Yes, solder that wire back on. Knocker circuit should be easy enough to figure out. Do you have the radio plugs set up for specials?

You could replace it if it looks shot. Around 18 gauge is good.

There should be something like this in your backbox, telling you what scores the plugs are for.

backbox (resized).jpg

Make the decision whether to replace it based on how it compares to the other similar wires on the stepper unit. As long as it's big enough, the wire gauge is somewhat less important than its flexibility because the disc followers move in and out with the rivets. I've never had to replace one of those but if you do replace it, get some wire made of many fine strands. Maybe even use a piece of solder wick.

What a great idea!

Check Jones plugs. Do you have a schematic you can post?

Diagnose this circuit with an Alligator clip jumper wire.

Pinball (resized).png

No problem. If a phone call would help, PM me your contact information. If you'd rather keep this conversation online, rolf_martin_062 and fredsmythson will be a better fit for you.

Hi jradams76
I like the ending of Your post-1: "... game ejects a ball ...". (I may be wrong - but) I believe the problem is just the switch on the Q-Game-Over-Relay --- see HowardR 's JPG in post-12, on the right, near the number 14 - switch (on Q-Relay) has wire-color-red-mingled-with-white - has wire-red-yellow.
The Q-Relay MUST "quit pulling" when You start a new game - so this switch is closed (closed when relay is not pulling - we want the relay non-pulling). May use very fine sandpaper to clean the contact-points --- are the wires soldered-on*** ? . If "No luck": I then would like to troubleshoot using Jumper-Wires --- do You have at least two ? --- well, we can use just simple wires - wind around the bare metal of the Jumper-Wire-End - wind around an solder-lug in the pin --- but Jumper-Wires with gator-clips are recommended.

soldered-on***: Wires in the pin connect from "AA" to "BB" --- well a wire can break-off at "AA (here the Switch on Q-Relay)" --- but this connecting wire could have broken-off at "BB" --- we must have this fact in mind when we investigate on "AA (here switch on Q-Relay)". Greetings Rolf

Hi jradams76
(I may be wrong - but) I believe the problem is just the switch on the Q-Game-Over-Relay or the wire-color-RED+WH leading from the switch - (long wire) - through a Jones-Plug - leading to many switches on the underneathside of the playfield --- means no connection.
Wire-color-RED+WH is the POWER-side-connection of the 24VAC-Circuitry in the pin --- a lot of switches --- to relays current is feeded POWER to coils.
My idea is "when we force connection up to the playfield": You can play. I do have an Surf Champ (it is fully running) - I made the "set permanent Jumper" I ask You to do on Your pin. My Surf Champ nicely runs WITH the permanent jumper (O.K. it is not broken down) - my Surf Champ does not act strange with the set permanent Jumper. Please toggle-off Your pin and unplug the main power cord (Safety Reasons).

See the JPG - I took snippets from two ipdb-pictures: http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2459&picno=46683 and http://www.ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2459&picno=46684 . See in my JPG the "lemon green curved line" --- the set permanent Jumper. See on the playfield in Your pin --- a naked wire runs from Rollover-Switch (middle) to the Rollover-Switches to the left - also to the right. THIS BARE wire also is wire-color-RED+WH --- easy to clip-on the end of a Jumper-Wire (You have Your pin toggled off) at this bare wire. Then have the Jumper hang loose - clip-on the other end at the Fuse-Holder 24VAC AS SHOWN in the JPG.

Keep Your hands off --- You have set the permanent jumper - now toggle-on - nothing spectacular should happen --- then press the Replay Buton / start a game (and keep hands off the pin - just watch) - the pin should do a simple start / reset. AFTER the pin has resetted and kicked-out the ball - NOW, YOU: Try the flipper-bats pushing them flipper-buttons - can You play ? Greetings Rolf

0Surf-Champ-Work-28 (resized).jpg

switch on the credit unit. If the credit unit is gummed up and not advancing (sometimes disabled to put on free play) then no knock

When your replay unit reaches 0, there's a pin that sticks out of the side of the replay unit's ratchet wheel, that changes the state of 1 or 2 switches. Adjust those switch(es) so the unit thinks it never reaches 0. Your replay unit is more like the Bally and Williams section of this website than the Gottlieb section.
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index3.htm#free