(Topic ID: 230915)

Surf Champ , Slow , playfield restoration

By phototamer

8 months ago

Topic Stats

  • 144 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 days ago by phototamer
  • Topic is favorited by 19 Pinsiders


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There are 144 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 8 months ago

Here where I live , Cyprus , Getting an EM pinball in good shape is close to impossible. When I took a look , not a very close one , at this Gottlieb Surf Champ , I figured that I would just remove the Mylar , make some local touch ups and finish with an auto clear coat.

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#2 8 months ago

Some " restoration " has been done on the left hand side of the playfield !!. I knew that this was going to be my major problem. My intention was to remove the green paint with , either ME and alcohol , or , if that would not work with some careful use of some paint remover. White areas under the plastics would have to be taken care also.

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#3 8 months ago

Have to admit ... the guy that TOUCHED up the playfield was an artist !

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#4 8 months ago

Indeed, he was a true and dedicated artist. I hope you will turn that machine into a beautiful pinball. It has a lot of potential.


#5 8 months ago

Removing the Mylar was a nightmare. Heat seemed to be working better than freezing , but paint lifting was really bad. Not only this but almost all inserts came up with the Mylar. I do not like to mess with the inserts but to be on the safe side I removed every single one and glued it back flash with the playfield with some epoxy from underneath. After my first restoration of a Fast draw ( https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fast-draw-playfield-restoration-first-ever-attempt- ) I am feel more competent in proceeding with this ! A big thanks again to all that share their knowledge , and especially to VID . His playfield restoration @Bible@ was a huge help for me.

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#6 8 months ago

Things are getting better and better

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#7 8 months ago

First of all I have to remove that ugly splash of green of paint . The only thing that worked was some paint remover.
So removed carefully the previous "touch ups" , cleaned the playfield with ME and alcohol , touched up some keylines and black lines , and applied the first coat of 2PAC .

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#8 8 months ago

Black lines and curves restored with black pencil , pinstripe and french curves and some black opaque Createx paint , ( Big thanks to VID for indicating the use of Createx .. a beautiful paint)
The lines will look perfect once surrounding paint is applied and everything @ties@ together.

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#9 8 months ago

I will be watching your progress, yes who ever did the touch-ups was an artist....

#10 8 months ago

Before proceeding with the first application of paint I scanned the whole playfield. The yellow area in particular will be impossible to do manually. Yellow does not cover well and the letters and numbers would make the job super difficult. So I will airbrush the yellow , and then apply all numbers and letters with decals. knowing where to apply the decals after everything is covered with yellow will be made with an overlay that is to be applied and secured on the playfield before the paint is applied. more of that later.
But first I will start with the light blue. I used a combination of pinstripe , frisket and painters tape to cover the playfield and not only Frisket because Frisket is super hard to find locally and had to be ordered over the net taking more than 3 weeks to get delivered. Painters tape was wrong . if applied to the edge it does not remove cleanly enough.

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#11 8 months ago

If the letters or numbers are big enough I prefer to frisket over them , because matching colors later with decals is not easy.

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#12 8 months ago

Applying a light layer of white to hide dark imperfections and make subsequent light blue application more even .

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#13 8 months ago

Applying light blue. I applied several light coats with heating in between.

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#14 8 months ago

Leaving the paint to dry overnight I slowly removed the frisket and tape. This was taken after I stared working on the dark blue and red.

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#15 8 months ago

More work on dark blue and red areas and also on the white letters with some 5/0 and 3/0 brushes. Also the white ares under the plastics are been painted manually. After all is finished I will apply a second layer of 2PAC, Frisket , and apply the Yellow. The weather is getting cold here and , since I do not have a dedicated spray booth , I will have to wait until spring to apply that second coat. Unless I get lucky and the temperature rises during the next week.
Some minor imperfections with the white small numbers and letters will be sorted out on the final application of blue paint with a 10/0 brush.

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#16 8 months ago
Quoted from Arcane:

Indeed, he was a true and dedicated artist. I hope you will turn that machine into a beautiful pinball. It has a lot of potential.

I will do my best. After restoring my Fast draw I have all the tools in hand

#17 8 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

I will be watching your progress, yes who ever did the touch-ups was an artist....

2 weeks later
#18 8 months ago

Found some time to work on the playfield. Dark blue is finished , red almost finished .

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#19 8 months ago

Bare wood was very dirty and impossible to sand clean so I did my best to cover the wood with some acrylic paint .

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#20 8 months ago

Gottlieb logo was painted by hand. Needs another pass of white to be completed

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#21 8 months ago

After finishing the red and white , I will airbrush all the yellow. I will have to come up with a solution to correctly align all the decals thar are on the yellow area. I plan to do that with a translucent overlay on which I will mark the start and ending of all the decals. As a last resort I can use the scans to measure the position of every decal.
Since I must apply a layer of clear in order to proceed with the yellow , I hope that the weather will allow me to do it.

