Quoted from tommyp:

You can look at all the old adds here - https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/archive?s=1&radius_latitude=42.773794323925&radius_longitude=-78.689231872559&keywords=&ad_machine_key=470&ad_condition=0&machine_type=&ad_machine_manuf=&year_from=&year_to=&radius_distancekm=0&sort_by=ad_end_date&sort_order=DESC#results
That game looks to be maybe 1700$ max in players condition. So to bluntly answer your question, unless you love the game, money isn't an object and it's your grail pin you'd be crazy to spend that much on it. You're more than capable of replacing the bulbs on your own. If you can replace your household lights, you can do a pin. Wipe down topside yourself. Again not hard. Dont even have to strip the machine if you want to. Play it. Get comfy and when you feel bold if you can manage to operate a screw driver - take the plastics off and replace the rubber. Not sure what "checking the boards" entails..but if the game operates you're paying someone to look at them. That doesn't compute at all. Again my .02. Good luck and welcome to the hobby

Quoted from SantaEatsCheese:

Dollars to donuts, there is a switch in the outlane that makes a small audible "click" when rolled over. If it is registering only some of the time, it is likely the wire part that sticks above the playfield isn't being pushed down hard enough to make the "click" sound and engage the switch unless the ball is dead center. Simply bending the metal part above the playfield up a tiny bit may be enough to resolve the problem. If it doesn need a new switch, there are sites like Marco's Specialty parts and pinball life that can have any part you need to your door in a few days. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/180-5126-00 I don't know this is the exact part you need (check an online manual off of IPDB) but something like this would be soldered in to replace a faulty switch if a bend didn't work. $30 at home depot and 30 minutes on youtube can get you some basic soldering skills good enough to replace a part like this.
The whole point is... it's not as bad as it seems. Machines from that era are full of user replaceable parts.
Good luck and welcome to the hobby!

Quoted from chuckwurt:

Pass on that for sure. This is your first game. Learn to work on it! This is a perfect game to learn on. You don’t want to put any significant money into this. On it’s best day this is a 1800 game. Just play the hell out of it and fix everything yourself.

Quoted from TheLaw:

It will be worth nothing more at all.
Possibly even less.

Quoted from BrianBannon:

Congratulations! SnS is an excellent pin with great shots and rules.
You are probably fortunate that SnS is a Gottlieb System 3, one of the most reliable platforms out there. Biggest problem with any of the Gottlieb games of that era is a lack of game specific parts like ramps, plastics, and playfields. Whirlpool ramp is a weak spot as it is very thin and replacements are NLA. Under playfield hardware is heavy gauge and robust, won't be breaking any metal parts on that game. I have had one on location for nearly 2 years with only minor repairs needed. An expensive service overhaul is really not necessary.

Quoted from silver_spinner:

its a re-import, they tend to have many issues (wood swelling/falling apart, , rusty switches and assemblies causing lots of problems, hacked wires, etc). You will be learning a lot on your own which is much better on your pocket book. If you have any questions message me. We have one or 2 SNS and even one on our rental list:0).
I have worked on plenty of them. The optos in the bowl seem to be a common issue.

Quoted from Lhyrgoif:

I'm sure TNT does a great job at fixing pinballs (really like watching their videos by the way) but I preffer to do the restoration myself instead of letting someone else handle it. I have three main reasons for this:
1. Fun. I simply enjoy fixing up a beaten machine and see it evolve into something much nicer. Its also very satisfying when its done.
2. Game knowledge. While going through the games all assemblies, plastics, rubbers and so on you learn a lot. You realise where hard to get to switches are located. You learn how to remove certain tricky things (like the gumball in TZ or the ramps in SS). You learn how mechanical things like flippers and pop bumpers works. All this knowledge is great to have when something breaks in the future.
3. A beautiful and robust game. After going through the whole game, taking everything apart for cleaning and polishing, replacing broken plastics, new rubbers, new balls, new coil sleeves, put in LEDs, resoldered cables hanging by the threads and so on the game will play great for a long time and you will hopefully only get minor problems to fix in the future.
Each new pinball takes me about a month or so to go through (working on evenings and weekends) and waiting for replacement parts.
Ok, what Im trying to say here with my wall of text is that you are better off doing it yourself.

