(Topic ID: 183048)

Surf Champ - Two-player default - U relay stays energized

By Hammond2

7 years ago


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#1 7 years ago

My Surf Champ works perfectly except for one strange problem. When trying to start a one-player game, the coin unit resets as it is supposed to, but then the other coin unit solenoid advances to the two-player position. Pressing the start button again adds players three and four as expected.

If my reading of the start-up sequence and schematics is correct, the U relay should be de-energizing once the AX relay energizes, but that is not the case. I blocked the switch between AX and U, but U stays energized throughout the start-up process, until the end of the first ball. U must be getting a current from some other relay, perhaps H or the 1B motor switch.

Any help would be much appreciated!

#2 7 years ago

Hi. do you have schematics?
also, does that relay stay energized if you unplug the power?

#3 7 years ago

Hi Doctor,

I will attach a portion of the schematics. The U relay definitely drives the coin unit solenoid. I just can't figure out what is powering the U relay and why. The U relay disengages when power is turned off, and it also disengages after the first ball has drained.

Thanks in advance for your help.

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#4 7 years ago

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#5 7 years ago

Hi Hammond.
chk these...ax relay, motor 1B, relays D,E,F?, C, and look close at H, all these are in front of the U relay.
I can't see everything, very busy circuit there

#6 7 years ago

I'm thinking that the P add-player unit relay may be the problem. I've noticed that it never closes during the start-up cycle. Adding another player also doesn't activate the P relay.

#7 7 years ago

Hi Hammond2
welcome to pinside. Your U-First-Ball-Relay acts strange. Yes, when You toggle-on the pin the U-Relay must pull-in and stays pulling. When You start a game the U-Relay must let go. Some more stuff is happening - the ball is kicked out as "Player-1-Ball-1". This situation is shown on the bottom of the JPG - the "Coil on U-Relay" has NO connection - it can NOT pull. At this time the R-Hold-Relay MUST pull, the H-Tilt-Hold-Relay MUST pull. Question: Do these two relays steady pull at this time in Your pin ?

Your U-Relay does faulty pull at this time - it may have a fault "along green wiring" and / or "along red wiring". When troubleshooting I sometimes sneak-in a fault into the pin --- and this "sneaked-in fault" gives me information to "original problem".
Toggle-off the pin - the U-Relay does not pull. A short wire runs from "Coil on U-Relay" to "Switch mounted on the relay" This is the switch I marked in the JPG with a "star". Look at the switch - all good (not only contact points - also where the wires are soldered-on) ? Sneak-in a stripe of paper in-between the contact-points --- the switch can move mechanically but the stripe of paper hinders "electrical contact". Toggle-on the pin - the U-Relay should pull-in and stay pulling - AAA means Yes, BBB means No.
Then start a new game - CCC: The U-Relay let go --- or --- DDD: The U-Relay stays pulling. I am not interested in OTHER (maybe strange) behavior of the pin.

I hope for "You have AAA and CCC". If You have BBB: A fault in green wiring", If You have "AAA and DDD": A fault in red wiring --- what do You have ? (After the test You may take-out the sneaked-in stripe of paper --- we have sneaked-in a fault (stripe of paper) and the pin has given a result.) Greetings Rolf

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#8 7 years ago

Hi Rolf,

Thanks so much for your help. Everything in your list above seems to be working:

1. When game is toggled on, the U relay pulls and stays pulled until the game goes through the start cycle.
2. Once the first ball is kicked out, both the H and R relays are pulling.
3. When I try the blocked switch test, my results are AAA and CCC.

The add-coin-unit coil always fires a split second before the U relay lets go. It almost seems like a timing issue, which makes me think it may be a motor switch issue.

Thanks!

#9 7 years ago

Hi Hammond2
great - the "sneaked-in stripe of paper" test showed: post-7, JPG on the bottom: We do NOT have a fault on "green wiring".

So when You start a new game WITHOUT the stripe of paper: The "green wiring is the same (paper or not paper) - the green wiring is good --- IF (if) You start a new game and the U-Relay does faulty pull and pull: The fault (maybe one of the faults) must be in the "red wiring" - maybe the "Switch on U-Relay" (can You guarantee ? "Switch is open when the relay is not pulling" ?) - maybe the "Switch on AX-Relay***" - maybe the "Score-Motor-Switch-1B***".

Check the switch in question "Switch on AX-Relay***" - in Your schematics (also shown in post-4) You see "one wire on this switch has color-GR-WH Green-White" - to find the color of the other wire on that switch: Go in Your schematics right - a bit up then right - down, right, down - do You see "color RED-WHITE" mentioned on schematics-I-22 (?) - look for this switch with these wire-colors - the Switch on AX-Relay - have the pin toggled-off and investigate - question: Does this switch truely close ? DOES IT TRUELY OPEN ? (I hope for "This switch on AX-Relay NEVER opens).

