(Topic ID: 205034)

Swapped DMD Cont. With Good One Now It's Going Bad!!

By rmitzeltech

4 years ago


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  • 16 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 months ago by PinballManiac40
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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ribbon cable to reseat for DMD issues (resized).png

#1 4 years ago

Hello all, long time reader first time poster. I appreciate your time with helping me with my problem. I have a Creature From The Black Lagoon machine which has been in storage for an extensive period of time. Upon plugging it in i noticed the Service Switches were not working, and only had one volt going to them, and that the DMD was garbled with random dots on it. I had a working Slug Fest machine which shares the same DMD controller and Power Driver Board so i swapped them over and Voila! the switches and screen looked perfect...for about 10 seconds when i noticed the screen started showing vertical lines and and dots like the previous DMD did. I quickly turned the game off and now am hoping someone could tell me what could destroy a good working DMD controller board? I'm getting 15v on J606-7, when it's unplugged from the DMD Controller, which is supposed to be 12v.

#2 4 years ago

Take a look at the batteries/battery holder for alkaline damage if it was in storage for an extended period of time

#3 4 years ago
Quoted from rmitzeltech:

screen started showing vertical lines

Reseat this ribbon cable.
ribbon cable to reseat for DMD issues (resized).png

#4 4 years ago

Post a picture of that MPU board. I agree with MGMPIN that is likely has alkaline damage.

#5 4 years ago

Thanks for the replies guys, when I first started getting the game ready after sitting for so long the first thing I checked were the memory batteries. Thankfully they hadn't leaked and as you can see from the pics there is not the usual corrosion on the diodes and resistors below the battery pack. I've also attached a picture of the DMD Controller, although unplugged, for reference.

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#6 4 years ago

Do you have a different DMD controller board you can swap in?

There's a good chance one of the chips on that DMD board is fried, it happens, and will show the symptoms you describe, and updating the HV section won't fix it because it isn't a power issue. This happened to be on a CFTBL. I just replaced the board with another I had laying around. As others have said a bad or loose ribbon cable can cause these issues also.

#7 4 years ago

Well, this was my other good DMD Controller unfortunately. The thing about the matter is that originally i had a scrambled display, so i replaced the DMD Controller with one from a known working good machine. Then after working fine for approximately 10 seconds the new controller started showing signs similar to the first controller. This second DMD Controller had been working fine for an extended period of time so the fact that as soon as i put it in the game it started showing the same signs as the last one makes me think something is frying whatever DMD Controller i put in.

#8 4 years ago

Have you put the previously known good DMD controller board back into a different game to confirm it is now not working? If it works when placed into a different game then I'd lean towards the issue being with the CPU board but its still too early to tell.

#9 4 years ago

Try pushing on the U9 ASIC chip on the MPU to see if there is any improvement to the DMD. If it didn't help, please post a picture of the DMD just so we can see the result.

#10 4 years ago

Ok, so i started taking a closer look at the ribbon cable from the DMD Cont. to the DMD itself and noticed someone had soldered together one of the wires and left it exposed. After swapping cables with another machine the screen works perfectly! I appreciate your help everyone. Now i just need to figure out why 3/4 of the solenoids don't work, could this be because i took the driver board from Slugfest which has much fewer solenoids than Creature? I understood that they were they same driver boards as they have the same model number and look exactly the same to me. But i guess this is a question for a new thread.

#11 4 years ago

No. Either driver board should work fine assuming both boards are fully functioning. Can yoy post a picture of the Slugfest driver board? If C4 capacitor leaks, very conductive electrolyte can do the same type of damage as Battery corrosion.

I would try reseating the short ribbon cable between the MPU and driver boards.

#12 4 years ago

I re seated the ribbon cable and about half of the solinoids began working. After running a solinoid test on repeat for a single none working solinoid I pressed on ribbon cable connector and voila it began working. Everything is working as it should now. Thanks a lot guys, couldn't have done it without you!

#13 4 years ago

If it flakes out again, try swapping the cable around. The red wire then will no longer signify pin 1, but they are pin to pin anyway. Likely you may end up needing a new ribbon cable soon.

http://www.docentelectronics.com/httpdocs/AmusementGames/Pinball/Bally/BallyPinball.htm
Item CABRC-1001

#14 4 years ago

Oh and change to lithium batteries, which should not ever leak. Alkaline batteries are too risky.

4 years later
#15 3 months ago

Can a dead battery affect the dmd or just corrosion/damage?

#16 3 months ago
Quoted from mitchzizzle:

Can a dead battery affect the dmd or just corrosion/damage?

Dead battery will not ever affect the DMD. Battery corrosion, if only the bottom section of the MPU is damaged, will affect the switch matrix in some fashion. If the top half of the MPU is damaged, you can have boot up issues. If the game does not boot, you will not have a display, sounds, lights .... nothing.

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