Steve, when you start troubleshooting it, if you get stuck and need help, let me know and I'll drop in for a visit. I can fix those EM's easily, it's what I was brought up on. I also have a lot of extra EM parts over here.
Steve
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Steve, when you start troubleshooting it, if you get stuck and need help, let me know and I'll drop in for a visit. I can fix those EM's easily, it's what I was brought up on. I also have a lot of extra EM parts over here.
Steve
I was looking at the bracket that Steve posted with the blue arrow pointing to it (post 33), from where I'm sitting it looks like one from a Williams (they are flat), not a Gottlieb which have a bend in them to make them stronger (post 34, middle pic from pinhead52).
Steve
The nails holding the rails on are a twist type, they are almost like a screw and very difficult to remove. It can be done but you have to take your time and be able to grab the head of the nail, pull and rotate your wrist as you remove it.
Steve
Quoted from practicalsteve:One question about cleaning siderails. Do you just pry them off? Sems like s lot of potential for damage.
It looks normal to me, I was talking about the part that has the blue arrow pointing at it. I have a lot of those here, you can pick out what you want to use.
Steve
Quoted from practicalsteve:Wait, so is my U Bracket supposed to be bent where I circled in post 33.
LOL, yup, it doesn't really take long to make an EM work if it's complete.
Steve
Quoted from practicalsteve:Thanks so much Steve! I have heard legend that with jumpers and a few feet of wire you can fix any EM under five minutes! You are a good guy and I will let you know if I need any assistance in person or parts.
Very local, less than an hour and the town I grew up in!
I wouldn't bother removing the rails unless you plan to repaint the cabinet. They will polish up real nice in place, you just have to be careful.
Steve
Quoted from practicalsteve:Yikes! How would you clean them then? I just got a canister of barkeepers friend which did great on the legs. Should I just tape off where they meet the cabinet?
I've used a large punch to break them loose, but why bother, I have a lot of that stuff that isn't burned up looking.
Steve
Quoted from practicalsteve:Then I will put more effort into getting that stuff out of the melted coil, haven't really tried yet. Finally borrowed a dolly and got the game all in the same room today.
I prefer the A-1496 (2.95 ohms) in EM's because of them not being designed "high octane". A-4893 is 2.1 ohms and more likely to beat up any playfield art that isn't protected. It's a matter of choice, both are listed as being used for pop bumpers. I think as far as play goes, the A-1496 won't be noticed as being a little weaker.
Steve
LOL, just come by this weekend and get what you need, I have a lot of that stuff sitting here in boxes, probably have the coils too.
Steve
Glad to help the cause, I had fun too. Don't lose that gold ball. Drop in any time (but call first to be sure I'm home).
Steve
I've also seen the wood area scooped around the bulb and shaped for a perfect fit if it should be a 455. I can't remember if Gottlieb did this though.
Steve
If you're stuck, PM me your address and I'll come over and help you knock this game out. I have some free time tonight. I can give you a course on GTB EM's and fixing overlooked common issues with decagon units.
Steve
It's not uncommon for Gottlieb to stack a switch on top of the AX insulator arm, it's just another way to open or close the switch contacts.
Steve
Quoted from practicalsteve:I have little experience with EMs but are those switch leafs supposed to be outside the slots like that? Is that normal?
Before doing any troubleshooting, I'd be looking at all the stepper units to be sure they aren't gummed up. They must all move freely, if not, all kinds of issues will show up. Usually, cleaning the stepper units will take care of some of the more obvious reset and step up issues too.
Steve
If you want the best, I agree, but 3 in 1 will do a good job of breaking down the gunk so the parts can be cleaned up (and it's easier to find).
Steve
Quoted from MikeO:I recommend Tri Flow Teflon lubricant in the 2 oz. squeeze bottle over 3 in 1 oil. You will find it in the squeeze bottle in bicycle shops. You may have to call around to find one that stocks it. Tri Flow is the quality lubricant of this millennium over 3 in 1 and WD40.
Forgot to mention, put a rag under the stepper unit you're working on in case you drip some oil when breaking the parts loose. That way, it won't soak in and stain the plywood.
Steve
LOL, yup, I'll be there when/if needed as a guide.
Steve
Quoted from ccotenj:plus he has steve relatively close by if he really gets stuck...
Not a problem Steve, it's easy to fix. I'm feeling a lot better now so anytime you want me to drop by for some help/guidance, give me a call.
Steve
Steve has a 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time. If the game acts odd at reset, flip the contact fingers 180 degrees and it should be fine.
Steve
Nevermind, I was thinking about a different type of stepper.
Steve .... I have spares of those wave washers too. Snag one from me and if/when the old one turns up, save it as stock. I'm not a big fan of using 600 grit on etched boards, the copper traces are thin enough as it is. I think a scotch brite pad will do the job without sanding away much material. The idea is to polish it clean, not sand it.
Steve
No problem, glad to help if possible. I used to have about 20 of them floating around on the floor of my game room. I've been amazed where some of those C clips for the decagon units ended up as well, they can go a very long distance. Heck, I even found one inside the light globe on my ceiling fan. I still scratch my head on that one since it's supposed to be sealed. I can probably throw C clips at that fan for the rest of my life and never make one fall inside again.
Steve
Quoted from practicalsteve:Thanks for the offer of the spare spring washers, good for now, but something to consider ordering next time at PBR
Looks like it is a coin unit, yep, the switch is supposed to be like that. IIRC, the switch opens after the 4th coin so no more coins will be taken.
Steve
That's a bummer Steve, it played great while I was there. Games have a tendency to work good while I'm around and misbehave after I leave. It sounds like a drop target switch or a playfield score switch needs to be looked at. The new playfield rubber may have shifted a little and closed down a switch, that happens once in a while. Now that I think about it, I remember you bumping the game really hard and hearing some points score but it didn't keep going or do it during game play. I guess I should have looked for another issue but I didn't want to hog up all your troubleshooting fun.
Steve
Just thought of another thing to look for. Make sure we put all the relay retaining clips back in place correctly on the relays we looked at. It could be that a relay shifted when the game was scooted back into it's parking space.
Steve
More or less.
Steve
Quoted from practicalsteve:was I more or less correct with my very basic explanation above on how to diagnose with jumper wires?
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