion in what to check ?

#118 2 years ago

are you using LEDs? or normal lamps.
It looks like you have short somewhere

#119 2 years ago
Quoted from erikie:

are you using LEDs? or normal lamps.
It looks like you have short somewhere

I turned all the lamps into leds, but before having the problem.
I will check all the cable of the matrix searching for a short.

#120 2 years ago

So, no short checking the lamps.
I tested the Power board. It seems the prewious owned repaired while I found signs on LED 8, R296-297,D33 34 35 36.
Tech question: is it normal D33 and D34 bips while using the tester and all the other diodes does not ?
I think I need to change them.

#121 2 years ago

those diodes are a diode bridge to convert AC to DC. I don't think your problem lies there.
However you can always check another bridge if the same thing happens with your tester.
D29 - D32 is the same bridge for matrix A.

edit:
did a quick check on my spare driver board, you have 2 broken diodes. It should not beep but give either around 600 ohms or no measurable value on the multimeter. Check the capacitors if they are still in good health. The top should still be flat.

#122 2 years ago

It could be that when testing with all connectors attached that you measure a short which is in fact your transformer. Did you remove the power driver board while testing or was it still in the pinball machine with all connectors plugged in?

#123 2 years ago
Quoted from erikie:

It could be that when testing with all connectors attached that you measure a short which is in fact your transformer. Did you remove the power driver board while testing or was it still in the pinball machine with all connectors plugged in?

Yes, the board was removed before testing. I studyed how the diode works when tested. I need surely to change those two that bips. I have some capacitor as spare parts, I Will change them too. Thank you for your help.

3 weeks later
#124 2 years ago

I changed the shorted diode. Everythigs seems to work good.
I'm not sure of the connections because the test gives me yellow checks to do.
Could someone please post a picture of the connections on the entire power board ?

#125 2 years ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

I changed the shorted diode. Everythigs seems to work good.
I'm not sure of the connections because the test gives me yellow checks to do.
Could someone please post a picture of the connections on the entire power board ?

On the Pinball2000 machines, you will always get lamp error yellow checks, if you install LED's. Just ignore the lamp yellow checkmark error messages.
This is normal when LEDs are installed in P2K machines.

1 month later
#126 2 years ago

I’m looking for a lightsaber kit. My machine was missing it when I bought it.

1 month later
#127 2 years ago

My parents Patthepinhead bought Episode 1 new, and it is actually the most recent pinball machine they purchased. I still remember when when it arrived and found some photos of when we unboxed it over 20 years ago!

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I was out vising them last month and noticed they still have the original box after all these years!

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#128 2 years ago
Quoted from ScottThePhotog:

My parents Patthepinhead bought Episode 1 new, and it is actually the most recent pinball machine they purchased. I still remember when when it arrived and found some photos of when we unboxed it over 20 years ago!
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I was out vising them last month and noticed they still have the original box after all these years!
[quoted image]

That’s damn cool. I recently picked up one and actually really enjoy the pinball 2000 machine. I wouldn’t mind picking up a mint one to put in the collection if one ever turns up.

#129 2 years ago

Longshot question here: does anyone have an RFM playfield they want to sell? I've got a buddy who has a RFM with a pretty rough playfield and these things just don't really exist anymore.

3 months later
#130 1 year ago

When I picked up my SWEP1 last year the lightsaber did not work (which isn't uncommon). I ordered a replacement transformer and with my hobo Macgyver skills got it working again.

Well last night one of the 2 sets of Pinstadium Neo lighting kits arrived and I went to work installing it in Episode 1 since the game is SO DAMN DARK and I worried that installing LEDS would interrupt the video reflection (among other things). During the install I borked my flea market wiring job and the lightsaber stopped working and was also in my damn way so I simply removed it and sat it aside with all plans to put it back later. Now with both rails on and the lighting options they offer is it crazy of me to consider leaving the damn thing off? It really feels like it opened the view of the game on the right hand side.

#131 1 year ago
Quoted from Merendino:

When I picked up my SWEP1 last year the lightsaber did not work (which isn't uncommon). I ordered a replacement transformer and with my hobo Macgyver skills got it working again.

I've seen people "MacGyver" the light saber such that it's always on. I hope you didn't do that.... It should be computer controlled, turning on/off depending on what's going on in the game. Common problem is for the driver chip (a ULN2803 at location U35) to go bad. You just need to replace that chip.

BTW, Pinstadiums sound like a horrible idea....

#132 1 year ago
Quoted from mattosborn:

I've seen people "MacGyver" the light saber such that it's always on. I hope you didn't do that.... It should be computer controlled, turning on/off depending on what's going on in the game. Common problem is for the driver chip (a ULN2803 at location U35) to go bad. You just need to replace that chip.
BTW, Pinstadiums sound like a horrible idea....

No no, I didn't rig it so it was always on, it simply needed a new transformer. The rails for the pinstadiums are as close to the front of the machine as possible and honestly look pretty dang good. I'll upload a few pics when I get home from work.

#133 1 year ago

Please excuse the potato quality, video was taken via my cellphone. Keep in mind you can set the light patterns however you wish, I was toying around with a fade pattern involving a few different colors.