Quoted from Frax:

Reflowing solder and moving batteries off the boards...
Literally THE *two easiest* electronic repairs known to man that involve a soldering iron. That isn't worth jack. Any dope can reflow solder with about 2 minutes of explanation. Moving the batteries to a remote is a 10 minute job as long as there's no acid damage.
Todd is a cool guy, he makes me laugh...love the videos...BUT...you have to realize their market is for rich lazy asshats that can't be arsed to learn or do anything for themselves anymore. 2k+ for a glorified shop job is for those people. Fools and their money.
Keep in mind, for example say.... a WPC game. I could replace the driver board, MPU, and sound card for give-or-take 800-ish? Even if you ASSUME that TNT is doing 800 bucks of board work (which short of acid damage is really quite absurd a cost for board work), they're STILL charging you...1200+ to shop a game and maybe do some touch ups? Will their board repairs last as long as a BRAND NEW SET OF BOARDS? Nah, man. Come on.
*Edit* You could theoretically take 150-300 bucks out of what they charge to cover the actual cost of LEDs if they're doing a full conversion.

Quoted from Grizlyrig:

If you want to get better at working on electronics and soldering I recommend you buy some diy electronic kits off ebay for cheap money and if you ruin them learning it's cheap and not an expensive pinball board.
Example: ebay.com link
-Mike

Quoted from Grizlyrig:

There is all sorts of different kits you can get. Start with the cheap easy stuff and move your way up to say the clock that has chasing leds for the seconds.
I started with chasing led kits and screwed one up, determined to make it work I ended up having to solder some 18 ga. wire in to to fix the trace I destroyed from too much heat.
Another thought for you that I did was if you are gonna do touch ups and painting on playfields then start with some cheap "paint by number kits" from ebay. Try to stay in the lines yet blend it into the surrounding colors to not look like a hack. Way harder than you think.
-Mike
ebay.com link

Quoted from FrankJ:

You can get a stainless “Cliff” protector to cover the damage around the kick out hole. Not sure if he makes one specifically for S and S now, but I made one work from Super Mario Brothers a few years ago.

Quoted from sbmania:

Do as much of the work as you can yourself. That's the only way to really learn. Find a more knowledgeable collector who will let you call him from time to time with questions on how to fix something. Or post your questions here. Then do what they tell you and see how things work.
For something that might be really tough, ask around on here for the name of a local repair guy who does good work at a reasonable price. Have him come over, spend a few hundred dollars, and ask him if its ok if you watch while he works. Most guys don't mind teaching a few tricks of the trade to newbies. I've started a lot of guys in the pinball collecting and repair business by answering their questions and helping them out a few times.
Don't pay someone to "look" at your boards if they were already once gone over by a reliable mechanic. If they work, they work. If they don't, THEN you get someone to fix them. Especially for a game that was apparently professionally shopped some time back. Most preventive work a pro might do such as reflowing cold solder joints, replacing known to fail components, etc, should last many years. There should be no need to redo that for at least 10 years or more. It is a different story with a game that has not seen service in many years. Then, each manufacturer has weak spots that need to be checked to increase reliability. But this is only really important if you are planning to sell the game. If you are keeping it in your own house and it works now, leave it alone. If and when something starts to act up, then learn what the cause is, how to repair it, and do it. This way you learn little by little rather than trying to do everything at once when you aren't really sure what you are doing.
Finally, don't forget, if you are using a repair guy who lives several hundred miles from you, you are going to have to ship your game back and forth. That will add many hundreds of dollars to the cost of the rehab. Not worth it.