"Switch SCM-1B***" has the SAME wire-colors - it is hard to get at - this switch MUST open when actuated.

We MUST have at the end of the Start-up: R-Relay steady pulling, H-Relay steady pulling, U-Relay NOT pulling. Greetings Rolf

#10 7 years ago

Hi Hammond2
by now we do not really know "DOES the AX-Relay functions correct ?". It is an "un-loved" Interlock-Type of relay. Here http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index.htm then here http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#axrelayvideo "Clay" made an excellent video - it is about ADJUSTING such an AX-Relay. Want to "just look at the video" ?

I also have an Surf Champ - my AX-Relay functions correct --- when it is mounted - or when I hold it in the position "same as beeing mounted". It does NOT functions correct when I take it out and turn it 90 degrees and lay it on the bottom panel. I do NOT work on my AX-Relay as its functions correct when mounted. I very much dislike "working on such AX-Relays" - I very much dislike "working on Score-Motor-Switches". Thats the reason I first look all other places hoping "fault is on other place" --- when I am 100% sure: Fault IS on AX-Relay / Score-Motor-Switch --- well, I then work on them. Greetings Rolf

#11 7 years ago

Thanks for the ideas.

The AX relay appears to be functioning perfectly. I am going to re-verify that the 1B switch (a real pain to access) is disengaging correctly. I'm also going to take a closer look at the coin stepper unit itself.

#12 7 years ago

Hi Hammond2
something "general": When troubleshooting we often need the Score-Motor to make a turn (means a turn of 120 degrees, a third of a revolution). We can grab the "turntable" on the Score-Motor and gently turn a bit by hand in the direction "normal turning" - the Score-Motor is nice and makes the turn. (((We also could establish "Jumper-Wire with an mounted doorbell-pushbutton as shown in the JPG (drawn in color red).

You made the test "sneaked-in stripe of paper in switch on U-Relay". Much alike is another such test --- "stripe of paper sneaked-in in Switch on AX-Relay".

IF (if, if) You have found the Switch on AX-Relay (by the color of wires) and IF (if, if) You can guarantee: NO DROP of solder on the side where the wires are soldered-on / NO BENT short stud, solder-lug on switchblade --- means: When You sneak-in a stripe of paper into that switch THEN the switch IS OPEN: You can do a test.

Toggle-off the pin - sneak-in a stripe of paper in between the contact-points on Switch on AX-Relay. Toggle-on - the U-Relay pulls-in and stays pulling. You then start a game - the Motor MUST turn (otherwise YOU must make the motor do a turn) --- EEE: U-Relay stays pulling --- or --- FFF: U-Relay quits pulling.

When You have "EEE": The Score-Motor-Switch-1B is faulty - it never opens.
When You have "FFF": The Switch on AX-Relay is "no good" means when the AX-Relay does actuate (does it ever actuate ?) - when it does actuate: The switch does NOT truely open. Greetings Rolf

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#13 7 years ago

Thanks for your help. I fixed the problem, but I'm still not clear on what was wrong! I adjusted the B1 switch, but that did not help. While adjusting it again, I broke the solder between the 1B inner switch and the 1C inner switch, rendering the game inoperable. Once I repaired the link between the two inner switches, the game worked, and the one-player problem was solved. Rolf, does this make any sense?

#14 7 years ago

Working on the scoring motor was intimidating. Usually, I just clean up the player step unit on a machine, and everything is fixed!

#15 7 years ago

Hi Hammond2
great - You could fix the fault. Yes, working on Score-Motor-Switches / AX-Interlock-Type-Relay-Switches is a drag ...

IF (if, if) SCM-1B was faulty always closed: The U-Relay does not let go. You did some adjustment - You had a second problem (You immediately could fix) - we do not KNOW --- we can guess and argue - lets be thankful "You could fix the fault".

Look at the JPG - a schematics is an abstract - drawn beautyful --- the reality in the pin is other. Yes of course: When we see a wire running from A to B (no switch in the connecting wire) - we may see a looooong connecting wire in the schematics: THEN there is a connection in the pin from A to B - but maybe just a short Jumper (see bottom of the JPG).

I like my Surf Champ - still: Far Out is my Number-1 pin. I am used to make some 8 to 15 bonus each ball on Far Out. I was frustrated about "most of the balls on Surf Champ end with 1 to 6 Bonus". So I made a little hack - I made the Surf Champ act like Far Out - See here: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=823&picno=52842 a "LIT Inlane" rewards a bonus.
To keep it simple I made the Inlanes on my Surf Champ "to reward me one bonus": EVERY time the Ball rolls through an Inline ...

If Your problem comes back: Write --- greetings Rolf

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