3 weeks later
#134 1 year ago

Hello, new member of this awesome group. Does anyone have any recommendations for an Led light bulbs kit for SWE1 pin?

#135 1 year ago
Quoted from Robertbucs:

Hello, new member of this awesome group. Does anyone have any recommendations for an Led light bulbs kit for SWE1 pin?

I think the best thing to do for this game is build your own. Use incandescents for all of the GI because the game dims the GI during game play. If you use leds in the GI you'll get a horrible flickering. I color matched most of the inserts with non-ghosting leds and used warm white for any inserts with multi colored artwork. I also color matched flashers as well.

#136 1 year ago

Great advice, gonna do it.

Thank you,

2 weeks later
#137 1 year ago

Looking for a complete light saber repalcement. neon is out and the green plastic tube has broken. Anyone know where to get one?

#138 1 year ago
Quoted from YSCOGAMES:

Looking for a complete light saber repalcement. neon is out and the green plastic tube has broken. Anyone know where to get one?

I've been looking for one as well for a few months now. Havn't found one yet. I'm also looking for replacement clear plastic clamps that hold the saber. Marco sells the handle and the lower transformer cover, but is out of stock on the green tube. Planetary pinball has the transformer.

2 weeks later
#139 1 year ago
Quoted from Merendino:

Please excuse the potato quality, video was taken via my cellphone. Keep in mind you can set the light patterns however you wish, I was toying around with a fade pattern involving a few different colors.

That looks cool! How does it know when to change colours? Just random? Or tied into the game somehow?

Richard

#140 1 year ago

Has anyone ever futzed with the program and added Episode 4-6 footage? Would be nice to play old school Star Wars for a change.

3 weeks later
#141 1 year ago

Hey gang, I listed a bunch of hard to find and "unobtainium" SWE1 parts in the market.

2 months later
#142 1 year ago

In the club
Stoked game needs a cleaning and rubbers
589 plays goodie bag still attached

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#143 1 year ago
Quoted from Spacemanratso09:

In the club
Stoked game needs a cleaning and rubbers
589 plays goodie bag still attached [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice!!

1 month later
#144 1 year ago

What is the latest code for this? Is there much difference from the original?

Thanks!

#145 1 year ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

Hi. I bought the mod of niro pinball having problems in finding an original one.

How did you install it?

#146 1 year ago

Anyone instal art blades on SWE1? I see a few online. Not sure what they would look like installed.

I would prefer mirror blades but no luck there.
Richard

#147 1 year ago
Quoted from Dutchman2009:

How did you install it?

It was quite simple.
At first you need to buy the saber from F-2NIRO . This one fits exactly the retaining system of the original one. He can buil the saber exactly how you want, in terms of colours, lights game, intensity.
You need to dismount the handle of the original one; mine was not working - there you will fit the electronic of the new saber.
Then you will need to connect this electronic to electricity. I did it using a notebook transformer and the connector into the cabinet.
The last thing is putting a switch exactly where the ball is ready to be launched. That gives the saber the input to switch itselves on.
Another one must be put into the outhole; that gives the saber the input to switch itselves off.
Every time the saber is turned on, it changes colour.
It is simplyer to do than to explain it.
Resut is awesome.

#148 1 year ago
Quoted from Richard-NBA-SF2:

Anyone instal art blades on SWE1? I see a few online. Not sure what they would look like installed.
I would prefer mirror blades but no luck there.
Richard

You can do both them alone.
Mirror blades can be done from adhesive mirrors. Simple to apply like good new decals.
The same can be done with art blades. You can do the files simply using picture programs then asking near you to produce good adhesive materials.
You only need to cut them in the upper part, after creating a line to apply them that goes under the playfield.

Suggestion: cover the sides of the playfield with thin felt or you will damage both of them the first time you will rise up the playfield.

#149 1 year ago
Quoted from Marco1973:

It was quite simple.
At first you need to buy the saber from F-2NIRO . This one fits exactly the retaining system of the original one. He can buil the saber exactly how you want, in terms of colours, lights game, intensity.
You need to dismount the handle of the original one; mine was not working - there you will fit the electronic of the new saber.
Then you will need to connect this electronic to electricity. I did it using a notebook transformer and the connector into the cabinet.
The last thing is putting a switch exactly where the ball is ready to be launched. That gives the saber the input to switch itselves on.
Another one must be put into the outhole; that gives the saber the input to switch itselves off.
Every time the saber is turned on, it changes colour.
It is simplyer to do than to explain it.
Resut is awesome.

That mod looks cool!

Quoted from Marco1973:

You can do both them alone.
Mirror blades can be done from adhesive mirrors. Simple to apply like good new decals.
The same can be done with art blades. You can do the files simply using picture programs then asking near you to produce good adhesive materials.
You only need to cut them in the upper part, after creating a line to apply them that goes under the playfield.
Suggestion: cover the sides of the playfield with thin felt or you will damage both of them the first time you will rise up the playfield.

Right. Never thought of that. Might give it a try! Have you used any specific brand of adhesive mirror rolls?

Thanks!
Richard

#150 1 year ago

In the club! And loving it!

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