#22 8 months ago

wow I have a better playfield, cabinet and back glass for 150 bucks....no guts but in Iowa

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#23 8 months ago
Quoted from mrbanjo:

wow I have a better playfield, cabinet and back glass for 150 bucks....no guts but in Iowa
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Beautiful condition ! For 150 bucks I would probably just get the 4 legs here in Cyprus

#24 8 months ago

repairs / touchups are going well

will you give it a nice gloss clearcoat?

#25 8 months ago

This is a really outstanding job.. well done

#26 8 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

repairs / touchups are going well
will you give it a nice gloss clearcoat?

After airbrushing the yellows, I will have to wait for the weather to warm up and then apply a nice clear coat , sand , apply all the decals , clear coat , sand , polish and repopulate.

#27 8 months ago
Quoted from Rdoyle1978:

This is a really outstanding job.. well done

Thanks a lot

#28 7 months ago

Finishing the bare wood restoration with a combination of acrylics and brush.
Magenta/red really brings the color really close to the original.
Left some of the underlying defects so as to look natural

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#29 7 months ago

After sanding the first layer of clear I was hasty to start painting . Instead I should have addressed all the small recesses with a sandpaper pad before proceeding.
A scratch pen makes it easy to roughen up small areas without damaging adjacent painted areas , making sure that clear will stay put.

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2 weeks later
#30 7 months ago

I am waiting for the weather to get warmer so as to lock all touch ups with clear coat .
After that , all the yellow areas will be airbrushed. All the black lettering will have to be put back as water slide decals. In order to register every position of the letters on the yellow area I will mark the position of every word before airbrushing so as to be able to place the decals in exactly the same position as the original lettering.
A small hole on the start and end of words on the transparent paper will help me mark with a pencil the start and end and correct orientation of the words on the playfield .
I think is the only way to make sure everything is placed in the correct position.
The paper is secured on the frame holding the playfield. The playfield is locked in the frame so no movement is possible.
The red numbers will be covered with frisket.

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1 month later
#31 5 months ago

Waiting to see your next installment.

#32 5 months ago

Impressive work. Following.

3 weeks later
#33 4 months ago

wow! would you be interested in restoring another?

2 weeks later
#34 4 months ago
Quoted from ahollan8:

wow! would you be interested in restoring another?

I will have to finish this one first
The weather is starting to get warm here so I expect to get another coat of clear really soon.

3 weeks later
#35 3 months ago

Weather got warmer so I managed to do another clear coat , to seal everything that had been done so far.

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#36 3 months ago

Forgot to protect the star rollovers ,but after checking for clearance everything seems to work ok. I will make sure that I cover the gap with reversed plastic stars for the next clear coat.

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#37 3 months ago

Mean while cleaning the side wooden bars was mandatory. I will use shellac later to bring the color close to the original.

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#38 3 months ago

Using the scans from a "magic wand" ( not the best tool to use but ..) I created all the decals for the letters and numbers in the yellow areas in Photoshop.
Some of the lettering was created by finding what font was used for the letters by uploading the scans to whatTheFont site.
That made recreating all the numbers from 1000 to 10,000 really easy ! The keyline circles were created with the Ellipse tool.
Checked everything for fit , digitally by superimposing the created decals with the scans from the playfield.
Then by printing them on regular paper I checked them for fit on the actual pinball.

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#39 3 months ago

Everything seems to be ok ...

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#40 3 months ago

The next step is to wet sand the table with 400 grit sandpaper , recheck the placing of the transparent paper I used to mark the position of all the letters and numbers that are to be covered with yellow createx paint. Use frisket to cover everything except the yellow area. use the airbrush to apply the paint. do another clear coat. wet sand again , apply the decals , do a final clear coat , and progressively sand the table to a smooth 2500 grit finish.

#41 3 months ago

Awesome work, the play field is looking great

#42 3 months ago

This is one of my favorite EM game. It's looking super, your going an excellent job. I believe first game to have 3x Bonus Value.

#43 3 months ago
Quoted from swinks:

Awesome work, the play field is looking great

Will try my best to get it in original new condition

#44 3 months ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

This is one of my favorite EM game. It's looking super, your going an excellent job. I believe first game to have 3x Bonus Value.

I love EM games . Looking and playing one of them is traveling back in time !

#45 3 months ago

Just saw this and I am getting in. You are doing great! A++++

2 weeks later
#46 83 days ago

I made sure the playfield will stay put by using some angle irons.
The overlays are fixed to the case that holds the playfield and I had to make sure that everything stays aligned.

Now I must frisket carefully the yellow area and airbrush a beautiful yellow color.
Then all is left to do is apply the third coat of clear , wet sand, apply the decals correctly , position wise , with the help of the overlay and apply the final fourth coat of clear.
Getting there...

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3 weeks later
#47 62 days ago

Found some time to use frisket for the yellow area .

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#48 62 days ago

I also covered the red lettering , because I was not sure if I would get the red color right with the decals. I can always touch them up with a 10/0 brush .

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#49 62 days ago

I checked and rechecked 5 times . Everything is covered except the yellow area.
That will be all for tonight . I did spend 8 hours in total for the yellow area ready to be airbrushed.

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#50 61 days ago

Great work. Thanks

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There are 144 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.

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