Surf Champ
Gottlieb, 1976Hi everyone,
I have a coil in one of my pop bumpers that locks on during startup. I replaced the coil after I smoked it when it locked on during the last game I was playing. I installed the new coil and sleeve, cleaned the switch contacts at the switch near the coil and at the "B" Relay. Operating the relay by hand, looks like it is properly aligned. But as soon as the start button is pressed and the score motor stops spinning, the coil locks on. Any suggestions?
So, only one of the pop bumper solenoids is locking on?
Does the B relay lock on at the same time?
It's been a couple years since I sold my Surf Champ, but IIRC, doesn't normal activation of the B relay energize both L & R pop bumper solenoids?
The circuit has two switches under each pop bumper (the spoon switch nearest the underside of the PF and the end of stroke (EOS) switch located closer to the coil). Closure of either pop bumper spoon switch should energize the B relay to close and lock in by it's own NO switch and an NC EOS switch (on the pop bumper). The B relay should have 4 NO switches. One of those NO switches with a blue/orange wire is designed to close to energize the R pop bumper solenoid. A different NO switch with an orange/blue wire will close to energize the L pop bumper solenoid. The opening of both EOS switches should cut power to the B relay and also to the pop bumper solenoids.
Have you inspected the tab ends of the switches (where the wires solder on) of the B relay to make sure they aren't shorting together and creating a real time path to energize the pop bumper solenoid? I don't recall, but could there be a blade stiffener that is shorting one of the B relay switches? See the schematic for the 2 horizontal circuit lines just to the L of the #2 on the R-side scale. Guessing one of those 2 switches on the B relay is shorted?
Lee
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:So, only one of the pop bumper solenoids is locking on?
Does the B relay lock on at the same time?
It's been a couple years since I sold my Surf Champ, but IIRC, doesn't normal activation of the B relay energize both L & R pop bumper solenoids?
The circuit has two switches under each pop bumper (the spoon switch nearest the underside of the PF and the end of stroke (EOS) switch located closer to the coil). Closure of either pop bumper spoon switch should energize the B relay to close and lock in by it's own NO switch and an NC EOS switch (on the pop bumper). The B relay should have 4 NO switches. One of those NO switches with a blue/orange wire is designed to close to energize the R pop bumper solenoid. A different NO switch with an orange/blue wire will close to energize the L pop bumper solenoid. The opening of both EOS switches should cut power to the B relay and also to the pop bumper solenoids.
Have you inspected the tab ends of the switches (where the wires solder on) of the B relay to make sure they aren't shorting together and creating a real time path to energize the pop bumper solenoid? I don't recall, but could there be a blade stiffener that is shorting one of the B relay switches? See the schematic for the 2 horizontal circuit lines just to the L of the #2 on the R-side scale. Guessing one of those 2 switches on the B relay is shorted?
Lee
Lee, When I activate either pop, the solenoid locks on. I can manually then activate the B relay to release it. I cleaned the B relay switches and regapped. What else should I do/check? Thanks for the help and sorry for the delay getting back to you.
Scott
Re post 2 have you checked this & confirmed that a switch is not sticking when you activate the pop? Important to respond to suggestions made so we can move forward with known assumptions.
Some clarification is required.
Post #1 stated that the solenoid of one of the pop bumpers was locking on during (right after?) bootup.
Post #4 states that the solenoid locks on when either pop bumper is activated.
Has the issue changed due to some of the repair attempts?
What have you done so far?
Lee
So I adjusted the 2 switches under the pops and cleaned them both. I also cleaned and adjusted the B relay switches. I did notice that it didn’t seem to matter which pop was activated, the right most coil would lock in place. Previously, I burned up the left coil. I was looking at the B relay switches and it looks like one of the switch contacts has fallen off. I’m guessing it was loose prior to falling off and maybe that had something to do with it? In the picture, it’s the right-most switch. Thanks again for all the help!
2E054135-FD7F-4871-A351-5D51920D836A (resized).jpegThe orange wire that comes in from the left side of the photo does not look original. Is the tab on that blade touching the double twisted wire, by any chance?
Take us through this one more time.
Does the pop bumper solenoid lock on right at boot-up or does it not lock on until one of the pop bumpers is actuated?
When the pop bumper solenoid is locked on, is the B relay also energized?
Quoted from Runbikeskilee:Take us through this one more time.
Does the pop bumper solenoid lock on right at boot-up or does it not lock on until one of the pop bumpers is actuated?
When the pop bumper solenoid is locked on, is the B relay also energized?
It no longer locks on at startup after adjustment of the switch gaps. It does lock on when either pop is activated. I'm not sure of the relay activating unless I manually activated it, which didn't work on my last attempt due to the faulty switch contact. I plan to replace that and report back. Thanks
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Auburn, AL